moral hazard Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Finally installed my 2013 cluster in my 2010 gen V. I performed the swap with the battery disconnected and the car completely dead (had the battery out for a while). I happened to have both keys with me in the car. Did not expect the car to start because I understand you need to have the keys reprogrammed to suit after this swap, but I thought I'd try starting anyway. To my surprise the car starts and drives without me having to take it in to the dealership. No idea why... Now I hope to find a way to get rid of the airbag light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 ^Nice! Does the temp gauge work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 (edited) Yep the temp started to go up after moving the car. I don't have any clue on where to start in terms of getting rid of the eyesight warnings (should have got one from a non eyesight model). But I have sent a PM to Brunzo about how it was possible to fix the airbag light (as per an older thread he has worked that out ). Hello, I have successfully done the cluster swap to color version. My car is 2010 Legacy Diesel Manual transmission. I have purchased color (MY13) cluster from CVT (Automatic transmission), reprogrammed it to Manual transmission and modified cluster airbag curcuit to work properly with car airbag system. If there are any Diesel legacy/outback owners from Europe, I could help them with cluster swap. I could also help with petrol clusters, but it can't be done remotely. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5760940&postcount=35 Edited September 28, 2019 by moral hazard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Fan Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Took the Leggy for a little road trip over the last 4 days.......no big trip just went down to Seattle for a visit with some friends. Vancouver to Seattle and back is about 600 Km, almost all freeway cruising.....did a little touring around in the city to various restaurants and and spent half a day in Woodinville doing some great wine tours and tasting. https://www.ste-michelle.com/ On the way home we did the old and scenic Chuckanut Drive (Hwy 11N)....one of the best winding scenic ocean drives ever! http://seattlerefined.com/travel/5-stops-to-make-on-washingtons-beautiful-chuckanut-drive Had a great trip and the car ran like a top the whole way....Average 30.6 MPG for the trip....Love it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I don't have any clue on where to start in terms of getting rid of the eyesight warnings (should have got one from a non eyesight model). Looking at the wiring diagram, the eyesight warning lights illuminate when you turn off those two features in a car with eyesight - looking at the switches, they just ground out a connection, but the connection they ground looks to be to the eyesight stereo camera control module, which then talks to the combination meter over the canbus, so I am thinking that's where the info has to come to turn those off. might be easier to just pull the combination meter apart and cover the two indicator lights with electrical tape... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 But I have sent a PM to Brunzo about how it was possible to fix the airbag light (as per an older thread he has worked that out). I'm curious about that one, too - in the 2010, the airbag light is illuminated by the airbag control module directly (it's the opposite of other lights, where the airbag light illuminates when the control module applies battery voltage to pin 12 on the connector to the combination meter) while in the 2013 it's done over the canbus from the control module... I wonder if you were to use an airbag control module from a 2013 if it would work? the connector is the same, and other system components are probably the same... don't know if I would want to do that, though, as the "what's the worst that could happen" is pretty bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I noticed today when I turning to the left that my car was making metal rubbing sound. With the windows down it sounds like it is coming from the front left. I will have to further diagnose it this weekend, but I suspect it might be the wheel bearing. Good thing is that I have multiple cars. It sort of seems like the brake shield. (I changed the rotors 1800 miles ago.) I jacked the front end of the car up and confirmed that it was the drivers front making noise, but it didn't feel like a bad wheel bearing when I was spinning the tire. I was going to bleed the brakes this weekend and look into it further, but it unexpectedly rained while I was doing maintenance on my Outback and I ran out of time. I jacked my GT up today to diagnose the problem. I went to remove the wheel and realized the lugs were loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I jacked my GT up today to diagnose the problem. I went to remove the wheel and realized the lugs were loose. That could have ended so badly! Thank goodness it didn't. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunzo Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Please move my previous message to this topic. Today i finished facelift MY14 navigation unit (Fujitsu ten) installation to my before facelift legacy MY10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 I'm curious about that one, too - in the 2010, the airbag light is illuminated by the airbag control module directly (it's the opposite of other lights, where the airbag light illuminates when the control module applies battery voltage to pin 12 on the connector to the combination meter) while in the 2013 it's done over the canbus from the control module... I wonder if you were to use an airbag control module from a 2013 if it would work? the connector is the same, and other system components are probably the same... don't know if I would want to do that, though, as the "what's the worst that could happen" is pretty bad... In case you don't happen upon it, I moved Brunzo's reply (per his request) over to the cluster transplant thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 The nearby station that sold e85 closed down a year ago or so. Been running pump gas since. Today I drove the 40 minutes each way to what is now the closest station with e85 and filled my tank and two jerry cans. The 20G compressor is just too big for 93 octane but it's PERFECT for e85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakja1 Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 I got a PDX Protune for Stage 2 with Racer X TMIC, GFB 100% recirc BPV, Invidia catted Jpipe and Q300 catback, AEM dry Filter on Friday and today I installed did this: Slightly used Rota D Force rims 18x9.5 +40 offset 265/35/18 Hankook Ventus Evo 2 tires Current suspension is oem shocks/struts with HR Drop Springs I bought slightly used Fortune 500 Coilovers, but havent installed yet Before with Volks 19x9.5 +37: Now: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 (edited) Not happy from yesterday. Edited September 30, 2019 by amusa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 I got a PDX Protune for Stage 2 with Racer X TMIC, GFB 100% recirc BPV, Invidia catted Jpipe and Q300 catback, AEM dry Filter on Friday and today I installed did this: Slightly used Rota D Force rims 18x9.5 +40 offset 265/35/18 Hankook Ventus Evo 2 tires Current suspension is oem shocks/struts with HR Drop Springs I bought slightly used Fortune 500 Coilovers, but havent installed yet Before with Volks 19x9.5 +37: Now: You having any rub issue on the strut with the 18x9.5 setup? That's exactly the specs I'm looking to get for a track wheel setup next year except +42, and I'm on Konis+H&R springs as well. Also, try hosting these images on Imgur instead. Photobucket is pure sh*t these days with hotlink blocking. 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Not happy from yesterday. Just gonna tease us and not tell the story...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Rear passenger side clunking. I'm thinking by rear right bilstein strut is failing. Thinking about buy Cusco struts. I've searched but I cannot seem to find anybody running them.... Has anybody here installed Cusco struts? If so, what do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) Just gonna tease us and not tell the story...? Wife went for training (45min to 1.5hr depends on traffic or a 15 mile drive). she call me and said I have a flat. Packed up my 1 year old son in my 2 door Benz and started to make my way there. The Legacy is parked in a Hotel pay public garage ($7). I pulled in and found the Legacy and park next to it. Got my air compressor out and started to put air in it. Nothing happen so I decided to use the Legacy jack and to get weight off the rim/tire. I started to put air in it and nothing happen. I decided to slide under the vehicle and that's how I found the inner tire split. I put the spare on (thank god I had my impact gun with me) and drove it back home with my son. My wife took the Benz home after her training. I took it to the shop (9.5miles) once my wife came home from her training. Got (2) brand new tires install (The other tire had a hole on the sidewall but did not penetrate all the way thru) with an oil change on top. I picked up the Legacy yesterday. After further investigating. The tire that exploded had a nail in it on top and my wife must of drove it on a flat. The other tire with a hole on the sidewall. Me and my other 2 friends could not figure that one out. I'm so tired and after work I need to put my dad SUV battery on the charger. That stupid HFL (Hand free Link) is causing the battery drainage. F'ing Johnson control and Acura/Honda's. I'm glad there is a lawsuit going around and I'm not paying $450 for a new module. I unplug it once and my parents got upset with me so I hooked it back up. Edited October 1, 2019 by amusa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Rear passenger side clunking. I'm thinking by rear right bilstein strut is failing. Thinking about buy Cusco struts. I've searched but I cannot seem to find anybody running them.... Has anybody here installed Cusco struts? If so, what do you think? I'm still trying to decide between the Cusco and Koni. The Cusco are a bit cheaper if you have to purchase new front donor struts for the Koni's. Mainly, I want to run the Cusco because they are plug and play, and no one else here has them. https://www.vividracing.com/cusco-touring-shock-absorber-set-subaru-legacy-sedan-0914-p-151386905.html# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 I'm still trying to decide between the Cusco and Koni. The Cusco are a bit cheaper if you have to purchase new front donor struts for the Koni's. Mainly, I want to run the Cusco because they are plug and play, and no one else here has them. https://www.vividracing.com/cusco-touring-shock-absorber-set-subaru-legacy-sedan-0914-p-151386905.html# Pretty much my reasoning also. I would probably do Koni inserts if I didn't live in the rust belt (which has reduced both my bilsteins and OEM struts to rust monsters). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 I was just in Minneapolis for a trade show last week at the convention center downtown. Nice place, but I bet the snow is why there are so many skyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexmed2002 Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 I threw on a Biggie Smalls (Notorious B.I.G.) Funko Pop on my dashboard since I'm a hip hop fanatic. Looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I was just in Minneapolis for a trade show last week at the convention center downtown. Nice place, but I bet the snow is why there are so many skyways. It also gets a little chilly there in the winter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Pretty much my reasoning also. I would probably do Koni inserts if I didn't live in the rust belt (which has reduced both my bilsteins and OEM struts to rust monsters).If you want Koni's, KYB donors are only $122 shipped for the pair from Rockauto... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 If you want Koni's, KYB donors are only $122 shipped for the pair from Rockauto... The Koni's run about $600 and the Cusco's run $656.48. If you add the donor struts the Koni's run $722. So, is $66 enough to sway someone one way or another? I'm waiting till Black Friday to decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Is Cusco lifetime warranty as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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