JazzAvi8r Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 hmm..never thought of the immobilizer. I'll be sure to have all three sets of keys in the car the next time I crank it over. after I put the timing belt back on and the plugs back in, i'll take a short video of it trying to start and post a link here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 ISTR there was something in the FSM about resetting the ECU after R&R, otherwise the injectors would not fire, even with fuel present. Are you seeing any codes at all? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 no codes. checked all system parameters before I even tried to start the car with my scan tool and everything checks out ok. I know the plugs and injectors are firing. I tested for that already with a spark checker and when I pulled the plugs, they were wet with fuel. I do have a fuel pressure tester and an injector impedence tester, but based on the plugs, I know I have fuel getting in to the chambers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Throwing ideas out here When you installed the new head bolts did you do the propper bolt stretching procedure? Have you tried starting fluid when starting can you hear and see that the throttle is opening and closing are all hoses back properly eg there is no open vacuum leaks or brake booster hoses etc check with vac gauge when starting if the plugs are wet you are flooding it. Have you tried disconnecting the maf or map sensor it should go into limp mode and ignore values from them and you may be able to get it started Did you check that you have good fuel pressure Try pushing and holding the gas pedal at max, there is something where it wont give any more gas because it thinks its flooded Also try disconnecting battery, wait a min, unlock car with remote do not hook any scan tools up to it and then try starting it. My wifes car and my car have had issues after pulling the battery and it had to relearn things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Try pushing and holding the gas pedal at max, there is something where it wont give any more gas because it thinks its flooded On our cars, if you do WOT while cranking the engine, it cuts fuel completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black94Snake Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 cam and crank position sensors are appropriately plugged in and secured. I've got fuel and spark. just bad compression Absolutely bad compression. My 110k mile 05 pushes 130psi per hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Here's a video I just took. (Sorry if posting links to youtube isn't allowed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 And #2 as promised Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 And is the crankshaft sprocket in the correct position and haven't moved on the crankshaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Listening to the cranking on the second video indicates an uneven compression situation so I'd go back and make sure that everything is correct and that the correct camshaft is on the correct side as well. Just about everything when it comes to timing is now on the table, even the weirdest reasons and causes like the cat swapped your valves when you weren't looking. And no forgotten rags somewhere during the installation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 The buzzing sound you're hearing is likely the fuel pressure regulator. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Yeah, I'm about to the point of pulling the motor again just to take everything apart and put it back together. Here's a pic of how I laid put the parts after i took the head off. I made Damn sure I didnt mix anything up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 wow. That is really a tough one now. Did you do a leakdown test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 That's what I was hoping you'd try next, weren't you going to do a leakdown test where you put the engine into TDC for each cylinder with reference only to the crankshaft position? I can't think of anything else it would be other than valve timing and you could confirm or rule out that possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Here's a video I just took. (Sorry if posting links to youtube isn't allowed) Links are fine as long as it isn't a FS thread. You can also embed the video by removing the s from https Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Agree with Nils - from your video she's making compression on at least one cylinder, but not as much if any on the others. Do the leakdown before you tear it down so you don't miss something that you'd just have to tear it down again to fix/sort. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 And make sure you didn't swap cams between the heads too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 The buzzing sound you're hearing is likely the fuel pressure regulator. 100% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 And make sure you didn't swap cams between the heads too. Kind of hard to do on a S-AVCS. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Leakdown numbers are earlier in the thread. Only one head was done at a time so no possibility of swapping intake cams or,exhaust cams. Already verified intakes are on top and exhausts are on bottom I have not done a leakdown test using only the crank marks yet, but will get to that tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 i posted some more pics on the original post. nothing special, but just to give you an idea of what the motor looked like when i pulled it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Just did the leakdown test using the marks: Cyl1- 99/99; 0% Cyl2- 94/99; 4.x% Cyl3- 100/100; 0% Cyl4- 92/97; 4.x% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Just did another compression check as well. Same results as the first time 1-75psi 2-60psi 3-55psi 4-40psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Those leakdown numbers are just fine. You compression numbers are low indeed. Still though, this is crazy. Let's summarize what you've checked: --all four spark plugs receive sparks, correct? --all four injectors are getting fuel --timing marks are fine --cam sprokets are properly installed on the camshafts --leakdown turns out fine What's left now?? --perhaps reconfirm that timing is correct by actually counting the number of teeth between pulleys. See FSM for details --immobilizer working fine? --somehow the heads are not torqued properly? or something wrong with the gaskets used? resulting in a poor seal between the block and the heads, lowering compression numbers? But then you'd have coolant seeping in no? Just a wild guess You sound like you know what you're doing and appear meticulous. So don't give up. You'll figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 interesting. This guy had a similar experience: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121513-no-compression-after-head-gasket-install/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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