Sarang Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) So sarang I'm guessing those two threads held up so far I may try n go to the hardware store and get longer ones Thanks I may have described that poorly. It started out with two threads finger-tightened, then I went at it with a socket and got the nut all the way on before it seemed tight enough. No leaks that I know of, but the bolts really seem like they should be a quarter of an inch longer. With my Q300 the bolts are plenty long... but that's without the adapter. Edited March 24, 2016 by Sarang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haruichi808 Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Did anyone re use the stock turbo to dp bolts, is it ok Or do I need to get new ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Did anyone re use the stock turbo to dp bolts, is it ok Or do I need to get new ones? if they are in good condition and the nut spins on the bolt cleanly there is no reason to replace. that i said i LOVE fresh hardware so if they don't look real nice just replace them, it'll be $25 at the hardware store and worth the peace of mind. if the are crush washers or split locking washers they should be replaced no matter what tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 The hardware store will not have,the proper turbo to DP studs and nuts. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Those studs are Subaru p/n 800910580 and will probably cost you around $10 each from the Subaru dealer if you can get them to wiggle on pricing a little. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 The hardware store will not have,the proper turbo to DP studs and nuts. .... a good one will not home depot or lowes, carp 42 Studs FTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Where is the cheapest place that anyone has been able to source the studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 do you have solid specs on them? mcmastercarr is always my go to for specialized hardware as long as you know exactly what you are looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 So any news from others? It's not immediate for me but I do have the recirculating valve in the close future and a tuner picked out. It seems my biggest concern right now is getting under the car since it's so low. There's no way I'm getting the front half on jack stands. It's pretty hot and humid in Florida so I'm not expecting boosting issues. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 There's no way I'm getting the front half on jack stands. well not with that attitude! Should be able to whip up a makeshift ramp out of some 2x4's that'll give you enough room to get a jack under the car. That's how I got under my low 5th gen when I had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Haha, trust me. I'm a real dyi guy but the way I see it I'm just not sure. I actually bought some low profile ramps just to get a jack under there and just so happens I was tooling around yesterday, jacked up the front drivers side and by time all said and done the rear was lifted as well. I can't imagine going the full 11 inches unless I buy a second jack and do both simultaneously. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Haha, trust me. I'm a real dyi guy but the way I see it I'm just not sure. I actually bought some low profile ramps just to get a jack under there and just so happens I was tooling around yesterday, jacked up the front drivers side and by time all said and done the rear was lifted as well. I can't imagine going the full 11 inches unless I buy a second jack and do both simultaneously. Just drive onto 2 sets of 2 2x6's stacked so you can pull onto one then the other and jack it up from the cross member or the rear diff if you're tryin to lift the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellesedil Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Haha, trust me. I'm a real dyi guy but the way I see it I'm just not sure. I actually bought some low profile ramps just to get a jack under there and just so happens I was tooling around yesterday, jacked up the front drivers side and by time all said and done the rear was lifted as well. I can't imagine going the full 11 inches unless I buy a second jack and do both simultaneously. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk What weight rating do you have on your jack? Can you not just jack up the entire front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghionw Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I keep a few pieces of MDF from my old sobwoofer projects for this purpose. Stack two pieces and drive the front tires onto them. I then have enough clearance to slide my jack under the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 You can use the factory jack to get it on jack stands just do one side at a time...just another reason not to lower it, lol. As for the humidity and heat, you shouldn't overboost, but hitting target boost in the summer...I barely hit target boost when it gets into the upper 80s, but hit amost 18 psi when it gets below 60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sm00veM00ve Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/50f114feb5717d2e7790c9e0cbfc15de.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/f349da0f5f1ebab665411e836c6c5a64.jpg No great picture but full nameless tbe is installed. V band clamps are so nice Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 No great picture but full nameless tbe is installed. V band clamps are so nice SICK!!! when are you gettin this beast on the dyno? i can't wait to hear her roar! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Just drive onto 2 sets of 2 2x6's stacked so you can pull onto one then the other and jack it up from the cross member or the rear diff if you're tryin to lift the rear. Yeah the front and rear jack points at the center are the way to go if you want to get the car up on jackstands. I only jacked the car up from the side if I was changing tires. No great picture but full nameless tbe is installed. V band clamps are so nice Where are the v-bands at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Where are the v-bands at? I think they are all down on the midpipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 ^Yes, there is one just before the Y. Maybe a second, but can't remember. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 gotcha, all I can see in the pic are the flat flanges on the DP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 ^Yes, there is one just before the Y. Maybe a second, but can't remember. there's one on the end of the resonator and and one before the Y. i just wasn't sure if there were any on the DP itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) No great picture but full nameless tbe is installed. V band clamps are so nice Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk Would that be a 20G on the other side of the downpipe flange? Edited March 29, 2016 by jackal8788 VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghionw Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Yeah the front and rear jack points at the center are the way to go if you want to get the car up on jackstands. I only jacked the car up from the side if I was changing tires. Where is the center jack point in the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Where is the center jack point in the rear? the rear diff, recommended by Subaru in the manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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