xt2005bonbon Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 I think you should at least go 4 gauge. 8 gauge is a little small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 Here’s a chart that helps with wire gauge selection: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentJ20 Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, xt2005bonbon said: I think you should at least go 4 gauge. 8 gauge is a little small. Thanks for the concern. If I were to run the 4 channel and the sub amp together, that's only 550W RMS. Crutchfield's chart for A/B class amps show 8 gauge is totally acceptable for the <10ft to the distribution block at the watts I'm running. The 10awg run to the sub amp is also short and well within the needs for a 300W amp. It's all OFC, so I'm not worried. Edited August 17, 2023 by SilentJ20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentJ20 Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 41 minutes ago, WRX USA said: Here’s a chart that helps with wire gauge selection: I've read charts like these, but it requires additional steps for car audio (this chart is for marine electronics, beyond just stereo I imagine). The crutchfield chart is already designed with car audio in mind, and with no need to convert watts to amps or any other steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 2 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said: I've read charts like these, but it requires additional steps for car audio (this chart is for marine electronics, beyond just stereo I imagine). The crutchfield chart is already designed with car audio in mind, and with no need to convert watts to amps or any other steps. The only extra step is finding out the current draw of the item that you want to connect, which will be in the manual. I always do a Google search with the model # and “PDF” to find the manual. I couldn’t read the model number of your amp in your pictures, otherwise I would have done that step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 Been a hot minute since I've posted here.. with the LGT now a backup car, it's no longer needed nearly as much. Oil change and rear brakes done this past weekend. Broke 1 bolt in each caliper bracket. Had a co-worker torch and tap them. One thing is certain, shifting your own is still better than a automatic... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 Completed another PA state inspection this morning. Two of the techs complimented the car, which always feels good. Then topped off with s85 (76.8% on the gauge). Tokorrow is a 100mile road trip to my friends camp in NW PA with some fantastic roads on the way. 3 "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentJ20 Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 (edited) 26 minutes ago, WRX USA said: The only extra step is finding out the current draw of the item that you want to connect, which will be in the manual. I always do a Google search with the model # and “PDF” to find the manual. I couldn’t read the model number of your amp in your pictures, otherwise I would have done that step. Yep, I have the manuals for both the amps already (MRP-M350 and MRP-F240). They don't list the current draw, though. Probably why most charts I see use watts instead. You're right though, amperage ratings is just a single conversion from RMS watts. Though there's a factor for amp efficiency that needs to be accounted for. Class A/B is about 50% efficient, and I think Class D are 75% efficient. So, my 300W rms amp would be 300 / 13.8V / 0.50 = 43A. In the 40A category, that puts me within the 3% drop (critical electronics) for up to 10ft of 8awg. Not sure how "critical" an amp is for voltage drop, but it's nice to see the marine wiring chart and the crutchfield amp chart match reasonably well. Thanks for that chart, btw. That will come in handy on my boat, and I should probably see if the sub amp the previous owner installed was done accordingly... Edited August 17, 2023 by SilentJ20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 (edited) If this is the Alpine amp that you have then 40A is the current draw. and 25A on the other one: Edited August 17, 2023 by WRX USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 17, 2023 Share Posted August 17, 2023 For you guys talking about the wiring, maybe you should put that info in this Forum thread, that way it can be found by others. Having that info here will too much trouble to find in the future. https://www.legacygt.com/forum/17-interioraudio/ Maybe one of the MOD's can make it a sticky... 2 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted August 18, 2023 Share Posted August 18, 2023 On 8/17/2023 at 1:25 PM, Code said: Completed another PA state inspection this morning. Two of the techs complimented the car, which always feels good. Then topped off with s85 (76.8% on the gauge). Tokorrow is a 100mile road trip to my friends camp in NW PA with some fantastic roads on the way. I always breathe a sigh of relief when my usual mechanic passes the subie's PA inspection - he has yet to notice the lack of an air pump. Butler county's inspection requirements are pretty funny; they don't test for emissions but you will fail if they notice the OEM emission equipment appears to be removed or modified. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 I'm buttoning the car up for the tune tomorrow but have a feeling this EGT sensor isn't right. Are the threads supposed to slide like in this video (link)? Also, there are two plugs that they can connect to that I've circled in red. The one closer to the manifold has a resistor in it so I will plug it into the one closer to the wheel well. Did the LGT originally come with two EGT probes? 2 muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 11 hours ago, Enlight said: I'm buttoning the car up for the tune tomorrow but have a feeling this EGT sensor isn't right. Are the threads supposed to slide like in this video (link)? Also, there are two plugs that they can connect to that I've circled in red. The one closer to the manifold has a resistor in it so I will plug it into the one closer to the wheel well. Did the LGT originally come with two EGT probes? I can't remember if the egt on the 2005 has threads like that. The egt connector is the one you are holding. The other connector is the PCV "dummy" connector. It has a jumper plug in it to close the curcuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 199,400 miles on my wagon, getting so close… I’m very tempted to completely reseal and run it on the OE motor until it NEEDS to be replaced. It feels strong, sounds great and recent UOA was excellent, but damn it smokes a lot after about 30-45 mins of driving. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 9 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said: 199,400 miles on my wagon, getting so close… I’m very tempted to completely reseal and run it on the OE motor until it NEEDS to be replaced. It feels strong, sounds great and recent UOA was excellent, but damn it smokes a lot after about 30-45 mins of driving. How old is your PCV valve? You still run it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 PCV assembly was replaced around 115k miles. Intake is pretty damn dry, just a thin layer of film forms, but nothing pooling inside the TB hose or inside the tmic. I’d need to pull the motor and do everything, but at that point I have another shortblock and B25 heads on my shelf. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 (edited) That's exactly what I did 7 years ago. About to cross 60k on that version. Looks like I posted in the wrong thread. Has anyone seen the "What did you do to your 4th Gen. Legacy 7 years ago?" thread? Edited August 21, 2023 by seanyb505 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysparks81 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 Finally got around to installing the washer headlight hoses to both headlights as well as a new to me JDM wagon washer fluid reservoir, fixed the stock line coming off of the windshield washer pump as there was a big gash in the line about 30cm from the pump. I didn't know there was a gash in the line, but I remember seeing a lack in washer fluid pressure for a little while now. I more than likely had a pin hole leak that just got bigger over the last year or two, I only really used the sprayer while I was driving and in motion. Had I used it while stopped I might have seen the issue sooner. Only think left is to wire the headlight washer pump either into the windshield washer pump so they spray together when the button is pressed or to wire an additional switch somewhere to spay the headlights. 3 #LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentJ20 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 Put a better hose clamp on the lower end of the Turbo Coolant line to hopefully stop a slow leak. Noticed a cooked coolant smell a couple times and that I was slowly loosing coolant. Fortunately it's an external leak that was easy to locate. Should have replaced it during the short block job, but at least it's easy enough to get to now. Ordered a whole new hose just because it was cheap. Then I'll put better clamps on both ends. New rubber + new & better clamps = good for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 (edited) Need to buy yet another rear wheel bearing. Left rear side is screaming! This time, I'll check what Napa has available instead of buying online. And passenger side CV boot is leaking . Made a mess as usual. This time, boot was not split. Rather clamp became ever so slightly loose enough to make a mess. Kinna disappointed as it is a Raxle ($$$). Driver side did the same thing 6 months ago. Edited August 21, 2023 by xt2005bonbon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentJ20 Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 51 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said: Need to buy yet another rear wheel bearing. Left rear side is screaming! This time, I'll check what Napa has available instead of buying online. And passenger side CV boot is leaking . Made a mess as usual. This time, boot was not split. Rather clamp became ever so slightly loose enough to make a mess. Kinna disappointed as it is a Raxle ($$$). Driver side did the same thing 6 months ago. Are these hard to do? I think my rears are beginning to rumble a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 About 1 to 1.5 hrs job: -rear car on jack stand -remove wheel -loosen 32mm axle nut -remove abs sensor (10mm bolt) -disengage parking brake -remove brake caliper (2x14 mm bolts) -remove rotor -remove wheel bearing (4x14 mm bolts). You will probably have to use a hammer and hit it pretty good to separate it from the knuckle. It is pretty easy really, provided your bolts are not seized. I use antiseize everywhere. So, all my bolts are in good shape. I think this will be my third set of rear wheel bearings. For me, rears are lasting longer than the front. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 The bolts are usually pretty easy going with an impact/breaker bar, it’s removing the hub bearing assembly that can be tricky. You’ll almost certainly want a bearing removal tool on hand and a sledge/impact hammer. 1 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 On 8/15/2023 at 10:12 AM, tehspud said: I gotta see pictures of that wheel/tire fitment 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 6 hours ago, tysparks81 said: Finally got around to installing the washer headlight hoses to both headlights as well as a new to me JDM wagon washer fluid reservoir, fixed the stock line coming off of the windshield washer pump as there was a big gash in the line about 30cm from the pump. I didn't know there was a gash in the line, but I remember seeing a lack in washer fluid pressure for a little while now. I more than likely had a pin hole leak that just got bigger over the last year or two, I only really used the sprayer while I was driving and in motion. Had I used it while stopped I might have seen the issue sooner. Only think left is to wire the headlight washer pump either into the windshield washer pump so they spray together when the button is pressed or to wire an additional switch somewhere to spay the headlights. I’m curious about your solution as mine are still not wired up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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