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Bax004

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Everything posted by Bax004

  1. I managed to get the infamous rod bearing knock on my 2009 limited this past weekend. So I will be parting it out. I will be making a post in the marketplace once I get pictures of everything available. If anyone is looking for items, let me know!

  2. Try swapping cylinder 2 ignition coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. If that doesn’t give you anything then do the same test with the spark plug from cylinder 2. I just saw you already swapped coils and replaced plugs. I would still say do the spark plug swap just for shits and giggles. If that doesn’t result in anything then I would do compression and leak down tests.
  3. That’s weird! I plugged the new one in, my buddy connected the scan tool in and was done within 5 minutes. Programmed the keys, and vin # so it would match. I guess it helps that I’m good friends with someone there. I know most dealerships don’t want to deal with a used situation because either they’re scared and want you to buy new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Have you tried wiggling the battery terminal connections? I’ve had cars that “look good” on the terminals but still had just enough corrosion inside to cause an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. UPDATE: I finally said screw it and pulled the trigger on a used ecm. Had a friend of mine that’s still at the dealership, program the keys and everything works great. No more check engine light. So it is possible to transfer ecm’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I spent the weekend replacing the clutch to my 2009 lgt. Lesson learned, don’t buy cheap drivetrain parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Just an fyi- You can add blue to green, but not recommended to add green to blue. If you add anything to blue (besides blue) even water, it shortens the mileage interval. Anything added to blue cuts the replacement interval by at least 50%. If you have green coolant the mileage interval won’t be affected. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Yes I know what the code is for, I’ve gone through the test plan for it that’s why I’m concluding with replacing the ecm. Yes the car starts and runs, just doesn’t run the way it’s supposed to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. P0032 - A/F sensor circuit high input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I’ve tried everything I can for the code that I have. And everything says “repair loose connection” and that’s at the ecm. I’ve done voltage checks, ohmed out wires in the harness. Trust me the last thing I wanted to do was deal with the ecm but that’s what it looks to be. But yes I do agree with you, all the years of being at the dealer I never had to replace one. Leave it to my own personal car, and not being at the dealer anymore for this to happen lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. The main reason I’m asking is because I found a 2009 LGT ecm that is literally 1 letter off from mine, the one listed 22611am96a mine is 22611am96b. Even the two big letters match, just that last character on the part #. And it’s also $200 cheaper lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I found a used ecm on eBay that matches my part # and everything, but they want over $300 for a used ecm. Has anyone succeeded in replacing their ecm with a different part # ecm? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Bump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks. I’m in Southern MD. Apparently the borla header sensor spot sticks out a little further than others. I contacted my buddy that works for Subaru and he sent me the test plan, so I followed that. There were only 2 steps, checked resistance through the harness and checked voltage at the ecm. But my voltage readings didn’t seem legit so that’s still in question. I may try to take another crack at that when I get some free time and day light. What ideas do you have in mind? Any information would be greatly appreciated, I miss having my sport # mode lol (and cruise control) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. So I have a P0032 code pop up after I replaced my headers. The harness was tight and unable to reach the A/F sensor connection. So I bought an harness extension for the A/F sensor, installed it and cleared the codes. Start the car and code comes right back. Performed a resistance check from the engine bay main connection to the sensor and all wires checked out fine. So then I started looking into the ecm, performed some voltage checks and couldn’t seem to get any feedback for the results. (And I checked all fuses) So now I’m around eBay for a used ecm. While there are used m/t gt ecms available, none of them match my part number. Does anyone have any input as to whether or not a different part number would be compatible? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Most likely is residual from replacing the turbo. I had it happen when I rebuilt my engine. The reason you’re only seeing it during situations because when you’re loading the engine, there’s fluid built up somewhere and is then flowing on to the exhaust. I’d give it a week or two with driving and if it doesn’t go away then maybe check for an issue. Keep an eye on your temp gauge and your reservoir to see if any drastic changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. MD: Trying to find a used, unmarried AccessPort for my LGT. I’ll even consider a married unit if the price is right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I spoiled myself and bought a ball joint remover, makes ball joints soooo easy. I bought it when I was still in the dealership, its a snap-on tool. There might be other alternatives out there now, but if you want the part number for it let me know.
  19. I have my old stock headers just sitting, it's rusty as hell and the heat shields are crap but its yours if you want it.
  20. With it starting briefly while using ether, that makes me think the fuel pump might be bad. Even with a tooth or two off the engine should still start, only thing it would do is cause the check engine light to come on. Can you verify that you're getting fuel pressure?
  21. Unfortunately there isn't "one price for all" between different dealerships, every dealership has their own labor rate and flat rate time set. Before I left my dealership, they set a system to where every job was the same cost no matter the writer or tech working on the vehicle. If you have to have the dealership do any repairs, I for one would look into getting your own parts. That could save you hundreds of dollars depending on the job. There's a ton of information out there to where you could do these jobs yourself, its a matter of ability and confidence. But if you do find a tutorial, make sure you follow it to a T! Also, ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK!!!!
  22. Ever since my engine rebuild ive used Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30. Used Castrol high mileage synthetic 5w-30 in my WRX when I was still in the dealership and that engine had 237k before it got totaled. But ive never had a ton of horsepower to really feel the need to buy higher performance oils. The WRX probably had around 275 whp, and now the LGT is at 305 whp. Between the two oils, I've been satisfied with both.
  23. Gotcha. Kvikken I'm thinking check the switch for any type of corrosion, and ohm the switch to make sure its making contact (or if you can find a cheap known good switch you could always replace to rule out the switch.) If everything there is good, then I'd start ohming out wires and connections.
  24. Does everything run off the same switch? In the US, headlights, foglights and turn signals are all on the same stalk.
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