obikenobi27 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Quick question. Is it possible to switch tunes while driving? For example, have a tune for performance, a tune for efficient city driving, and a tune for efficient highway driving. This sounds like the same thing as the si-drive dial, but would it work with custom tunes? Also, is it possible to change the tunes on the SI-drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I believe the Tuner can program different boost settings in the 3 different drive's. PM Brian or Mike at www.tuningalliance.com I think Mike told me he did that on my Spec B. I can't remember. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Thanks! I was somewhat concerned that tuning my Legacy would force me to only have one mode. The SI-Drive is great for switching between spirited and economical driving. I would be disappointed if I lost that feature. Knowing that the Legacy has a sort of "hot-swap" tune feature with SI-Drive, could I hook up a COBB Accessport and switch between tunes on the Accessport while driving? Safely of course, but is it possible? It seems like the same concept as SI-Drive, but with a more advanced/ featured device. Part of the reason I'm curious is that the Accessports are often mounted in cars. I don't quite understand why this is the case. It is understandable if it is useful in motion, but if you can only use it while in park, it would be better placed in the glove box. One more question for today. How difficult would it be to put the OEM GPS/ display in the dashboard storage cubby (where the GPS/ display is on equipped models). I believe I saw this done somewhere on the forum, but there wasn't a write-up on the procedure. Would it even be worth doing something like this? I was going to replace the radio with a Pioneer touch screen, but then I found out the only way to accomplish this, in a car with climate control, is by using a JDM part that is around $300. Not only that, but people seem to have varying levels of satisfaction with the fit and finish of this oh-so-pricey part. Hence why I might settle for the OEM GPS instead. So would it be a (somewhat) simple plug-and-play process? Would the functionality be the same as the factory equipped models? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 IMO buy a Tom Tom or portable GPS with free lifetime updates. I update my Tom Tom four times a year for free. And I can take it in any car, and its much cheaper. I paid $185 for it at BJ's. 5 years ago. did I say FREE LIFE TIME updates ? I change SI- drive settings in my Spec all the time, around town it's S# cruising on the highway its I. When I come up on traffic on the highway I have to remember to go to S# if I have the need...the need for speed... I don't feel the need to have the AP hanging off the dash, it's just one more thing to get in the way and if for some reason you knock the OBDII cable with your foot.... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 IMO buy a Tom Tom or portable GPS with free lifetime updates. I update my Tom Tom four times a year for free. And I can take it in any car, and its much cheaper. I paid $185 for it at BJ's. 5 years ago. did I say FREE LIFE TIME updates ? I change SI- drive settings in my Spec all the time, around town it's S# cruising on the highway its I. When I come up on traffic on the highway I have to remember to go to S# if I have the need...the need for speed... I don't feel the need to have the AP hanging off the dash, it's just one more thing to get in the way and if for some reason you knock the OBDII cable with your foot.... The two reasons I would prefer the OEM GPS over a portable one is that the OEM GPS doesn't have a power cable strung in the car and the OEM GPS fits nicely in the dashboard. Something about having a suction cup on my windshield or dashboard just bugs me. On top of that, I can install a backup camera. I'm not sure if this is possible, but I might be able install sensors for tire pressure, battery level, boost pressure, and so on which could be read by the OEM GPS/ display. I'm not necessarily interested in the GPS function, but more in possible data outputs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Also, here is the result from the less than successful headlight restoration. https://drive.google.com/file/d/18k09d_wFqkN8yjDckwMxWbQCcU0vbKWDaw/view?usp=drivesdk It is a Google Drive link so the resolution is high enough to see the issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Also, do I need an aftermarket ECU for tuning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Thanks! I was somewhat concerned that tuning my Legacy would force me to only have one mode. The SI-Drive is great for switching between spirited and economical driving. I would be disappointed if I lost that feature. Knowing that the Legacy has a sort of "hot-swap" tune feature with SI-Drive, could I hook up a COBB Accessport and switch between tunes on the Accessport while driving? Safely of course, but is it possible? It seems like the same concept as SI-Drive, but with a more advanced/ featured device. Part of the reason I'm curious is that the Accessports are often mounted in cars. I don't quite understand why this is the case. It is understandable if it is useful in motion, but if you can only use it while in park, it would be better placed in the glove box. [...] The SI drive CAN still work after tuning, and even more exaggerated if requested - as long as the tuner is capable. I know that i mode for my car will only build about 8psi of boost, S is around 18 and S# is about 20. Its not just boost that changes, its a few tables so the car is running correctly in each mode, not just setting lower boost levels. There are quite a few posts on this forum about this, so you can check that out also. On top of that, you can change the entire map on the fly (called "realtime") with an AP, that will change the entire tune over, but I can't see a reason for this other than during the tuning session, or some other rare occasion. You can also switch over to a valet map, then back to your standard map, and the AP makes it very easy and quick to do. That is another feature I haven't found the need to use yet - but it is there. Also, do I need an aftermarket ECU for tuning? No. The AP connects to the factory ECU. or you use a Tactrix cable to work with it. no changing of physical ECU required. Lots more reading/info for you here: https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/display/PRS/V3+Accessport+Subaru+User+Manual#V3AccessportSubaruUserManual-MapSelection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 The two reasons I would prefer the OEM GPS over a portable one is that the OEM GPS doesn't have a power cable strung in the car and the OEM GPS fits nicely in the dashboard. Something about having a suction cup on my windshield or dashboard just bugs me. On top of that, I can install a backup camera. I'm not sure if this is possible, but I might be able install sensors for tire pressure, battery level, boost pressure, and so on which could be read by the OEM GPS/ display. I'm not necessarily interested in the GPS function, but more in possible data outputs. Dose the OEM GPS give you live traffic updates and well it re-route you if it knows there's a traffic where your headed ? My Tom Tom will. Sounds like your good with electronics. I'm not and tend to take the easy way out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 The car did its stall again this week. It's been quite a while since that had happened. I used the OBDII scanner to see if anything would come up. P0171 came up, but there isn't a CEL. This was the same code that came up last time I checked when there was a CEL. I've read some about this, and apparently it means "System too lean." Any thoughts? I'm going to clean the MAF sensor, but I'm not sure how to go about it. I hear the MAF sensor is pretty fragile. What should I clean with and how? Also, would this be a possible cause of my engine shutting off? Would the car turn the engine off if it detects a notable issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 It's not likely a MAF would cause stalling/killing, but it doesn't hurt to clean it. Find a can of CRC MAF cleaner, spray it all over, especially the temp probe, then let it air dry. Try not to get any on the o-ring or else take it off. Remove a battery cable, hold the brake pedal a bit, then put it all back together. Could help some of your issues. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Replace the front O2 sensor...or have you done that recently ? I seem to go through a front every 2 or 3 years. The front O2 is used to meter fuel flow. It your sensing a leak condition, that O2 could be sending a bad signal. I think JmP's sticky has a link to which O2's to buy. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Replace the front O2 sensor...or have you done that recently ? I seem to go through a front every 2 or 3 years. The front O2 is used to meter fuel flow. It your sensing a leak condition, that O2 could be sending a bad signal. I think JmP's sticky has a link to which O2's to buy. I haven't done anything to an O2 sensor. I'm not sure if it would've been replaced at a maintenance at some point. Is that something the original owner would have done at a dealership maintenance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Not likely. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 The car is 9 years old, a $90. O2 sensor doesn't sound like bad option. They are fairly easy to replace, behind the right front wheel. Make sure you spray the old one with PB Blaster and put a screw type hose clamp around the O2 Socket to keep it from spreading. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 It sounds like the O2 sensors go bad because they are exposed to a lot of heat. Is there a way to put it somewhere it will last longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Not that one. It's needs to be in the exhaust stream pre turbo. If you changed out to ECU to a stand alone, you could run a wide band post turbo. See the O2 sensor in the down pipe, to the left of the turbo http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCF0750.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 I cleaned the MAF sensor using a q-tip and some alcohol. Very small amount of alcohol. It was a bit dirty, but hopefully it will eliminate the P0171. If not, I'll try and get a new O2 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 There's a post in JmP's sticky up top with recommended O2 sensors. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 Which O2 sensor am I replacing? I'm assuming the one behind the front passenger wheel. What should I look for at Advance Auto Parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Well, there's two O2 sensors, Max first referred to the front one, which is on the header. That's the one I'd try, the sensor you're looking for is Denso 234-9120...kinda doubt your local auto parts stores will have it, but you could try. You might be better off ordering from[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9120-Oxygen-Sensor-Ratio/dp/B001F799X6]Amazon.[/ame] The sensor by the front wheel (in the downpipe) is your rear O2, which could also be bad but the front one is more likely to fail. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 What size wrench do I need for the O2 sensor? I don't seem to have anything that fits it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=o2+sensor+socket&sprefix=O2%2Caps%2C170&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ao2+sensor+socket]Amazon.com: o2 sensor socket[/ame] I have the second one down. I put a screw type hose clamp around it after its on the old sensor so it doesn't spread. Trust me on that one. Also spray the old sensor with PB Blaster, let it sit and work. Put a small dab of anti seize on the threads of the new one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 ^^^^ What he said. Both types of o2 sockets can get the job done. The first one is a little more rugged but the second one gets in harder to reach areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 I had thought my stalling problem was fixed, but it still continues. It happens when I pull up to a stoplight or drive in stop-go traffic. When my car slows down, it begins to shudder when it reaches the low gears. I think this might be a problem with fuel pressure and am currently running a bottle of Lucas fuel additive through my engine to try and clean the injectors and fuel filter a bit. I'm replacing the O2 sensor today as well. I'm thinking of doing CovertRussian's fuel system mods so that I can replace the fuel filter. Is all of this a good idea or should I try other things. If someone could make a video of their mostly stock engine noise in a parking lot and on the road, I would appreciate it. Maybe I can compare it and find mine sounds like it has a leak. I checked with some brake cleaner while idling for vacuum leaks, but I did not find any. To further describe my situation. When I brake or coast, sometimes my engine cuts out. The tachometer drops very low before the engine cuts out indicating a stall. One semi-consistent scenario is when I coast up my driveway (which has a semi-steep incline). I'm pretty sure this has something to do with fuel pressure. Any help is greatly appreciated as right now my car isn't really safe to drive. I'm leaning towards a problem with the fuel pump/filter system, but I'm not sure. Is there a way to find out the fuel pressure is low right now? I don't really have a gauge or something lying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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