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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Left a bag of really good chips in my car overnight accidentally and they were sitting there empty the next day. Mouse got into the car and ate everything, AND I can smell the chips ever so slightly when the air is on in the car. Not happy about having to deal with this, might be taking apart the dash to get it vacuumed up. The culprit is no longer with us though.
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I'm probably going to flip the shields when it starts getting warmer out. I saw one of the guides on here and doesn't look too hard. Just taking it apart scares me since I don't want the break anything.

 

 

 

So far the cut off doesn't seem to bother any drivers around here. People around here will flash their high beams at you if they don't like it. Even got a few flashes my way when I had the stock headlights with Slyvania ultras installed :confused:

 

 

 

Yea it shouldn't be crazy hard. I've never pulled one apart but I think it's honestly really easy with a heat gun or access to the oven.

 

 

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Finally got to drive up one of the big canyons on the way to ski today. Noticed a lot of heat coming out of the hood scoop in traffic at the top.

 

I'm guessing that's pretty normal. Coolant levels were fine and the gauge on the dash looked fine.

 

 

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Quarterly oil change. Since I'm out of the IAG warranty period I went back to a WIX filter, but I still have some Motul from the case that I bought a bit back.

 

And topped off the power steering fluid.

 

Just a bit over 115k miles.

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Where can I said T fitting?

 

Scotty

 

Most any auto parts store, plumbing supply house, Home Depot will have brass fittings.

 

You can also make your own from various pieces of brass fittings and a little teflon pipe tape.

 

You can look around in here they have most everything.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-pipe-fittings

 

1/8NPT T find your barbed nipples.

https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-pipe-fittings

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I installed new carpeting and washed the rest of the trim pieces on my 2006 2.5i.

 

I bought the car in November. The person before me, trashed the interior. Everything heavily grease stained, someone got sick on one seat, stale marijuana (skunky) smell, black mold growing on carpets, etc.

 

Somehow the guy even trashed the seatbelts as well as all moldings and kick plates.

 

Needless to say, it got gutted out and many pieces are new to car. I went to a junk yard on the MA/RI border and got a full leather interior from a 2008 LL Bean, and got the darker wood trim from a 2007 LL Bean, and Frankensteined the dark panels to the ivory interior. Got a Navigation system as well as a MOMO wheel with buttons.

 

Total cost for full interior: $250 !!

 

The connectors on the 2008 cars are ever so slightly different than on 2006, and the a couple airbag wires for the seats are different as well. More converting will be in order tomorrow.

 

Car has coolant leak which will be fixed, and back cat is going to get gutted, as it is plugged.

 

Should be a nice car when done.

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Finally got around to doing fluid change on the rear diff and transmission. Went with the redline stuff as it seems well liked and I've read it's slightly better at very cold starts.

 

Pretty easy except I only had my 2' breaker bar and that was too long to really get any rotations on the rear diff plugs.

 

 

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I went to a junk yard on the MA/RI border and got a full leather interior from a 2008 LL Bean, and got the darker wood trim from a 2007 LL Bean, and Frankensteined the dark panels to the ivory interior. Got a Navigation system as well as a MOMO wheel with buttons.

 

Total cost for full interior: $250 !!

 

Which one did you go to? Good job in fixing the car, hope it serves you well.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Did an oil change, with one of few remaining Toyo Roki AA100 filters and Rotella T6. Reinstalled GS turbo heat shield, it was off for quite some time.

 

Replaced cabin air filter, it was a year old and was quite dirty. Detailed the interior quickly, while the car was in warm garage.

 

Tomorrow will be replacing CV boot on Tribeca, AT fluid and filter change.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Drove back from Milwaukee and think I lost a fuel pump on the way. Car leans out up top out of nowhere, fuel pressure drops to 50psi at peak boost. Thankfully never knocked. FPR is good, wonder if it's just an o-ring in the basket? Was completely fine on the drive in. Time to freeze my nads off pulling fuel pump behind a Walgreens tomorrow.
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I installed new carpeting and washed the rest of the trim pieces on my 2006 2.5i.

 

I bought the car in November. The person before me, trashed the interior. Everything heavily grease stained, someone got sick on one seat, stale marijuana (skunky) smell, black mold growing on carpets, etc.

 

Somehow the guy even trashed the seatbelts as well as all moldings and kick plates.

 

Needless to say, it got gutted out and many pieces are new to car. I went to a junk yard on the MA/RI border and got a full leather interior from a 2008 LL Bean, and got the darker wood trim from a 2007 LL Bean, and Frankensteined the dark panels to the ivory interior. Got a Navigation system as well as a MOMO wheel with buttons.

 

 

 

Total cost for full interior: $250 !!

 

The connectors on the 2008 cars are ever so slightly different than on 2006, and the a couple airbag wires for the seats are different as well. More converting will be in order tomorrow.

 

Car has coolant leak which will be fixed, and back cat is going to get gutted, as it is plugged.

 

Should be a nice car when done.

wood tone trim?!? sexy... gonna have to kep my eyes peeled for such.

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I was afraid of that. I've looked at some pictures and it didn't seem easy. I've got the radio trim already but the rest of it seems more difficult.

 

My door panels aren't exactly flawless either. Too bad there's so few people out here in utah.

 

 

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On today's episode of 'firsthand experiences of things i vaguely recall reading about on the forums', found that o-rings got blown of of the fuel pump discharge, causing my lean condition. O-rings were double stacked. Now quadruple stacked. Wowza.
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I would actually adjust the cobb sts. It may be hitting something and is easy to check. Adjust the handle to the tallest setting and the bottom half to a shorter setting. It'll make shifts crappy but you can test if it's that and then make small adjustments from there. Also be sure the bolt from sts to fork isn't too tight.

 

 

You were right. Adjusted the STS and there was no popping today.

 

On to the next issue, I've got speed sensor codes C0103 (Front Right), C0105 (Rear Right), C0106 (Rear Left). I was able to remove the sensor in the front right before I lost daylight. There are no cuts to the line.

 

I'm dumb when it comes to electrical stuff - what should I be looking for when I use the multimeter? I set it to measure resistance and I get 0 when I put it to the prongs in the sensor. Thanks.

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Bessie II's Thread

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So Pennsylvania has 15 year classic car status...I did just renew the registration back in November. I am highly debating re-registering as a classic. I have another car as daily.

 

Pros: Emissions exempt, one time registration fee that covers the life of car, it'd be cool to rock the classic tag

 

Cons: restricts me to limited use, unsure the insurance effect

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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I'm dumb when it comes to electrical stuff - what should I be looking for when I use the multimeter? I set it to measure resistance and I get 0 when I put it to the prongs in the sensor. Thanks.

 

 

Depends entirely on the sensor and what it's supposed to read. That could be a normal reading (and you may not be able to check whether the sensor is good with a multimeter), or it could be broken... If i get a chance to check the FSM for testing, I'll get back to you.

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I'm looking at the manual now and it says to use an oscilloscope to diagnose. I remember reading elsewhere on the forum that someone replaced one sensor and it cleared the other sensor codes as well. I thought I might start by buying one sensor and trying to isolate the problem that way, but each corner has a different part number. I have done ECU resets already.

My feeling is it's the front passenger sensor (at least) as I let the brakes hang on by that sensor by mistake.

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Edited by Enlight

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Bessie II's Thread

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I'm looking at the manual now and it says to use an oscilloscope to diagnose. I remember reading elsewhere on the forum that someone replaced one sensor and it cleared the other sensor codes as well. I thought I might start by buying one sensor and trying to isolate the problem that way, but each corner has a different part number. I have done ECU resets already.

My feeling is it's the front passenger sensor (at least) as I let the brakes hang on by that sensor by mistake.

 

Ghetto-man's test of that would be to wire up the circuit as described (resistor from pin 1 to ground), and measure the voltage across the resistor as you spin the corresponding hub. Hopefully obvious the sensor should be installed in the hub for this test. If it stays constant, the sensor is broken, if it moves around, then the sensor is likely good. If all four sensors bounce around, but one of them bounces around more or less than the others (say for instance, one sensor bounces from 0.7-0.9V and the rest bounce from 0.7-1.4V), the one that is an outlier is likely broken. You could also wire the meter in series with the resistor and measure current, but if you're not familiar with that measurement, I would avoid it.

 

Have you ever replaced the axles? I've read about aftermarket ones causing issues with the wheel speed sensors occasionally, and sporadically.

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Dropped off the wagon at the shop for them to finish to the STI passenger seat. Just need a bracket(s) fabricated to get the seat frame to attach to the STI manual seat rails and it's done.

 

With the winter tires on the car and the weather supposed to be above 45° for the majority of the week I'm in no rush to drive the car. Figured I'd have them pull both front seat belts so I can ship them out to Safety Restore and have them done with red webbing.

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