rhino6303 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Less prone to knock is definitely a win in my book. rhino, did you do some kind of before/after test between stock plugs and the colder version with your tuner? Was he able to detect less knock with the latter?No before/after from stock heat range to one step colder. I've done all of my own tuning until recently so no difference there. My main difference in 2309 vs 5245 is by longevity of plugs. 2309 fouled easier than 5245. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Well I finally went through the control arms. It was seriously a nightmare that I wouldn't suggest doing if yours have never been replaced. This got moved up though due to some bad shaking under high speed braking which had hit a point of feeling rather dangerous to be honest. So I thought well what's the worst case. Gave myself two days to do it. It was like 30 or below doing the first side. Pinch bolt snapped. Went and got some really long drill bits so I could get at the knuckle from a proper angle. Then, because get anywhere without a car is hard, we were trying not to dull the bits. Went too far to the don't press too hard side and spent like 4 hours drilling the bolt. Yea dumb I know. Once the bolt was out there was a lot of effort trying to get the ball joint out. Heat, prying gently on the split, hammers, punches, chisels. Tried finding a bull pin per advice on a forum and couldn't find one locally. Finally gave in and ordered a subaru ball joint puller and gave up for three days waiting for it to arrive. Showed up and made short work of it. Don't think it's supposed to look like that. Well from there arm went on without major hassle. Knuckle is held at the pinch with a grade 10.9 replacement bolt with a nut and red locktite on the back to proper torque. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Well after that I debated on paying someone to do it or buying a knuckle. But I thought I have all the tools and experience now. Awfulwaffle let me use his space do I didn't have to lay in snow like last time, should be easy. Nah worse in every way. Pinch bolt snapped at the threads. Got it drilled out much quicker this time though. Went the wrong way on the impact getting the castle nut off which meant the ball joint puller wouldn't hold well enough but the amount of effort it took I'm not sure it would have mattered. In the end awfulwaffle welded the control arm to the ball joint from the underside. We beat the crap out of it for a while, bent a jack handle with prying and all sorts of stuff. He ended up using his foot to keep the jack handle from sliding while his buddy held the mid portion of the jack handle and I hit it all with a 4lb hammer for a few minutes. There had been discussion of removing the knuckle but with no replacement bolts for the strut I was afraid of breaking one of those also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Shake is gone though when braking. Car feels better. Waiting to see if the clunk is gone that happens at low speeds. Another note, my lca bushings were so shot that doing one side only must have changed the caster as it made driving odd and my steering wheel not point straight. Finishing the other side resolved that problem. But I'm thinking another alignment would be good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Did you use some antiseize? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Unfortunately no. I didn't have any either time as these were both kinda spur of the moment fixes. Also with plans to lower the car and reports that the mevotech ball joints are very short lived, I'm hoping it won't seize in the next year or two. Next time might just be new knuckles and hubs though too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 It would be easy to take things apart and coat them with anti-seize now instead of hoping things are ok in the future... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4thGenUTWagon Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I did my control arms on a salt state car with over 200k miles and everything came off really easy with just some penetrating fluid, some heat, and a little patience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 Well finally got to do a few small things. Pulled off the rear kartboy end links and greased them up with some sil Glyde. Squeaking is now gone in the rear. Changed the transmission fluid. It had about 37k on the fluid with quite a bit of towing but drain plug looked alright. Had been having some issues on cold shifts, primarily getting into reverse. Feels good now but it was warm out so we'll see. Went with motul gear 300 but doubt I'll notice much compared to the redline 75w90ns. Also made a massive mess in the parking lot. I forgot how fast the fluid comes out, basically instantly over flowed my oil pan and pretty much none of it went in. Some cat litter and I'll get some sort of oil cleaner to try to pull up the stain. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 I didn't have a tube for filing the trans so I pulled the intercooler. Most everything still looks good, inside the intercooler looks good and some oil in the throttle body hose. Also found some pink stuff by the turbo? Not really sure what it is but can't find any leaks and never used red loctite anywhere. It was on the back of the intercooler and one of the nuts I use at the turbo to intercooler flange. Next couple of things will be replacing the leaking up pipe, finding the front end clunk (think it's my front sway bar), and then putting on the bc coil overs I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Very nice! I, too, changed my trans and diff fluid on Friday. Went with Motul 300 myself. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 What color is your coolant fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 What color is your coolant fluid? Hadn't thought about that but it's the Subaru blue fluid. I got my head way in there and didn't see any leaks coming from the throttle body, any fuel lines, hell I didn't even see oil leaks. When I do my up pipe I'll be replacing the turbo inlet so maybe I'll find something then. Or maybe it sprayed up from the road? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 Very nice! I, too, changed my trans and diff fluid on Friday. Went with Motul 300 myself. It turns out my buddy needs two bottles to do his trans and since he can use the same stuff we ordered a box of six. Only 17$ a bottle. I've got a bottle for the rear diff too when I get to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 Day off so I started pulling things off to replace the up pipe. I forgot what a pain it was to get the turbo off. Had a stuck bolt and took about thirty minutes to get through. Better than the six hours last time. Wonder what the problem was lol. I guess I cross threaded something going back together. Not looking forward to getting it out. Also found more of the pink stuff, best I can tell it looks like it came out the pcv port. Maybe something from assembly? Not looking forward to trying to get the replacement throttle body hose and turbo inlet on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 You removed the turbo to get to the uppipe? I usually drop the exhaust headers instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 To replace it? I don't see how I could replace the up pipe without removing the turbo. I'm gonna have to cut off one of the lower bolts too though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 Yeah. I did it a couple of times. It's tight but it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 So I'm guessing you left the turbo attached to the dp then. I could see that, just that one bolt which I'm guessing you get from underneath with a crows foot. Oh well, I'd already decided to replace the turbo inlet anyway, then noticed the gasket on the throttle body hose was torn. Then decided to clean up some of the hoses that go to the turbo inlet, install sensor for oil pressure gauge. I think that's about all I can do in that area lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 I think I had to remove the downpipe (or at least separate it from the turbo) as well to access some other bolts? Can't remember. It was 5 years ago! I think there is a metal bracket there that was still providing support to the turbo as well. In any case, you're there already. So it does not matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 True, just peaked my curiosity. And since jmp is great and I have absolutely zero shaft play at 40k I'm hoping to not really remove the turbo again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 Last time I swapped out the Invidia up pipe I left the turbo in place, just removed the DP and "unbolted" the turbo from the up pipe. "noticed the gasket on the throttle body hose was torn" do you mean the boot and the ends ? We removed them and toss them in the garbage. Before we get smart and buy the GS tmic... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 Lol yep the end rubber things. I figured putting it back together I didn't want to risk any boost leaks and since I don't need it running right away I could take the time to change it out. I might go gs tmic eventually but I'm not sure I'll upgrade the turbo. As it stands I basically have 3 project cars and the outback will be the first one that's solid once this is done. Need to dump money into the others next. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrenixon32 Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 Hey guys ,I have questions trying to see if I can get some help. First i been have misfire on cylinder 4 since I bought the car,sometimes it will say misfire on all cylinder I change the fuel injectors and coils.but now I when I drive I have no power it drive like it's struggling to get power to the engine. Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 17, 2021 Author Share Posted April 17, 2021 You'll get better help on your own thread most likely. Two things are likely happening, the misfire is causing the engine to pull timing and it's pulled so much that you're not getting power. The other is you likely should have started with spark plugs but since you've done the other stuff try swapping the spark plug in 4 with a different cylinder and see if the misfire moves with it. But like I said, start a thread because you'll get questions about iam, load, mileage, history, turbo etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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