CapnJack Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 I did buy a TYC for $86 for my beater 3.0R sedan. I replaced that radiator proactively. The plastic top and bottom mold components seemed 100% identical to the original Denso labeled OEM one. I did consider Koyo, but it was almost twice the cost at the TYC. And A Koyo at $140 vs Subaru OEM for only $100 more....I went with OEM. It's probably unnecessary, though. If I was buying a 200k 3.0R, (or 5EAT GT), I'd proactively replace the radiator. Or I'd install an aftermarket tranny cooler. These things are time bombs, in my opinion. Interesting the OEM was a Denso! I think I'll go that route. You can get a Denso for $110 from Amazon. It would be tough to justify the extra $130 for the Subaru sticker. OP - The price of my car just went up another $110. Better hurry before I do any more maintenance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Since y'all are hi-jacking my thread....Rock Auto has the OEM Desno for $98.89 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,legacy,3.0l+h6,1443523,cooling+system,radiator,2172 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Interesting the OEM was a Denso! I think I'll go that route. You can get a Denso for $110 from Amazon. It would be tough to justify the extra $130 for the Subaru sticker. OP - The price of my car just went up another $110. Better hurry before I do any more maintenance! Ah, NO! But thanks anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Since y'all are hi-jacking my thread....Rock Auto has the OEM Desno for $98.89 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,legacy,3.0l+h6,1443523,cooling+system,radiator,2172 Not hi-jacking, just helping you with maintenance and parts costs on the car you are about to buy! Shipping brought it up to the same price as Amazon's price. Prime for the win! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Thanks for the feedback Sunny.... If all goes well, this is will be in my driveway tonight: http://www.hondaofhackettstown.com/used/Subaru/2009-Subaru-Legacy-a28f4ee50a0e0ae7513b8f8517c9fb8b.htm Odd that it's still listed at the original asking price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 In all fairness, you are paying $3,600 + $500 = $4100 for the car from the dealership. Calling it $3600 is just buying into the sales tactic with doc fees. I agree and why I recommended he have the fees waived. However my understand came to be the fees are not dealer fees but fees the dealer collects and pays to other entities (such as the government). If that's the case then I consider them to be like taxes and not part of the vehicle purchase price. If it's not the case then yeah the true cost of the car is purchase price + fees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 I agree and why I recommended he have the fees waived. However my understand came to be the fees are not dealer fees but fees the dealer collects and pays to other entities (such as the government). If that's the case then I consider them to be like taxes and not part of the vehicle purchase price. If it's not the case then yeah the true cost of the car is purchase price + fees. Cannot get the fees waived. I could ask, but then probably lose the car. The fees are for the dealership to do the processing and title work and the registration. it is BS, but other dealers do it. when I picked up our 15OB, we got hit with a $130 doc fee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 I did buy a TYC for $86 for my beater 3.0R sedan. I replaced that radiator proactively. The plastic top and bottom mold components seemed 100% identical to the original Denso labeled OEM one. I did consider Koyo, but it was almost twice the cost at the TYC. And A Koyo at $140 vs Subaru OEM for only $100 more....I went with OEM. It's probably unnecessary, though. If I was buying a 200k 3.0R, (or 5EAT GT) with an original radiator, I'd proactively replace the radiator. Or I'd install an aftermarket tranny cooler. These things are time bombs, in my opinion. tranny coolers are not OEM from Subaru? Does it makes sense to both a replacement RAD and a tranny cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Cannot get the fees waived. I could ask, but then probably lose the car. The fees are for the dealership to do the processing and title work and the registration. it is BS, but other dealers do it. when I picked up our 15OB, we got hit with a $130 doc fee In some states the doc fee is illegal and in others it is required. Dealers always find a way to make extra money when they can. They either raise the price of the car or the price of their administrative fees. In the end it's all the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 tranny coolers are not OEM from Subaru? Does it makes sense to both a replacement RAD and a tranny cooler? They are, but subaru uses part of the radiator as the trans cooler. This has been done for years in GM, Ford, Chrysler, Subaru, etc. What Dispach is recommending is to replace the radiator and add a separate trans cooler thus eliminating the combination one used in the OEM radiator. This segregates the trans fluid from the coolant completely so they can't mix like his did if the radiator fails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 They are, but subaru uses part of the radiator as the trans cooler. This has been done for years in GM, Ford, Chrysler, Subaru, etc. What Dispach is recommending is to replace the radiator and add a separate trans cooler thus eliminating the combination one used in the OEM radiator. This segregates the trans fluid from the coolant completely so they can't mix like his did if the radiator fails. Solid Copy CPNJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Now I am concerned about the radiator and the transmission with regards to purchasing this car..........OOOOOOOOO c'mon, man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Now I am concerned about the radiator and the transmission with regards to purchasing this car..........OOOOOOOOO c'mon, man! I have news for you...we are all going to die...eventually! --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 18, 2017 Moderators Share Posted July 18, 2017 Just replace the long block and drivetrain when you get the car and you should be good for at least several months of worry free ownership! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Cannot get the fees waived. I could ask, but then probably lose the car. The fees are for the dealership to do the processing and title work and the registration. it is BS, but other dealers do it. when I picked up our 15OB, we got hit with a $130 doc fee Unless the dealer is collecting the fee to pass on to some other entity then it's my opinion you're not paying $3,600 for the car but $3,600 + fees. Therefore the selling price is not $3,600 making the deal more risky and I'm not sure I would want to do it (I think with fees the total would be $4,100). Only you can decide if that's acceptable for you but that's a different topic than what you're paying for the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Have we beaten this dead horse long enough?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Have we beaten this dead horse long enough?? NO, we have not. My thread and my horse...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Now I am concerned about the radiator and the transmission with regards to purchasing this car..........OOOOOOOOO c'mon, man! Don't forget the starter, alternator, shocks, springs, electronics, wheel bearings, power steering pump, power steering rack, ball joints, tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, CV axles, drive shaft, fuel pump, water pump, throttle body, MAF sensor, camshaft position sensor, oil control valves, center differential, rear differential, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, air conditioning compressor, heater core, master cylinder, calipers, brake hoses, coolant hoses, battery, power windows, power seats, navigation unit, radio, speakers, HVAC controls, heated seats, power mirrors, catalytic converters, mufflers, mid pipe, oxygen sensors, and windshield wiper motor. None of the items listed above have replacement intervals on them that would have been replaced in the 60+ services. They are run to fail or inspected randomly during periodic inspections and are expensive to repair. If the car is due for tires, its also due for an alignment IMHO. If the suspension has never been replaced, its overdue. That's about $2,000 right there since this car has the Bilstein suspension on it unless the previous owner replaced it with something cheaper. You are buying a car with 190K on it. It is what it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Don't forget the starter, alternator, shocks, springs, electronics, wheel bearings, power steering pump, power steering rack, ball joints, tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, CV axles, drive shaft, fuel pump, water pump, throttle body, MAF sensor, camshaft position sensor, oil control valves, center differential, rear differential, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, air conditioning compressor, heater core, master cylinder, calipers, brake hoses, coolant hoses, battery, power windows, power seats, navigation unit, radio, speakers, HVAC controls, heated seats, power mirrors, catalytic converters, mufflers, mid pipe, oxygen sensors, and windshield wiper motor. None of the items listed above have replacement intervals on them that would have been replaced in the 60+ services. They are run to fail or inspected randomly during periodic inspections and are expensive to repair. If the car is due for tires, its also due for an alignment IMHO. If the suspension has never been replaced, its overdue. That's about $2,000 right there since this car has the Bilstein suspension on it unless the previous owner replaced it with something cheaper. You are buying a car with 190K on it. It is what it is... Now that's a proper troll response to kick me in the head! Well done sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvnmaniac Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Just buy the thing already so i can stop SMH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 They are, but subaru uses part of the radiator as the trans cooler. This has been done for years in GM, Ford, Chrysler, Subaru, etc. What Dispach is recommending is to replace the radiator and add a separate trans cooler thus eliminating the combination one used in the OEM radiator. This segregates the trans fluid from the coolant completely so they can't mix like his did if the radiator fails. I thought there was another benefit to the integrated system - increased speed to drive temp of the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Thanks for the feedback Sunny.... If all goes well, this is will be in my driveway tonight: http://www.hondaofhackettstown.com/used/Subaru/2009-Subaru-Legacy-a28f4ee50a0e0ae7513b8f8517c9fb8b.htm Soooo....what was in your driveway last night? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Soooo....what was in your driveway last night? Not a Subaru Legacy. --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Don't forget the starter, alternator, shocks, springs, electronics, wheel bearings, power steering pump, power steering rack, ball joints, tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, CV axles, drive shaft, fuel pump, water pump, throttle body, MAF sensor, camshaft position sensor, oil control valves, center differential, rear differential, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, air conditioning compressor, heater core, master cylinder, calipers, brake hoses, coolant hoses, battery, power windows, power seats, navigation unit, radio, speakers, HVAC controls, heated seats, power mirrors, catalytic converters, mufflers, mid pipe, oxygen sensors, and windshield wiper motor. None of the items listed above have replacement intervals on them that would have been replaced in the 60+ services. They are run to fail or inspected randomly during periodic inspections and are expensive to repair. If the car is due for tires, its also due for an alignment IMHO. If the suspension has never been replaced, its overdue. That's about $2,000 right there since this car has the Bilstein suspension on it unless the previous owner replaced it with something cheaper. You are buying a car with 190K on it. It is what it is... SO.... 1) I understand and have really been tongue and cheek with my subtle troll responses. My toyota has 257k on it and had to replace original wear parts and major items along the way over the last 4 years and 60,000 miles of ownership I get it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS4Drew Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Unless the dealer is collecting the fee to pass on to some other entity then it's my opinion you're not paying $3,600 for the car but $3,600 + fees. Therefore the selling price is not $3,600 making the deal more risky and I'm not sure I would want to do it (I think with fees the total would be $4,100). Only you can decide if that's acceptable for you but that's a different topic than what you're paying for the car. Sunny: 2) You are correct: it is really $4,100 for the car, not including the TTL I have to pay for PA being $228 taxes and $125 fees to the state and plates.... I asked about the doc fee last night on my way to the dealership and they were like that's what we always charge for a car transaction. I bought my last 3 cars with no doc fee packed into the purchase price, taxes or state fees....$500 for what, I told them I was not buying the car if you could not tell me where and why by line item I am being charged the $500 doc fee So the 196K car with bad tires and a bad cat is available for purchase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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