KILLER deal on Lower control arms

[HungryPillow]

They come up in the marketplace for sale here semi frequently. Welcome, have a look around.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/member-classifieds-2005-2009-30.html?f=30

 

Thank you! Seems like I can't search that forum yet nor click the attached photos (I assume this is cause my post count is still low), but I will manually take a look around.

[utc_pyro]

I finally put on my Aluminum "ULTRA-POWER" arms on last week. Have to say the solid rubber bushing has a MUCH better feel than the OEM SpecB bushings with the voids in them. Turn in feels quicker, and things take less time to "settle" into a turn.

 

After installation toe was -0.51* out on both sides, so it looks like these arms are just SLIGHTLY longer shorter than the stock ones.

 

Also the Ultra-power arms are back down to $39 each, less than the cost of a ball joint or replacement bushing.

Edited February 26, 2018 by utc_pyro

[covertrussian]

After installation toe was -0.51* out on both sides, so it looks like these arms are just SLIGHTLY longer than the stock ones.

 

This could be because the stock bushings will become permanently off center overtime which will cause caster changes and causing toe changes. This is why going away from stock bushings is such a huge handling improvement in general.

 

When going from stock to ES bushings on my Outback my toe was effected. Then 1.5 years later going from ES to Superpro's toe was once again effected, all with 0 caster bushings.

[Dispatch20]

I finally put on my Aluminum "ULTRA-POWER" arms on last week. Have to say the solid rubber bushing has a MUCH better feel than the OEM SpecB bushings with the voids in them. Turn in feels quicker, and things take less time to "settle" into a turn.

 

After installation toe was -0.51* out on both sides, so it looks like these arms are just SLIGHTLY longer than the stock ones.

 

Also the Ultra-power arms are back down to $39 each, less than the cost of a ball joint or replacement bushing.

The pics now for the Ultrapower show a steel arm now. The part number is the same as the aluminum one i bought months ago. Hmm. Either way it seems like a good deal.

[utc_pyro]

This could be because the stock bushings will become permanently off center overtime which will cause caster changes and causing toe changes. This is why going away from stock bushings is such a huge handling improvement in general.

 

When going from stock to ES bushings on my Outback my toe was effected. Then 1.5 years later going from ES to Superpro's toe was once again effected, all with 0 caster bushings.

 

I considered that, but if it was busing wear would you get the exact same results on both sides? They were both 0.51 and 0.52 degrees out, I wouldn't think rubber parts would wear that consistently.

 

The arms were replaced this time due to a bad ball joint, and already having these on hand. Bushings weren't perfect, but they were better than when replaced the first time.

 

The pics now for the Ultrapower show a steel arm now. The part number is the same as the aluminum one i bought months ago. Hmm. Either way it seems like a good deal.

 

Interesting, but per CovertRussin's post that lead me to order these in the first place, didn't the pic always show a steel arm but it arrive as aluminum? Or did RockAuto switch to a diffrent OEM for their house brand arms and thus they are now steel?

Edited February 26, 2018 by utc_pyro

[covertrussian]

The used stock arms that I've seen had a tilt to them even off the car, but I don't know how much it would be off side to side since I never checked the alignment professionally.

[nevets27]

So wait the ultra power arms that are steel in the picture are actually aluminum?

 

How do I keep doing this the hard way. Got ball joints first,as I knew I needed them right away, then saw I need bushings so just got them delivered. Now it's seems I could get aluminum arms, with everything installed for cheaper then all the parts I need and have bought.

 

I don't mind doing the work to rebuild my current arms but kind of like the idea of the aluminum, even though it has little effect. Just nice to add it to the mod list.

 

Oddly, with everyone using these, what's happening to all the stock worn out/older aluminum arms no one wants to rebuild? I would be ok with rebuilding a pair. There is a few JDM shops around but their asking price for used and needing a rebuild arms is $160/pair which makes no sense. Maybe I'll see if they will go dumb cheap if I show I can get them much cheaper fully built ready to go.

[Dispatch20]

Interesting, but per CovertRussin's post that lead me to order these in the first place, didn't the pic always show a steel arm but it arrive as aluminum? Or did RockAuto switch to a diffrent OEM for their house brand arms and thus they are now steel?

 

Good question. I recall the picture for the Ultrapowers having aluminum arms last time. I ordered a set back then and I still have them in a box. In the new pics the bushing has voids like the stock bushings, too. If I wasn't lazy, I'd call up RockAuto and ask for clarification.

 

So wait the ultra power arms that are steel in the picture are actually aluminum?

 

How do I keep doing this the hard way. Got ball joints first,as I knew I needed them right away, then saw I need bushings so just got them delivered. Now it's seems I could get aluminum arms, with everything installed for cheaper then all the parts I need and have bought.

 

I don't mind doing the work to rebuild my current arms but kind of like the idea of the aluminum, even though it has little effect. Just nice to add it to the mod list.

 

Oddly, with everyone using these, what's happening to all the stock worn out/older aluminum arms no one wants to rebuild? I would be ok with rebuilding a pair. There is a few JDM shops around but their asking price for used and needing a rebuild arms is $160/pair which makes no sense. Maybe I'll see if they will go dumb cheap if I show I can get them much cheaper fully built ready to go.

 

I think most people just give away the old steel arms to scrap collectors. Shipping them is a little expensive considering how cheap replacements are.

 

I wouldn't be too upset about using a steel arm vs aluminum. I've seen an ultrapower aluminum arm get bent due to a pothole. It's entirely likely they are lower quality and structurally weaker than the Spec B aluminum arms they attempt to copy.

[sshole]

I'm holding on to the OEM aluminum LCAs just in case the Mevotechs wear out quickly.

[nevets27]

I wouldn't be too upset about using a steel arm vs aluminum. I've seen an ultrapower aluminum arm get bent due to a pothole. It's entirely likely they are lower quality and structurally weaker than the Spec B aluminum arms they attempt to copy.

 

I was wondering/worried about that. I defiantly would prefer reliability over saving a few lbs on a my DD. I was going to try to make my 3.0 into kind of a spec b. Aluminum suspension components, upgraded shocks (going with koni over bilstien), upgrading brakes (since I didn't get the LGT brakes). But it still won't have the 6MT, torsen diff and seats. Which I am good with but at that point having aluminum LCA's doesn't really matter.

 

They are/at least seem like good value. I did order the mevotech rear bushings because they are solid so we'll see how that goes.

[covertrussian]

This is why I now have a spare set of OEM steel arms, instead of depending aftermarket ones, I don't trust aftermarket sheet metals for vital suspension parts...

[nevets27]

Just stumbled upon these, they are a bit pricey and I already have the mevotech bushings but another option for solid rear LCA bushings.

http://get-primitive.com/alignment-solutions/562-tomioka-front-control-arm-bushings.html

http://get-primitive.com/1893-large_default/tomioka-front-control-arm-bushings.jpg

[covertrussian]

Problem with bushings like that is no voids, our arms need to pivot, otherwise you will get suspension bind. If they are not using voids, they are probably relying on a softer rubber to deflect, which kind of gets you back to square one.

[utc_pyro]

Just stumbled upon these, they are a bit pricey and I already have the mevotech bushings but another option for solid rear LCA bushings.

http://get-primitive.com/alignment-solutions/562-tomioka-front-control-arm-bushings.html

http://get-primitive.com/1893-large_default/tomioka-front-control-arm-bushings.jpg

 

Those look to be the same as hardrace 6840 bushings. They are a Taiwanese OEM of a lot of aftermarket suspension stuff others rebrand (Megan, Godspeed, ect). Should be able to find them cheaper through a different distributor.

[xt2005bonbon]

Problem with bushings like that is no voids, our arms need to pivot, otherwise you will get suspension bind. If they are not using voids, they are probably relying on a softer rubber to deflect, which kind of gets you back to square one.

 

Interesting comment. I thought the Whiteline ones don't have voids either. Can't remember for sure now.

[covertrussian]

Interesting comment. I thought the Whiteline ones don't have voids either. Can't remember for sure now.

 

The non caster ones have holes drilled (though I don't think that's enough). KCA kit has holes and the recessed center hole which works as an articulation point.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253934&stc=1&d=1502334150

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253951&stc=1&d=1502334209

 

Not having articulation is not as noticeable on the BL/BP's, since you install arm from the bottom, but on BM/BR's you install the arms into the subframe. Without proper articulation it's a royal pita to get everything to align. When I retrofited BL/BP ES bushings (which even have voids!) into my BR/BM I had to put full body weight on the knuckle to lower it enough to get it to align with strut's mounting holes.

 

For this reason I switched to SuperPro's once they came out. SuperPro's (and Avo's) have a convex surface which allows for proper joint articulation without binding.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=260612&stc=1&d=1515648549

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=260617&stc=1&d=1515648549

[xt2005bonbon]

I have the W53353 and now I can see that they do indeed have some voids.

 

 

 

Btw, I want to change these bushings myself. Do you think you could use these Maddox ball joint kits sold at Harbor Freight? Or you have to use a press?

[covertrussian]

I've been using a $100 press for years now, only downside is arm has to be off.

[xt2005bonbon]

What do you mean arm has to be off? You mean the control arm off the car? If yes, then this was a given for me whichever route I choose.

 

Which press are you using? I just went to HF last Saturday to look at their 6T, 12T and 20T. The last two are a bit large for my garage..

[covertrussian]

Yup arm has to be off the car. Some bushing removal kits let you do it on the car, but not sure if any apply to our arms.

 

I'm using a 12 Ton Torin, I can't recommend it though, mine came with a bent center piece so pushing bushings in is always a pain. Stupid me didn't return it back to Amazon, so now I'm just waiting for it to die so I can justify another one

[xt2005bonbon]

thanks for the info. Which 'adapters' are you using to press out and in the bushings?

[covertrussian]

I'm not , I have a few big sockets that I use. I need to get me a good set of bushing press adapters

[xt2005bonbon]

K I shut up now. Back to our regular 'KILLER deal on Lower control arms' program

 

 

 

 

 

[lilredwagon]

Where are you guys seeing them for $39? CarID has them for $116, and Rockauto has them for $100...

 

https://www.carid.com/2005-subaru-legacy-suspension-parts/mevotech-control-arm-and-ball-joint-assembly-70107153.html

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6506952&cc=1440450&jsn=417

[Cincy05LGT]

In for the $39 arms.