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KILLER deal on Lower control arms


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that's the second time i've seen that from you, and it still hurts my insides.

 

you need to move and then replace half your car...

 

...or just push it back into lake erie (or simplify and just burn it to the ground).

 

That is an updated pic of it, not a recycle.

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Has anyone used this? Just trying to figure out what would make my life easier since it's all looking bad.

 

http://www.company23.com/subarutools/532

You can make that fairly easy with some pipe, a threaded rod, a large fender washer and threaded couplers. I made one to replace ball joints in my wife's OBS. It was simple with the tool.

 

I didn't need it for the LGT; my ball joints practically fell out when I hit them with the fork.

 

Edit: Here is the link with instructions.

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=118445

Edited by rhino6303
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You can make that fairly easy with some pipe, a threaded rod, a large fender washer and threaded couplers. I made one to replace ball joints in my wife's OBS. It was simple with the tool.

 

I didn't need it for the LGT; my ball joints practically fell out when I hit them with the fork.

 

Edit: Here is the link with instructions.

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=118445

 

So it's a homemade body side hammer thingy for unsticking ball joints?

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Mine looks like it sat at the bottom of Lake Erie when I got mad halfway though the build thread and pushed it in.

 

I been wanted to move to the south!

 

I have to be honest, that is the worst I have seen on a 05! If it was me I would be either replacing everything in that pic, or sandblasting and repainting everything in that pic. You sure it was Lake Eerie and not Salt Lake? I see your end links are furked. I will be doing a post on the Moog replacements. Start spraying that s#!t with PB Blaster and hit that pinch bolt with an impact if you have it. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen and if your lucky they will zing right off. Otherwise a cobalt 3/8 drill bit will do the trick. You'll take the threads out of the knuckle, but a bolt, washer, washer, lock washer, and nut will serve the same purpose. Spray and pray my friend!

 

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/6DCDD4EA-1091-4050-BD76-17EFBB3D3CA4_zpsjuovdpcb.jpg

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I have to be honest, that is the worst I have seen on a 05! If it was me I would be either replacing everything in that pic, or sandblasting and repainting everything in that pic. You sure it was Lake Eerie and not Salt Lake? I see your end links are furked. I will be doing a post on the Moog replacements. Start spraying that s#!t with PB Blaster and hit that pinch bolt with an impact if you have it. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen and if your lucky they will zing right off. Otherwise a cobalt 3/8 drill bit will do the trick. You'll take the threads out of the knuckle, but a bolt, washer, washer, lock washer, and nut will serve the same purpose. Spray and pray my friend!

 

LOL how did it let you post in the quote section? I may just have a shop do it.

 

Looks like a car with ~150k from chicago.

 

Nothing new to see here, move along...

Close, 80K

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Just got mine in. Looks like they may be bare aluminum. Has anyone painted them before installing them? They definitely feel lighter even without pulling the old ones.

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
How are these control arms and bushings holding up for everyone? My car has about 140k of new England driving and was going to do whiteline LCA bushings soon. Wondering if I'm better off just getting these arms complete with the balljoints. How do the bushings it comes with compare to the white lines? I'm not looking for the caster adjustments. Just trying to decide if it's with the aggravation of pressing the old ones out (don't even know if I'll need ball joints or not) or just putting in a complete arm. Edited by ktm200
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If I had to do it again, I'd get the aluminum LCAs and install the bushings myself/have a small shop press them in for cheap then install the arms myself. I decided to get the Whiteline bushings (inner & outer) and have a Subaru shop press them in to my original arms. The cost of labor was about the same as getting the aluminum arms & Whiteline bushings. In hindsight it makes sense to get a new set of aluminum arms & Whitelines and do it yourself. That being said, after 95K miles on the oem bushings the new bushings were a welcome improvement - the car corners much more predictably & takes potholes like a champ.
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Even at $110 a pop I think these are worth it if you either a.) don't have a press and have to pay for labor, or b.) have bad/rusted arms, c.) Need ball joints, front and rear bushings.

 

Mevotech uses what looks to be firmer bushings in the rear, they are definitely don't have the same voids in them. Looks like you can buy their bushings separately (I wonder how they compare to group n).

 

Here is the cost breakdown of all the parts without the control arms themselves:

Front Bushing: $15.78 - MEVOTECH MS80428 Supreme

Rear Bushing: $15.80 - MEVOTECH MS80427 Supreme

Ball Joint: $14.00 - MEVOTECH MK9513 Supreme With X Factor Technology

 

So just in parts you are at $46 per arm without shipping.

 

Add in labor of pushing the bushings out and your probably going to be closer to $100 per arm to just refresh your current stock arms.

 

 

With that said, I JUST found another alternative, this one is $54 per arm! Rock auto only shows it as being compatible with Non turbo cars, which is weird. They have the same exact part number as Mevotech, just different brand and different ball joints at least, everything else looks identical (even bushings)

ULTRA-POWER CMS80182

ULTRA-POWER CMS80181

 

Rock Auto even names them "802_ULTRAPOWER MEVOTECH_CMS80182_1__ra_p.jpg". So I think these might be Mevotech's with their non Supreme bushings!

 

http://www.rockauto.com/info/802/802_ULTRAPOWER%20MEVOTECH_CMS80182_1__ra_p.jpg

http://www.rockauto.com/info/802/802_ULTRAPOWER%20MEVOTECH_CMS80182_3__ra_p.jpg

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I got the Mevotech LCAs. As stated, the rear bushings are still rubber but they don't have the voids so they should be a little more durable. The ball joints that come with them are beefier than the stock ball joints. I think they are worth it.
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  • 3 weeks later...
Even at $110 a pop I think these are worth it if you either a.) don't have a press and have to pay for labor, or b.) have bad/rusted arms, c.) Need ball joints, front and rear bushings.

 

Mevotech uses what looks to be firmer bushings in the rear, they are definitely don't have the same voids in them. Looks like you can buy their bushings separately (I wonder how they compare to group n).

 

Here is the cost breakdown of all the parts without the control arms themselves:

Front Bushing: $15.78 - MEVOTECH MS80428 Supreme

Rear Bushing: $15.80 - MEVOTECH MS80427 Supreme

Ball Joint: $14.00 - MEVOTECH MK9513 Supreme With X Factor Technology

 

So just in parts you are at $46 per arm without shipping.

 

Add in labor of pushing the bushings out and your probably going to be closer to $100 per arm to just refresh your current stock arms.

 

 

With that said, I JUST found another alternative, this one is $54 per arm! Rock auto only shows it as being compatible with Non turbo cars, which is weird. They have the same exact part number as Mevotech, just different brand and different ball joints at least, everything else looks identical (even bushings)

ULTRA-POWER CMS80182

ULTRA-POWER CMS80181

 

Rock Auto even names them "802_ULTRAPOWER MEVOTECH_CMS80182_1__ra_p.jpg". So I think these might be Mevotech's with their non Supreme bushings!

 

http://www.rockauto.com/info/802/802_ULTRAPOWER%20MEVOTECH_CMS80182_1__ra_p.jpg

http://www.rockauto.com/info/802/802_ULTRAPOWER%20MEVOTECH_CMS80182_3__ra_p.jpg

 

I just installed these Ultrapower units. As far as I can tell the only difference would be the ball joints. The included set seemed up to the task, so I installed with them. Packaging might be another way they bump the price down. They were just bagged, no box or anything... Its been 2 weeks now and car feels solid. Got rid of the clunk and weigh about 1.5 lbs less. I would recommend these.

P_20170708_110639.thumb.jpg.ed9897315921d7a9e24c8eb835283983.jpg

P_20170708_110530.thumb.jpg.756c85e27b8869cf50ed9065eeed50ad.jpg

P_20170708_110500.thumb.jpg.48855fdfd1ee2b85a4145a3ffd0bfad2.jpg

P_20170708_110619.thumb.jpg.d20acacc3b5f2168cda5a4d8b29f3638.jpg

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Just FIY, the "ULTRA-POWER" ones have dropped in price to $38.89 each. I installed SpecB arms a while back and the bushings are starting to get warn out again. This price is probably less than just the labor to push out and replace the old bushings Edited by utc_pyro
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