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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Unless you can complete in less than half the day, and absofukinlutely guarantee some sort of dinner/desert thing afterwards... 10/10 don't recommend..

 

Scotty

 

Uhm, a risky move indeed...

 

The reality, gentlemen, is that I choose life! I'm good on brownie points but my life expectancy would have easily been halved.

 

Her majesty did graciously allow for jack stands and tire removal though so the hardware could be sprayed. A delicate and careful negotiation on our most special day. :)

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Made some more (minimal) progress on breaking apart the old longblock. Got to my most favorite step of removing the cam sprockets. First one (exhaust on cyl 2/4) came off uneventfully. Wasn't so lucky on the other exhaust sprocket:

 

http://i.imgur.com/gKLuDCwm.jpg

 

Tried to see if I could find a friend with a welder to swing by, but eventually a sledge hammer, some WD40 and a 17mm socket later I was golden:

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/D7tBIiWm.jpg

 

Also really need new timing covers, so I have some more OEM Subaru parts to order now.

 

 

I feel your pain, was dealing with this yesterday but my trouble was on the driver side exhaust sprocket. Broke a 18” 3/8dr breaker bar, a 1/2-3/8 converter and the sprocket started to strip. Finally got it off with an 11/16 bolt extractor hammered on

 

 

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You guys are all switching to TIC f.u. bolts right?

 

 

First I’ve heard of them. I was already planning on replacing at least the one. Are the TIC’s better?

 

Looked em up, I would definitely rather have those assuming that oil flow from the top cam bolts is as good as oem and the strength is equivalent or better I see no reason not to get them. Plus the price is not bad at all

 

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Edited by EmptySpartan89
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First I’ve heard of them. I was already planning on replacing at least the one. Are the TIC’s better?

 

Looked em up, I would definitely rather have those assuming that oil flow from the top cam bolts is as good as oem and the strength is equivalent or better I see no reason not to get them. Plus the price is not bad at all

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

single best upgrade you can do. Until you snap the oem hex ones, you just haven't experienced true misery.

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Typical Spec B fashion.....

 

While removing the oem fuel rails I proceeded to attempt removing one of the Valve duty Solenoid hoses from the rail only to have both plastic nipples on the solenoid break off.

 

I also had to modify the oem injector plugs to clear the IAG rails. One of the injectors o-rings broke in two while pushing the injector unto the rail, and yes I had greased the o-ring and fuel rail. Thankfully I had a spare one. I'm using DW1300cc injectors which AIG does not indicate will work with their rails so no harm no foul.

 

Story is now to be continued...

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Typical Spec B fashion.....

 

While removing the oem fuel rails I proceeded to attempt removing one of the Valve duty Solenoid hoses from the rail only to have both plastic nipples on the solenoid break off.

 

I also had to modify the oem injector plugs to clear the IAG rails. One of the injectors o-rings broke in two while pushing the injector unto the rail, and yes I had greased the o-ring and fuel rail. Thankfully I had a spare one. I'm using DW1300cc injectors which AIG does not indicate will work with their rails so no harm no foul.

 

Story is now to be continued...

 

Looks like the spirit of Mr.Hicksta is alive and well. Although he would have put a hole in something really expensive too.

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You guys are all switching to TIC f.u. bolts right?

 

I learned about these after I ordered a pair of OEM exhaust cam bolts. That said, I'm not really worried about it... the intake bolts fit my 10mm hex socket extremely tight, I have no concern about those stripping. The exhaust ones are a different story. Plus, the two OEM bolts were way cheaper than the set of 4 TIC ones. If I (god forbid) pull the motor apart again, maybe I'll upgrade.

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Been in the middle of tearing the whole engine down, wanted to check the main and rod bearings after my turbo blew a couple weeks ago. Luckily it didn’t grenade. Pulled the pan, zero metal in it. Shook the rods, they’re nice and firm. Just got the driver side head off about 30mins ago looks solid, little carbon build up, but I was planning on cleaning everything anyways. Was wondering if anyone knew of any machine shops that can port and polish the heads in Georgia. I figure while I already have them off why not look into it.

 

 

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Defeated by the clamps on the PCV valve. Was only able to get one of them on with my needle nosed pliers. The salt on the wound is that the old PCV was still working fine. Anyone have clic clamp pliers for sale?

 

 

A screw type hose clamp should work fine in that place, you don't need those PITA OEM clamps there.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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A screw type hose clamp should work fine in that place, you don't need those PITA OEM clamps there.

 

 

This. And it can be tightened with the right length 1/4” drive extension (or combination of extensions) from space between turbo and ABS module. Just make sure you tape the socket to the extension so it doesn’t take off on you.

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I've taped a red cross to my telescoping magnetic pickup tool as it's saved so many little sockets...

 

 

I have one and it brings a smile on rare occasions I have to use it. Another one is a claw-type grabber on a flex spiral extender (really don't know what to call it). Priceless when something small drops under the intake or on the cross member under the engine - can't use magnetic pickup there but this thing works great.

 

 

Here is similar tool at Walmart

 

 

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Claw-Pick-Up-Tool-and-Flex-Lighted-Magnetic-Pickup-Flexible-Grabber-18-Inch/38359967?athcpid=38359967&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVAV&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=77cad2cf-2a4-1722dfcf65d323&athancid=null&athena=true

Edited by SubOperator

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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So.... I have a tuning appointment this coming Monday and I'm already cutting it close with waiting on additional parts to arrive so I can finish the fuel rail installation. Now I'm debating sending the injectors out to get flow tested and cleaned while everything is apart. The vendor quoted a 24 to 48 hr turnaround time.

 

Should I risk it? Three of the injector tips looked clean, one had some browning (Cylinder 4 go figure).

Edited by Gabo
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So.... I have a tuning appointment this coming Monday and I'm already cutting it close with waiting on additional parts to arrive so I can finish the fuel rail installation. Now I'm debating sending the injectors out to get flow tested and cleaned while everything is apart. The vendor quoted a 24 to 48 hr turnaround time.

 

Should I risk it? Three of the injector tips looked cleaned, one had some browning (Cylinder 4 go figure).

Type, brand, size and mileages of injectors?
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Type, brand, size and mileages of injectors?

 

DW1300cc injectors. I had them flow tested and cleaned 15k ago or so, I guess I should note I run E85 95% of the time. The car gets driven at least 5 times a week 30-40 miles each time.

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clean them when you can. talk to your shop about their policy of waiting on your parts

 

Also ask about their cleaning service. They might have a same day turnaround.

DW1300cc injectors. I had them flow tested and cleaned 15k ago or so, I guess I should note I run E85 95% of the time. The car gets driven at least 5 times a week 30-40 miles each time.
I would also have them cleaned, mainly because of the E85 aspect. If you were pump gas all of the time, I'd run them as is since they were cleaned in the last 15k. Edited by rhino6303
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Not technically today, but I washed and waxed it then Plastidipped my roof rails.

 

Adding to the many things I should have found out prior to doing something, how does it hold up exposed to the elements?

After seeing how it holds up, I also plan to do the mirror arms and the front lip.

 

 

 

JlVCREJ.jpg

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I have one and it brings a smile on rare occasions I have to use it. Another one is a claw-type grabber on a flex spiral extender (really don't know what to call it). Priceless when something small drops under the intake or on the cross member under the engine - can't use magnetic pickup there but this thing works great.

 

 

Here is similar tool at Walmart

 

 

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Claw-Pick-Up-Tool-and-Flex-Lighted-Magnetic-Pickup-Flexible-Grabber-18-Inch/38359967?athcpid=38359967&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVAV&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=77cad2cf-2a4-1722dfcf65d323&athancid=null&athena=true

 

 

Those would be called, mechanical fingers.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Installed the 15+ STI steering rack along with the 08STI steering linkage, Cusco brace, and Whiteline steering rack bushings. I need to get an alignment but test drive showed dramatic improvement. Much firmer turning pressure required but far more direct. No complaints except that the location for the steering rack hard lines are in a very inconvenient spot. Shouldn’t have been that hard to get those things off...
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