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rebourne's '06 OBXT build thread


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Subtle solutions emailed me that they were out of stock of 3/4" spacers and asked if I wanted to wait until they made more. Nope, refunded. Found them in stock at RallySportDirect and had them overnighted. I'd like to get them installed on Thursday and then aligned on Friday. I don't want to ruin these nice Michelins.

 

Rally Sport and UPS killed it and the spacers were at my door by 10am. I'll spare you the learning curve, but installing the second one took 1/4 the time of the first one. As usual.

 

Turns out the 3/8" spacer I had in the rear was really 1/4" (caliper verified). Thus the new 3/4" spacer is a 1/2" taller, a bit more than the 3/8" taller I was hoping for. But as you'll see, it's a happy accident:

35759909841_4b37489465_b.jpg

 

 

 

Install photos:

 

Grinded the rubber with whatever bit was on my dremel to clear the Subtle Solution bolt heads:

35759912261_b623d68368_b.jpg

 

Gap for the bolt head:

35051721854_40b7e75db5_b.jpg

 

Bolt snugged in #1:

35051723314_b85bf37d96_b.jpg

 

Bolt snugged in #2:

35850542016_02c520975f_b.jpg

 

Spacer in place:

35051720414_738e08169f_b.jpg

 

So much metal macro shot:

35850542016_02c520975f_b.jpg

 

A couple shots of how it came out:

35759906511_d87efe68c7_b.jpg

 

35051743584_52687f3dba_b.jpg

 

^^^ This pic shows where I feel it's a happy accident. Before the 3/4" spacer, the top of the rear was sucking in due to camber, despite the Whiteline camber bushing. I was even running a 5mm rear wheel spacer to try to balance out the F/R look, due to the rear camber. But now, with this 3/4" spacer the camber front to rear looks great, without the wheel spacer. I still need to get it aligned, but it probably won't change, since I think the rear camber is max positive.

 

 

Front vs Rear:

Front:

35850557376_fa8a383ffe_b.jpg

 

Rear:

35850560046_53f6db6b97_b.jpg

 

more pics in the beauty thread.

Edited by rebourne
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  • 3 weeks later...
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Found a super simple system to remove old wheel weight adhesive and build up, from this video https://youtu.be/cy4GcDZ1GBw.

 

Had this all over my wheels:

36387073346_4c7de43502_b.jpg

 

The magic elixir:

36295564581_785175729c_b.jpg

 

36035848300_3e34448099_b.jpg

 

Spray it on, wait a few seconds:

36035848100_04ddac85ac_b.jpg

 

Starts to slide right off with a plastic scraper:

35624713373_f2f82fe376_b.jpg

 

Spray some on a paper towel and rub off any remaining residue:

35624713153_81e6bcf19c_b.jpg

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thanks!

 

It looks stock ish in pictures, but IRL it has that matte dip look, even with 3 cans of the metalizer. When I first pulled it out of the garage it looked blueish even. A hint of gunmetal blue. I like it, don't think I love it.

 

6 hours total, with all the 15 minute breaks between coats, and being my first time. Not including the clean up prepping. Man... Not sure I'll do that again. The DYC video suggested 3 light coats, then 3 thick coats of the metalizer, and I did 6 coats of the base black, because I think I did them too light at 5 coats, since I had so much left over. Added one more thick coat. And someday I'll have to spend time to remove it.

 

I think it was worth my time. I haven't formed my final judgement yet.

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thanks!

 

It looks stock ish in pictures, but IRL it has that matte dip look, even with 3 cans of the metalizer. When I first pulled it out of the garage it looked blueish even. A hint of gunmetal blue. I like it, don't think I love it.

 

6 hours total, with all the 15 minute breaks between coats, and being my first time. Not including the clean up prepping. Man... Not sure I'll do that again. The DYC video suggested 3 light coats, then 3 thick coats of the metalizer, and I did 6 coats of the base black, because I think I did them too light at 5 coats, since I had so much left over. Added one more thick coat. And someday I'll have to spend time to remove it.

 

I think it was worth my time. I haven't formed my final judgement yet.

 

it looks great. cheaper, easier and quicker than paint or powdercoat, and great results.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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I took Monday off, in order to work on this without interruption. In that sense, my time was free. But I also used a vacation day. Couldn't help myself and did the math in my head on my work hourly rate against all the time I had invested, including clean up, filing down the rough rash spots (which i could have spent hours on if I wanted close to perfection), prepping and tearing down the work area, and the dip process, and got pretty close to a new set of non JDM wheels....
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I took Monday off, in order to work on this without interruption. In that sense, my time was free. But I also used a vacation day. Couldn't help myself and did the math in my head on my work hourly rate against all the time I had invested, including clean up, filing down the rough rash spots (which i could have spent hours on if I wanted close to perfection), prepping and tearing down the work area, and the dip process, and got pretty close to a new set of non JDM wheels....

 

but those "new" wheels would have needed 6 hours of plasti-dipping to get them the color you wanted... :spin:

 

And i used to count my time as free until i had a kid. now i find value in the time i have and most often find that hiring someone to do most of the work is worth it.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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you know, you guessed right... for one of the wheel styles I want, I was thinking I would dip the centers...

 

And on free time, exactly. kids. But I did want to learn the dip thing. See how time consuming it is, how much it covers/hides. And now that I know that dip process, for the look I went for I could maybe shave off one or two coats... so can't really be done in much less time. although in the 15 minute drying windows, I did get a ton done around the house. :lol:

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update on things:

 

Loving the "hyper silver" dip on the wheels, although I'd call it gunmetal grey. Seems to be holding up.

 

My oil usage is up, but my commute time is up to, by about 30% do to leaving early for work. Same mileage, just more stop n go to get there. Makes it's hard to compare, so I am checking it more frequently. Could be a slight leak, or the PCV is a known oil culprit. Cold side of the VF52 was bone dry. Part of me was hoping to see oil so I could start the turbo upgrade ball rolling. :D

 

Clutch is hanging in there.

 

Frickin AC is cutting out and staying out until the car cools down. Hopefully just needs a recharge. Haven't had time to look into DIY recharge or having a shop give it a health check before charging it. Leaning towards the latter... but scared of the cost.

 

But on the plus side, the car feels noticeably faster with the AC off. Thank fully it's been low 70s lately.

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  • 5 months later...

Long overdue update:

 

Car has been sitting on an off. Why?

 

warm/hot weather: The AC not working in warm/hot weather, and blowing hot even when it was 60s outside. I think there is a heater flap somewhere under there that isn't closing all the way. When it rained, the windows would fog, and I couldn't get it to defog with any setting. It was super dangerous.

 

cold weather: horrific screeches from the throw out bearing. (That took some diagnosing, panic and freaking out. Imagine my relief when I touched the clutch gently and the noise went away...)

 

So warm? miserable to drive. cold? sounds like i am destroying it. And thus I was driving a 20 year old Acura instead...

 

Got two quotes for the AC. One was $1500 and replaced darn near everything. The other was just under $1100. Went with the latter, as they seemed to be diagnosing it correctly as opposed to throwing the book at it. Compressor was leaking slightly (infrared test), a relay was flaky (probably the real culprit), belt, recharge and some ancillary junk that has to be replaced when you expose the AC system to air.

 

We did take it to the mountains for snowboarding last week, and the TOB was not happy on cold start, but it's the only car we have with snowboard racks. Bad noises go away as it warms up. Poor snout.

 

Replacement clutch install is scheduled for 3/20.

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I went to AQ Motorsports with a short list of clutches I had researched and an open mind to what he might recommend outside of that. He talked me into the ACT HD (HDSS). He says they used to have too heavy a clutch pedal, but they have been improving it, and it's really good. He said the Exedy Stage1 probably won't hold the power and will be stiffer. And said the Spec2+ is more than I would need, going to be stiffer, and not as smooth. He was very confident, and installs tons of clutches in Subarus for guys that drive SoCal freeways...

 

Fingers crossed.

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Totally forgot to post this. Back in November I installed Project Mu NS400s all the way around. These are the low dust ones.

 

Front: PS4F914

Rear: PS4R914

 

Project Mu NS400s and Centric Rotors

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=263014&stc=1&d=1520981778

 

 

Pro Tip

Pull this bolt out:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=263015&stc=1&d=1520981778

 

 

And use it to get the rotor to pop off the hub:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=263016&stc=1&d=1520981778

 

Don't forget to put it back!

 

Pretty!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=263017&stc=1&d=1520981778

 

I really like them. I think they are great street pads. And true to the promise, they dust very little! Stop much better than whatever junk was on there. Didn't transform my pedal feel into STI or anything. It's still just OBXT parts on there. Every time I am cleaning the buckets of brake dust off our Evo, I tell myself I got to get a set of these for it.

 

thumbs up.

recommended (ymmv).

MVIMG_20171113_123137.thumb.jpg.5ca157290f411d2fe6a8c1c8d2809d7a.jpg

MVIMG_20171113_152035.thumb.jpg.3bf35bacda474fbf865390eda5d5f5fe.jpg

MVIMG_20171113_152047.thumb.jpg.d6257c99249fa6599a83af3e551e5f07.jpg

MVIMG_20171113_153907.thumb.jpg.53467699da48e8e8aaa0b292803bd88e.jpg

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Clutch and flywheel is installed. So far the clutch is amazing! It picks up higher off the floor, and in a good way. Perfectly progressive initial grab. If it's stiffer, I can't tell. I think it feels slightly softer, or maybe that's because I don't have to bury the pedal into the floor mat, like with the worn out one. The engagement range is perfect. Zero issues in freeway slow n go. And this can handle 400+ ft lbs (crank)?! And last 60k+ miles or more! Super happy with it. Zero chatter, and I just pulled out of the shop with zero drama.

 

And the LW flywheel is pretty transparent when driving the car mildly. Haven't driven in anger yet, so I'll report back.

 

It was 10% off at RallySportDirect when I bought it, and I all said and done installed for under $1100.

 

ACT Heavy Duty Performance Street Clutch Kit - Subaru WRX 2006+

Manufacturer Part # SB11-HDSS

Edited by rebourne
updated LWF notes
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Will be interesting to see how this clutch lasts. My Exedy OEM replacement works fine. But I haven't hammered it lately. I hope to do at least one (probably only one) track day this year.

 

Once / if it fails I'll have to decide if I have saved up enough for a 6 speed or if I just scrap that idea and stick with my 5speed which is fine.

 

I have the NS400 pads to swap out once my stoptechs die.

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report back in 1k on the clutch breakin. just letting you know that someones interested.

 

i also have lugging. maybe O2... interesting.

 

If you have a Cobb or BTSSM it's easy to see. Add AF to the monitors, and when the surging happens, when you should be in closed loop, you'll see the AF oscillating. When I catch it early, it's range is something like 13-16, when it should be holding steady at 14.something. When it's totally gone, it swings rapidly 11 to 20 (max in both ranges) and the surging is ridiculous. Basically it's sweeping the entire voltage range, like a steady frequency oscillation.

 

Right now it's only surging between 2ishK and 3ishK, and not wildly.

Edited by rebourne
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Swapped out to a new Denso O2 last night. (Huzzah to 24hr Autozone that had one in stock!)

 

No more surging, and in the rain today I was able to focus entirely on idiots and my safe driving. The newness of whole clutch/LFW package was completely imperceptible. Just easy to drive and intuitive.

 

On that note... that's O2 sensor #4 #5.

 

Timeline:

4/08/16 128570 VF52, ELH, and primitive skidplate installed

8/03/16 ~132000 installed 850cc DWs

2/06/17 ~137000 Started E85 etuning

3/18/17 138366 oem O2 failed, replaced with Denso

6/23/17 141059 Denso failed, replaced with Bosch (2693 miles)

6/30/17 141177 switched back to 91 octane

10/24/17 143864 PCV replaced

11/6/17 143927 Bosch failing, replaced with used Denso (2868 miles)

3/21/18 145874 Denso failing, replaced with new Autozone Denso (1947 miles)

9/23/18 150124 Replaced turbo, reset ECU. Learning to idle and not die mode

9/26/18 150151 Denso failing, replaced with new Autozone free exchange Denso (4277 miles)

1/11/20 160094 Denso failing, replaced with new Denso from Amazon (9943 miles)

 

 

Ruled out:

E85 cleaning out the crud inside: it has happened twice on 91

Coolant: Not loosing coolant, so should't be from anti-freeze or headgasket leak

PCV: replaced

Turbo: rebuilt

Injectors: New ID 1050 top feeds installed

 

 

Possible reasons:

oil fouling?

exposure to the elements due to the skidplate and no under plastic?

???

 

I need to learn how to test the sensors and should try some of the cleaning techniques.

Edited by rebourne
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