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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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pulled out my Nav last night to see if there were any issues with the wiring to my rear camera that would be causing my backup camera to not work but didn't find anything. has anyone else had back up camera issues? was really hoping not to spend $150 on the camera but it looks like that the next thing for me to check... GF's outback is starting to have similar issues so i guess I'll be pulling apart some trunks/tailgates soon
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Took the GT in for an alignment and they said the front camber bolts need replaced (it's pulling to the right). How would they go bad? I reused the originals. They told me I should have used new bolts. After a quote of $223.96, I'm doing it myself.
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That’s interesting. Most alignments shops will swap them out without a fee if you bring in new ones. Atleast in my experience with sears and pep boys, they typically will say “hey I got your camber close but you need new ones, bring some in and we can do a realignment (within the warranty period) for no charge.”
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Tires Plus wanted $42.99 for the bolt kits and $69.99 per side to install.

 

I called a Subaru dealer and they recommended aftermarket bolts since it is lowered. I would think that with the new KYB struts used (with Koni's) that the factory bolt would be fine.

Edited by Falcor
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Took the GT in for an alignment and they said the front camber bolts need replaced (it's pulling to the right). How would they go bad? I reused the originals. They told me I should have used new bolts.

 

FYI The service manual says it needs new nuts for the alignment bolts, not new bolts.

 

Did you already pay for an alignment? This shop is likely going to be hassle to get a good alignment out of if they are recommending bolts that aren't required.

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FYI The service manual says it needs new nuts for the alignment bolts, not new bolts.

 

Did you already pay for an alignment? This shop is likely going to be hassle to get a good alignment out of if they are recommending bolts that aren't required.

 

The alignment was done right after I installed the new suspension. I reused all the original nuts and bolts in the front (I came from Jeeps, don't know any better). I bought the 3 year option since I knew it would go back after the springs settled. I don't know why the bolt would need replaced.

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When I redid mine, I reused all my stock hardware as well unless the part came with new hardware. I didn't notice it until afterward in reading the service manual for another project that some of the hardware would be replaced. (It is starred in the service manual). The alignment shop should be able to get it realigned with the factory bolts. I think the aftermarket one are for extreme suspension changes or racing. You don't need that for 1" lowered car on the what essentially is on replacement struts and shocks.
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The alignment shop should be able to get it realigned with the factory bolts. I think the aftermarket one are for extreme suspension changes or racing. You don't need that for 1" lowered car on the what essentially is on replacement struts and shocks.

 

That's what I was thinking.

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FYI The service manual says it needs new nuts for the alignment bolts, not new bolts.

 

You are correct. I just checked the service manual and they use self locking nuts. They are probably crimp nuts like we use at work (mechanical crimp). They can loose the ability to hold if a bolt runs back and forth a few times.

 

All I need to do is get a couple crimp nuts then.

 

They said the alignment was correct, but I have a feeling the original crimp nut didn't have the strength to keep it from bumping out of alignment.

Edited by Falcor
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They recommend new nuts because they are self locking/oblong at the end to keep them from backing off. I reused mine after doing front wheel bearings.

 

Bolts shouldn't need to be replaced especially if they were just off/not seized. Unless they are trying to get the alignment in factory specs and you need more adjustment range to get there.

 

Did they give you an alignment sheet after they looked at it?

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pulled out my Nav last night to see if there were any issues with the wiring to my rear camera that would be causing my backup camera to not work but didn't find anything. has anyone else had back up camera issues? was really hoping not to spend $150 on the camera but it looks like that the next thing for me to check... GF's outback is starting to have similar issues so i guess I'll be pulling apart some trunks/tailgates soon

 

not 100% sure, but it might be due to the reverse switch? i don't know how exactly the whole thing matches together, but just a thought.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reverse-switch-280434.html

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Nothing wrong with that final alignment. Do you have adjustable rear LCA?

 

Added rear adjustable LCA's when the suspension was done. I have a feeling it was right when it left the shop and was bumped out of alignment with the old nuts reinstalled.

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not 100% sure, but it might be due to the reverse switch? i don't know how exactly the whole thing matches together, but just a thought.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reverse-switch-280434.html

 

possibly, it does kick to a blank screen with the reverse lines on it though so i have a feeling it's the camera. ill check out that thread though, thanks!

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Added rear adjustable LCA's when the suspension was done. I have a feeling it was right when it left the shop and was bumped out of alignment with the old nuts reinstalled.

 

When did it start pulling? Guess they didn't give you a sheet this time?

 

The nuts can't be that expensive, worth giving them a shot. Can try cross rotating the front tires see if the pull goes away/other direction. Not sure how old/worn they are. Or the steering wheel wasn't straight when they set toe if.

 

Rear camber seems a bit heavy on the negative side, but they're close so I'll assume they noticed the adjustable lower arms in the back.

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If they torqued the camber bolts properly, they shouldn't vibrate loose enough to change your alignment. I've had mine on and off 5+ times, plus being loosened for at least a dozen alignments, and they don't have any problems staying tight. That being said, I've had experience with low quality k-nuts (deformed lock nuts) that basically fall off after their first use, so its not a bad idea to replace them when you're supposed to.
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They showed me the printout and both fronts were around -1.5 ish (if I remember correctly). I went right to Subaru and got the nuts. Went ahead and got all 4 and will hopefully get them swapped out this weekend.
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If they torqued the camber bolts properly, they shouldn't vibrate loose enough to change your alignment. I've had mine on and off 5+ times, plus being loosened for at least a dozen alignments, and they don't have any problems staying tight. That being said, I've had experience with low quality k-nuts (deformed lock nuts) that basically fall off after their first use, so its not a bad idea to replace them when you're supposed to.

 

In some uses at work we run a bolt through them a few times after welded on and plated to open them up. Then they are basically a normal nut.

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