obikenobi27 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Also, the fuel system modifications I am referring to are: Here Here and Here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I see he has a link in the first "here" to a fuel pressure gauge install. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 I see he has a link in the first "here" to a fuel pressure gauge install. I'm only going to do the modifications of necessary. I was wondering if there was a way to see if the fuel pressure was sufficient without a gauge so I don't have to go and buy one. If the fuel pressure is the problem, I will do most of the modifications since I will already need to mess with the fuel pump. EDIT: I've looked around, and a pressure gauge seems like the only option. I will go and buy one to test the fuel system. EDIT2: Do I need to cut the fuel line and install a gauge to check the pressure? Is there not some port to check the fuel pressure in the engine bay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I'm only going to do the modifications of necessary. I was wondering if there was a way to see if the fuel pressure was sufficient without a gauge so I don't have to go and buy one. If the fuel pressure is the problem, I will do most of the modifications since I will already need to mess with the fuel pump. EDIT: I've looked around, and a pressure gauge seems like the only option. I will go and buy one to test the fuel system. EDIT2: Do I need to cut the fuel line and install a gauge to check the pressure? Is there not some port to check the fuel pressure in the engine bay? You can buy some fuel line and a pressure gauge for under $15 at a local auto parts store. You're also going to want to get a "T" for the fuel line. At some point in the feed line your going to splice in the T and add a length of hose to the gauge. Leave enough hose to feed the gauge up to your windshield and place the gauge there and go for a drive monitoring the fuel pressure. You want to make sure it rises with boost and doesn't fall off at idle. That's the cheapest way to test. Otherwise you can install a permanent gauge for piece of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I know Max mentioned a vacuum/boost leak test. Have you done that yet? It almost sounds like that could be your issue. Wanting to stall when the revs come down and leaning out could mean a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 I know Max mentioned a vacuum/boost leak test. Have you done that yet? It almost sounds like that could be your issue. Wanting to stall when the revs come down and leaning out could mean a leak. Yep. What I did was let the car idle while spraying certain areas described in this thread with CRC brake cleaner. I listened for a change in the idle noise, but nothing ever came from it. I was pretty sure I would have a leak, but there doesn't seem to be one. This was the reason I asked for a video of someone driving a working car. I was going to compare engine and turbo noise to see if mine had any unusual whistles or tones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 That will work fine if you have leaks in your tgv or intake gaskets, but what about the miles of vacuum lines? I would try the test described here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/checking-general-health-your-engine-and-tune-210369.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 That will work fine if you have leaks in your tgv or intake gaskets, but what about the miles of vacuum lines? I would try the test described here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/checking-general-health-your-engine-and-tune-210369.html Could you clarify what I think I'm reading? What I think is the process is to remove the air intake and spray aerosol into it. Then I just listen for leaks? Also, can I use the brake cleaner from my last test? I guessing no since the directions say a can of aerosol or spray paint (I'm assuming the paint is empty). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 You remove your intake and you use the end of a can to block off the turbo inlet so no air gets in or out. You then remove the vacuum line to the bpv and attempt to blow into it with your mouth. You should be able to build a few pounds of pressure and it should hold for a little while. If air just escapes you will hear it coming from somewhere under the hood and should be able to track it down. I've used this test dozens of times. You don't actually spray any aerosol in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 If I was to install a fuel pressure gauge, I could use any gauge from an air tool right? Doesn't need to be specific to fuel pressure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I think you want a fluid filled gauge, so the needle doesn't bounce around. I think that's what we used on the race car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 I got around to installing the O2 sensor yesterday. Wasn't too difficult except I couldn't find a 7/8" tool anywhere. The car seems to be more consistent with idle RPMs. I do have a small problem still where the car will "half stall." The car feels like it is going to stall like before, then the tachometer drops below 500RPM. Instead of stalling though, the engine suddenly jumps up and prevents a stall. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 You did clean the MAF, right? Check for vac leaks also. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 You did clean the MAF, right? Check for vac leaks also. Yeah, all that is done. Vacuum leaks are nonexistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 You did clean the MAF, right? Check for vac leaks also. Yeah, all that is done. Vacuum leaks are nonexistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Sounds like it could be a fuel supply issue then, a pressure gauge might be your best next step. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 I've got a few error codes that I haven't seen before. P0302 and P0304. I also have P0171 and P0301 pending. I've already read that these are misfires. Where should I start to diagnose this? I've already cleared the codes once, and they came back pretty fast. The CEL is on too. Also, when I started my car the next morning after the O2 Sensor install, it took a few turns of the key to get it running. I had taken it for a test drive the night before and it started fine. I haven't had a weird start since. Could it be related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 It could be a number of things. Sounds like you could have left a vacuum hose off somewhere. A 171, which is a lean code can cause a misfire. Have you replaced your intake manifold gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 ^ that's the first step, and it's free. Every now and then my wagon will take a extra crank or two too start. It did a few weeks back fora couple mornings, hasn't done it since. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 The P0171 and P0301 codes are gone this morning. I haven't replaced any gaskets. How much would something like that cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 This little filter is a bit chewed up, but that is the only problem I can find in the vacuum lines. What I'm starting to think is that the previous owner left the car sitting for some time with gas in it. I'm guessing the car wasn't driven too often since it only has 40000 miles over 10 years. My hypothesis is that the old crappy gas got cycled through the system and gunked up any filters or lines causing a low fuel pressure. I can't test anything just yet, but I am working on setting up a gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 This is really strange. The code never seems to stay on in the car. It kind of switches between various misfire codes and sometimes no codes at all. Even the CEL can't decide if it wants to stay on or off. I haven't cleared anything either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 You might be right about the gas. If it's sporadic, it very well could be dirty injectors or bad gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 So today I discovered one of my ground straps broke in the engine bay. Not sure how long it has been that way, but it seemed like it had broken for a while. I replaced it. What would a broken ground strap have caused? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 You should replace both of those ground wires. Not sure exactly what they will cause, but you want good grounds, clean all of them. Those two seem be the only ones that need replacing. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5218_zps47b42c1c.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5215_zps4651c6e9.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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