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well....crap. please help


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Just like replacing the plugs, take off the engine mount nuts and raise the engine, put the nuts back on and set the engine down. Improves access to the plug holes immediately. ;)

 

I personally like using the crank with the LDT connected to observe valve action...is it where it should be... and to point-out that I'm coming up on TDC. You'll know when you're at TDC because the pressure will equalize, and the strain will diminish. Just don't let go of the wrench on the crank... :)

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huh?!? never thought of raising the engine to get to the plugs :p certainly makes sense though. do you use a cherry picker or just a floor jack to raise the engine? block of wood on the oil pan perhaps?

 

Yeah, block of wood on the oil pan and just jack it up.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Perhaps a dumb question, but is it possible that the cam sprockets have been removed in the past, and reinstalled incorrectly, giving you an inaccurate reading?

However, whoever would have done that would have the same issue getting it timed.

I apologize it that’s the dumbest thing you’ve ever heard

 

 

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the only dumb question is the one never asked!

 

your scenario is very doubtful since the car was running when i got it. but i'm about to pull the belt right now to double check the cam sprockets.

 

side note: can anyone tell me what page of the vacay pics the leakdown test procedure is on? i cant seem to find it. i just want to see where the timing marks should be when each cylinder is at TDC

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My dad (Honda, Yamaha, tohatsu, master tech, diesel tech, marine master tech, airplane mechanic, yada yada) seems to think that its timing as well. The only other remote possibility is that intake valves are stuck shut or at least partially stuck shut. That would explain the low compression and the good leakdown. If no air is being drawn in to the cylinder, then no volume of air to compress. I just think its highly unlikely that all cylinders have stuck intake valves since all the compression numbers were low
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Yeah, block of wood on the oil pan and just jack it up.

 

This. Don't block under the crank and jack, block under the oil pan. Undo the pitch stopper as well if you need to raise it more than the bottom of the bolts - though that's unlikely. That extra 3/4"-1" of additional space works wonders.

 

And, are you opening the throttle plate when you're compression testing? No air, or limited amount of air, and...like you stated, not enough air to compress.

 

Also, if the valves were stuck shut or partially open, you'd have bigger problems to deal with, e.g., bent or cracked valves, borked valve guides, cam issues, etc.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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This is now bugging the shit out of me--you too, I'm sure :lol:. You pulled the motor to do the work?

 

Ground straps in place? Positive that engine harness is hooked up and all connectors hooked up? You reinstalled the fuel pump fuse (if you ever pulled it)? Just spit balling here...

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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yes, yes, yes, and yes.

 

I drove the car in to my garage. pulled the engine, did the work, reinstalled the engine, hooked everything back up, now it wont start.

 

I tested for, and have, spark and fuel. but the compression is just too low for it to fire up. low compression can only be caused by something mechanical, not electrical. if I had decent compression and the car didn't start, it would be a different story.

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You installed all buckets back in their original locations, yes?

 

Resealed cam baskets with RTV?

 

New cam seals?

 

yes, yes, and yes.

 

I did one side at a time to be sure I didn't mix anything up. I laid out all the components EXACTLY as they sit on the engine when I removed them.

 

I did clean off the old RTV and used new stuff on the cam baskets as well as used new OEM cam seals on all four. <-- that will only cause an oil leak though, not destroy compression, right?

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Diagnostic for engine starting failure.

 

 

  1. Check for fuel amount.
  2. Inspection of starter motor circuit. <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-58, STARTER MOTOR CIRCUIT, Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure.>
  3. Inspection of ECM power supply and ground line. <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-62, CHECK POWER SUPPLY AND GROUND LINE OF ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM), Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure.>
  4. Inspection of ignition control system. <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-64, IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM, Diagnostics for EngineStarting Failure.>
  5. Inspection of fuel pump circuit. <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-67, FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT, Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure.>
  6. Inspection of fuel injector circuit. <Ref. to EN(H4DOTC)(diag)-69, FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT, Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure.>

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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