apexi Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 I had poor fit issues with traditional engine air filters, so i switched to the aem dryflow filter with a rubber gasket around 4 years ago. Here's a picture of what I mean by poor fit with traditional paper/fabric engine air filters with a plastic cage. The picture below is a fram engine air filter, but other brands had the same issue. It might flatten out when the airbox is snapped closed, but I still didn't like the way it fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 I had poor fit issues with traditional engine air filters, so i switched to the aem dryflow filter with a rubber gasket around 4 years ago. Here's a picture of what I mean by poor fit with traditional paper/fabric engine air filters with a plastic cage. The picture below is a fram engine air filter, but other brands had the same issue. It might flatten out when the airbox is snapped closed, but I still didn't like the way it fit. Thanks, I took the car for a test drive after I had re positioned the air filter. I didn't have any problems with the car at full load. My turbo noise is quieter as well. Makes me think there was a gap between the air filter and its housing. I'm going to grab a better fitting air filter tomorrow and hope the problem is fixed. I do miss the noisy turbo though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 So, currently I don't have a way to monitor fuel trims or anything like that. My OBD2 scanner was a quick and cheap solution that tells me what is working and what my CEL means. I'm thinking I might grab a Tactrix cable so I can knock out the tuning while still being able to monitor the car. Does a Tactrix cable work as a diagnostic tool? With a tactrix cable and laptop, as well as free software(learning view and ecuflash), you can do more than a diagnostic tool! http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/complete-beginners-guide-e-tuning-vendor-and-vag-com-cable-158118.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 Quick question. What suspension setup might offer the smoothest ride? I'm thinking about doing a few things (braided lines, new pads, rotor change), but I'm not sure about doing suspension. I'm not looking to lower the ride or make a track car. I'm looking to make daily drives smoother. Same with most of the other stuff. I don't want to drive a track car. I want a fun daily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Stock suspension is gonna be about as smooth and soft as it gets although you could replace your struts if they're still the factory ones. Could be wearing out. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I enjoy the Bilsteins on my spec b. They can be a little harsh on some roads but nothing too serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I enjoy the Bilsteins on my spec b. They can be a little harsh on some roads but nothing too serious. Harsh on back roads...I guess you haven't been in a car with Koni's Sport yellows set a 1/4 turn off full firm and Epic springs. My Spec B ride so much better then my wagon. But the wagon does handle better. The Koni's can go softer...but what's the point... I didn't buy them for that. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 I decided to take a look at my cabin air filter. Same as the fuel pump area, there was something living in there. Nearly killed a vacuum trying to clean it all out. I have a new filter coming in tomorrow. The old one was basically nonexistent and was replaced with something's nest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I decided to take a look at my cabin air filter. Same as the fuel pump area, there was something living in there. Nearly killed a vacuum trying to clean it all out. I have a new filter coming in tomorrow. The old one was basically nonexistent and was replaced with something's nest. LOL. Coincidentally I replaced my cabin air filter two days ago. There was a large feather on it but no creatures or nests. Any chance you took a picture of it for entertainment value? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 I wish I had. I was a bit frustrated since I burnt out my vacuum and was trying to fish out the crap late at night. Now that it is cleared out, my AC runs faster on high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 So, I'm about to do the 45K mile service on my Legacy GT. According to Subaru, that maintenance interval should include... Recommended Maintenance Clutch operation Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions Engine oil Engine oil filter Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system Rotate and Inspect Tires Steering and suspension I understand most of this, but what exactly does it mean for the "Steering and suspension" and "Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint positions?" It doesn't imply that it is just an inspection, so does that mean I have to replace all of that? What exactly would a dealer do for this maintenance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 The dealer would charge you a few hundred bucks to do the same thing most of us do...if it ain't broke don't fix it. At 45,000 miles there should not be much to do other then look at things with a good light. I know the car is a 07, I would think about replacing the 10 year old timing belt. That's more important. Do you have a area where you can get under the car with a good light and inspect things ? I'm one of the ones that will jack up the car some evening pull the brakes apart, wire brush the bracket and caliper, grease the slide pins and slides, paint and reassemble them. I did the rears on my Spec B the other night in about an hour. If you have a place and the right tools, doing simple stuff on these cars is pretty easy. There are plenty of DIY's on here if you need help, just ask us. Do you have the service manual ? http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 I do have the service manual. No lifts around here though. Timing belt you say. I'll look at that. Also, what timing belt should I get. I've read the old standard was the Gates TCK328 kit. Apparently they switched parts manufacturing though. What is the next best option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 the Gates belt wasn't the item in question IIRC, it was all the other pieces of the kit like the idler and water pumps that declined in quality. I get all OEM timing parts, FWIW. also, this is a really useful article since your car is nearing 10 years old now, even though the mileage is low, age does wear parts also: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2740715 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 I posted a link to Dayco timing belt kits the other day. I still have one Dayco drive belt on the wagon that I install back in 08 I think it was. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but do I need to replace only the belt, or do I need to replace all of the pulleys as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 That's a tough call.. My OEM pulleys went 195k before I replaced them along with my timing belt. Subaru did my timing belt at 102k and did not replace the pulleys, when I incorrectly thought they would. If your car only has a mere 45k on it, I wouldn't be too worried about replacing the pulleys. At the same time, it doesn't hurt to replace the pulleys either. In your shoes, if I had the money, I would probably replace the pulleys just to do a complete job with all new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 its common practice to do all the pulleys and a new tensioner when you do a new timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 It's always a good idea to replace the pulleys, as long as they are of oe quality. I did my timing belt around 95k, with no signs of problems, my tensioner was leaking and one of the pulleys has seen better days. It's not often you go through the work of accessing the timing belt so it's best to do everything at once, including the water pump and even the thermostat. An entire kit is not all that expensive given the importance of all components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 its common practice to do all the pulleys and a new tensioner when you do a new timing belt. Yep, pretty much what he say's here, Better to replace $100 or so worth of pulleys then have he belt break because of a worn pulley... It's always a good idea to replace the pulleys, as long as they are of oe quality. I did my timing belt around 95k, with no signs of problems, my tensioner was leaking and one of the pulleys has seen better days. It's not often you go through the work of accessing the timing belt so it's best to do everything at once, including the water pump and even the thermostat. An entire kit is not all that expensive given the importance of all components. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 What exactly would be the differences between the Tactrix 3-Port and GrimmSpeed 3-port boost controllers? Are there any advantages for going with the GS? http://www.grimmspeed.com/electronic-boost-control-solenoid-3-port-subaru-08-14-wrx-05-09-lgt/ http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=20&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53&vmcchk=1&Itemid=53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 What exactly would be the differences between the Tactrix 3-Port and GrimmSpeed 3-port boost controllers? Are there any advantages for going with the GS? http://www.grimmspeed.com/electronic-boost-control-solenoid-3-port-subaru-08-14-wrx-05-09-lgt/ http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=20&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53&vmcchk=1&Itemid=53 I would ask your tuner which one he prefers.. mine prefers the cobb over the grimmspeed so ill probably go with that one. Im pretty sure they all do the same thing though 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 I don't have a tuner... I'm just going to tune it myself using Covert russian's threads as a baseline. I guess it's safe to say that personal preference is the primary factor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Oh ok... well from the research ive done, as im in the market to get one before i get retuned again, the company 23 is the best one, but its also $230. The grimmspeed or cobb should work fine for my stage 2 setup and both are cheaper options 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 Quick question about the turbo banjo bolt filters. Do I need to drain the oil before I can get those out? I meant to remove them during my oil change, but it slipped my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.