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well....crap. please help


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Let the car come up to normal temp, haven't seen another misfire event, but the car is seriously lacking power. Gonna run another compression check probably on Tuesday. There's also an,awful rattle that i feel is,coming from the throw out bearing area. Its definitely not valve chatter, and its not a heat shield.

 

Also, any tricks on burping the power steering? I really don't want to get under the car with a mityvac and pump fluid in from the steering box

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Power steering - you should be able to get out the air by lifting the wheels off the ground, start engine then move the wheel from end to end to push out the air from the cylinders.

 

I'm just worried that there's something wrong with the timing somewhere still if you have a good leak-down test but bad compression.

 

The cam sprocket keys are hopefully in place too. A drifting cam gear would really be a time bomb.

 

But it's good that it did start finally. And I hope that you didn't forget a rag in the intake manifold, that could be a culprit for low power as well. Happened to another member here.

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You dont need to unmarry the AP to be able to use BtSsm (its just monitoring, logging and Subaru's LV and DTC reading software). Just unplug the AP and get BtSsm talking to your car via hardwire or bluetooth dongles (BtSsm dongle, OBDLink LX/MX, VAG Com/Kline Cable, Tactrix OPv2, etc).

 

Then again, you should be able to monitor and log all you need via the AP too.

OCVs, OSVs, TGVs, EGR steps, per-cylinder misfires, knock sum, FKC, FLKC, DAM/IAM, etc.

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I would definitely do some logging now. It will save you time I think.

 

And you should repeat your leakdown test when the engine has warmed up. I've retrieved on both of our cars excellent leakdown test results done on a cold engine; and yet, each car had an exhaust valve with zero clearance!

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Thanks Bean, another guy offered his to me for free, so I wont need the cubby any longer. But I'll definitely take you up on the cable and donut gasket! What's the damage for all that shipped?

 

Cool. Just sent you a PM.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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and just for kicks, anyone know what a bone stock 05 OBXT lim. 5MT with 153k is going for these days? once I get everything right, it'll be up for sale. I have maintenance records since day one. I just got the car off the original owner. bone stock except for the TSK3, Spec clutch, and removed oil screens. super clean car with brand new tires (20miles on them), new windshield, all new wheel bearings, and the air bag recall done. I was thinking of listing it at 8500obo. I'd consider dropping the price for one of you guys though if any of you wanted it.
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You will NOT regret that app. I am telling you. Here is the current gauge layout I use on my phone.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258570&d=1511205835

 

Think I'll be getting this app when I change phones to something non-Blackberry. And, look at you, loading pictures like a boss. :) Well done!

 

OP, congrats on the start/run. Know it was a royal PITA, but it should progress from here.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Thanks SBT, I need to find the cause of this effing rattle now. Im thinking TOB but I loved it up nicely when i put it back on. With the TSK3 on it, it had minimal axial play. Head scratcher on that one. After i get the tactrix cable and load up BtSsm, is there a specific parameter you all would like me to log?

 

Also, thanks max for tye vote of confidence on the price. If I could get 8k for it, id be happy. It would fund my next project

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Thanks SBT, I need to find the cause of this effing rattle now. Im thinking TOB but I loved it up nicely when i put it back on. With the TSK3 on it, it had minimal axial play. Head scratcher on that one. After i get the tactrix cable and load up BtSsm, is there a specific parameter you all would like me to log?

 

Also, thanks max for tye vote of confidence on the price. If I could get 8k for it, id be happy. It would fund my next project

 

Essentially what I am showing on my screenshot. Specifically, I would be interested in seeing your long term fuel trims, fuel correction, afr, misfires per cylinder, vvt L/R angles (these two essentially tell you if your avcs are working properly---they should be in sync at all times), and fkc. Oh and timing of course. Timing at idle should be around 12.5 deg iirc for a manual trans.

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Better to be careful and be patient.

 

Scariest was when I changed valve guides on an engine and hadn't cleaned the stem on the valves enough so that they stuck for a moment closing with a noise. It was on a Volvo B18 so it could deal with a lot of abuse without damage. Car worked for many years after that.

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back to the grind now! I'm home again and ready to get this car rolling. started the car up and brought her up to temp. then did another compression check. still shitty. cyl1 was at 100psi, and cyl3 looked half decent as well. 2 and 4 were again stupid low with cyl4 being 30psi. this is obviously causing misfire events in cyl2&4. there is also a nice rattle that starts after the car is warmed up. I feel like it has something to do with the clutch (TOB? rattling disk? loose pressure plate? I have no idea). I still feel like it's a timing issue, I just can't figure out how.

 

so now that I have BtSsm and a VagCom, what sort of logs would you guys like to see to help me diagnose this issue?

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Does the compression change when you inject oil into the cylinders?

 

If not then I'd suspect that you have valve problems and you have to take off the heads for further examinations.

 

Maybe get one of these to inspect the cylinders without removing the heads: https://www.amazon.com/BlueFire-Android-Endoscope-Phones-Function/dp/B013HZCYXK

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