MTBwrench Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Interesting development.... I'm afraid I may have messed up my master cylinder. I was out driving the other day and my friend asked me to "show him what its got" when we were on a twisty back road... Well, let me tell you, it feels like it's got a LOT! Twisty roads in third gear are absolute bliss. The new brakes performed fantastic as well, for a while... I got them real hot, they started fading, so we called it a day after about 7 miles of intermittently pushing it. I hauled down from about 85-30 many a time in that period. By the end of the run I was ramming the pedal to the floor, and decided it was enough. Kind of wish I had gotten DS2500 pads... I've always said I don't really push the car, and it rarely happens, but when i do I push it all the way. The Hawk HPS 5.0 pads have excellent grip once they warm up, but there's an immediate loss of bit as soon as they get too hot. I guess I should't be surprised though, they bit exceptionally well wen dead cold, especially for a "performance" pad. I probably wouldn't buy them again, and go for something with the same mu factor, but in higher average heat range. Getting back to the original story, after that fading incident, the pedal is now intermittently squishy. I checked all my lines and calipers, but no leaks. I can press it once, feels great, again down the the floor, and then later it feels great again. I'm gonna flush/bleed with ATE fluid soon, I have Lucas synthetic in there, maybe I baked it. I also have 200,000 mile rubber lines, so feel free to scold me for that too! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I have been pretty impressed with Stoptech street performance pads. Stop well in the snow / cold and I never was able to make them fade at the track (on DWS). But a I also replaced my fluid with ATE super blue and put stainless steel lines on at the same time. Except they do dust, A LOT.... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 I'm definitely doing fluid and lines come spring. I would do it now... but with ambient temps close to zero, I have zero motivation to get in the garage and hold forged steel objects. The interesting thing about these Hawk HPS pads is that they really hardly dust, at all. I guess they're much more street than they are performance. May try the Stoptechs next, love the price! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schrei Wolf Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Y I had JDM Spec.B wagon springs (not pinks) all around, but I switched out the rear to KSRS-29, because the back couldn't handle a load (4 people, 2 dogs, gear for a weekend) without being almost on the bumpstops. The KSRS-29 (King Springs Rear Standard) despite it's name raised the rear of my car an inch and I got rid of the 1 inch spacer. I still have the .5 inch spacer in. Hmmmm I'm interested in these for my LGT paired with Bilstein HDs No saggy butt and I can put a deer on the hitch mounted cargo carrier. Btw sweet set up MTB! I'm running a similar set up in my LGT as your OBXT mod wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Hmmmm I'm interested in these for my LGT paired with Bilstein HDs No saggy butt and I can put a deer on the hitch mounted cargo carrier. Btw sweet set up MTB! I'm running a similar set up in my LGT as your OBXT mod wise. I have them paired with HDs. I highly recommend them. They are awesome. Rallitek also makes a spring for the rear, but the Kings have a little higher rate and are progressive. I want to try both, but these work very well so, I doubt I will. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 So has there been some new development in terms of spacer safety? I was always under the impression that they were dangerous for anything other than light street use. However, I enjoy running my wagon hard sometimes. That has driven me to considering one of the BTS kits to keep the OB high but make it much more capable without going full retard on a poorly made (and priced nearly the same) coilover kit. I read through the whole thread but maybe I missed it. Is there now some new enhanced strut/string alternative to the KY-BS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schrei Wolf Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 I'm definitely doing fluid and lines come spring. I would do it now... but with ambient temps close to zero, I have zero motivation to get in the garage and hold forged steel objects. The interesting thing about these Hawk HPS pads is that they really hardly dust, at all. I guess they're much more street than they are performance. May try the Stoptechs next, love the price! I did rears last Tuesday... was not fun but the frozen caliper pin left me no choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 So has there been some new development in terms of spacer safety? I was always under the impression that they were dangerous for anything other than light street use. However, I enjoy running my wagon hard sometimes. That has driven me to considering one of the BTS kits to keep the OB high but make it much more capable without going full retard on a poorly made (and priced nearly the same) coilover kit. I read through the whole thread but maybe I missed it. Is there now some new enhanced strut/string alternative to the KY-BS? I wouldn't consider quality spacers as an issue. Keep in mind the unibody that the top hats are bolted into is only a few mm thick in the first place. And, honestly, I would consider anything an improvement over the KYB crap. BTS kit is highly recommended, and Bilsteins with JDM pink springs is my second choice. I did rears last Tuesday... was not fun but the frozen caliper pin left me no choice. That's what powered me to do the swap as well, a sticky caliper last winter really made braking in slippery situations a fun project. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 So has there been some new development in terms of spacer safety? I was always under the impression that they were dangerous for anything other than light street use. However, I enjoy running my wagon hard sometimes. That has driven me to considering one of the BTS kits to keep the OB high but make it much more capable without going full retard on a poorly made (and priced nearly the same) coilover kit. I read through the whole thread but maybe I missed it. Is there now some new enhanced strut/string alternative to the KY-BS? I have had spacers on my car for years now. I "run my car hard", had a track day, and generally try and push it within reason on mountain roads. Offroaders use them all the time and too much more of an extant than we do. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 I have had spacers on my car for years now. I "run my car hard", had a track day, and generally try and push it within reason on mountain roads. Offroaders use them all the time and to much more of an extant then we do. Most any lifted 1990's Chevy 1500 you have ever seen has a simple spacer block between the rear axle and it's leaf springs. If a 6800lb truck can't break them, I don't think we will (provided the material used is appropriate). MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 A little update from what I've done over the last few months because I'm a complete lazy ass (aka- in school and no time!): Deatschwerks DW65c Fuel Pump Upgrade: I was encountering a weird fueling issue which eventually turned out to be a bad fuel pump. However, mine didn't fail like most, it just leaned out slowly and dangerously as I got further into boost. Thank goodness I had a wideband or my motor would probably be toast. TL/DR- Using a 200,000 stock pump on a stage 3 setup is a bad idea. Pulling my interior apart, cant wait to hear all those rattles when it goes back in ... Untitled by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr Here's where the pump is located, passenger side right under the bench! Untitled by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr And lastly, the complete fuel pump assembly, new pump tucked away nicely inside! Untitled by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr Cool tangent: The fuel level float is a simple resistor strip system. Different lengths of mildly conductive material will produce different resistance values as a tiny slider pin on the end of the float contacts them. This value is read by the ECU in terms of voltage(I believe) and then sent as a signal to the cluster's fuel gauge! Untitled by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 How much fuel was in the tank when you did that swap? And how'd that go with spillage? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 How much fuel was in the tank when you did that swap? And how'd that go with spillage? I did mine with a quarter of a tank and there was no spillage. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 How much fuel was in the tank when you did that swap? And how'd that go with spillage? Same as OB2.5XT, bout a quarter thank. You really need to try hard to spill fuel, as long as you remove the pump assembly delicately you're fine! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 I totally forgot this when my fuel light came on. I knew I wanted to do the fuel pump swap, but I auto-piloted to filling it to the top, then just drove it one time before putting it on jack stands for the parts install. *sigh* I'll have to drive it easy for a few days then do the pump. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 I totally forgot this when my fuel light came on. I knew I wanted to do the fuel pump swap, but I auto-piloted to filling it to the top, then just drove it one time before putting it on jack stands for the parts install. *sigh* I'll have to drive it easy for a few days then do the pump. That wouldn't really deter me, IMO. Just be gentle and you'll be fine. Just make sure to disconnect the pump electrics and run it till it dies to eliminate fuel pressure. I forgot to do that... sad mistake. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Another little update: JDM Legacy Spec.B Wagon Suspension Install: _DSC0030_edited-2 by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr Okay, so as many of you probably know, the wagon is sitting a *little* lower than it used to. I had been a big proponent of trying to retain my stock-ish height for practicality, but as many of us Outback owners know... that's not a realistic goal with what is available to us. In light of that, I sipped(I guess you can say chugged) the kool-aid and sourced me some Spec.B goodies! Big thanks to Discojon for deciding he wanted coilovers and selling his Unicorn 5EAT wagon springs to me. Here's what I got: -USDM Bilstein HD B6 dampers all around -Spec.B Tophats (required for the Bilstein dampers) -JDM "Tuned By STi" 5EAT Legacy wagon springs #unicornparts -Spec.B alloy rear upper control arms -Whiteline Anti-Lift kit -Whiteline front LCA bushings -Whitline rear camber kit IMG_4242 by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr IMG_4245 by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr IMG_4241 by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr Of that, so far I have installed everything except the lower control arm bushings. I really want to find a set of Spec.B LCA's to press those pretty bits into. I got an alignment for the meantime, because with so much suspension geometry changing, this wasn't one of those "mark your camber bolts and you'll be okay for a while" type of projects. The caster is still not ideal because guess what... my front LCA bushings (rear position, the "hockey puck" ones) are torn! May have to get the ALK installed before I find myself some alloy arms. Ah, well. Here's the results, not too shabby: gramps_alignment_04-06-16 by Cenzo Reyes, on Flickr MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Nice work. So basically, same set up as my 06 except you got those alloy rear upper ca. I also need to install my whiteline LCA bushings. Just been lazy lately.... Now make sure you secure that bike well on that roof rack of yours when you hit that pothole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Uh, what's up with the rear camber? Did they adjust it at all? I'd think you'd want -1 to -1.5 max. That -1.9 didn't change. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Uh, what's up with the rear camber? Did they adjust it at all? I'd think you'd want -1 to -1.5 max. That -1.9 didn't change. That's the effect of me not having adjustable rear arms. They gave me the choice of having a little more camber in an effort to make toe optimal... so that's what happened. I figured more camber is less destructive than more toe... A whiteline roll center kit and rear adjustable arms are in my future, I suppose. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Looking good Cenzo. Hopefully the ALK and adjustable arms will resolve the outstanding alignment issues. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Looking good Cenzo. Hopefully the ALK and adjustable arms will resolve the outstanding alignment issues. Thanks! I'm hoping such as well. I'm hoping to save up for the adjustable arms and a TransGo shift kit by summertime so I can tie up all the "loose ends" in my setup (literally); the trans shifting, and suspension specs. I know the roll center kit isn;t necessary, but I'd love to get that installed as well. I should add some new brake lines to that list as well. My brakes have gotten progressively less stellar since installing them. I believe part to be the crappy HPS pads, and part to be the original hard lines and "average" brake fluid. Then when all this is done... I can buy a VF52, send it to JMP, and convert to top feed with a GS TMIC so I can sip teh cornz. I still can't get over how fantastically it controls its mass now. It's amazing! Average circular on ramp speed is at least 15mph higher. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 I still can't get over how fantastically it controls its mass now. It's amazing! Average circular on ramp speed is at least 15mph higher. Told ya!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 The stock OB suspension is underdamped and floaty even when in good working order. Put some significant mileage/wear on the shocks and suspension/chassis bushings and it gets downright hobbled. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 That's the effect of me not having adjustable rear arms. They gave me the choice of having a little more camber in an effort to make toe optimal... so that's what happened. I figured more camber is less destructive than more toe... A whiteline roll center kit and rear adjustable arms are in my future, I suppose. But you have these "-Whitline rear camber kit" KCA399 right? Those are just +/- 1 degrees. Should be able to get both the same at least. Did you point them out and tell them how they worked? My guy totally missed them, and then cursed their design. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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