bdcvg Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 So compression test (cold) reveals 140,136,131 and 120 psi. Parts on order so far Shortblock 10103AC880 Gasket kit 10105AB0109X Killer B pick-up and tray 2 OCV's 10921AA080 Oil Cooler 21311AA051 Hoping that is the correct oil cooler, can't seem to get confirmation from Subaru. STI oil pump 15010AA360 I have a spankin new VF52 I am working on a Grimmspeed TMIC Now I am trying to figure out what clutch to get. I can't imagine I will have more than 300 hp so I don't need anything exotic. I am open to suggestions and am reading as much as I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 Spec 2+ and a SMFW. if you have a 05-06 GT. I have a Spec LWFW which has a replaceable friction surface, the new plate is $80.00 and is easy to replace. It's easy to get 90,000+ miles on the Spec 2+. You'll need a Tune for the vf52. Here's from Mr tris', sticky above. Oil Cooler 21311AA051 214.61 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) OK looks like I have the correct oil cooler on the way. I have an '08 OBXT as far as clutch goes. The choices are tough to wade through but working on it. I plan on E-tune from Cryo, Dave did the original tune when I upgraded to a Grimmspeed catted DP. Edited August 2, 2022 by bdcvg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 In reading engine removal off the Subaru manual it has evacuating the A/C. Is there some way to un-bolt the compressor and put it out of the way instead of a total evac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 Yes, just unbolt it the AC and PS pump and lay them to the side. I also remove the screw type hose clamp from the fuel lines on the left shock tower, I hate those QD things. You may be able to see photos in the "click here"link in my sig. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 I just found the photo's in my thread, where I updated them Sept 23 2019 and added this photo. You can see the fuel lines on the right side of the picture. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 OK sweet Thanks that helps alot. So for Your clutch You went Spec2 + and an OEM flywheel or did I misread that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 Look into the cylinder 4 cooling mod as well. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 1 hour ago, bdcvg said: OK sweet Thanks that helps alot. So for Your clutch You went Spec2 + and an OEM flywheel or did I misread that? Yes, I use a Spec 2+ now. For the ej257 May 2012, I used a Spec 2, but it began to slip at 50,000 miles. That Spec 2 went in with a 07-09 OEM smfw. At 50,000 miles on that set up, I put the Spec LWFW and 2+ clutch in. You'll need the OEM smfw bolts too if you go that route. My first Spec LWFW uses the Torx50+ bolts. Not sure if the newer Spec LWFW use normal bolts. You can call them and ask, they have great customer service. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 5, 2022 Author Share Posted August 5, 2022 Ok now have Grimmspeed TMIC , AOS and EBCS on the way. Still trying to figure out a clutch and trying to decide on head bolts. Seems like re-using originals is not out of the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 Most of us will tell you the ARP studs are good insurance against HG issues, though these engines are not noted for that, but when you're pushing more PSI...cheap insurance. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 6, 2022 Author Share Posted August 6, 2022 I will look into the studs. Got the Aisin timing kit with water pump the KillerBee pick-up and windage tray and an oil pressure gauge delivered today. I also got info that the shortblock etc will show Sunday FedEx. I ordered the cyl. #4 extra cooling line as well. My Wife just realized I am spending more on a rebuild than the car is worth and just shook Her head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 6, 2022 Share Posted August 6, 2022 Just saying, how is your oil pan ? I found my 18 y/o pan was leaking because it rusted. New pan from Advance Auto parts is like $76.00 on sale this month. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 6, 2022 Author Share Posted August 6, 2022 Oil pan is still black everywhere. I don't think this car ever saw snow/salt until I got it in 2017. Right after I got it and took it to dealer for the airbag swap. When I went to pick it up the car was up in the air with 5 Subaru techs looking at it, I thought "uh oh" They found something I missed. The service manager came over and said "We haven't seen one this old with no rust on the underside before" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 6, 2022 Share Posted August 6, 2022 You, my friend, got lucky. Mine is just the opposite. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 So delivered today, Grimmspeed TMIC , Subaru gasket kit,oil cooler, STI oil pump and some ACC belts. Then the big item, the short block which had obviously been dropped. 3 of the 4 head locating dowels are smashed, there are numerous dents and chips near the head/block mating surfaces and it looks like the crank snout took a hit. Yay Me. The wood support boards that the block was strapped to are in splinters. Contacted Subaru online parts and sent pictures and waiting to hear what will happen. The crank snout has Me worrid about main bearing damage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 9, 2022 Share Posted August 9, 2022 2 hours ago, bdcvg said: So delivered today, Grimmspeed TMIC , Subaru gasket kit,oil cooler, STI oil pump and some ACC belts. Then the big item, the short block which had obviously been dropped. 3 of the 4 head locating dowels are smashed, there are numerous dents and chips near the head/block mating surfaces and it looks like the crank snout took a hit. Yay Me. The wood support boards that the block was strapped to are in splinters. Contacted Subaru online parts and sent pictures and waiting to hear what will happen. The crank snout has Me worrid about main bearing damage. That happened to me. Mike Shaw Subaru immediately ordered another and didn't even flinch; hopefully yours will be the same. I'm surprised you even found a dealership to ship you the block. Many no longer ship because the rate of returns from poor shipping is really high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 Subarupartsonline.com was cheaper shipped than any dealership within 100 miles for pick-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 17, 2022 Author Share Posted August 17, 2022 O.K. started engine removal. Decided to loosen a few hard ones while I can still put car in gear and use brakes. I cannot get the Perrin crank pulley off. 4th gear, standing on brakes, 3 ft long breaker bar and it won't budge. I am stumped. I got 3 of the 4 10 mm hex head cam bolts out. Last on the belt is slipping teeth so I stopped so I don't whack a valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 17, 2022 Author Share Posted August 17, 2022 So I guess the plan is pull the motor. Mount it to the engine stand. Drill 2 holes on a piece of angle iron to bolt to the flywheel end of the crank . Wedge the iron into the engine stand brackets so the crank can't move at all and get after it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 That will work for the crank. I just use a large gorilla pry bar against 2 3/8" racket extension put in the holes of the OEM crank pully. The other option is to use the 'starter bump' technique if its still in the car. It's scary but works great. I've done that a few times. You are right to tackle those cam's right away. Wow, they are tough! Most people who can't get it out with a long pry bar and some way to hold the cam (timing belt trick or the company 23 tool) will drill the bolt head off. That's the easy way. The bolts are cheap from the dealer to buy as replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 PS The pin in my cam came out with my cam gear and the cam gear hole was rounded out so I needed to get a new cam gear. Make sure to inspect them. The cam gear was $200. The new one fit tight, the old one moved back and forth when installed (it should be a good tight pin to set timing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 18, 2022 Author Share Posted August 18, 2022 (edited) I did get all 4 cam gear bolts loose I have a Perrin crank pulley so no holes to work with. Edited August 18, 2022 by bdcvg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted August 19, 2022 Author Share Posted August 19, 2022 OK engine out. Still have to get crank pulley off. Intake, VF-46 and TGV's off. Time to get some minor stuff off and address exhaust manifolds. The heat shield bolts are stewing in PB blaster. Anybody have any thoughts on re-using/replacing heat shields or going without? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 19, 2022 Share Posted August 19, 2022 Remove those heat shields. My wagon has been without most of them for many years. Just don't let the idle for long periods of time. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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