What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[whitexc]

Big day for the 2009 OBP LGT. Aside from the wonky 5EAT.....the car is great.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[BoozeRS05]

Both of mine have +100k miles on yours...

 

Grabbing a CNT catted downpipe from a friend tomorrow for $50, pretty happy about that.

[MaasaiWarrior]

New JDM toys arrived! There should be another box arriving in a week.

I got lucky on the rear garnishes and grabbed that auction while a bunch of people were bidding on another set.

Edited May 29, 2019 by MaasaiWarrior

[Max Capacity]

I think he's talking about moving them to the Harmon Kardon position in the corners where the door mirror covers are.

 

I checked inside my Spec B before leaving today, it's HK mid range speakers are in the same position as the wagons, just in front of the door handles.

 

May be your referring to a different Gen ?

[Andy_Mac]

Or the Mcintosh setup which has both the mirror cover ones and the ones in front of the handles.

Have always wanted to customise my mirror ones to fit my Polk tweeters as I feel the current door handle position pushes the sound stage too far forward so has never sounded as good as it should have.

[amm203]

Managed to avoid the crazy ping-pong sized hail up around Cranberry/Mars area last night.

 

Driving impressions with the Spec. B aluminum rear components ~60 miles after alignment;

- Management of potholes is the most noticeable. Suspension seems much less impacted by the usual potholes/road imperfections on my commute to and from work. Ride quality overall is much improved

- Turn-in is the same but the rear end is much more happy to come around. Less understeer overall and virtually no steering adjustment necessary when the car is coming around sweeping medium & long turns. This may be more a symptom of practically all new poly bushings and proper rear alignment due to the KCA399 bushings. Old bushings had 110K miles on them

- Acceleration is seemingly unchanged - no surprise there

- No noticeable NVH increases with the poly bushings

 

Now I'll just have to see how long the squeaking stays away

[Kojak]

Took a 200 mile round trip cruise on Friday to one of my favorite drives, the Boonville Highway 253. Twenty miles of twists, turns, and climb over a rocky pass to a serene valley. Haven’t hit it in the LGT since she was new to me at the end of ‘14. Suspension overhaul done in the meantime made it so much more fun. Felt like a flying carpet ride.

[DadBod]

Changed the accelerator position sensor on Eleanor-Christine, which means the whole gas pedal assembly, since you can't get the sensor separate. Cleared memory 2. Now just need to wait till after the kid goes to bed to test drive it and perform the relearn procedure. *crosses fingers hoping this works*

 

If this doesn't do it, then at least I can be sure that it needs a valve body. FSM diag procedures have been VERY helpful.

 

(anyone have a Hexmod or IPT valve body for an '05 they want to get rid of?)

[SubOperator]

Had my driver side front caliper replaced few months ago to new OEM unit chasing down hard vibrations during braking at various speeds. That helped a little but did not completely cure that and the issue came back. Calipers were originals at 14 years old so I figured it's time...

 

 

Replaced all remaining 3 brake calipers with new OEM units. New OEM brake rotors in the back. Ended up replacing left side dust shield since original one rusted out and parking brake shoes were preventing me from pulling old rotor off. Stupid design tbh when parking brake shoes are positioned with tiny pins that are holding to 1-2mm worth of sheet metal exposed to elements. Duh.

 

 

Put new wheel bearing assembly on that corner too, even though old one was less than 50K; just because "while I am there".

 

 

 

Car moves better and is much more quiet, my rear pads and rotors were almost gone and with new units life is good. Still got severe vibration on steering wheel during braking at high speed though, even with both new calipers up front. I might end up changing my NAPA sourced front rotors and pads that I replaced while front calipers were sticking to new OEM units. Wondering if front pads did not wear evenly and this keep causing the vibrations (they were visibly OK but who knows, I didn't measure them).

 

 

 

Don't want to destroy my new WL rods and ball joints.

[Scottydunno]

Finally installed my long acquired catted DP. Flashed stage 2 from the AP. I'm kinda liking this.. [emoji106][emoji106]

 

Scotty

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Scheduled dyno time for the wagon in mid-July with Shinji Tuned. Looking forward to getting off Cobb's OTS stg 2 tune.

[mechanic58]

Haven't done anything yet - but there's a good chance I may set it on fire and watch it burn.

[Notorious]

As mentioned before I bought myself a set of Enkei NT03’s for my birthday yesterday. They’re out for delivery already this morning. Quite impressive the turnaround time with the vendor I got them from. Now I gotta find some 245/35r18 Federal RSRR tires...

[DoctorDaveLGT]

As mentioned before I bought myself a set of Enkei NT03’s for my birthday yesterday. They’re out for delivery already this morning. Quite impressive the turnaround time with the vendor I got them from. Now I gotta find some 245/35r18 Federal RSRR tires...

 

What color did you go with?

[Max Capacity]

Had my driver side front caliper replaced few months ago to new OEM unit chasing down hard vibrations during braking at various speeds. That helped a little but did not completely cure that and the issue came back. Calipers were originals at 14 years old so I figured it's time...

 

 

Replaced all remaining 3 brake calipers with new OEM units. New OEM brake rotors in the back. Ended up replacing left side dust shield since original one rusted out and parking brake shoes were preventing me from pulling old rotor off. Stupid design tbh when parking brake shoes are positioned with tiny pins that are holding to 1-2mm worth of sheet metal exposed to elements. Duh.

 

 

Put new wheel bearing assembly on that corner too, even though old one was less than 50K; just because "while I am there".

 

 

 

Car moves better and is much more quiet, my rear pads and rotors were almost gone and with new units life is good. Still got severe vibration on steering wheel during braking at high speed though, even with both new calipers up front. I might end up changing my NAPA sourced front rotors and pads that I replaced while front calipers were sticking to new OEM units. Wondering if front pads did not wear evenly and this keep causing the vibrations (they were visibly OK but who knows, I didn't measure them).

 

 

 

Don't want to destroy my new WL rods and ball joints.

 

 

Usually shaking under braking, is caused by build up on the brake pads or the pads inability to shed brake dust. Re-bedding the brakes will normally help. Unless there is a mechanical problem.

 

I'm having good performance out of my NAPA calipers & rotors, wish I could remember which pads I used...duh.

[BoozeRS05]

Grabbed that CNT downpipe yesterday from my buddy. It's got 30k miles, but it looks great and the cat looked brand new from what I could see inside. Got it wrapped today, although not my best job, and I'll spray coat tomorrow.

 

Also just finished installing a JDM rear sway bar. With 162k miles the sedan undercarriage isn't too bad, both endlinks came off at least. In and out dropping the exhaust (mid-pipe hanger is rusted off) was about 1.5 hours. Long day so no scenic route home to test it out, but that OEM RSB is hilariously puny.

[SubOperator]

Usually shaking under braking, is caused by build up on the brake pads or the pads inability to shed brake dust. Re-bedding the brakes will normally help. Unless there is a mechanical problem.

 

I'm having good performance out of my NAPA calipers & rotors, wish I could remember which pads I used...duh.

 

That's what I am thinking too. Will take the front wheels off on weekend and check around. Napa rotors and pads are less than a year old, both front calipers are new OEM. Weird part is that the issue is not consistent, sometimes it is there and sometimes it is not. Bled the brakes so air should not be an issue. New ball joints and new steering rods so suspension should be tight.

 

I am thinking may be NAPA pads aren't exact size and lock in caliper when moving. Had Autozone pads that I had to file to fit years ago. No noise from front wheel bearing either. Steering has no play.

 

Unless I got extremely lucky and one of new front calipers is defective.

[Notorious]

What color did you go with?

 

Through the back and forth emails with the vendor discussing discounts, etc. I mentioned I cannot decide between the gold and silver. I sent them pictures of the car currently (on gold wheels) and mentioned that silver would flow well with the silver headlight and exhaust garnishes. He said, why not both? I thought about it for a while and decided on getting a mismatched set. Going to run two silver on the passenger side, two gold on the driver side.

 

May be a bit weird and unique but that’s what my build has been about since the beginning. He mentioned I can always send back two of them if I decide I like one wheel over the other. He said we would just split shipping costs.

[Flinkly]

Through the back and forth emails with the vendor discussing discounts, etc. I mentioned I cannot decide between the gold and silver. I sent them pictures of the car currently (on gold wheels) and mentioned that silver would flow well with the silver headlight and exhaust garnishes. He said, why not both? I thought about it for a while and decided on getting a mismatched set. Going to run two silver on the passenger side, two gold on the driver side.

 

 

 

May be a bit weird and unique but that’s what my build has been about since the beginning. He mentioned I can always send back two of them if I decide I like one wheel over the other. He said we would just split shipping costs.

That's the craziest and best thing i've heard in a while. Most people won't even notice since it's split between sides.

 

* Thumbs up *

[amptramp]

Through the back and forth emails with the vendor discussing discounts, etc. I mentioned I cannot decide between the gold and silver. I sent them pictures of the car currently (on gold wheels) and mentioned that silver would flow well with the silver headlight and exhaust garnishes. He said, why not both? I thought about it for a while and decided on getting a mismatched set. Going to run two silver on the passenger side, two gold on the driver side.

 

May be a bit weird and unique but that’s what my build has been about since the beginning. He mentioned I can always send back two of them if I decide I like one wheel over the other. He said we would just split shipping costs.

 

Back about five decades ago when Ferrari hand-built cars, they quite often turned out to be asymmetrical. Ferrari's response to someone mentioning this was, "Nobody looks at both side of the car at the same time."

[amptramp]

Had my driver side front caliper replaced few months ago to new OEM unit chasing down hard vibrations during braking at various speeds. That helped a little but did not completely cure that and the issue came back. Calipers were originals at 14 years old so I figured it's time...

 

 

Put new wheel bearing assembly on that corner too, even though old one was less than 50K; just because "while I am there".

 

 

 

Car moves better and is much more quiet, my rear pads and rotors were almost gone and with new units life is good. Still got severe vibration on steering wheel during braking at high speed though, even with both new calipers up front. I might end up changing my NAPA sourced front rotors and pads that I replaced while front calipers were sticking to new OEM units. Wondering if front pads did not wear evenly and this keep causing the vibrations (they were visibly OK but who knows, I didn't measure them).

 

A lot of what some people feel is "warped rotors" is actually variations in the deposition of brake material from the pads to the rotor. The brakes work by friction between the pad and deposited pad material on the rotor, that is why you have a bedding-in process where you start from low speeds and brake gently but only down to about 20 mph the first ten times or so.

 

If it feels like that is the problem, take a light bit of material off with fine sandpaper and repeat the bedding-in process. If there isn't a procedure on the instruction sheet for the pads, start with light application of brakes from 40 mph down to twenty, the light application so the material deposits evenly. Progress to higher speeds and braking down to 10 mph after that then your brakes are ready and should not be uneven.

 

If there is still a problem, make sure you have applied the high-temperature brake pad lube without it getting one the pad faces and make sure you have cleaned the sliding surfaces properly if you are reusing the old stainless sliders on the caliper.

[amm203]

FWIW, after replacing my rear bushings (and coupled with almost new front bushings), I'm noticing that braking is much smoother than before. It's still likely deposits but if your bushings are on the older side you'll notice a considerable smoothing out of the braking if you refresh them

[MaasaiWarrior]

Presents for the car arrived today, another package from japan with a few small things, and then these babies showed up for the brembo swap. Probably my favorite set of brake pads I've ever driven on.

[Max Capacity]

That's what I am thinking too. Will take the front wheels off on weekend and check around. Napa rotors and pads are less than a year old, both front calipers are new OEM. Weird part is that the issue is not consistent, sometimes it is there and sometimes it is not. Bled the brakes so air should not be an issue. New ball joints and new steering rods so suspension should be tight.

 

I am thinking may be NAPA pads aren't exact size and lock in caliper when moving. Had Autozone pads that I had to file to fit years ago. No noise from front wheel bearing either. Steering has no play.

 

Unless I got extremely lucky and one of new front calipers is defective.

 

Make sure the tabs on the pads slide freely in the spring clips in the calipers. I think we talked about removing a little material with a grinder.

[utc_pyro]

Today: I replaced the Nexus 7 wiring harness and the battery eliminator circuit with one that was ground isolated. Hopefully this will solve the false dead battery alerts and shutdowns as the coulomb counter wont be as confused.

 

The standalone/piggyback electronic boost controller for the external wastage arrived today. Just waiting on the Mac 45A 4-port valve to get here to go wire that up. I'm excited to actually have wastegate tuning by gear as the '05-'06 ECU doesn't have it. Currently the EWG MBC hits 14psi in 1st, 16psi in second, and ~18psi in 3rd. This this has something simular to out initalt wastegate duty cycle tables along with boost targets and pid peramiters for each gear, .

Edited June 1, 2019 by utc_pyro