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Looking to buy a high mileage 2009 Subaru Legacy 3.0R Limited


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So I just got back from the dealership after a test drive of the Subaru. It is fast, smooth, tight, and quiet engine and transmission. Everything works and the car shows its 60 Subaru service appointments and the care of the previous and only owner.

 

I offered the dealership $4,500 and they came down to $5,300. Not sure I'd go that high considering it'll be $600 for their fees and another $300 to pay the taxes once I register it in PA.

 

I think I'd go as high as $4,800 for the car, but it is as advertised. Would I be over-paying for the car?????

 

I hate those fees and negotiate them out of any car purchase (which technically results in a discount of the sales price by the fee amount). Tell them to waive the fees and you'll pay their $5,300 asking price. Otherwise tell them they'll need to discount the price by the fee amount.

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I hate those fees and negotiate them out of any car purchase (which technically results in a discount of the sales price by the fee amount). Tell them to waive the fees and you'll pay their $5,300 asking price. Otherwise tell them they'll need to discount the price by the fee amount.

 

I think you have to pay the Documentation Fee, ask them to drop the price $499, which is the doc fee...

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Just spoke to the Sales Manager at the dealership (Lots of interest and activity on the car as far as CT) and I can buy it for $5,334 plus the $499 doc fee and $67 for the temp tag...

 

So $5,900 out the door, not including 6% sales tax on the PA side and registration fees of $150 dollars....

 

Is there thrill of the ride worth the price of admission at this point.

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Just spoke to the Sales Manager at the dealership (Lots of interest and activity on the car as far as CT) and I can buy it for $5,334 plus the $499 doc fee and $67 for the temp tag...

 

So $5,900 out the door, not including 6% sales tax on the PA side and registration fees of $150 dollars....

 

Is there thrill of the ride worth the price of admission at this point.

$5900 out the door is a lot. Maybe try to buy this guy's? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5648593

 

Same color, far less miles, good mods. Newer tires.

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Just spoke to the Sales Manager at the dealership (Lots of interest and activity on the car as far as CT) and I can buy it for $5,334 plus the $499 doc fee and $67 for the temp tag...

 

So $5,900 out the door, not including 6% sales tax on the PA side and registration fees of $150 dollars....

 

Is there thrill of the ride worth the price of admission at this point.

 

Only you can decide if it's worth this price. Sometimes I've paid more for something than the market because I wanted it. I don't think it's a bad price.

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$5900 out the door is a lot. Maybe try to buy this guy's? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5648593

 

Same color, far less miles, good mods. Newer tires.

 

Thanks Dispatch- I am still mulling it over. That other 3.0R could be an option, but time off to fly out to buy it and cost to drive it home, might as well buy the car an hour away from me....

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Only you can decide if it's worth this price. Sometimes I've paid more for something than the market because I wanted it. I don't think it's a bad price.

 

Hey Sunny- at the end of the day, you are very correct, sir! I am not counting thi 3.0R out yet. There is a lot $5,900+600 for TTL and state inspection can buy....definitely a question of how bad do I want this car?????

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Hey Sunny- at the end of the day, you are very correct, sir! I am not counting thi 3.0R out yet. There is a lot $5,900+600 for TTL and state inspection can buy....definitely a question of how bad do I want this car?????

 

Keep us informed on your decision.

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Will do. If the car is still available by the weekend, I might just take a bag a cash from the bank and offer $5,000 on Saturday!

 

 

The salesman from my visit Tuesday just called me back to return my call earlier today to which I wanted him to know my thoughts about the current $5,399 price I was offered yesterday.

 

He told me a different manager has offered me the car to me at $5,200. And before I heard that I was going to go and offer $5,000 as my bottom line. Looks like having the car on the lot for 3 weeks and no buyer is starting to wear on them and wanting to move it.

 

I told the salesman thank you and I need to chew it over as I am at work and going out for the night right after. Do I be bold and counter at $5,100, hence meeting in the middle of $5,000 and $5,200?

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They'll probably come down another $200, just say 5k and be done. I mean if they don't make the sale over 200 bucks then that's dumb.

 

True, gotta play this one carefully. If I wasn't 52 miles away, i'd be all up at the dealership and be like lets make this happen at $5,000. Here is my money and proof of insurance....

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If I do not go the dealership today to finalize a deal and price, still not sure $5,200 is my price, I will put a deposit on the car and go out tomorrow to get a deal done.

 

Not sure if I'd miss my Camry and the fuel economy and the interior and trunk space, but dang it if this car is not fun and great to drive for a solid DD

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If I do not go the dealership today to finalize a deal and price, still not sure $5,200 is my price, I will put a deposit on the car and go out tomorrow to get a deal done.

 

Not sure if I'd miss my Camry and the fuel economy and the interior and trunk space, but dang it if this car is not fun and great to drive for a solid DD

 

No one misses a Camry :lol:

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No one misses a Camry :lol:

 

Maybe I am biased, but my Camry holds as much as my 2 Outbacks and gets 30 MPG in mixed driving and 34.5-37 MPG on the highway.....it is a great car, albeit a bit boring, but the 5MT makes it fun!

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So I went to the dealership today after work to hammer out my best deal and buy the car. So the salesman brings me the car and says do you want to drive it again, I'm like sure why not just to be 1000% sold on the car.

 

I'm about a mile or 2 into the drive (by myself) and going up a slight hill, I notice a moment later the CEL comes on along with the Cruise Control light blinking and the S indicator of the SI drive is also on and flashing.

 

Car is still running fine. Drove it another mile or 2 and turned back around and back to the dealership. I told my salesman and they took it back to the service department and told me it is a ode regarding the Cat(s).

 

They cleared the code and the car is the same as before. Question is what could this really be? Bad Cat(s) or 02 Sensor(s)? Something else.

 

The dealer now just wants the car gone and it is mine if I want it for the price if $4,700. Do I dare pass on it, or jump on it and hope the issue I described is minor and not a big deal to address?

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If they cleared the code without actually showing you the ACTUAL code, I'd walk 100%. If they had nothing to hide, why wouldn't they just bring you back and show you the code so remove any doubt? Sketch.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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If they cleared the code without actually showing you the ACTUAL code, I'd walk 100%. If they had nothing to hide, why wouldn't they just bring you back and show you the code so remove any doubt? Sketch.

 

They did tell me about the code, it being a reference to P0420 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold.

 

I got this on my Camry recently AFTER i replaced the Cat....only got it after filling up and driving on long trips, 400-500 miles.

 

I don't think I would call them sketchy, rather they understand it could be nothing or something bigger than a honda dealership wants to deal with, hence the $500 drop in price.

 

If they were truly sketchy, they would not tell me anything and not offer the car at a lower price....

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So I dodged a bullet and should walk away? Perhaps this is why the owner traded it it in on a new car.

 

Why would he spend $700 on the 120,000 service along with the drive belts and a fuel injection service and then a month later trade the car in??? That's a lot of money to spend on a car to just trade it in a month later, no?

 

I am going to call the Subaru dealership in the morning and see if in their notes from the last few months they have any CEL codes that came up on this car.....and go from there....

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So I dodged a bullet and should walk away? Perhaps this is why the owner traded it it in on a new car.

 

Why would he spend $700 on the 120,000 service along with the drive belts and a fuel injection service and then a month later trade the car in??? That's a lot of money to spend on a car to just trade it in a month later, no?

 

I am going to call the Subaru dealership in the morning and see if in their notes from the last few months they have any CEL codes that came up on this car.....and go from there....

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P0420 is one of those codes that can be difficult to troubleshoot. Could be oxygen sensors, bad cat, exhaust leak, etc. Heck, with the high mileage, I guess it isn't too surprising. Exhaust parts for the H6 engines can be pricey, IIRC.
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So called the dealership where the legacy was serviced and the owner did know back in 2015 at 144,xxx miles that the front cat was getting clogged and started to through the p0420 error code and just had the service department clear their code when it would come on over the next 2 years. Owner was quoted by his dealership back in 2015, $2018 for the parts and labor.

 

I have followed up with the dealership selling the legacy and e pressed my continued interest and can now buy the car for $3,600. I think at this point I either buy the car and slowly get the car ready or pass.

 

Leaning towards buying at $3,600...

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