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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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I usually undo the front and rear LCA attachment points and let it hang and there’s enough room to get a straight shot. You can also rotate the whole arm outboard at that point and get even more room to work.

 

I’ve also just pulled the whole knuckle and LCA before, which is great if you’re doing bearings or axles during the same job.

 

I pulled the arm after trying to do it on the car. Once it was off, all bushings were bad. Mevotech loaded arms vs cleaning up rusted arms needing all new bushings? Its not a race car. But still messed putting the ball joints in, so didn't save myself much time. meh

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I can ship you the ball joint puller if it would help. Just let me know.

 

 

Mine arrived last night! I kinda forgot it was a thing and was thinking I could use the ball joint tool I had.

 

Yea I bought the loaded mevotech arms. Most of my issues came from drilling out the bolt. Once the ball joint puller got here it went pretty easy. Ball joint was definitely bad though.

 

e472e394a297afb26e46e76b22c019d4.jpeg

 

 

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I love the potential and anticipation of pictures like this.

 

How do you like that quick jack?

I love the Quick Jacks... I don't have the slab thickness to put my Max Jax in this shop which is a bit disappointing, but these work great for what I've been doing so far.

 

This is up in my 3 bay garage. e71d6040b3632cbf9dd8030e96dbbfef.jpg

 

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Nice. Been wanting a MaxJax for years. Do you leave it set up all the time, or do you move it when not in use?
Right now that garage is just storing a Trump Spitfire on the Max Jax and my 1990 Indy Beretta and my wife uses the third bay for her 04 Forester daily. The floor there was only 4" thick... Just enough for the anchors but it's not staying that way forever. I will be cutting the center of the floor out and pouring a 6-7" thick slab in the center bay. Anchors shouldn't be in through holes... Once I start using that shop more it may get moved, and stored when not in use since getting those posts out of the way is a huge benefit. For now tho it's temporary setup and hasn't budged.

 

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After years of calling the GS MBCB bling, I came into possession of a nib unit. I feel blessed to be in the presence of its greatness. I'm forever humbled to be the caretaker of this fantastic engineering marvel. I'm building a shelf of honor in the shop.

 

btw, its for sale

 

 

I like the idea of gold plated and coated with Swarovski.

 

I also clearly misremember. I thought people had issues with firewall flex popping tack welds. Idk wtf I'm thinking about.

 

 

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Had my steering rack rebuilt. Was clunking fiercely.

 

 

I've been meaning to ask this question forever: while turning on a bumpy dirt road, I keep hearing clunking which is also felt through the steering column. I can't figure out where it is coming from. Going straight on a bumpy road does not do that. :confused:

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I like the idea of gold plated and coated with Swarovski.

 

I also clearly misremember. I thought people had issues with firewall flex popping tack welds. Idk wtf I'm thinking about.

 

 

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Been spending serious time with the cowl of a sedan (getting the dash out intact from a wrecked car). There's multiple layers of steel in there. If someone is popping tack welds, I want to see pics. Because that sounds like a recall issue.

 

I read how flimsy the cowl is. So it was some trepidation I used the engine hoist to lift the front of the car via the cowl. Not even a creak. When I get the car stripped, I'll get out the sledgehammer and test the strength of it.

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SB end links?

 

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That would clunk regardless of the steering direction though. Only clunks (a lot!) during turns and dirt roads.

 

 

 

could be the rear bushing on your lca has failed. Usually the tear is hard to see unless looking right at it

 

 

 

 

I don't think that's it. I have whiteline bushings there. I am telling you, it is a weird one. And it's not just a single clunk, it's a lot of clunking felt through the steering column, like something is loose; but only during turns (no need to be full lock) AND on bumpy road. Both of my cars do that btw. And one of them has brand new whiteline LCA bushings and front swaybar endlinks. Crazy..

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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That would clunk regardless of the steering direction though. Only clunks (a lot!) during turns and dirt roads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't think that's it. I have whiteline bushings there. I am telling you, it is a weird one. And it's not just a single clunk, it's a lot of clunking felt through the steering column, like something is loose; but only during turns (no need to be full lock) AND on bumpy road. Both of my cars do that btw. And one of them has brand new whiteline LCA bushings and front swaybar endlinks. Crazy..

 

 

I've been dealing with something similar to that. It got more noticeable when I put in the replacement steering rack with poly bushings. So far I've done calipers, greased caliper pins, tie rods, steering rack, sway bars bushings and ends links. Got new control arms going in for bushings and ball joints. Hub bearing feels fine as does the axle. I'm thinking top hats next if needed because it seems to have something to do with compression.

 

 

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Been spending serious time with the cowl of a sedan (getting the dash out intact from a wrecked car). There's multiple layers of steel in there. If someone is popping tack welds, I want to see pics. Because that sounds like a recall issue.

 

I read how flimsy the cowl is. So it was some trepidation I used the engine hoist to lift the front of the car via the cowl. Not even a creak. When I get the car stripped, I'll get out the sledgehammer and test the strength of it.

 

 

Well that's good at least. I could be thinking about a different car for the tack welds popping over time. Too much information and too little organization in my head.

 

 

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max capacity has a thread on steering clunking. I believe it was by replacing the steering column connector unit to the rack.

 

Mine was more of a intermittent shimmy. That solid steering link from a STI fixed it.

 

Years ago the clunking was either sway bar end links or lower ball joint.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have repaired MANY popped spot welds in Subie firewalls. But none were an LGT. Known issue in specific model years WRX/STi. Subie even covered a few of my repairs under warranty as dealerships do not weld. Stiff aftermarket clutch pedals do not help the situation.

 

As for the sound heard, check the front sway bar. I have had a few that bent slightly and came into contact on dirt roads. The clutch issue can be heard, "click or pop" and felt (assembly travels left) when depressed. The pivot tube of the assembly cracks sometimes too. Replaced a few of those as well. I have pix somewhere.

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