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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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woah, that's awesome

 

what are you using for the padding to go over the bare metal? did you salvage what was on there originally or are you using something else?

 

I salvaged what was on there, I need to figure out the flat part though. I am thinking about using some hose filled with hi density foam or something along those lines. That is what is holding me back currently.

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interesting--really interested to see how that comes out...i really want a flat bottom wheel but i'm not paying $500 for a damd one...

 

All 15+ WRX/STI wheels fit as well, you can find some from wrecks on ebay for as low as $150. Just need the back cover as well which is like a $15 part. Then reuse your airbag, wheel controls, and bottom trim and you're good.

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All 15+ WRX/STI wheels fit as well, you can find some from wrecks on ebay for as low as $150. Just need the back cover as well which is like a $15 part. Then reuse your airbag, wheel controls, and bottom trim and you're good.
The 2010 had the round airbag, unless I am mistaken it's not a direct swap.

 

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The 2010 had the round airbag, unless I am mistaken it's not a direct swap.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Didn't see he was 2010. In that case, you can still use it if you can source either a 2012+ airbag or if the VA wheel comes with an airbag, you can use the airbag and trim from that.

 

yeah, i've looked at that option but it's gonna come out to $500+ for a wheel and airbag, and at that point might as well just get the damd one. i'm a cheap bastard, so neither of those options particularly appeal.

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yeah, i've looked at that option but it's gonna come out to $500+ for a wheel and airbag, and at that point might as well just get the damd one. i'm a cheap bastard, so neither of those options particularly appeal.
So far I am into this one for about $40. And a few hours. All said and done I might get close to $100 with the new leather cover, and having someone install it, if i dont.

 

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So far I am into this one for about $40. And a few hours. All said and done I might get close to $100 with the new leather cover, and having someone install it, if i dont.

 

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that's considerably more up my alley

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Didn't see he was 2010. In that case, you can still use it if you can source either a 2012+ airbag or if the VA wheel comes with an airbag, you can use the airbag and trim from that.

 

Can't use airbag trim. Round airbag cover has different mounting.

So cant use MY14 airbag cover with MY10 airbag.

But if you have MY14 airbag, then you can use MY16 airbag cover and swap latest gen. steering wheel (satellite switch needs resistance resoldering).

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Can't use airbag trim. Round airbag cover has different mounting.

So cant use MY14 airbag cover with MY10 airbag.

But if you have MY14 airbag, then you can use MY16 airbag cover and swap latest gen. steering wheel (satellite switch needs resistance resoldering).

 

I meant the airbag and trim from the STI wheel.

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Also, on that topic: installed my Wangan SPL VM Levorg wheel on my '12 over the weekend. The wheel itself, I absolutely love. I liked my DAMD wheel a lot, but the Wangan wheel fits with my whole Wangan aesthetic, and the actual wheel itself feels much lighter. I also like how you can see the red and the backside Wangan logo through the front window. I think I'm eventually going to seek out an STI airbag, as I'm not very happy with the bottom trim fitment, but it's fine for now.

 

Also, the Wangan wheel came with black paddles which I decided to use. Interestingly enough, even though the paddles and plug are identical, the purple plug loom that came with the black paddles would not function on my car. It basically had no function in manual mode. So I switch the black paddles over to the green loom that my factory paddles came with, and it worked perfectly.

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Installed the STI center caps and subframe brace. FYI, the subframe/diff need support when you pull the bolts out. Ask me how I found out [emoji52].

 

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I had my car up on a QuickJack lift when I installed mine, but I don't think I expressly had the rear subframe supported, and nothing shifted on mine when I removed the bolts.

 

Either way, how you liking it? Feel any difference?

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I had my car up on a QuickJack lift when I installed mine, but I don't think I expressly had the rear subframe supported, and nothing shifted on mine when I removed the bolts.

 

 

 

Either way, how you liking it? Feel any difference?

 

 

 

Seat of the pants feeling is telling me it is flatter in the corners. Now, that could also be a placebo effect. [emoji1]

 

 

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Continued the work on the GT. Installed the new to me drivers side mirror, much better.

 

Also attempted again to track down the dash rattle that has been bugging me pretty much since I bought it. I pulled the bottom of the dash apart and added some padding to different areas that I found could use it. If it rattles on the way to work tomorrow I will not be happy. [emoji848][emoji6]

 

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Update: On the drive in this morning I didn't hear one rattle from the dash. Maybe I finally killed the rattle. Also, the mirror glass in the housing I installed is distorted, so I'm going to see how hard it is to swap the original mirror into this housing.

 

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Edited by Falcor
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Fixed the mirror. I swapped both the mirror and the plate it popped into to be safe. When I pulled the mirror glass out it didn’t look warped, so I played it safe just in case that the back plate was tweaked in the wreck the Outback was in.

 

 

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I did a bad thing... Helped to pull out the truck from mud, forgot to turn VDC off and burned my clutch. The clutch seems to be not dead completely as it still drives and RPMs do not jump with gentle acceleration. And the car smells...

 

And another fail - the mirrors i purchased were not genuine (but new). Installation failed as the mirror body has a gap with mirror frame and it shakes during drive. Will return it back and look for used genuine mirrors.

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And another fail - the mirrors i purchased were not genuine (but new). Installation failed as the mirror body has a gap with mirror frame and it shakes during drive. Will return it back and look for used genuine mirrors.

 

I had the same problem with the gap. I never tried a test drive though. Ebay or a salvage yard may be your best bet.

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I did a bad thing... Helped to pull out the truck from mud, forgot to turn VDC off and burned my clutch. The clutch seems to be not dead completely as it still drives and RPMs do not jump with gentle acceleration. And the car smells...

 

You likely accelerated the wear on your clutch pulling a truck out of the mud, but your clutch was probably worn to begin with.

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Clutch was replaced around 20k miles ago.

It looked from aside that car just stands still and nothing happens, as vdc prevents rotation of wheels. When the wheels start to rotate, vdc just decreases the engine rpm, wheels loose power and stop. I played with clutch pedal to prevent stop the engine and it made the clutch slip all time. If VDC is off - the clutch blocks the gearbox with the flywheel and all power would go to the wheels (it would just slip on the ground all the time). The car still smells, I will replace the clutch to be ready for winter joy. :)

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what did I do to my car? change spark plugs... and i did it without raising the engine...

 

air intake track has to come off

power steering pump overflow has to be unbolted

MAF unplugged

 

driver side can be done without removing battery and AC line has to be un clipped and lifted up slightly. Did not put OEM back in as at $18 each, nope nada,, went with regular NGK iridium and the car runs great

Edited by YeuEmMaiMai
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