rebourne's '06 OBXT build thread

[MTBwrench]

I 110% highly recommend a wideband. It quite literally saved my motor when I was having fuel pump issues. IMO for an upgraded turbo setup it's one of those "you should get it if you wanna do it right" type of mods.

 

My recommendation is PLX devices. They have a sweet multi gauge system and they use one of the much better calibration free Bosch sensors.

[rebourne]

PLX, check. $200 isn't a deal breaker. Seems like good insurance.

 

Any other recommendations?

[cBax]

I like AEM. But I've never tried anything else. Had to get an Innovate for my other car due to tuning/logger compatibility. They are the only ones that openly give up their code for the datastream, apparently. Wound up getting the dual gauge for both banks. not installed yet.

 

My evo had an aem and i put one in the obxt.

[Rhitter]

I need to look into whatever is easiest to plug into a laptop for tuning. I want to hold more boost to redline.

[Flinkly]

Plx is good. They've posted their serial output info and have 2 voltage outputs for plugging into an ecu. If you've tgv deleted, can plug the wideband voltage output into the tgv and log thru romraider without anything else, or pick up an ftdi usb cable. The guages are cool but expensive. Can make one (not touchscreen) for like $15.

[rebourne]

Completed the Roadkill inspired check list:

 

 

Cranked it eight times with the fuel pump fuse out, replaced the fuse, took a mental break to double check everything in my head, then fired it up. Vroom! Smooth and sounds good. uturned it out and back into the garage so the exhaust would go outside, then slide my drip pan covered in white paper towels under it.

 

And coolant. Green coolant. Coming from the turbo area. Ah, F*CK.

 

Uturned it back into it's work spot, and back up on jack stands.

 

Could not find the source of the leak. Seemed to be up near the two coolant hard line bolts. It was dripping down the oil drain line. Not coming from the top coolant line, and nothing on the passenger side of the turbo. Ugh.

 

Sigh. Off comes the DP... Pulled the turbo off in under 30 minutes. DP wasn't even hot yet, and all the bolts were easy to remove. didn't bother clamping the coolant lines since I was already bleeding alien juice all over the drip pan.

 

I'll be focusing on this side when I look at it tomorrow:

 

 

Cracked hard line from shipping? I don't see anything with a quick look. Ran out of time before my hard stop to get the kids from pre-school. Frustrated to say the least.

 

Oh, but the ELH really does sound different! Didn't rev it much, so really can't comment yet.

Edited April 8, 2016 by rebourne

[rebourne]

Pressure tested the turbo hardlines, and was convinced they weren't the problem.

 

 

Re-installed everything with a wee bit of hope the problem would just go away, but that thought drove me crazy. I was out of ideas and just needed to see where it was leaking. So I re-installed the turbo, and all the supporting pieces. At first it didn't leak, then after a few minutes it did, but this time the upper coolant line was clearly leaking. Good experience pulling and re-installing the turbo again, however.

 

Replaced the oem 'corbin' style hose clamp with a worm gear clamp and the leak stopped.

 

 

Cut the stock turbo heat shield to clear the VF52 waste gate arm, with a crappy Ikea hacksaw. Forgot about the need to do that.

 

 

Installed the dipped in gold, blinged out, pimp my ride AVO TMIC I picked up off the forums.

 

 

 

 

There was some concern that the AVO and the Invidia 1.5 scroll wouldn't play nice. Well it worked, but I'd say Just Barely. There was some pushing, and pulling to get the hose on, and the bolt holes to line up, and then a stretch to get the BOV to line up. So far so good though.

 

 

And taking inspiration from the "what's in your bag" EDC posts, here is every tool I used for this leg of the build. To re-iterate:

 

Dropped plastic under cover

Dropped DP

Removed oem exhaust "headers"

Removed up-pipe

removed VF40

removed oem TMIC

removed and re-installed the wideband bolt on the Cobb DP (the 10mm T allen tool)

 

Installed:

Invidia up-pipe/ELH combined one piece header

 

lightly used VF52

used AVO TMIC

re-installed the DP

cut and reinstalled the turbo heat shield

chased some threads with a 8mm x 1.25 chaser

Used the M.Sprank zip tie technique to hold the turbo inlet pipe for install

 

Before I start logging for the Cryo tune, I still have the GS intake and the DW 65c fuel pump on the install list.

Edited April 9, 2016 by rebourne

[Flinkly]

Epic double post. Don't know which one to thank. Also, what's the sprank-tie method?

[rebourne]

Double post fixed!

 

Zip tie method:

 

m sprank

"How to: Installing a BNR turbo"

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installing-bnr-turbo-139943.html

 

"Pic 16=

My trick to install the new turbo with no tools on the inlet. Put your gasket on the uppipe, remove the hex bolt holding the inlet tube in place, then use string or zip ties (like I did) wrapping around the inlet and the manifold.

 

The inlet faces a bit down. The turbo needs to go over the studs and onto the oil return line while going into the inlet all at the same time. If you release the inlet it has some play. Use the ties to hold the inlet up so that the "mouth" is slightly tilted up. You are lifting it as far as possible."

 

Even though I wasn't installing a BNR, this was a great guide, and the zip tie method was brilliant. I had to try it a few times, wasting a few zip ties as my inlet is getting really soft and gummy worm like. It kept slipping off, or collapsing the intake shape.

 

First time, I used this variation of his method:

 

 

 

When I re-installed the turbo, I moved the zip tie to be behind the raised edge that the worm clamp is against and that was more stable. Didn't get a picture of that, but I'd recommend that. No more slippage or collapsing of the shape of the tube.

[rebourne]

Grimmspeed intake installed.

 

[MTBwrench]

Totally unrelated, but those pictures... holy depth of field batman! What body and lens are you using?

[rebourne]

Panasonic GX7, with 20mm F/1.7. Micro 4/3rds, so the lens is a 40mm Full Frame equivalent. I have that lens on the GX7 90% of the time.

[magnusonsubie]

Nice work on your VF52 install! Definitely jealous of the headers and having a backup car! Can't believe I just found this thread though! I forget the outback subforum exists outside the picture threads!

[Rhitter]

Nice work on your VF52 install! Definitely jealous of the headers and having a backup car! Can't believe I just found this thread though! I forget the outback subforum exists outside the picture threads!

 

It's where we go to hide from the big meanies in the other forums.

[magnusonsubie]

It's where we go to hide from the big meanies in the other forums.

:lol: your own little corner to hide in.

[rebourne]

Sometimes I go there to rock back n forth and sing to myself. Not very loud though, just kind of a mumble. Edited April 18, 2016 by rebourne

[rebourne]

Finally drove the car on the freeway today. So far it'd just been around the block. Close enough I could walk home.

 

First obsevation, which backs up the around the block drives: Apparently my STI Up-pipe had some heat shield rattles and that was the source of much of the angry raspyness of my exhaust sound. Because it's gone now.

 

Second, the throttle response is quick! Like I installed an ultra light fly wheel quick! Just whips up when I touch the gas. This is pre-boost throttle positions.

 

The header sounds so good! Smooth, glorious and still angry. And the whole exhaust still falls to a near hush between 2700-3700ish. Easy to listening to the stereo at 75mph.

 

I have to listen hard for the whooshy whooshy of the GS Intake, as it seems to want to make noise at the same time as the mufflers... funny how that works.

 

It's strong! I'm not detecting any lag compared to the old turbo and stock exhaust manifold. I'm running the Cobb OTS Stage2 (ACN) + SF tune, and it's all right. Much more stumbly that it was a couple weeks ago before I swapped everything. Sometimes idle wants to drop too low and the ecu autoblips it up to 1500+ rpms. Needs a tune, but it's okay right now. Trying to stay out of it, but the numbers I'm tracking all look good. I'm not skilled at that part of the monitoring, yet, though. Hit 16.75 psi, which is a bit over target for that OTS tune.

 

More later, and eventually some sound clips.

Edited April 12, 2016 by rebourne
2700-3700 rpm

[magnusonsubie]

Once you get it properly tuned I'm sure you'll hear the intake. It really is something else! It makes such beautiful sounds. Find a hill to go up and just give it partial throttle to build boost then lift and repeat. Most fun to be had with the intake.

[rebourne]

Did a partial WOT log today, just from 2500-5500. First time I floored it. Felt good, no knock or anything scary on the AP. Looked at the logs, and I'm hitting 83% IDC at the top of the run, lol. And 17.5 psi @ 3500. Even if leaning it out for power, there isn't much injector left.

 

Wideband options are being discussed, which will allow tuning with the 740s.

 

Wish I'd picked up 850s though... hrmm...

[rebourne]

Added a (untuned) virtual dyno comparison with the new parts to the first page. Second one down on post 6.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5195687&postcount=6

[rebourne]

Installed the SteamSpeed EBCS today.

 

 

 

 

[rebourne]

Spent some more money on parts for the tuning...

[Rhitter]

Which wideband did you get?

[rebourne]

LC2, tuner's preference.

[rebourne]

Radiator popped the top cap ( plastic upper section), if I've assessed it correctly. Replacement should arrive today. Nothing fancy, another plastic topped unit via Amazon Prime. TYC 2778 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYR5LK/]Amazon.com: TYC 2778 Subaru 1-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator: Automotive[/ame]

 

LC2 arrived.

 

850cc in the mail.

 

Waiting on a fuel filter, so I can install the fuel pump.

Edited April 30, 2016 by rebourne