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MTBwrench's 2005 OBXT Build! #DDRaceWagon


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He does, but adjusting camber via the bushings on our multilink rear suspension also affects the toe angle. As he mentioned, the decision was made to leave the camber uneven in order to minimize the discrepancy in the toe angle. The stock eccentric bolt for adjusting toe was insufficient to bring the toe back in after adjusting the camber.
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The UCA bushings are usually sufficient on LGTs. Lowered Outbacks have the added geometry complication when the body lift is retained. Extra negative camber in the rear won't really hurt, aiming for zero toe is the right idea. The only downside (IMO) is that it will be nearly impossible to set the car up for neutral at-the-limit handling.
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The UCA bushings are usually sufficient on LGTs. Lowered Outbacks have the added geometry complication when the body lift is retained. Extra negative camber in the rear won't really hurt, aiming for zero toe is the right idea. The only downside (IMO) is that it will be nearly impossible to set the car up for neutral at-the-limit handling.

 

Which is why I intend to get the Whiteline arms at some point. I want to have my chassis 100% sorted before I add any more power. Now that I can actually throw it around a little more, the slow as molasses steering rack is really becoming a thing... :( But I don't foresee being able to perform that mod for a long long time, sadly.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Which is why I intend to get the Whiteline arms at some point. I want to have my chassis 100% sorted before I add any more power. Now that I can actually throw it around a little more, the slow as molasses steering rack is really becoming a thing... :( But I don't foresee being able to perform that mod for a long long time, sadly.

 

could start with "just" an LGT rack to begin with. plenty of LGT's coming up on the block for parts.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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could start with "just" an LGT rack to begin with. plenty of LGT's coming up on the block for parts.

 

 

 

Just sold my LGT rack for $215 shipped across the country.

 

 

 

I've driven a 2015 STi... I refuse to settle for anything less. :)

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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The UCA bushings are usually sufficient on LGTs. Lowered Outbacks have the added geometry complication when the body lift is retained. Extra negative camber in the rear won't really hurt, aiming for zero toe is the right idea. The only downside (IMO) is that it will be nearly impossible to set the car up for neutral at-the-limit handling.

 

On my outback, we got zero toe, with still some room to adjust it. And I also just have the KCA399. And I think I'm a bit lower, too. I told him I was going to add a bit more spacer in the rear, so we went with the -1.9-ish number. Still haven't added that spacer.... might not... Anyways, just surprised they couldn't get it more equal, based on my one single experience. Hrmm, whelp, good to know.

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I ended up with the Megan Racing rear control arms to get my rear toe to 0. I have had them on for two seasons and I am happy with the results.

 

For the front LCA bushing I just used the STi ones.

 

It still amazes me how sensitive this chassis is to rear toe.

 

Peace,

 

Greg

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  • 1 month later...

Well... remember when I said I didn't plan on autocrossing my Outback? I lied. :lol: A few weeks back I participated in the Chicago Region SCCA event #2 at Route 66 Raceway in Joliet, IL. All I can say is WOW what a helluva time!!! The wagon performed flawlessly, didn't miss a beat. I did quite a number on my DWS trying to find a proper tire pressure. I was approaching damn near 40.5psi (warm) that day trying to keep my 55 profile sidewalls from flexing too hard and causing far too much scrub. I also can't stop bawking at how paltry my steering ratio is... I fully believe I could've been considerably quicker on sticker/stiffer rubber and a shorter rack. Body roll was also a fair issue. The Bilsteins and JDM pink springs were fantastic. Fore & aft body movement was very predictable and consistent, incredibly controlled. Side to side motion, however, was just silly. Stock sway bars (as many of you have warned me multiple times) are just never going to cut it... I'll eventually get the AVO braces and whiteline bars f&r. Anywho, here's some pictures and such from the event:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBQFN1yJQEk]2016 SCCA Solo Event #2 Heat 3 STU#472 - YouTube[/ame]

 

26973193691_d37f195f80_b.jpg

 

26947230062_1d1ea34e46_b.jpg

 

26767283660_eca56286bf_b.jpg

 

27298822452_403987fda1_b.jpg

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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  • 9 months later...

Haven't updated this much... but here's a soundclip of the current state. It's making not too friendly noises(as you can hear when I pull away), and I have no idea why. I'm hoping it's a bad axle.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUGQ553Bjmk]Subaru Outback XT External Wastegate Soundclip - YouTube[/ame]

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Yeah something doesn't sound right, maybe diff?

 

You making any big meets in your area this year? I'm not doing any coast to coast so it would be cool to get some of the 5 state (IA,IL,WI,MI,MN) outbacks together.

 

I don't think it's a diff. I've broken one of those and its significantly louder, and consistent. Anyways, I can go to a parking lot and do figure 8's all day with zero noises. If I roll all the windows down, the noise clearly comes from the front driver's side axle area. However, it's only when either 1) cold or 2) loaded up while making a pull/right-hand turn. I'll also add that this trans has never been brake boosted or "launched", since I installed it, for specifically that reason. I have center diff bushings waiting to be installed, but I'm waiting for the 7 month Chicago winter to be over. :spin:

 

As for meets, yep! I plan on going to the event in Byron they have every year, and perhaps whatever else comes up. I'm not too familiar with the events that hap[pen every year... my job essentially requires that I work every friday-sunday from late march to early October.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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I don't think it's a diff. I've broken one of those and its significantly louder, and consistent. Anyways, I can go to a parking lot and do figure 8's all day with zero noises. If I roll all the windows down, the noise clearly comes from the front driver's side axle area. However, it's only when either 1) cold or 2) loaded up while making a pull/right-hand turn. I'll also add that this trans has never been brake boosted or "launched", since I installed it, for specifically that reason. I have center diff bushings waiting to be installed, but I'm waiting for the 7 month Chicago winter to be over. :spin:

 

As for meets, yep! I plan on going to the event in Byron they have every year, and perhaps whatever else comes up. I'm not too familiar with the events that hap[pen every year... my job essentially requires that I work every friday-sunday from late march to early October.

Is the axle oem?

 

I had two brand new axles that were shot from the get go. If you get under the car, grab the axle shaft and move it towards and away from the transmission. If there is play, that is your culprit.

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Is the axle oem?

 

I had two brand new axles that were shot from the get go. If you get under the car, grab the axle shaft and move it towards and away from the transmission. If there is play, that is your culprit.

 

 

 

That's the best part: this axle has every bit of 225,000 miles on it! :lol: I plan on replacing the axle/bearing when I do my ball joints and LCA bushings. I'm hoping it holds out...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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  • 3 weeks later...
Can you measure the distance from center hub to fender with your pinks? If you still have the OBXT tires on (although I guess tires should change that measurement)? I am curious how much of a drop I can expect with mine.

 

Tires won't change the measurement, or at least I don't think so. If my physical logic is correct, the spring doesn't care what wheel or tire are mounted to it, so long as said wheel and tire do not rub/bind on anything preventing compression. The distance from hub to ground will change because of wheel diameter, but the hub to fender distance will remain constant because the fender is supported by the wheel bearing relative to the wheel whilst the ground is "supported" by the wheel and tire. Make sense? I feel like I just puked up some word soup... :rolleyes: Anywho, I'd be happy to measure. I spent 8 hours today cutting my toe arms out of my sub-frame to install a Whiteline KTA124 toe/camber arm kit. Coincidentally, I'm getting an alignment tomorrow morning! I'll measure my hub to fender distance after it gets aligned. IIRC, I vaguely remember it being around 15.25 inches in the rear and around 15.6" in the front.

 

Also, on the subject of tending to my build thread, I've compiled a list of things that need to happen this summer. Namely due to mileage:

 

-Rear driver's axle boot is torn. F*ck me.

-Trailing arms bushings have separated and are walking out on both sides. Still no play, but there will be soon.

-Pretty much every other bushing too.

-Ball joints.

-Probably 2 to 4 wheel bearings.

-Driveshaft carrier bearing and u-joints are starting to head south. Maybe next year.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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I meant to say tires should not change that measurement. Interesting 15.6 front...I am at 14. Really curious what yours is. Would be odd if front pink springs got me more travel.

 

I haven't touched my rear trailing arms yet. I feel like if I am in there I should do Legacy GT rear trailing arm bracket (center the wheel), bushing (if whiteline makes one) and KTA124.

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