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Nameless Downpipe: Official 5th Gen GT Install Thread


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So i'm gonna paraphrase a bit. i think that turbos with internal wastegates often rely on the flow from the wastegate to cause back pressure on the turbine to slow it down, by slowing down the turbine you make it harder for fluid to flow past it. flow will always take the path of least resistance, either the flow thru the wastegate has to be efficient or has to cause back pressure on the turbine to slow it down raising its resistance of flow thru it. in the original version (swanne's) the way the wastegate flow meets with the flow thru turbine in such a way that makes flow from the wastegate efficient. not only is it efficient because of the curve, the existing flow past the meeting of the 2 pipes causes negative pressure in the waste gate pipe meaning it gets a nice boost in flow when the wastegate is first opened. with the new version the flow meets at 90 degrees so there is no negative pressure in the wastegate pipe and the flow thru it is not efficient, it also doesn't have the advantage of creating back pressure on the tubine to slow it down because the flow is introduced down stream past the cat.

 

these are just thoughts. We can't really say its a design issue until we are positive that everyone's wastegates are actually opening and not getting hung up on things.....

 

 

THAT TOOK WAY LONGER THAN THE FIRST TIME I WROTE IT OUT

Edited by ripstik
it wasn't finished yet
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As much as it sucks to say it I think that this may be a flaw in our turbos. Sounds like as soon as we get exhaust that can flow freely enough the WG just is not able to slow down the turbine. Even in some cases it sounds like with a ported WG. Could be just a problem with the WG flow design. All I know is that it sounds like we just need to have a restriction in the exhaust somewhere to inhibit flow through the turbo a bit.

 

The only way to tell for sure is to get someone with an otherwise stockish system to do the install with a ported wastegate.

 

Didn't Starks have a good install?

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I'd rather do it right the first time. I'm speaking to mtune out in Orlando. I asked him about revisions and all and he's talking about a whole new tune and more dough. I have a recirculating valve on the way so I need this sorted out before I go down.

 

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Edited by Starks
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I have heard a lot of good things about revworks and circuit motorsports is supposed to have a good tuner as well. Circuit is pretty active on one of the subaru pages I keep up with on FB. Haven't heard of Mtune. There is supposed to be a well known shop in Tampa if I can find the name I will give it to you, always good to have options.
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I already spent 500 bucks on a tune and can't afford to do it again I'm just gonna swap out with a catless invidia dp, any one interested in my nameless do with intermidiate pipe

See? And this is what I don't want. I'd be so hot.

 

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I have heard a lot of good things about revworks and circuit motorsports is supposed to have a good tuner as well. Circuit is pretty active on one of the subaru pages I keep up with on FB. Haven't heard of Mtune. There is supposed to be a well known shop in Tampa if I can find the name I will give it to you, always good to have options.

I just looked Circuit up and I remember that red really car from the mega meet! I didn't realize that was them. Honestly now, I'm more inclined to go with them since they have lifts and all. Forbid the downpipe goes sideways at least we would be able to fiddle with it while we're there. I believe Michael mtune would just show up at the dyno to put a map on. No help otherwise. Thanks for that suggestion!

 

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The only way to tell for sure is to get someone with an otherwise stockish system to do the install with a ported wastegate.

 

Didn't Starks have a good install?

 

 

I've talked to a few shops about porting the wastegate on mine, none of them were willing to do it. Except for one place called Tim's Turbos but I'd have to remove it and bring it in which I don't really feel comfortable doing. Anybody happen to know any shops around the DC area that would remove, port, and reinstall?

 

I've talked to Moore Automotive(the guys who did my tune) Andrewtech, Mach V, and IAG none of them were willing to do it

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Still waiting to hear back from my tuner, just sent him an email this morning. I passed along the info you guys had about it hitting a heatshield or something blocking it so they could maybe diagnose it quicker. I have no real timeline of when I can get it back cause they were completely booked until may sometime so just hoping they can squeeze me in somewhere soon and let me know what the issue was and I'll post here when I find something out, really hope its something as simple as it hitting something preventing it from opening...
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I think with the right tools and a little care porting the turbo isnt so bad. Not tempted to give it a shot yourself? Lining up the flapper to the hole is the biggest piece but it can be marked easily and slowly but surely you'll bore that hole out

 

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It's not boring it out that's my issue it's taking it out and apart and putting it back together. Am I being too cautious? Does anyone have a how to with all the pertinent torque specs for the turbo.

 

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Starks, the reason I mentioned the etune was exactly that, most on here 1. Have experience tuning 5th gens, 2. Offer revisions for 30 days. It would get you going with time to get it dialed in for a dyno tune without blowing $500 with nothing to show for it.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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I already spent 500 bucks on a tune and can't afford to do it again I'm just gonna swap out with a catless invidia dp, any one interested in my nameless do with intermidiate pipe

You know you're probably going to want to re-tune if you throw a different DP on there, right?

 

Most tuners would charge you a lower rate than the initial tune to revise the tune for new parts, so you shouldn't be out another $500 to retune...

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You know you're probably going to want to re-tune if you throw a different DP on there, right?

 

Most tuners would charge you a lower rate than the initial tune to revise the tune for new parts, so you shouldn't be out another $500 to retune...

What about dyno time though?

 

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It's not boring it out that's my issue it's taking it out and apart and putting it back together. Am I being too cautious? Does anyone have a how to with all the pertinent torque specs for the turbo.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

I can help you with some of that - PM will be sent shortly ;)

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What about dyno time though?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

Shouldn't matter. Unless you're changing fueling and major parts like that then you should not have to pay for a full tune.

 

IAG charged me for a partial tune twice ($250 instead of $500). First time I changed from Racer X TMIC to custom FMIC. Second time I added ETS manifold.

Edited by ebo03
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What about dyno time though?

I'm not saying it'll be free. :lol: But it should take a lot less time than the initial tune and should cost less.

 

My tuner had an hourly rate for revisions on the dyno after the initial tune. I would assume most honest tuners would do the same.

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In my mind, I am calculating the time it would take to make sure everything is working properly, and going with one of the forum tuners gives you plenty of time to make sure your mechanicals are doing what they are supposed to. For the price, I don't think a local tuner is going to be able to come close to matching it. Unless you feel really lucky and run the ots tune until dyno day.

 

One of the local shops charges ~$400 for a pro tune, no dyno and again no revisions after day of tuning without coming out of pocket.

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You know you're probably going to want to re-tune if you throw a different DP on there, right?

 

Most tuners would charge you a lower rate than the initial tune to revise the tune for new parts, so you shouldn't be out another $500 to retune...

 

True I had to pay double dyno fee last time cause we were trying to figure out so it will be 140 plus300 for tune , my tuner flys to Hawaii to do group tunes every few months but he train to come back in. A month for me and a few others

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So heard from my tuner this morning, doesn't seem to appear that the nameless DP is the overboost culprit, but the actuator rod inside in the 20g, apparently its getting either stuck open or closed, and the rod is instead of moving up/down, moving side to side..pretty shot. No idea how an issue like that could happen after it was looked at through BNR prior to receiving it. So I told him I still have my stock turbo and can run it up to him tomorrow after classes, hopefully swap housing and see if that'll help/solve issues..if not I guess its just stock turbo life :L
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  • 2 weeks later...

^Get things resolved?

 

How's everyone else doing? Any other successful or failed installs/tunes? Thinking I should try to get my car back for final tuning this month sometime. I'm hoping we can come to a conclusion about whether or not NP's adjustments to the design is the cause of the boost control problems some of us have or if it's just the way it is with these cars.

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