Tehnation Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 black connectors in rear, white in front. Before they were triggering the light. But I haven't let it get to the point after changing the plugs, and just checked for anything with the accessport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 black connectors in rear, white in front. Before they were triggering the light. But I haven't let it get to the point after changing the plugs, and just checked for anything with the accessport. Are you clearing them after each change you make? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 (edited) yep. Going to replace those 2 cam position sensors with the new ones I bought. Edited December 3, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 Misfires do happen regularly. If it doesn't trigger a cel it's nothing. I get random misfires but the sum never gets higher than 3-4 and I don't feel them but see them with live monitoring. Flashing cel is active misfiring on cylinder(s) and you definitely feel it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 Just for info, I gap my plugs at .027-.029" as I believe most of us do when pushing more boost than stock. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 (edited) I'm ruling out ignition at this point cause, those kind of misfires you would feel. I'm getting some weird phantom misfire. I don't feel or notice anything. I'm hoping its not compression, leakdown was fine. Maybe rings need sealing but the motor has power, idles, accelerates and drives fine. The codes don't actually match the normal misfire symptoms, no stumbles, or roughness, only when the light gets triggered does something happen but drives fine after, maybe its switching from open to closed or whatever. I am going to actually drive it and see if I can get the light to come on. I am not sure if it was the lean code or the misfire codes that triggered the cel light. Now that the tune is a better, I will see if the light will come on and go away, because I remember that happening before the new tune, I got a cel then restarted it a couple times and it went away. This P0000 is confusing. Edited December 4, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 Also thinking it might have something to do with the cold starts. I don't have tgv's, and when it starts cold its rough, but when it warms up its fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 So, I got another set of plugs, completely forgot that I was using one step colder plugs, the ngk lfr7aix. Going to use a much smaller gap .27. I bought regular plugs and put in insane gaps, going to change everything tomorrow, its just all wrong, probably wont do much but its best to do things the right way. Been busy so I haven't been able to work on the lgt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Been waiting on an update. Good luck. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 Also going to check my exhaust manifold bolts. It rained all day so nothing got done today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 22, 2021 Author Share Posted December 22, 2021 (edited) Somethings not right.... Ive been getting hesitation under boost, seems like an issue that has been getting worse. Wasn't happening or not as much 1st time I drove it since rebuild, now it's more consistent. Not sure what is going on but it seems like i got an issue. No noticeable loose lines etc. Wondering if my tgv intake manifold gaskets need to be changed. The misfire codes I am getting are only for 3 out of 4 cylinders, I thought it was all 4 but its only 1-3. So I am going to pull apart the manifold and change some gaskets. Gotta go to stealership and get some. Also saw that my clip on my ebcs connecter is busted so it may or may not be making a proper connection. Ordered another clip. I was testing my wastegate and the actuator to make sure things were working properly. Tested the ebcs, I just put power to it to see if it clicks. Havent driven it since noticing it but the connection was loose and all dirty, the rubber insulation was all out of wack, hopefully when I take it out later it resolves the issue. But my car doesn't seem to like being under boost atm. Edited December 22, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 (edited) Ok! little help lol. The car starts to buck and hesitant as soon as it gets into some boost, it just falls on its face and has no power. I changed all the intake manifold gaskets, looks like that increased vacuum a little. Put back in my one step colder plugs, with a smaller gap, changed coils. Inspected my boost controller and lines to turbo. Tested the wastegate actuator and arm, it moves, but not sure how to test if its good or not. Vacuum leak seems like the culprit but for the life of me I can't find it, and I am a vacuum leak veteran, Ive been chasing them for years. I am at the point where I can tell you the entire air hose system by memory. What causes a car to hesitate and stutter under boost? Vacuum leaks and?? BPV, WG actuator needs adjusting? Any thoughts? I am about to just toss in the towel lol. Edited December 24, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 Check the intercooler to throttle body connections and also the turbo inlet. If one is loose or folded over you'll have this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 What kind of plugs are you running? MAF clean with good connections? Have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 (edited) Check the intercooler to throttle body connections and also the turbo inlet. If one is loose or folded over you'll have this issue. I just pulled the intercooler to change the intake manifold gaskets, the grimmspeed tmic, makes installation hard to mess up. All those clamps are tightened, I checked the turbo to ic connection as well. I inspected the turbo inlet or the parts that I could see, but that turbo inlet is fairly new, less than 5-10k miles on it, if that. Didn't notice any tears either. I will inspect the tgv to engine gaskets, maybe something is going on there. blah gotta pull it apart again. Edited December 24, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 What kind of plugs are you running? MAF clean with good connections? Have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Maf is new, connection pigtail is new. Haven't tried running without the maf connected though. Will try that as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 What kind of plugs are you running? MAF clean with good connections? Have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!!! So yea, unplugged the maf and the car works fine, I plugged it back in and the thing would barely start and then same boost issue. Finally progress!!! So unplugging maf car runs fine, plugged in it runs like shit! Ahh whats that mean guys!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 Wondering if this new maf is defective or something.... going to try the old one and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 Where did the box on your denso maf say it was made? The older denso that everyone bought on amazon was made in japan. The newer one isn't. A MAF is one of those things that is becoming dealer only now unfortunately as aftermarket parts get worse quality (especially electronics). Counterfeit parts are just too rampant anywhere and subpar quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 Is the new sensor OEM? If not....try to find one. Glad to hear there is progress. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WMG8A0 Is what I ordered, was made in.....somewhere that is not japan lol, vietnam maybe?. Denso 197-6040 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 hmm just tried the old maf sensor which is oem and same thing. The older maf is fairly new with little miles on it as well, its from before rebuild but it didn't have many miles on it. So I dont think its the maf itself, old oem one and the new bootleg are doing the exact same thing, older one seems to be doing it a little worse but that could all be in my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 Can you do a boost leak test with a air compressor ? A smoke test would be a good idea too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 Been there done that lol! I pressurized the system and nothing, it just blows out my evap purge valve thingy and it starts making kazoo noises. Holds the pressure as well. Smoked it too, and no smoke anywhere. Then I smoked and pressurized the system and still nothing. I don't think its a leak, I think its some sensor. Ordered a new maf. I unplug the maf and everything works fine under boost. When I plugged it back in, took a couple tries to get it started and to keep it running. Its like it had to relearn how to start and idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share Posted January 14, 2022 (edited) Ok, so good so far. Changed my busted cam sensor plug, buttoned up all the vacuum leaks by replacing the tgv, tgv- engine gaskets, and new orings for my injectors(make sure you grease em!). Also changed my fuel injector plugs, they weren't in good shape and may have been causing misfires, had bare wire showing at the seams from age and wear and tare. Also changed my windshield.... bastards installed the wrong glass, I wanted the pilkerton or whatever with the tint on top..... but for now this will do for inspection. Figured out why my fog lights were not working lol. The bulbs were smashed from the accident I had years back. Edited January 14, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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