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Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread


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Depending how much money you need to make; you could do something as simple as a test driver for Roush, or a durability driver at FCA's Chelsea proving grounds. There's a lot of other jobs in the industry depending on your experience level that are attainable as well.
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Yea I've never had issues with duralast stuff on various vehicles over the years. And the nice thing is if you do. Just go swap them.

 

Are you sure it's brake pads though? Unless your rotor is hitting the pads because it's not stable I wouldn't think that's the case. I'm assuming you've swapped your wheels around already.

 

 

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I'm leaning toward no. Assembly looks to be working fine. Yeah I've even bought new tires at the beginning of the year. It's coming up due for a rotation. Tried the perrin dampener lockout and all that has done is make the steering wheel extra responsive. The mass of the part didn't help as expected. I belive it may be down to the road surface what I'm feeling. Since it's not always consistent.

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Yea I recall reading a thread and it ended up being a wheel issue. Could also be play in the wheel bearing.

 

There's definitely some sections of road out here that whenever I hit them everything feels and sounds weird and it takes a moment to remember that the car always feels like that in that location.

 

 

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I have new hubs. Just haven't put them on. Wheels have 233K on them but balance ok??? No hurry as I'm not driving much these days. I have next week off so possibly tackle this task as preventative measure.

 

The Toyota is getting used some as well, so between the two my OCI has spread out to several months between as opposed to 6 times a year.

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Yea I still do about 300 miles a week. Work from home isn't an option for lab work.

 

Idk much about wheels honestly. But I do know from reading that the bearings aren't super long lasting. I know my rears were just starting to go bad and it occasionally sounded like my suspension was breaking.

 

 

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Well went up the canyon today to help my buddy get ready for his move. On the way the coolant temp got pretty high. After it cooled, I'm seeing that it's just barely below the low mark so I'll add some in. I'm guessing that's just because it got so hot as I can't find any leaks or anything.

 

In interest of trying to sort this out, I got some gunk engine bay cleaner and gave everything a passable cleaning, actually looks half decent considering I sprayed it with cleaner and then water and nothing else. Also pulled off the bumper and ran water through the radiator and condensor.

 

437209e56a07b8f9748fedea01e8ed09.jpg

 

If it keeps being an issue and I can't find any leaks with the clean bay, I'll try some dei wrap on the headers and then a replacement radiator I suppose. Maybe new caps just for good measure first.

 

There's been a corrosion issue with my battery and I haven't been bothered to clean it. Well I didn't think about it eating the powder coating of my battery tie down.

 

37c3ec9b44e4dd9122b647e97ceb2429.jpg

 

 

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One thing I've found cleans radiator and a/c condenser well is a can of a/c coil foam spray found at your nearest home improvement store.

 

 

I'll look into those if I don't just say eff if and get a koyo. Probably still do it for the ac. I'm going to be towing a 6x12 trailer nearly 2k miles in September and it'll hopefully be cooler but I don't want to take chances.

 

 

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so where did the coolant go? It doesn't go low for no reason!

 

 

I'm thinking that maybe I need new caps. Or possibly I have a very very slight leak at a hose connection somewhere. That's why I cleaned the engine bay so I can see if I get any staining. Cuz you're right, it doesn't disappear for no reason.

 

I hit 222 deg up the canyon today. Well below the boiling point of the system under pressure. So I shouldn't be losing fluid.

 

 

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so where did the coolant go? It doesn't go low for no reason!

 

 

It comes out the expansion tank cap apparently. So new caps are in order. I can't find a cool one in black that's 1.1 bar though. I hate all the yellow and weird colors in the engine bay lol.

4e8f06e5b1bc9885c02661f8c8f2c197.jpg

 

 

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It also apparently comes out the upper radiator hose now too!

26ed619105559e26c729c7e656734454.jpg

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Made a mess of my nice clean engine bay. Went to put the radiator caps on and was greeted with this. Fan was hitting the hose which caused the rupture. Worst part is that I'm not home so hopefully a duct tape repair will hold. Off to the store for distilled water.

 

909a0af71fa8d3942b5dcc50e8c5dc4b.jpg

 

 

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Inspect the end cap seals on the rad, not expecting you to have an issue cause your's looks pretty minty. I had an issue with the crossover backing off pulling threads, took me a while to relent and tear it back down place heli coil the bad threads. No whiff oc coolant at any time?
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Are you sure your upper rad hose is installed correctly? It is directional. There should be a red arrow on one end of it. That red arrow indicates coolant flow direction. So, make sure that arrow is on the engine side.

 

 

Also, when you hit 222F, what was your intake temp?

 

 

 

One of my cars is currently loaded with LOTS of stuff. As you know, I am in Saint George right now. My intake temp in the afternoon are between 110 and 135F or more!! My coolant temp easily climbs close to your number if I hit boost and stay in boost for like 30 sec or something.

Max I ever saw so far was 226F :eek:.

 

 

According to the FSM, when the coolant gauge gets real close to the H area, temp should be like 120C or 248F.

 

 

Last advice about towing: I would drive early morning or during the night, so you know the intake temps are low. Plus, you may not have to use the AC either.

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Inspect the end cap seals on the rad, not expecting you to have an issue cause your's looks pretty minty. I had an issue with the crossover backing off pulling threads, took me a while to relent and tear it back down place heli coil the bad threads. No whiff oc coolant at any time?

 

 

I'm not sure what you mean by radiator end cap seals. The plastic tanks on the radiator itself?

 

Nah this is the first I've actually seen or smelled coolant. Now my car wreaks of coolant lol.

 

 

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Are you sure your upper rad hose is installed correctly? It is directional. There should be a red arrow on one end of it. That red arrow indicates coolant flow direction. So, make sure that arrow is on the engine side.

 

 

Also, when you hit 222F, what was your intake temp?

 

 

 

One of my cars is currently loaded with LOTS of stuff. As you know, I am in Saint George right now. My intake temp in the afternoon are between 110 and 135F or more!! My coolant temp easily climbs close to your number if I hit boost and stay in boost for like 30 sec or something.

Max I ever saw so far was 226F :eek:.

 

 

According to the FSM, when the coolant gauge gets real close to the H area, temp should be like 120C or 248F.

 

 

Last advice about towing: I would drive early morning or during the night, so you know the intake temps are low. Plus, you may not have to use the AC either.

 

 

My intake temps were low 90s. Just a few degrees above ambient. I'm glad you found that in the service manual. I missed it but I've been all over the place lately.

 

I'm pretty sure I got it on correctly. I knew of the arrows while doing the rebuild, but I didn't trim the hose at all. I've read on some aftermarket radiators that causing an issue but it looked OK when I put it on. It's pretty clear where the fan is hitting it so it's likely just hitting some here and there from vibration. It did take like 13k miles to cause a problem.

 

Luckily I've got coolant and got it home. Hopefully one of the 3 dealers nearby has a hose. I'm sure they will. I'll trim this one lol.

 

 

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For the towing, I'm also hoping that by mid September it'll cool down some as well.

 

On another note, what I was actually working on yesterday was this.

 

311f1abe9c4857f1d63f52bc32a86942.jpg

 

Spec b upper control arms with whiteline camber bolts and whiteline bushing inserts into the rear diff. I just did my best to set it to the center and visibly it doesn't look bad. I'll be getting an alignment real soon.

 

The arms were a bit of a pain. Had to use a hammer to get them in place and the old ones out, even with adjusting the height of the suspension with my jack. The passenger side was a real bear, it almost felt like the subframe mount was twisted, or maybe the knuckle.

 

 

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Well me and my makeshift drain pan got things done. Would have worked a lot better if I could have removed the skid plate but I only had a screwdriver from work to handle everything.

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Luckily I had a jug of water to dilute anything spilled.

 

Turns out I had the hose on backwards. Seems impossible now but I've learned a lot since November, thanks to the community here. Plenty of clearance when on the right way.

 

Luckily there's a pretty angled section of the parking lot at work that allowed me to park uphill and burp the system. Here's to hoping my problems are solved for now. If not, I'll find out Saturday in a big way.

 

 

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Well let's see. I didn't get to race on that Saturday due to a variety of things but everything's been seeming OK. It might have lost a little coolant in the overflow but that could have also been done remaining air. I need to clean the engine bay again and see if I can find a different leak.

 

I thought I noticed a weird rattling from under the car when the ac kicks on. After some investigation it happens when the condenser fan turns on, only when the car is hot. It's only really audible outside the car and you can't hear it from the front of the engine bay. Seems to almost be coming from just behind the drivers side of the block but can't figure it out yet.

 

Because of that I decided to check my learning view. Yep, pulling 5.25 degrees of timing in the same area I was getting the knock before. Pretty sure it's false knock but I'll be sure not to put my foot into it. Pretty frustrating as I basically don't have time before moving but I can't move with a sketch car either.

 

 

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On a different note, heading to photo at rally Colorado tomorrow so this week I've vacuumed the car and cleaned the dash, interior of the windows, center console, and door panels. Very nice. Feels much better in there now.

 

Should be fun so long as it doesn't blow up on the way.

 

 

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You cleaned the car before going to a dusty area...let us know how that works out.

 

A buddy and I used to volunteer as course works for rally's, very dusty job.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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