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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Look at the driveshaft store. Replaceable joints, replaceable carrier, extra joint just aft of carrier. Suburb quality, fast shipping, and excellent cost/value

 

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X2 for that.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Lets see... Past few days of toying with my legacy have been taking off blind spot mirrors the previous owner put on, cleaning windows, quotes on cheap tires, and finding more stone chips... Now to make a shopping list. (photos are non-existent because I have no "beauty" shots of her, plus she's rough...
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Shoot, I think I owe you buckets. Moving my shop right now and completely spaced. I'll dig em out of a tote next time I'm at the new place.

 

Nah, don't worry about it. Thanks though. I need some fairly small ones apparently and I didn't see them in your spreadsheet.

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Lost every gear but 3rd driving in to work, which was suddenly accessible with the shifter in the neutral position. Turns out the plate that clamps the big end shift linkage bushing to the actuator rod on the trans opted for early retirement - completely vanished but the retaining nut was still torqued in place. Upgraded to a random conical washer I found on the floor.

 

The trash pile giveth.

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Not sure how but the steering grommet popped out a few weeks ago. (Maybe when I put in the perrin lockdown?) Tried to get it to go back in, not happening...

Took out the whole steering column and the bushing popped right in, greased and slid the shaft and plastic bushing in place. Steering is VERY tight now.

Bonus: Don't have to feel hot air coming in by my feet.

That's part of the reason I figured out the hood scoop was pressurized underhood.(tons of hot air was coming in through the hole. After sealing the scoop, only a slight breeze comes in, but it's hot air lol)

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Threw in whiteline UCA inners to go with my adjustable UCA outers. Took my LGT bump stops off the old car, and put them on the new car.

 

I tried removing the Perrin steering lockdown from the old car, but had no luck! Has anyone tried this before? Any recommendations?

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Well I came to a deal with a friend last night to sell my 05 GT, she will be missed... almost 8 years and tons of km's I can't complain.

He will be getting the car, and tons of parts, a whole oem front end. 2 oem radio's. Hell even an OEM Downpipe!

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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Fixed my creaky sun visor.

 

Something like 5-6 years ago I replaced it because it broke, and I think I paid like $90 or $100 for a new one from subaru. It has been getting really creaky, and it feels like it doesn't move as easily. So I removed it from the car, and used a pick to pull back the fabric where the arm goes into the visor body. Really can't see anything when you do that, but I decided to spray a couple quick shots of wd-40 silicone spray down there. To my surprise, it actually worked. Silky smooth and no creaks when I flip the visor up and down. Question is how long will it last, we'll see.

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Question is how long will it last, we'll see.

Because you used WD-40, the creak will come back. But now you know how where to fix it. Next time, use a lubricant instead. WD-40 is a solvent not a lubricant. Tri-Flow is an amazing teflon based lubricant. Primarily a bike chain lube, but it is great for lubricating a lot of things that have tight tolerances.

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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For father's day I cleaned out the threads on my replacement rear subframe, and wiped my headlights down with isopropyl alcohol. I had cleared them a few weeks ago using meguiars 105 and 205, but there was a slight haze that I figured was from the 205 fillers. Now I just need to apply the clear coat I have for them, assuming it's still good after buying it 4 years ago. Edited by seanyb505
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Because you used WD-40, the creak will come back. But now you know how where to fix it. Next time, use a lubricant instead. WD-40 is a solvent not a lubricant. Tri-Flow is an amazing teflon based lubricant. Primarily a bike chain lube, but it is great for lubricating a lot of things that have tight tolerances.

 

It was their silicone lubricant, so hopefully it lasts more than a few weeks

https://www.wd40.com/products/silicone-lubricant/

wd40.jpg.35dc4570c9fb63a838a3f7aa2ba70dea.jpg

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On Father's day I replaced cabin air filer with new TYC 80005P. And finally installed the Perrin 6MT reverse lockout knob on Cobb adjustable STS.

 

 

That reverse lockout knob went on tight. I lubed the plastic sleeve on the inside and outside but still had to really work the knob down slowly to have it seated. The lube included with it feels too thick to me, may be that's one of the reasons.

 

 

 

Took it to a test drive and the shifter is now dead quiet. So nice. Hope I don't have to disassemble it later to make it move easier.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Drove it few more times. Happy with Perrin reverse lockout knob - no more annoying rattles from the shifter. Nice quiet car, for now.

 

 

Looked at the pile of parts in the basement. Need to decide which projects I will still do, and which ones I will not at this point. Some parts will be put up for sale. Duh.

Edited by SubOperator
typos?

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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I just got an actual reasonable quote for a respray on the car. I'm pretty happy and am eager for it. I do plan on purchasing new oem bumpers front and rear as well. I'd love to swith to a JDM front bumper but I can never find any for a reasonable price that don't need extensive paint/repair work.
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I just got an actual reasonable quote for a respray on the car. I'm pretty happy and am eager for it. I do plan on purchasing new oem bumpers front and rear as well. I'd love to swith to a JDM front bumper but I can never find any for a reasonable price that don't need extensive paint/repair work.
Talk to your painter. They might prefer to color change used bumpers if you can find a decent set. New plastic is difficult to get paint to stick to

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

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Made it past 160k kms this weekend.

 

Not bad for a 17yo car!

 

Yeah...tell me about it ;) Is yours one owner also ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I just got an actual reasonable quote for a respray on the car. I'm pretty happy and am eager for it. I do plan on purchasing new oem bumpers front and rear as well. I'd love to swith to a JDM front bumper but I can never find any for a reasonable price that don't need extensive paint/repair work.

 

 

New OEM bumpers would be more expensive than used JDM, no? Plenty of JDM importers in Canada.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Talk to your painter. They might prefer to color change used bumpers if you can find a decent set. New plastic is difficult to get paint to stick to

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

Painter was good woth new bumpers.
New OEM bumpers would be more expensive than used JDM, no? Plenty of JDM importers in Canada.
Surprisingly, new front and rear bumpers/components is just over $700 locally for me.
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