SFerrell

Man do these look good in red! Want to trade for my black 5EAT?

I have the same GrimSpeed pulley, but in blue. With my car being the 5EAT do you think I will need the tool for removal? I know the older autos had a service panel in the rear small enough to fit a screwdriver in to lock the trans.

You would think Subaru engineers would consider this while developing the part. I mean, with the likelihood of the crank failing and causing catastrophic and potentially dangerous events. Sounds like a lawsuit waiting to happen. It should be a recall or a service bulletin at the very least.

Just a thought, I noticed the part of the timing cover that got chewed up appears to be oil soaked. I'm guessing that you have or had a cam seal fail at some point or some PB Blaster was spilled in that area. It can cause the plastic of the timing cover to swell and make contact with the pulley. I had the exact same thing happen with my SVX and I thought the cause was a failing thrust bearing. Turns out Subaru timing covers don't get along well with motor oil.

When are you going to get rid of that plastic intercooler? Mine had a pretty major leak and was causing me to hit 1-2 psi less than my target. I found a used Avo for $200 off of Ebay and let me tell you, it definitely helped out quite a bit with my high end acceleration. I might be crazy but I swear my throttle response is better now. I did the Mishimoto turbo inlet at the same time. And my intake temps actually lowered significantly. Based on an 82 degree day, going the same route I was showing an intake temperature drop of 20-22 degrees. And I haven't even screwed with the splitter yet.

Your car wasn't continuously sprayed with calcium chloride road salt for 5 months out of the year in a Chicago suburb.

I've never tried it before. That seems like quite a bit of money for what it is. Curious if it makes removal significantly easier. I had to take an air hammer to the lower control arm to get my ball joint out. Passenger side ball joint had to be cut with a grinder wheel before I could get it out. It's by far the hardest part of the job.

Now crank that b!+ch up to 20 psi!! I found out 4 months after I bought my Legacy why the restrictor pill is so important! I hit 22 psi unexpectedly and almost pissed my pants. It's funny how just a few psi make such a difference. Too bad my engine would eat itself if I kept that up for long. How do you feel about that Avo380 turbo? It sounds about perfect to me.

I had the car on jack stands and put a bottle jack right under the balljoint castle nut on the lower control arm. Otherwise the endlink is under too much tension and it can pull the threads right out of the endlink mounting bolt. I have crossthreaded these in the past with no load on the suspension. With the bottle jack you can level everything out before you tighten your hardware down. Same goes for any suspension component. Otherwise you can cause premature wear and component failure. Remember, PB Blaster is your friend, but keep it off of any rubber you don't want to melt. I also use Anti-Seize. Keeps hardware from corroding and allows for an easy disassembly. Good Luck!

And thanks again covertrussian!

They were very easy to install. I cleaned out the hub ball joint knuckle with a steel brush, some 400 grit sandpaper, and some brake cleaner. A little synthetic grease and 2-3 taps with a dead blow mallet and the ball joint seated. The machining is pretty nice, bushings are stiffer than stock, and the rear bushing isn't the split design like the oem. I took pictures and was planning on posting my install, but my micro sd card committed suicide. Only time will tell how well they wear, but I have no doubts. Oh!.. and if anyone was wondering, I did take measurements on the set I installed and they were very close to the factory control arms. As long as you clean up any corrosion and make everything relatively clean, then these should be an easy install for you as well. If nothing else you are removing the weakest link in our suspensions and getting rid of some slop and added weight in the process. Also, the passenger side pinch bolt broke on me like most people, but the driver side did not. I soaked the driver side down with PB Blaster once a day for three days and it zinged right off with an impact. These control arms did come with replacement pinch bolts. I drilled out the broken bolt and replaced with a grade 8 bolt, two washers, a lock washer, and a nut. Screw oem! Dear Subaru Engineers, If you are reading this, lick me where I $#!t! That is all.

I agree as well.

I never realized prior to this that my intercooler had a small leak. I didn't connect the oil residue on the end tank with a boost leak. I feel retarded. Thank you for this!

I just use the Subaru stuff, Idemitsu ATF-HP. After all, the 5EAT was designed more or less around this fluid. Never had any issues with it. I would post an Ebay link, but I'm not sure of the forum rules on such and I don't want to dig to find out. 12 quarts for $64.20 on Ebay right now. You'll get about 3.5-4.5 quarts to drain out of the pan if you let it sit a few hours. I change mine every third oil change. I don't like transmission flushes. Heard too many stories of damaged shift solenoids and wiring from the pressure. I use Valvoline synthetic gear oil LSD compatible 75/90 in my front and rear differential. No noises or metal shavings on the drain plug magnets and I do beat on my car pretty hard.

My wife had a Sunbird back in the day that liked to blow head gaskets. A 3.1 of course. It was a convertible too, so that meant you had rain pissing on you and you couldn't see a dang thing out of the plexiglass rear window. My mother has an 05 Impala with a 3.4. She has spent thousands on that car and hardly even drives it.

Something as simple as a water pump? Must be some kind of design flaw. Same with the axles. American made isn't always a promise of quality, unfortunately.

$30 for a screw? That would be too much for even the classier looking women around here. Back when I was a machinist I worked for a GM, Chrysler, and Ford supplier. The GM big wigs were very anal about consistencies and our ISO reporting procedures. They obviously don't treat all their suppliers the same way. Hell, Ford didn't care about anything and I'm pretty sure Chrysler had us making parts for concept cars that were never produced. I doubt they were even aware of what they paid us to do. Good luck with your "Domestic!" Hopefully it works itself out.

Isn't the Cruze a result of GM's unholy union with the Korean manufacturers? I remember an old neighbor and his Aveo. Motor needed replacement before his second oil change. Apparently the disposable car/Yugo concept is still in full bloom.

Thanks, but $63 was with shipping. everyone else wanted $10-30 to ship. These suckers do weigh 16 pounds. In the long run I love the power my Legacy makes, and that I can fit my kids in the back comfortably. But I always had a thing for Hondas and Subarus. Subarus for their power and all wheel drive. And Hondas for their gas mileage, reliability, and low cost parts. If Honda made an AWD, 300 horsepower, turbo sedan, I would turn from Subaru and never look back. And please don't tell me you can't have power and reliability. My 72 Monte Carlo would argue otherwise. I have avoided Mitsubishi for the very reason Subaru is putting a bad taste in my mouth. Such a shame!

I don't mean to sound like a cheap snob. I've just put quite a bit into this car already and am frankly frustrated with Subaru's quality. Aside from the transmission my 92 SVX is far and away more reliable. A friend just sold his 95 Imprezza wagon. It had 374,000 miles, No engine or tranny work ever performed on it and 3 of his axles were original and still perfect. Things like bushings splitting just shows a turn from "quality" to "lets make this crap for as cheap as we can." Pisses me off. Thank you for that part number CovertRussian. Found then on Amazon for $63! Toodles.

Do you have a part number for that Empire axle? I'd sure appreciate it.

Maybe I didn't clarify enough. I am looking for a killer deal on lower control arms considering a bunch of individuals picked up some Mevotechs on Ebay and other sources for way the hell under retail. Many of you have extras. I would like to purchase a pair of those extras. I will just install the Whiteline bushings on my stock arms if I have to pay over $100 an arm. Thank you in advance. By the way, does anyone know of a cheap replacement axle for an 05 LGT that actually works and doesn't cause vibration? Can't seem to find a clear answer anywhere. Thanks again.

Anyone willing to sell me a set of the Mevotechs? My 05 needs the lca bushings pretty bad.