Questions From a New 2007 Legacy Owner

[Tehnation]

should get the oil checked out for safe measure, costs like 30 bucks. I like blackstone for testing.

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-is-oil-analysis.php

[obikenobi27]

Do you plan to check or change (the oil and filter) list of items yourself ?

 

I guess you realize you don't have a clutch...

 

Do you know if the diff fluids were changed at 30,000 miles ?

 

Here's a link to the service manuals,

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

Yes, I will be replacing the fluids and filters on my own. I will change the oil with the Shell Rotella T6 stuff that was recommended. As for the filter, I was thinking about picking up a K&N filter. Shouldn't be too difficult to change everything. I do realize I don't have a clutch as well . Unfortunately, I don't know about any previous maintenance. It would probably be best for me to just change everything and keep my own records for when to change.

 

Also, it looks like I will get compensation for everything except a tire patch. I will know for sure tomorrow, but as of right now, the person I talked to seemed pretty compliant with compensating the mechanic's bill and the cost of replacement belts.

 

I found out when I got home today that the previous owner/ someone else had made off with the tire jack. Unfortunate, but it gives me an excuse to grab one that isn't a pain to use.

 

Finally, here is a picture of my Legacy. I plan to defog and seal the headlights as well as clean up any sap on my car this weekend. Maybe later this summer, I will do an LED conversion on the lights.

 

[Tehnation]

the stock jack fits nicely in the boot with spare, so its not so bad. i'd get stock jack for when you actually break down, because it fits under trunk and is out of site etc. Don't get some random 50 lbs jack... the stock jacks in cars are shitty because they usually fit in small spaces! But they do their job just fine when ur on the side of road with a flat tire!

 

does the k&n need a tune? I know the intake on these cares are a pita. The k&n may make things worse, i'm not sure, but thats what i recall, u either need a tune or they **** ur fuel trims up. But like i said , i can't really remember, maybe someone else will chime in. You might want to replace with stock if you don't plan to make any other go fast mods!

[obikenobi27]

the stock jack fits nicely in the boot with spare, so its not so bad. i'd get stock jack for when you actually break down, because it fits under trunk and is out of site etc. Don't get some random 50 lbs jack... the stock jacks in cars are shitty because they usually fit in small spaces! But they do their job just fine when ur on the side of road with a flat tire!

 

does the k&n need a tune? I know the intake on these cares are a pita. The k&n may make things worse, i'm not sure, but thats what i recall, u either need a tune or they **** ur fuel trims up. But like i said , i can't really remember, maybe someone else will chime in. You might want to replace with stock if you don't plan to make any other go fast mods!

 

Thanks for the info. I will look at other options. Do most people just replace with the stock filter?

[coldsoda]

yes the stock panel air filter and the OEM oil filter are best for these cars.

[Max Capacity]

There is a thread about Mazda oil filters here too. You might want to check them out.

 

I'll see if I can find it.

 

I have had a Perrin Panel filter for many years in my wagon, I put it in at 2000 miles or so. Lightly oiled it and never had an issue. I replaced it last year with a K&N, just because it was like 10 years old. Both my cars have a K&N air filter lightly oiled.

 

The problem seems to happen when people over oil them.

[Max Capacity]

Mazda oil filter,

 

https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=mazda%20rx8%20oil%20filter%20subaru&oq=Mazda%20oil%20filter%20for%20a%20suba&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l2.13587j0j8

[coldsoda]

^ that works too. I agree with the over-oil on the K&N. its a catch 22 - under oil and you let too much dirt in, over oil and it'll screw with the maf sensor. that's why I typically go for the oem panel filter, but if you know what you're doing, K&N works fine. I have to on my bugeye due to the KSTech 73mm intake.

[Tehnation]

Max , your car is tuned!!! 280whp lol , did you use aftermarket filters on stock tune is the real question!! A tune will fix any issues, but bone stock i think is another story?

[Tehnation]

speaking of which!!! you should probably get some sort of tune, etunes work well for stock, stage 1 and 2!

[obikenobi27]

speaking of which!!! you should probably get some sort of tune, etunes work well for stock, stage 1 and 2!

 

I've done a little research on that. I hear plenty of good things about the COBB tunes, but the little devices to put those on are like $600! Is there another option? I don't want to spend $600 on a tune if I'm not doing any serious performance modifications. Sorry if I sound like a complete idiot. Never tuned a car before.

[coldsoda]

There are two popular ways to tune the factory ECU - accessport (yes they do cost that much) and open source. The open source option is freeware software and requires the use of a laptop computer, plus a tactrix cable (around $170). Least popular choice is EcuTek, and I dont see much talk about that here on this forum.

 

The MUCH MORE important thing to do is do is find the tuner you want to use, ask what device they recommend. At the end of the day the TUNER is far more important than the device used to make the changes to the ECU. Cobb seems expensive yes, but I believe it to be worth the expense. However, that said I know many people that are perfectly content with open source - but those people have a very reputable tuner to work with the software and make it right.

[obikenobi27]

There are two ways to tune the factory ECU - accessport (yes they do cost that much) and open source. The open source option is freeware software and requires the use of a laptop computer, plus a tactrix cable (around $170).

 

The MUCH MORE important thing to do is do is find the tuner you want to use, ask what device they recommend. At the end of the day the TUNER is far more important than the device used to make the changes to the ECU. Cobb seems expensive yes, but I believe it to be worth the expense, as do many more. However, that said I know many people that are perfectly content with open source - but those people have a very reputable tuner to work with the software and make it right.

 

Ok then. Tuning a Subaru is a suggestion though, not a requirement, right? In some of the earlier posts, Max said something about burnt gaskets. I'm assuming that's while driving rather aggressively or on a track. If I drive the average 65 mph on a regular basis, the stock tune should be good for some time. At least, that's how I think it would work. I don't want to fork out the money for something that's not required for some time. Don't get me wrong; I want to modify this car eventually. Right now though, it's fine for my needs.

 

Also, does everybody have some kind of local Subaru specialist for tuning? People keep talking about having a "tuner." I don't even have a Subaru dealer for sixty miles. Much less a local tuner. Again, tell me if I'm just being stupid. I don't know these things.

[fotofan]

Yes tuning a stock car is just a suggestion, but then again it's a pretty important suggestion! Because on the stock tune you can easily get burnt valves, since the car is factory tuned for better mileage which hurts longevity. The tuners people are talking about are usually etuners, which means you don't have to take the car anywhere, everything is done via email. Tuning Alliance is quite popular, and in fact right now they are running a sale on APs and custom tunes! Although a stock tune that comes with a Cobb would work too. Or of course you can always get a Tactrix and just flash an open source tunes yourself, there are some good free ones out there. And about the air filter, just go with OEM. A K&N or whatever stock replacement filter provides practically zero gains and also needs to be oiled and all that, plus OEM is cheap.

[Max Capacity]

Max , your car is tuned!!! 280whp lol , did you use aftermarket filters on stock tune is the real question!! A tune will fix any issues, but bone stock i think is another story?

 

Yes, I put the Perrin panel filter in when the car had less than 2000 miles on it. That was Aug 2004, I installed the Cobb AP at 8000 miles Dec 2004.

 

Had Mike (TA) tune it the first time May 2008 I think it was. We put it on the dyno at ESP in Sterling MA when it had 142,000 miles which is when the vf52 went on that was Aug 2011 and made the 280whp.

 

fotofans post has lots of good info it. Pretty much we all have been saying for years.

[obikenobi27]

Another question...

Does anybody have a solution for replacing those stupid fasteners for the engine cover, oil filter cover, and whatever else those things go on? I despise those things. Is there some kind of screw or other hardware that I can grab at Lowes or Advance Auto Parts?

[Max Capacity]

Check JmP's sticky up top, they may be a link to a bag of those plastic clips.

 

Most auto parts have them too.

 

I removed the engine cover the first week I bought the wagon back in late June 2004.

 

Beside it doesn't fit with he GS tmic.

[obikenobi27]

Check JmP's sticky up top, they may be a link to a bag of those plastic clips.

 

Most auto parts have them too.

 

I removed the engine cover the first week I bought the wagon back in late June 2004.

 

Beside it doesn't fit with he GS tmic.

 

Thanks for that. I'm not removing it just yet. The intercooler looks so stupid with the mounts hanging off the side. I went to Advance Auto Parts and got a 6 pack of 1/4" fasteners. Worked great!

[obikenobi27]

Update on the whole dealership compensation issue. For those who are interested.

 

The people up at the dealership were plenty excited to help me out, until it came time for them to pay. Then all the cards were pulled. "You didn't get a warranty" in which they didn't offer warranties for used cars. "It passed our inspection" in which whoever inspected the car just made sure the ignition worked. "We have no record of ever working on your Subaru" in which they refused to admit I had brought up the car and allowed them to source a problem. Whatever. It's $100 out of my pocket. Honestly not even that since Jason's Tire & Auto had some decency. I just don't want to take more time out of my day to deal with the dealership.

[Max Capacity]

So is it time to move on and never see the used car dealership again ?

 

How's the oil in the car, have you put the T6 in yet and a decent name brand filter ?

 

Here's a good thread about oil filters http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mazda-rx-8-tokyo-roki-oil-filter-2-5gt-147113.html

 

You'll want to pick up a can of MAF cleaner from the auto parts store, pull the two small screws and lift the MAF out, give a quick spray up the tube and make sure the IAT sensor on the side of it is clean. may be lightly tap it on a clean paper towel. let it dry for a minute then put it back in, snug up the two screws. Remember the duct is plastic don't over tighten.

 

Make sure the battery terminals are in good shape and clean. When the battery terminals are disconnected for about 15 minutes the ECU will reset. Turn the key to On for 10 seconds before you try and start the engine.

 

Check the air filter, make sure its clean.

 

Check the tranny fluid level and the PS fluid. I assume the brakes feel ok ?

 

At 45,000 miles the brake may be close to needing to be replaced, how much pad is left ?

 

Read and front diff's should have the 75w-90 Motul 300 replaced at 30,000 miles. I think 5eat's front diff use 75-90, check your owners manual or the service manual, I'm not up on 5eat's. The rear diff hold .8qt not sure about the front diff on a 5eat. Mike can get you the Motul 300 too. Don't not pour the Motul 300 in your tranny fill tube, it goes in some place else I seem to recall for a 5eat.

 

After your sure the car runs pretty well for a few day's contact Mike Kinsman of www.tuningalliance.com for a tune, Brian his Sales Manager can get you a Cobb AP or tactrix cable, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tactrix-252541.html for your lap top if your good with that.

 

You'll want to get Mikes tune in the car, you'll be happy with the difference in the car. Tell them I sent you.

 

Byron

[obikenobi27]

So is it time to move on and never see the used car dealership again ?

 

How's the oil in the car, have you put the T6 in yet and a decent name brand filter ?

 

Here's a good thread about oil filters http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mazda-rx-8-tokyo-roki-oil-filter-2-5gt-147113.html

 

You'll want to pick up a can of MAF cleaner from the auto parts store, pull the two small screws and lift the MAF out, give a quick spray up the tube and make sure the IAT sensor on the side of it is clean. may be lightly tap it on a clean paper towel. let it dry for a minute then put it back in, snug up the two screws. Remember the duct is plastic don't over tighten.

 

Make sure the battery terminals are in good shape and clean. When the battery terminals are disconnected for about 15 minutes the ECU will reset. Turn the key to On for 10 seconds before you try and start the engine.

 

Check the air filter, make sure its clean.

 

Check the tranny fluid level and the PS fluid. I assume the brakes feel ok ?

 

At 45,000 miles the brake may be close to needing to be replaced, how much pad is left?

 

Read and front diff's should have the 75w-90 Motul 300 replaced at 30,000 miles. I think 5eat's front diff use 75-90, check your owners manual or the service manual, I'm not up on 5eat's. The rear diff hold .8qt not sure about the front diff on a 5eat. Mike can get you the Motul 300 too. Don't not pour the Motul 300 in your tranny fill tube, it goes in some place else I seem to recall for a 5eat.

 

After your sure the car runs pretty well for a few day's contact Mike Kinsman of www.tuningalliance.com for a tune, Brian his Sales Manager can get you a Cobb AP or tactrix cable, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tactrix-252541.html for your lap top if your good with that.

 

You'll want to get Mikes tune in the car, you'll be happy with the difference in the car. Tell them I sent you.

 

Byron

 

Yes, I'm done putting up with their crap. Unfortunately, it means I've let them win, but it's not that much of a loss since I own a Subaru now.

 

Oil in the car is fine for the moment. I'll replace it soon though. I'm still not sure if I'll grab an OEM oil filter or an aftermarket one. I will be checking out that thread though.

 

I'll pick up that MAF cleaner too. Although, the air filter seems pretty clean. I believe the air filter is the box on the American passenger side of the car, correct? Also, is there any benefit to getting a COBB or K&N cone shaped air filter? I think they are called "cold air intakes." Would it benefit the car in longevity? Also, would it be a good idea to install one now if I modify the car in the future?

 

The battery terminals are just fine and the ECU was just reset. That was what Jason's Tire & Auto did to fix my stalling issue. I will put some grease on the terminals though to prevent corrosion.

 

Power steering fluid is fine, but it probably could be replaced. How often should the transmission and power steering fluids be changed?

 

The brakes feel alright. They will stop the car without too much force, but there is a noticeable difference between mine and the ones on my dad's Toyota (25,000 miles). If I can borrow some calipers, I will measure the brake pads this weekend.

 

When you say motul, are you referring to differential oil? From what I've seen on the maintenance, the car was serviced as Subaru recommends. I don't know the last time it was serviced, but I'm pretty sure it was taken to the 30,000 mile maintenance, so the differential fluids should be fine. That said, I should still probably check the differential fluids. How would I check that?

 

I'll continue to look into getting the car tuned. How common would it be for a local mechanic to have a Tactrix cable that I could borrow? I might see if I can get a tune and install it at a car shop.

 

I've been somewhat bombarded with finals the past two weeks. I should start working on the car towards the end of the month.

[Max Capacity]

That's fine focus on finals the car wait.

 

I think 5eat's have a dip stick in the drivers side back by the brake boost for the front diff.

 

I know 5mt's get the fluid changed every 30,000 miles and the rear diff.

 

The rear diff is a 1/2 square that you stick a 1/2 drive extension in a an rotate it lefty losey righty tighty.

 

Do not thread the plug in very deep just snug it up.

 

Air filters, I run K&N in both cars, lightly oiled, people tend to over oil them. I is in that black box passenger side. Do Not buy a CAI, the cold air intake on the car stock is good till 400hp or so.

 

Not sure you can borrow a cable but its worth asking. Read about tuning in the Tuning Forum or PM Brian at TA and talk with him. He's fairly easy to find on the forums as he post in lots of threads.

[obikenobi27]

So, is [ame=http://www.amazon.com/69-8003TFK-Typhoon-Intake-Short-Black/dp/B000CO9V6S]this[/ame] the intake you're using? It says down in the Amazon Q&A that this is a "ram air intake." What does that mean?

[Max Capacity]

No.

 

I have something like this, a panel filter that fits into the stock air box. The stock air box is hard to beat. You should have that big flat black intake duct that attaches to the black box which is where the filter is.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/daniel-stern-lighting-and-subaru-headlight-options-45991.html

 

click on my click here link, you might be able to see some pictures of the stock air intake and the rest of the set up.

[JustCallMeNick]

here's a link to the service manuals

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

thank you:)