Tysparks81 Spec. B Project Log

[NoOne1223]

Dude. Build looks great so far! Hope she's running well, and I personally cannot wait to start basic things on my new (to me, and first car) '05 LGT wagon. Thanks for being an inspiration, and I hope to see your car around the Golden Horseshoe!

[tysparks81]

Dude. Build looks great so far! Hope she's running well, and I personally cannot wait to start basic things on my new (to me, and first car) '05 LGT wagon. Thanks for being an inspiration, and I hope to see your car around the Golden Horseshoe!

 

Thank you, she wasn't running great but more on that below. Congrats on the new car. You will see me around there this summer as we will be setting up a cruise out that way.

[tysparks81]

Below is the break-in oil change schedule I got from my engine builder. Who isn't the same shop that did the install/initial break-in of the motor but something definitely got lost in translation between both shops. Very happy things are fixed now, the video below is on the night after picking up the car last sat. it didn't sound bad though.

 

 

https://live.staticflickr.com/video/51214159319/c07cd00ea7/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MTIxNDE1OTMxOSwiZSI6MTYyMjY2NzU5MCwicyI6IjRjNjgyNDZiZDU2ZDBlMDgxOTA2ZmJiNDBkYzEzMDI2M2FhZDM2ZTgiLCJ2IjoxfQ

 

startup/cam break-in - Motul 10w40 break-in oil (completed)

50km - Motul 10w40 break-in oil (completed)

250km - Motul 10w40 break-in oil (completed)

1,000km - Motul 10w40 break-in oil (up next)

2,000km - Motul 5w40 synthetic (up next)

 

So when I picked the car up it sounded good but there was slight hesitation, and it just didn't seem like it was running right. But I thought maybe it was due to needing to break in the clutch properly first, as I stalled more than I would like to admit, lol.

 

 

The first problem i ran into was that the wrong map was loaded onto the AP from the shop that did the install. I didn't notice when I first picked up the car because it was running and there were no cell codes on the dash for the first 150kms. So while doing my first bit of engine break-in driving a CEL light popped up for misfires on cylinder 1,2,3,& 4(I assumed the correct map was on the AP when I picked up the car since that is what they were supposed to be doing the break-in with but that's' a whole other story for another day but mainly my fault for not checking).

 

Cels fixed by gapping plugs to .030

 

Dyno scheduled for June 23rd. So some updates on what a heartbreaker dyno says my setup makes for those that care. I'm trying to find an UELH or possibly an ELH since I have been told the stock UELH it will limit what I can make with my current setup. But the wife has said she needs to approve any and all future spending since I went a little overboard on this setup

 

But my baby driver seems to like it just as much as me so I'm sure it will grow on the wife eventually.

Edited June 3, 2021 by tysparks81
Didn’t feel like complaining about sloppy workmanship :(

[rhino6303]

Original plugs are NGK 7913 which should be gapped to 0.8mm or about 0.031". Anything from 0.028-0.033" is fine for oem or mild modifications.

 

I use NGK 5245 which are the same but one step colder. These come stock on the RA and 2019+ sti. The specs have the gap at 0.6mm or 0.024" but I just install and go.

Edited June 3, 2021 by rhino6303

[tysparks81]

Original plugs are NGK 7913 which should be gapped to 0.8mm or about 0.031". Anything from 0.028-0.33" is fine for oem or mild modifications.

 

I use NGK 5245 which are the same but one step colder. These come stock on the RA and 2019+ sti. The specs have the gap at 0.6mm or 0.024" but I just install and go.

 

Strange not sure why the plugs would be throwing cel misfire then.

Will update with a pic when I can get to my computer later

[NORULZleggy]

Strange not sure why the plugs would be throwing cel misfire then.

Will update with a pic when I can get to my computer later

 

Your car looks just like mine, just with different color wheels. I want to see what the dyno says also. You have the 6-speed, so you can get more power out of it. I need the 6 speed to turn mine up.

[tysparks81]

It's been so long since I've posted an update that I don't even know where to start. Sorted out the misfire, but was unimpressed with the final dyno numbers only to have the motor break 2 months after being dyno tuned. Had been experiencing random hesitation over the whole 4 months that the motor was installed in the car. The hesitation couldn't be isolated or identified also the car only made 260whp & 260wtq....something just wasn't quite right.

 

Little did I know what I was in store for. I decided to pick up a blouch 2.5xtr due to the low numbers thinking the vf52 was the root my issue (it was fine). The new turbo arrived on Oct 13th, but by Oct. 24th the car was dead.

 

Was driving home and the car started acting weird, would not accelerate past 3k, I was 5mins from home and I had the family in the car so I limped the car home. It would die everytime I came to a stop and sounded like it was running on only 2 cylinders, no Cel lights a all. Did a whole bunch of checks that night and the following day but could not get to why it wouldn't start and hold idle without gas, or why it sounded like it was only running on two cylinders. One of the local subaru shops told me I could tow it out to them. After a few test they let me know that I had a problem, 100% leak and 0 compression in cylinder 2. They put a camera into the cylinder and could see the valve sitting there.

 

That shop didn't build the motor and they couldn't tear it apart for another month at the earliest. So after speaking with the engine builder he says tow it out to him and he will pull the motor to figure out how bad things are, but says it could get expensive.

 

A few days go by and he send me a msg saying it's bad but not the worst case as we were thinking. A valve spring broke in three places and one valve was bent. No damage to the piston or cylinder walls, and no damage to the heads. I need to replace the valve and valve spring. Which is where things get tricky since he didn't have any singles in stock, he also tells me the clutch installed on the car is at end of life very soon.

 

So after speaking with Manley and confirming that one of their suppliers has the parts in stock I placed an order only to be told for nearly two months that the parts are back ordered, shipped, then not shipped over multiple weeks until Manley got sick of hearing from me and just shipped me the parts directly.

 

So on Jan 13th (2 months after placing the order) I finally received the two parts I needed to get my car back up and running. Along the way while waiting for the valve/spring to come in I happened to come across some parts that I thought I needed/wanted.

 

I picked up a new Act HD-M/sprung 6 puck clutch kit, since I already had a streetlight flywheel that just needed to be resurfaced. Found a good deal on a new Cobb LF bpv, a used Cobb SF intake w/ box, some borla headers that needed to be cleaned up, a magnaflow catback exhaust, an IAG competition AOS w/ -AN line kit, some replacement aluminum lca's with whiteline bushings, and replacement whiteline front swaybar bushings.

 

My thought process was I'm going to need to retune anyways so I might as well throw the parts on. But the header didn't get installed as the uppipe to header flange was just not straight and leaked bad when it was on the car.

 

The car is currently running with the 2.5xtr installed on it along with all the other parts. The plan was to etune the car this time around and put it on the dyno to see what it makes on pump gas. But I'm sitting on winter tires and the road are covered in slush since we got a big snow fall a week ago, so I may just dyno tune it again if the streets don't clear up soon though.

 

I did get the car back with two cels for left and right avcs but after doing a whole bunch of checks they disappeared and have not come back up. Fingers crossed this is the last time for a little while that the car is down. As the car sounds great and is running really well now, not a single bit of hesitation now.

 

Sent from my SM-N986W using Tapatalk

Edited February 1, 2022 by tysparks81

[tysparks81]

Dropped the header off to an exhaust shop to replace the flange, etune scheduled for Friday. Hoping to get the header on before we start tuning.

 

The cobb sf intake was for a 2015+ sti so it wouldn't fit without rewiring the maf and swapping my turbo inlet to a newer style inlet so I will circle back to swapping that later.

[Max Capacity]

Sorry to hear the valve issues. Good Luck.

[k00laid83]

I must not be paying attention these threads. I didn't realize you had a build thread. Totally following this!

[NORULZleggy]

wow this is crazy how you wet through all this stuff. I feel fortunate that my build went very well and runs great. 260/260 is very low. With what you have you should be making above 330 hp. Mine is in the garage staying warm. We are in the mist of a big snow storm and I will not drive it for a month at least lol. Great to see your getting it sorted out. How do you like that turbo?

[tysparks81]

wow this is crazy how you wet through all this stuff. I feel fortunate that my build went very well and runs great. 260/260 is very low. With what you have you should be making above 330 hp. Mine is in the garage staying warm. We are in the mist of a big snow storm and I will not drive it for a month at least lol. Great to see your getting it sorted out. How do you like that turbo?

 

Thanks yeah, definitely unfortunate but I knew something was off, just glad it wasn't any worse. Keep yours covered and safe for as long as you can.

 

Can't speak on the feel of turbo as I haven't started etuning yet, hopefully I will start etuning this weekend, got a big snow fall last week so couldn't or wouldn't etune it in that. Also needed to install winter tires, swapped in some new aluminum Lca's with whiteline bushings and replaced a leaking axle.

 

Then stopped over to massiwarrior's place and he flushed my heater core so now I have heat on the passenger side of the car since it's been running cold since the original motor started over heating.

 

Got the header installed, but noticed yesterday that one of my front struts are blown so will be swapping in a new set of bilstiens with sti pinks or whatever I can find at the local importer tomorrow.

[MaasaiWarrior]

TySparks is now in my garage, beating up on all my tools. He found new suspension JDM Pinks on Bilstiens, I can tell his progress by the sounds of my compressor and impact gun.

[tysparks81]

TySparks is now in my garage, beating up on all my tools. He found new suspension JDM Pinks on Bilstiens, I can tell his progress by the sounds of my compressor and impact gun.

 

Thank you my friend, much progress was made today, suspension swapped in, fog lights put back on, etune paid for. Cherry on top was a very good pizza with an even better friend. Sucks I killed my battery and popped out an axle when it was time to leave but still a great day.

[tysparks81]

Tuning has been going very well. But started to max out the MAF, tuner believes there is a lot more to make on my current setup. So ordered a iWire hybrid speed density kit, and had it installed yesterday. So we will be turning things up very shortly

 

Ordered a Coupler for the Perrin inlet so I can install my cobb sf intake and box but it has been back ordered and should show up in a few days.

 

Did the first oil change since the motor was fixed and re-installed as it took me a little while to get to 4500km.

 

Changed the bushings on an endlink when I was trying to track down a rattle on the front of the car, turned out I forgot to tighten the caliper bracket bolt.

 

Through all of that I was dealing with intermittent no start/crank. Had the battery tested came back fine, swapped in a used starter and not a week later was dealing with no start/crank again. Decided to replace the battery and it still wouldn't start. Was able to push start the car. So bought a brand new starter and car is back to running like it should.

 

Will be throwing on my summer rims/tires by the end of April which happens to be when we also get the keys to our new house.

[xt2005bonbon]

Through all of that I was dealing with intermittent no start/crank. Had the battery tested came back fine, swapped in a used starter and not a week later was dealing with no start/crank again. Decided to replace the battery and it still wouldn't start. Was able to push start the car. So bought a brand new starter and car is back to running like it should.

 

 

Oh, too bad you did not see my recent post on the outback thread. I suffered a very similar issue. Turned out the brushes were simply worn out on the starter. Bought some fresh brushes from ebay for 20$. Replaced them on the starter and now it works great!

 

 

See here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6060230&postcount=1677

[tysparks81]

Oh, too bad you did not see my recent post on the outback thread. I suffered a very similar issue. Turned out the brushes were simply worn out on the starter. Bought some fresh brushes from ebay for 20$. Replaced them on the starter and now it works great!

 

 

See here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6060230&postcount=1677

 

I haven't opened up the starter but that could have been the problem since the first two starters I put in were both used starters with unknown mileage on them.

 

Do you have the amazon link to the brushes?

[xt2005bonbon]

I am an ebay guy

My starter had 173K on it. But really, it's not the mileage, it's really the number of times the starter was used which is difficult/near impossible to measure.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291331389334?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Deefb4a1836254c59b1e43ed0af9f9be7%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D324538521370%26itm%3D291331389334%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa6182910-b73a-11ec-9515-7a00ce43383a%7Cparentrq%3A093b0c391800a7650d5f2621ffff83a4%7Ciid%3A1

[tysparks81]

So its been nearly a year since I have updated this thread which is crazy.  I do try to pop in every month, just haven't update this, too many small little things.

After getting caught up on all of the new build threads I figured now is as good a time as any to update mine.  Swapped to a hybrid MAF/speed density and finalized the e-tune on the car, very happy with the results of what the car makes now outside of the cost of 94 gas. 

Tuner left room to grow on this turbo and let me know I can get more out of this turbo setup but I would need to move to 1300cc injectors and meth to be on the safe side of things (can't get e85 up here in Canada for less than an arm, leg & your first born). 

Still the last year has been mainly trouble free outside of a few minor issues popping up towards the end of the year, but nothing crazy, swapped out the HKS intake I had for a Cobb SF + box after finally grabbing the correct part I was missing.  Needed new tires somewhere in July/August of last year.  My Front two were showing bad camber wear, rear tires were fine.  Replaced a blown front Kartboy endlink bushing but more so attributed the wear to the blown shocks I replaced earlier in the year, and opted for a brand new set of PS4's. Plus an alignment to make sure everything was straight.

Prior to buying the new tires I had won an auction for some strakes, but they sat for months since I was in no hurry to have new to me parts show up at the house as the wife would have complained about the unnecessary money into this car.  But as you all well know when a good deal comes up it is better to buy it at the deal then to wait and pay full price.  Also some parts are getting harder and harder to come by.  I only mention it because as I was on there looking at shipping cost so I could budget for that and the other parts I had waiting to ship.  I happened to stumble across a Damd D shaped wheel, which also spent the next couple of months waiting to be shipped in the meantime I found an 08 STI airbag locally, the clockspring for an 08 legacy since I had picked up the 08 legacy wheel years before with the intention of swapping to the upgraded steering wheel controls.  So I have everything to make this work, just working out the wiring as I would like to move my cruise control over to the newer SW buttons, enable the Si drive controls as well as the stereo SW controls. 

Then had the clutch master fail on me but I was going on vacation in a few days so parked the car, and mid way through my trip I ordered a replacement slave cylinder & stainless steel braided clutch line as I thought it was one of those that was leaking (don't diagnose leaks in the dark or cold, lol) only to find out it was the clutch master that was leaking.  I got lucky as a buddy of mine was parting a spec b, and was able to get me a replacement relatively quickly.  Was close to oil change time so I did that as well and swapped on my winter wheels & tires at my buddies shop.  Noticed I had a leaky transmission axle seal and that my Header was leaking again, but those were problems for another day.  Topped up the transmission fluid, and made sure everything was buttoned back up.  Car wasn't building boost after leaving the shop, but silly me forgot to tighten one of the IC hose clamps, so easy fix.  

But with the exhaust leaking again on my twice welded $100 used borla EL header (believe it was leaking when it was re-welded the last time but I didn't notice it, and it was probably leaking when I tuned the car). I opted to pick up a CNT Unequal length header, at nearly the same cost as the Borla + the cost of re-welding it multiple times.  But I found it on marketplace so shipped it to my US postal address and it also sat for a few month until I could make a quick trip over the boarder.

Now after this past Christmas I got my bonus from work and decided to ship in the boxes of parts that have been sitting in multiple storage warehouses.  I can tell you the wife was ok with the first box, but after the 4th or 5th box she wasn't too pleased.   Especially since our newly finished basements storage closet is now filled with said boxes as well as the previous items I have been collecting.

Now that I had all of the parts with me I decided if I was going to have the car up on the hoist to change the header, I might as well change the stupid leaking axle seal.  Keep in mind I had bought the seal maybe 6 months ago from the dealer when I knew it was leaking.   Obviously they had given me the wrong seal since it wouldn't fit and had to run to another dealer to grab another one, no big deal only a couple of hours waisted.   Get everything buttoned up, and a day later, I get an o2 CEL pop up.  So ordered a replacement Denso o2 and had it swapped out in my driveway in under 10mins.  I swear it took me more time to get my jack out from my storage shed then to change the damn part.

Unfortunately I do Daily this car, as I have to drop my daughter to daycare and pick her up 10mins each way so I don't really beat on it during the week.  Just mainly open it up on the weekends.  That being said I don't have a garage yet or covered parking so the Canadian winters or should I say the salt used on the road haven't been great on the paint and body, a few rust spots have popped up.  I had previously replaced the 4 doors & hood on this car with 4 rust free doors that are now starting to rust, and the hood is dented from a stuck/frozen hood latch.   My buddy that had parted the spec B, was also parting a very clean never winter driven automatic BSM sedan with only 140,000 km's on it.  He wanted the motor for an outback he had so we made a deal I couldn't pass up and picked up the 4 doors, the trunk, the rear bumper, and a hood for way too good of a deal for colour matched body panels, unfortunately my dog got to the bumper and chewed/scratched it up so I can't use it but everything else was tucked away in the basement or shed.   So as soon as warmer weather gets here I have a whole lot of work to get to.

Oh and my truck hook that the trunk locks to broke randomly one evening, it was 5mins to replace it but just a pain driving around and knowing it wouldn't lock for a few days, on top of having to find the part.  Fixed now thankfully.   Noticed I have an exhaust clamp that is broken, and another endlink bushing that is starting to go on the otherside so waiting for those parts to show up but I probably won't install anything else until March/April when its a little warmer out here.

My To Do list for the June PA meet

Replace swaybar endlink

Replace exhaust coupler

Swap doors, trunk, hood

Re-tint windows

Finish carbon ebrake handle & install

Install 08-09 Steering wheel & controls

Paint spats, stakes & optional front lip + install or alternatively just install tuned by sti front lip

Touchup paint on Duckbill & Install on new trunk

Install rear defuser

 

I may also have a few parts available for sale that are spares/extra

OEM optional rain visors w/ hardware

OEM optional spats front & rear

Galia side stakes

HKS intake filter & tube

Perrin recirculating bpv

JDM double din kit (radio harness, & antenna harness) may have an extra sw-01 box too need to check

 

Edited February 23, 2023 by tysparks81

[tysparks81]

So with the PA Meet a little over 2 months away I was able to get a few things done.  Replace the defective Denso O2.  Installed a Damd D shaped wheel with 08-09 steering wheel controls, moved the cruise from the stalk on the 07 wheel to the buttons on the steering wheel.  Finished adjusting the carbon ebrake handle and install it.   

I will say I broke one clock spring during the process and had to reset the steering angle sensor(SAS).  The last car I did the swap on didn't have VDC so less to keep in mind when swapping steering wheels.  Now after having the wheel off so many times trying to adjust the SAS & center the clockspring its a walk in the park, but it was a pain in my butt for a whole week.

Swapped on 3 of 4 new to me rust free colour matched doors, the 4th has some dings in the side moldings so I will be fixing those and then installing that door.  I will install the hood when I can get an extra set of hands.  Will also be adding a duckbill to the trunk lid and then it will get installed as well. 

 

I have prepped, sanded and primed the spats, stakes, front lip & duckbill, but hasn't been warm enough to paint yet. 

Picked up some new DBA 4000 rotors and Hawk pads, waiting on caliper paint to arrive before swapping on the new brakes, I will replace 1 Kartboy endlink bushing while I'm under there.

 

Ordered a replacement exhaust coupler but it has been on back order for a few months.  Might order it from somewhere else.  I still need to pick up transmission/diff fluid but I already have some oil & filter since I was due for an oil change now.

 

Not sure if I will have time to touch up some of the rust spots on the car or repaint the front bumper but if I get time I will do it.   Last thing would be to re-tint the windows but I might not get to that before the meet.

 

Will definitely come back and edit this and add a few pics, so consider this a place holder.

 

Edited April 18, 2023 by tysparks81

[xt2005bonbon]

Dang. You're going all out. Should post pics of progress.

[tysparks81]

17 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Dang. You're going all out. Should post pics of progress.

Yeah I've been taking a few pics when I get the chance, and will have a few more pics once I get closer to finishing a few more of those things on my to do list, just weather sucks for the next two weeks nothing but rain.

[KZJonny]

5 hours ago, tysparks81 said:

Yeah I've been taking a few pics when I get the chance, and will have a few more pics once I get closer to finishing a few more of those things on my to do list, just weather sucks for the next two weeks nothing but rain.

Yuuup. I feel ya! There is distinct irony in having to move around the not-yet assembled 10k lbs lift in my garage, so I have space to put up my car on the Quickjacks, in order to get repairs done. (Especially in time for the East Coast Meetup looming. All this rain isn't help getting anything done at all.

Edited April 18, 2023 by KZJonny

[tysparks81]

@KZJonny I know what you mean, I was really trying to avoid  working in the rain, but with my daughter being home sick today and me not needing to drive until the following morning. I would have been a fool to pass up having a whole day of having the car down without it affecting the family.   So I worked through the rain today but only after putting up a canopy to keep myself dry.   The 8° the weather network claimed it would be today seemed much colder too. 

But I have been putting off getting a few things done so decided to tackle the front pads/rotors and made an attempt at painting the calipers which wasn't the smartest thing to do in this weather. It meant sanding down the calipers to get all of the dust, rust and road dirt off.  Started on the driver side by using a wire wheel attached to my drill, I should have sanded it with some sand paper before painting it, but it was cold so it's not my best work. 

After that I hit it with a few coats of high heat red caliper paint, I do have some high heat clear but I'm still iffy about the colour. I had ordered a darker red with some silver sparkle but that hasn't come in yet so if the current red doesn't grow on me when we finally get warm weather I'll repaint the fronts when I do the rear pads & rotors.  Don't mind the over spray I cleaned most of it up. 

Got everything buttoned up and torqued down, so moved onto the passenger side.  While I was here I needed to replace an endlink bushing.  I run kartboy endlinks which means you only need to replace the bushing and not the whole endlink.  I will say right away the pedal feel is a night and day difference any soft or squishy feeling I had in the break pedal is gone at least that how it felt parked, won't be driving the car until tomorrow, hopefully allowing the paint to cure overnight. 

 

[KZJonny]

!!!