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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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10 hours ago, KZJonny said:

FWIW: 

https://www.amazon.ca/Mr-Gasket-738G-Water-Outlet/dp/B000CMF20O/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3I6460HL1FAQM&keywords=mr+gasket+738&qid=1696257646&sprefix=mr+gasket+738%2Caps%2C233&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.b06bdbbe-20fd-4ebc-88cf-fa04f1ca0da8

Does a better job than the factory o-ring on the turbo side of the IC, and being silicon and aluminium, it tolerates a lot more repeated removeal and re-install.

That's just the first link I could think of, you can definitely find them cheaper if you take a look around. Worked great on my OE TMIC which was tricky to get to seal. Replaced with GS TMIC, so longer a problem, but still good to know.

I got mine from autozone for like $17. Stocked on the shelf

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3 hours ago, bemani said:

My sunroof ended up looking like this after a road trip, had the whole rail replaced.  Looks like a plastic guide broke.  I don't even open the sunroof anymore.  But I figure better fix it the right way while the parts are still available since I'm keeping the car forever.

 

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Bummer. I had my original sunroof break at autocross, the front tilting lid got jammed in open position on passenger side. Dealer closed it but long story short I drove for years with it closed. Replaced it last year with working unit out of my son's 05OB that we scraped.

When my sunroof broke the dealer told me they do not sell individual parts for sunroof, they only get replaced as an assembly. Interesting what your experience will be. Good luck with repair!

 

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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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12 hours ago, blackobxt said:

I got mine from autozone for like $17. Stocked on the shelf

Dang. You guys south of the border and auto parts being nearly free. I get jealous whenever I watch Gears and Gasoline or whatever and they say how much things cost. It's invariably like 50-60% of the cost up here.

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4 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Dang. You guys south of the border and auto parts being nearly free. I get jealous whenever I watch Gears and Gasoline or whatever and they say how much things cost. It's invariably like 50-60% of the cost up here.

So it has gone up quite a bit since I bought mine

IMG_2081.png

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1 minute ago, blackobxt said:

So it has gone up quite a bit since I bought mine

IMG_2081.png

And that is Freedom dollars as well!!

Okay, now all of of a sudden the $50 Amazon price in Canada is a little less ridiculous.

I want to say I paid maybe $40 for mine last year.... So. Inflation is a bitch.

 

Still, it's small dollars to help eliminate boost leaks.

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1 hour ago, SubOperator said:

Bummer. I had my original sunroof break at autocross, the front tilting lid got jammed in open position on passenger side. Dealer closed it but long story short I drove for years with it closed. Replaced it last year with working unit out of my son's 05OB that we scraped.

When my sunroof broke the dealer told me they do not sell individual parts for sunroof, they only get replaced as an assembly. Interesting what your experience will be. Good luck with repair!

 

Yep, I had to buy the whole assembly, $1200 just because a plastic thing broke.

I wonder how fragile these are, if yours broke from autoX.  Age and driving on dirt road probably did mine in.  I'll have to be more careful where I take the LGT in the future.  This is the car I take to visit National Parks since I can sleep in the back so it sees a lot of unpaved roads.

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27 minutes ago, bemani said:

Yep, I had to buy the whole assembly, $1200 just because a plastic thing broke.

I wonder how fragile these are, if yours broke from autoX.  Age and driving on dirt road probably did mine in.  I'll have to be more careful where I take the LGT in the future.  This is the car I take to visit National Parks since I can sleep in the back so it sees a lot of unpaved roads.

Well, we go do some light offroading quite often and I have not had mine fail like that. At the same time, mine can't close properly. So I never open it :(.

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21 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

And that is Freedom dollars as well!!

Okay, now all of of a sudden the $50 Amazon price in Canada is a little less ridiculous.

I want to say I paid maybe $40 for mine last year.... So. Inflation is a bitch.

 

Still, it's small dollars to help eliminate boost leaks.

Yeah and I’m going to need to buy another one of those soon. Ive decided im going to buy multiples of things that i use like these gaskets, oem ej gasket sets and stuff like that and set up a peg board in the garage with a shelf so I have a stock of things

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On 9/29/2023 at 4:57 PM, snow05gtRI said:

Makes me think of a leak in the intercooler path.  What's your IC setup?  Or a leaky gasket in the UP or exhaust?

I am currently using a GS unit, which came with its own oring/gasket. I did recall hearing that sound prior to using the GS unit. So I thought that would have ruled out a leak. But I did notice some slight oil residue between the IC and turbo.. I only hear it if I get past 19 psi or so (>~3.0 g/rev load).

Would this Mr gasket 738G help and be compatible with a GS unit? I guess I should try it..

PXL_20231001_024530979.MP.jpg

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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4 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I am currently using a GS unit, which came with its own oring/gasket. I did recall hearing that sound prior to using the GS unit. So I thought that would have ruled out a leak. But I did notice some slight oil residue between the IC and turbo.. I only hear it if I get past 19 psi or so (>~3.0 g/rev load).

Would this Mr gasket 738G help and be compatible with a GS unit? I guess I should try it..

The flange is the same shape and the bolts holes will line up, so worth a shot?

I've never got past 16.x psi on my GS TMIC, but no leaks yet. I am 99% sure at 19 psi the sounds I would hear would be gurgling as combustion gas blew open my radiator reservoir. Lol!

I know you have a VF52, so the higher boost is easier to get to, but out of curiosity did you upgrade to head studs when you swapped up turbos?

Edited by KZJonny
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14 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

I know you have a VF52, so the higher boost is easier to get to, but out of curiosity did you upgrade to head studs when you swapped up turbos?

I installed a new EJ257 (type RA) SB in 2020, and yeah I did install ARP head studs. It mostly sees a peak of 17 ish psi but may get up to 19-21 psi depending on how I drive :spin: and ambient temps.

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On 10/2/2023 at 1:10 PM, KZJonny said:

Did you have a rebuildable prop shaft made up? The OE drive shaft on any 4th gen doesn't have replaceable u-joints. You CAN push the old ones out with press, and use a set of u-joints that have the retainer set inside the yoke....

But I also know how much hrspr you've got under your hood... I don't think you are a candidate for that kind of messing around. I did it on my NA Outback and ended up buying a used OE driveshaft becuase I just didn't love how the snap rings seated against the inside of the yoke. (It was never meant to have the caps retained from the inside....)

Pretty sure a 4EAT shaft fits a 6MT car, but that is just something I read somewhere, you'd need to confirm...

There is an old thread here about someone from our neck of the woods, or at least GTA that took his to a shop around Mississauga or something, and they either machined the yokes to accept replacement u-joints, or built him a new one for a decent price. I forget the outcome, but will have a look around for it.

Sorry I should have clarified it is the transmission shifter U-Joint, not the driveshaft u-joint.  To fix the left to right play in my shifter.

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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3 minutes ago, tysparks81 said:

Sorry I should have clarified it is the transmission shifter U-Joint, not the driveshaft u-joint.  To fix the left to right play in my shifter.

Ok man. We get it. 🤪
 

Wonder if that is a replaceable part, or it it’s something you could add shims to, to snug it up?

I’ve got a spare OE short shift kit in a box somewhere, but it’s for a 5 speed, so no help to you, sadly.

Edited by KZJonny
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2 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Ok man. We get it. 🤪

I was a page back, hit submit and it didn't take me to the post so I thought it wasn't posted, and kept hitting submit.  Lol, long day sorry.

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#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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Installed backup camera.  It's outside of the licence plate lights so it's a bit wonky, but better then nothing.

Recieved some more Amazon parts.... SBC thermostat gasket (knockoff of that pricey Mr Gasket one,  prob made in same factory)

And what was supposed to be a plain red anodized e-brake grip.  I might complain and see if they give it to me free, altho it was only $15 shipped. It even came with some anodized shavings inside it.  No idea if it will fit, but I'll see what I can do. 😜

PXL_20231004_023653459.jpg

Edited by pksystems
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3 hours ago, tysparks81 said:

Sorry I should have clarified it is the transmission shifter U-Joint, not the driveshaft u-joint.  To fix the left to right play in my shifter.

I have changed that part before. It was a long time ago. Not sure if that part is the same between 5MT and 6MT though.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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I did that shifter linkage recently enough, but unfortunately I'm still on the 5spd. I can't vouch for 6spd options. I used the TIC solid link to replace the stock rubber one, which had deteriorated to nothing.  

Whatever solution you end up with, a set of punches is going to help you remove the one currently on the car. 

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14 hours ago, Lone_wolf_subie said:

Bought a second set of headlights so that I can start blacking out mine. Unsure whether to do the halo ring mod or not

Just throwing more references out for you, in case you had come across some of my other posts on the topic.  

5A6076DF-2559-4258-BF29-BC68C0B672BD.thumb.jpeg.32ac8add02a66afe7a80eac67a170974.jpeg

On at night.

43381A0C-C5A4-462E-9BA5-F62EF4D13EBC.thumb.jpeg.9a682a0fdca196a647ac3a9e91dac301.jpeg

Off at night. 

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On during the day. 

2 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Received the OEM rubber thingy for the caliper bracket lower pins.

 

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Funny, I need to grab some of the rubber stopper caps for the bleeder valves, and order a new set of bleeders for the fronts. My speed bleeder on the driver side is clogged, and I had no luck cleaning it. 

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11 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Just throwing more references out for you, in case you had come across some of my other posts on the topic.  

5A6076DF-2559-4258-BF29-BC68C0B672BD.thumb.jpeg.32ac8add02a66afe7a80eac67a170974.jpeg

On at night.

43381A0C-C5A4-462E-9BA5-F62EF4D13EBC.thumb.jpeg.9a682a0fdca196a647ac3a9e91dac301.jpeg

Off at night. 

0FA61AA7-73E7-4A5F-B003-53ED4A009EF5.thumb.jpeg.1ce2475ca798a6796107b0ae34773d02.jpeg

On during the day. 

Funny, I need to grab some of the rubber stopper caps for the bleeder valves, and order a new set of bleeders for the fronts. My speed bleeder on the driver side is clogged, and I had no luck cleaning it. 

Thanks bro! I appreciate you looking out for me! Yours look good, just what I want to do except looking at purple halo 

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I did these for a kid at my work. It was my first time doing it and I actually thought it was kind of fun. I also drew inspiration from a conversation I had in the past with @Febreze Mee about his headlights. I’d definitely do it again, much less difficult than I worked it up to in my head.

IMG_2087.png

Edited by blackobxt
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On 10/5/2023 at 9:29 AM, blackobxt said:

I did these for a kid at my work. It was my first time doing it and I actually thought it was kind of fun. I also drew inspiration from a conversation I had in the past with @Febreze Mee about his headlights. I’d definitely do it again, much less difficult than I worked it up to in my head.

IMG_2087.png

Agreed, modding the headlights in reality was much easier than I thought.

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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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