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well....crap. please help


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Perhaps xt2005bonbon would send you a copy of his valve lash computation spreadsheet ;)

 

Ah I don't have it handy. It's on a different computer.

 

In any case yeah, you don't even have to pull the engine to check your valve clearance. Looking forward to hearing the results though. And as others said already, if it checks out good, then time to pull the engine unfortunately.

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edit: For reference, the last cold, dry, compression test was 50psi on Cyl2 and 25psi on Cyl4. I honestly expected Cyl4 to have near zero clearance on both exhaust valves. its interesting how the cyl2 has tighter valves, but higher compression....

 

Cyl2: I1=.004"/.102mm (out of spec)

Cyl2: I2=.006"/.152mm

Cyl2: E1=.0015"/.038mm (out of spec)

Cyl2: E2=.005"/.127mm (out of spec)

 

Cyl4: I1=.008"/.203mm

Cyl4: I2=.007"/.178mm

Cyl4: E1=.005"/.127mm (out of spec)

Cyl4: E2=.007"/.178mm (out of spec)

 

ME(H4DOTC)-2 states clearances should be between .0055" - .0095" for intake; .0118" - .0158" for exhaust

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yeah and in metrics, fsm says

0.20 +.04/-.06 mm for intake

0.35 +/-.05 mm for exhaust.

 

So yeah, a lot of your clearances are pretty tight which would explain low compression especially with a warm engine I'd imagine (since exhaust valve stems are supposedly stretching a bit in length when hot, which in turn decreases clearance too).

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OK. here it is. I just revised it just a bit to make it more user friendly. Did the editing on a chromebook and saved as .xlsx. So, not sure how it'd look in excel. Hopefully, it'll be fine. let me know.

 

Note: in order to upload the file here, I had to change the file extension from .xlsx to .pdf. So before you open the file, make sure you change the extension back.

 

Note 2: you will see that you can actually edit the target clearances. You will see that I selected slightly looser clearances. That's what I did for my cars. You don't have to do this.

valve clearance calculator subaru outback xt.pdf

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OP, since you are planning to do the work with the engine in place, be careful not to rush. For instance, the exhaust buckets may fall off when you remove the exhaust camshaft. But if you take the cam off very slowly, they should stay in place. What I did though before I even removed that camshaft, I put some paint marks on the buckets just to be safe.
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Nah, I'm pulling the engine again and will do this work won the stand. It doesnt take but 3 hours to yank the engine, and frankly, its so much easier to put the intake manifold on and button up all the vacuum lines while the engine is out.

 

Btw, earlier in the thread, soneone mentioned something about a possible vacuum leak. I found the culprit. The vac line going into the wastegate actuator is broken. Easy enough fix, just thought i would point that out.

 

Finally, this car is on the back burner this weekend. I'm doing a EJ205 swap on a WRX wagon this weekend to make a little cash. As part of my payment, i get to keep the old engine that is making some really funny noises. Anyone know if there's any money to be had for this motor? Heads? Case halves?

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Good to see that you’ve got it sorted! I’m still scratching my head at how it drove fine into the garage for new head gaskets only to get CEL and tight valve lash. Is this a common thing after head gasket replacement??

 

It shouldn't be related. But the valve problems may not have been seen due to the larger issue with the head gaskets.

 

I would recommend to check the valve clearance on the other side as well to make sure that it's inside specs there.

453747.png
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Oh, and as for measuring the buckets, I need to go buy a micrometer. The micrometer I have won't get close enough to measure those. I bought it when i was working on a 2stroke diesel

 

The bucket size should be printed inside the bucket (e.g. 489 which means 4.89 mm). After so many miles, it may be ever so slightly off from that thickness. But from my experience (one engine @ 73k and one engine @ 140k), the thickness barely changed if at all. But yeah, you should still get a micrometer.

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IIRC, none of my used buckets were still at the "printed" spec on the bucket. I would absolutely measure them, especially since a decent tool is probably what, $30?

 

Edit: they weren't TOO far off, but still.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Before buying any buckets, keep track of the existing buckets and see if it's enough to rearrange them and limit the number of buckets you need to buy.

 

Also you might want to message boxkita to see if he wants to swap / provide any buckets at a discount. I think I sent him 20-30 buckets all measured and marked along with a bunch of other stuff from my part out.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

well, after a two week hiatus on this car, I'm finally back at it. Did the engine swap on that WRX. took me all day because I had to Frankenstein his motor to get it to work: swapping out emissions pieces, changing manifolds, resoldering some wiring to replace broken connectors, deleting A/C, etc. wasn't too bad of a project. got the guy in and out in under 24 hours.

 

then after cleaning up the garage, I pulled the engine on the OBXT again -- I must be getting really good at it. it only took an hour and 10 minutes this time around!

 

Gonna double check the valve lash now that the engine is out. then I'll pull the belt, pull the cams, measure the buckets, do some math, order new buckets, put this mofo back together, and get her sold!

26001330_2465260340366049_4898569921226718810_n.jpg.b81c89402b4efb82c1e06202c5431a3d.jpg

26112168_2465260367032713_7989015960306684918_n.jpg.d23dae1fd4e21a7147b316351d8370d8.jpg

26116104_2467924400099643_8242890730702875871_o.thumb.jpg.09052d532ab7aaa4fd06a234e916c6be.jpg

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