awfulwaffle Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Do you remember if that residue was there before? Does it look new or old and dusty? Could you have set the covers on something while they were off? Did you spray anything on the bolts to let them loose when taking them off? Just throwing this out as food for thought. If the insides are nice and dry, I'd just wipe the covers and keep an eye on them (and oil level). That's what I ended up doing. Wiped it off ajd will keep an eye on it. The underside was meticulously clean when I finished IIRC, but it was also pretty late. Time will tell I suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Installed KTA124’s last night. Unfortunately can’t drive it or fine tune them until I get my Koyorad delivered and installed. About 6 months ago I broke the fitting from the return line from the overflow tank into the radiator after leaning on it... JB weld worked for s good while until now. Good reason to upgrade to a Koyo I guess. These come with decals now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Notorious Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 These come with decals now? Nope, I have a partial sponsorship with Whiteline as a member of their ambassador program so I have ton of decal sets in different colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrho Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Got a deposit for my wagon yesterday and will be off to it's new owner come Saturday. Car made my first Subaru ownership pretty fantastic and will definitely be missed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 First post-break-in oil change! Time to tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keepinthatempo Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out. Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter... Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out. Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter... Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage. Traditional oil does not cause “leakage”. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Think he meant using conventional oil for a long time, and then switching to synth oil will make any leaks more evident/worse. Don't know if there's truth to that though. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Installed KTA124’s last night. How difficult is the install? I haven't touched the rear in 14 years of ownership other then swapping wheel bearings and swapping rear diff from R160 to R180. Debating whether I attempt to do it myself or pay the man. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Notorious Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) How difficult is the install? I haven't touched the rear in 14 years of ownership other then swapping wheel bearings and swapping rear diff from R160 to R180. Debating whether I attempt to do it myself or pay the man. California car, not that difficult. Rhode Island car, probably pretty stubborn. The only bolt I really had trouble with was the toe adjustment bolt on the subframe because it’s near the exhaust and my Avo brackets were in the way. I could only use a 17mm open end wrench and couldn’t fit a socket in there so I was turning away for a good 3-4 minutes with limited space. You’d have more space if you don’t have the Avo brackets like me. Rubber mallet and a screwdriver helps a lot getting the washers sandwiched in. And of course a breaker bar but I use the handle of the jack. Otherwise I’d say 5/10 in difficulty. If you have antisieze on any of those bolts already from maybe previous alignments you’re in luck. Edited October 1, 2019 by Notorious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 I have a salt free Washington car and I had to sawzall my rear arms out when I did the KTA 124. Toe Bolts were seized something fierce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out. Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter... Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage.If it is actually coming from around the oil filter then it might be the oil cooler gasket. Can change it and a few hoses next oil change. Does it have any mods? A fumoto valve is nice for oil changes and collecting oil samples, which i'd recommend. Turbo subaru? * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Sawzall and chisel were mandatory for me, even on a nearly rust free Michigan/Wisconsin car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Notorious Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Wow, I must have really lucked out. Once I had the nuts off from the toe bolts I used a 22mm on the head of the bolt to thread it out and a hammer on the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) I'm sure someone else has given this advice elsewhere, but here's a reminder that a lot of dirt and gunk makes it up to the fender wells. I thought I was pretty active about keeping rust at bay between power washing the chassis and annual the Fluid Film application, but I spotted some incipient rust on the dog leg prone section of my wagon. Upon removing the liner I found a lot of dirt compacted along the edge and a significant amount of moisture despite the car being under a car cover and there not being any rain for days. I'm quite certain it's the moisture from the dirt (and car not being driven) that contributed to this rust bubble. Beneath the plastic dogleg trim piece everything was still ok. In the future, I'm going to remove all the liners and use Salt Away to my annual underbody cleaning routine. Hey madrig, how are those fender flares coming In other news, here's a truck I saw on the streets of NYC over the weekend. Edited October 1, 2019 by Enlight muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out. Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter... Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage. Some oil filters like NAPA WIX filters are noted for unscrewing themselves because they hang down. I had this at my last oil change and I switched to an Amzoil filter. Pricey, but no leaks. The synthetic oil issue was solved some time ago. The polyalphaolefin content in synthetic oils tends to shrink the seals. To counteract that, esters were added to swell the seals so that no change occurred in seal dimensions. When the API-SN versions of oil came out, additional esters were added to keep leaks at bay by swelling the seals more than necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) I'm sure someone else has given this advice elsewhere, but here's a reminder that a lot of dirt and gunk makes it up to the fender wells. I thought I was pretty active about keeping rust at bay between power washing the chassis and annual the Fluid Film application, but I spotted some incipient rust on the dog leg prone section of my wagon. Upon removing the liner I found a lot of dirt compacted along the edge and a significant amount of moisture despite the car being under a car cover and there not being any rain for days. I'm quite certain it's the moisture from the dirt (and car not being driven) that contributed to this rust bubble. Beneath the plastic dogleg trim piece everything was still ok. In the future, I'm going to remove all the liners and use Salt Away to my annual underbody cleaning routine. Hey madrig, how are those fender flares coming In other news, here's a truck I saw on the streets of NYC over the weekend. You city kids... Out here in the country most every Pick Up truck more then 7 or 8 y/o looks like that. You can see them every where. Here you can see where I cut the rust out of the 86' F150 back about 2008. Edited October 1, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Here's the old girl about 7 years ago. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Max - any of that corrosion starting on your wagon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Just one small spot behind the left rear tire that I seem to have been keeping at bay. I spray the inside with fluid film through that small space between the plastic bumper, the rear fender and the wheel well liner. On the outside I have ground out the rust and filled it with black RTV. I'm also watching a bubble under the paint below the gas door. I should do something with that soon, but the car is 15+ y/o... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I think almost everyone gets that spot in the rear fender area above the tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Can confirm - same exact spot as Enlight and Max. Passenger side where the quarter-panel meets the body above the wheel I have some small paint bubbling. Nothing on the driver/gas door side, though. This was repaired last spring and even with no winter driving last year it's starting to bubble again. Frustrating. The guy who looked at my car last year to fix the rust instantly commented on the rubber trim piece in the wheel well and how it notoriously traps dirt and water on Subarus, causing rust issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I had rust bubbling at the front of my roof along the top edge of my windshield. They said that meant the windshield must have been replaced before I bought it, because that's usually how that spot happens. I had that spot fixed, though. Never had the wheel well fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I was mistaken - it is the gas door side with bubbling. Opposite side is clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 (edited) Here's the old Ford currently, this past June I finally got around to gluing on the patch panels I bought back in 2009 for $19.00 from JC Whitney. Looks good from a distance...LOL This past summer I've had two random people come up to me and ask me if I wanted to sell it. It does have lot's of newer parts with not many miles in the last 6 years or so. Oh I even found the old gas door, in a box in the shed, repaired the frozen hinge pin and put it back on. Edited October 2, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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