rebourne Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 Radiator swapped out. Happy to say one of the easier things I've done on the Subie. Went with the TYC 13091 from Amazon. One of the nuts needed to be run through with a tap. Other than that everything was perfectly aligned and near as good as OEM as I can tell. The upper hose was crushed, and had the plastic bits partially blocking tube. The leak might have actually been coming from the hose. I'll never know, so not worrying about it. But if you want to point a finger at all aluminum radiators over plastic end tanks, well, here ya go, point away. Nice shot of the Invidia header down there too. Boring picture of installed radiator: The nut I had to tap: Filled, burped, drove around, topped off. Will check again after the next drive. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Was down on power and had a stumble at WOT 3-4k. But otherwise seemed fine. But kinda slow. Virtual Dyno run was over 40 hp down. Looked and looked and eventually found it. Line off the intake manifold to the FPR had popped off. Zip tied it. Zip tied the other side too. Much better after the magic zip tie! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) DW65c fuel pump and new fuel filter installed. I followed RooTBeer's guide, and the 08 WRX DeatschWerks pdf: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/deatschwerks-dw300c-fuel-pump-w-install-kit-install-245408.html http://www.deatschwerks.com/images/stories/products/fuelpump/08%20Subaru%20DW65c%20Fuel%20Pump%20Installation%20Guide.pdf If I can find a part number for the fuel pump spacer that goes between the O-ring and the fuel pump, then replacing the fuel filter is an even bigger win. Because the only reason you need to get the OEM pump out of the fuel filter is to harvest that spacer. I had a heck of time getting the OEM fuel pump out, and if I had ordered that spacer I would have saved 20 minutes and a few curse words. Edited May 8, 2016 by rebourne pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) Wide Band install: Innovative Motorsports LC-2 The small side of the sensor cable is really not that small. 5/8" by 1/2" I chose the big grommet on the passenger side firewall to push it through. A flat head screw driver helped to harmlessly pop it out. Pulled off enough of the black tape to expose the end of the grommet's sleeve. Rolled the sleeve back, and used a big screwdriver to create a path for the sensor plug to slide next to. Lubed up the cable lightly with some silicon gel. Attached the end to the fish tape and aimed for daylight. A little bit more lube and a flat head reseated the grommet. Re-taped the sleeve, and it looks nice and clean. No holes cut, and should be easy to reverse. Man, removing the glove box is a beatch! Anyways, all set up. Check out my temporary, I have commitment issues, gauge mount: Edited May 13, 2016 by rebourne pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Whelp, we're done tuning the stock injectors. The car feels crazy good, but the Virtual Dyno numbers haven't been impressive. The reality of Cali 91 and stock injectors. I'm hoping to get a quiet night soon where I can do a few runs on the same strip of private road to run through a few different maps. Then... We are discussing doing a 91 tune on some 850cc I have picked up, and following that with an E85 tune. The E85 tune should really show what the header and VF52 can do. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Whelp, we're done tuning the stock injectors. The car feels crazy good, but the Virtual Dyno numbers haven't been impressive. The reality of Cali 91 and stock injectors. Eh, virtual dyno is pretty noisy/generalized. And a well tuned, great feeling car on the butt dyno is what really matters. Can't wait to hear about the bump from 550 to 850, and then to e85. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 @Rebourne are you tuning for e85 on the 850ccs? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Do you mind posting the graphs? You've got me dreading the #s when I max out my stock fueling. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 @Rebourne are you tuning for e85 on the 850ccs? Yeah. 850 should be enough injector to conservatively get 23-24psi out of the VF52 on e85. Do you mind posting the graphs? You've got me dreading the #s when I max out my stock fueling. It feels great, very responsive, good pull to the top. It's making 15psi at redline, where it was high 11s on the Cobb state 2 map. And holds 18-19 from 3400-5000. There's nothing to dread in that! Or I have a set of never used DW 740s I could sell you! I got them for a steal and I'd pass that along. With 740s the turbo becomes the limiting factor on pump. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 lol, for me, 18 tapering to 15 sounds like plenty. but mine's purely a DD family car. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 lol, for me, 18 tapering to 15 sounds like plenty. but mine's purely a DD family car. It's "quick". It's not fast. I eventually need fast in my life. Unwilling to spend the money to get there at this point though. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 lol, for me, 18 tapering to 15 sounds like plenty. but mine's purely a DD family car. It's "quick". It's not fast. I eventually need fast in my life. Unwilling to spend the money to get there at this point though. It's my daily, and a family car. That's why I went with a wagon. It's the long trip car too, since the wife's EVO has a teeny trunk and much more expensive wear items. So I have to keep that in mind with the mods and tread carefully. We do have a third car, but it's just for short trips do to a couple issues I am neglecting, so I can have the wagon down for a few days at a time, but hopefully not much longer than that. My thought is that the VF52 on E85 should give me 18/20g power but with the reliability of an oem turbo. After the novelty of that tune wears off, I'll probably be on 91 most of the time. E85 would be a once in a while thing. I already average just 18mpg on my work day commute, and E85 would be 30% less than that? 12 mpg and more frequent trips to the farther away E85 station will get old fast. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Check out the scrapage on the Y pipe and the muffler tips: Road trip next weekend, so I figured I'd try swapping on the stock muffs. Pretty simple job. Most effort is getting the rubber hangers off, but some silicon spray helps a ton. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 IIRC, you're running Konis/Swifts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 IIRC, you're running Konis/Swifts? Tein H-Techs. Not as low, so a bit more travel, especially in front. 3/8" spacer in back, but should be a 1/2"-3/4" to level it out. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Tein H-Techs. Not as low, so a bit more travel, especially in front. 3/8" spacer in back, but should be a 1/2"-3/4" to level it out. I'm installing my Konis/H&R in a couple weeks, and trying to get an idea of what size tire and wheel combo I can run, without getting too crazy on the fender work. My plan is to run an 18x8.5 +35 wheel with either a 245 45 18, or a 235 45 18.The front struts have the Whiteline adjustable top hats, so I can probably dial in a little camber if need be. I think the H&R's give roughly the same drop as Tein's, about 1.3"-1.5" front and rear. Any ideas, thoughts, opinions? Futureficus's setup is exactly what I'm hoping for, but he's on LGT suspension, so he's a tad higher. I was thinking about putting stock Legacy springs on the Konis, and just selling the H&R's, but after talking with some members, I maybe warming up to the H&R's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) The H-techs are 0.9 to 1.0 drop in front. I'd like to drop the front 0.25 to match the rear, but not 0.5 more. I've been keeping my eye out for a used set of springs that'll get me there, but there's not much in that drops 1.1-1.25. Seems like it's less or more. Make sure you double check your front bump stops. Do you have legacy bump stops? From my research the OB uses a taller bump stop, so be sure to swap that out. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/legacy-front-bump-stop-part-numberi-243002.html?t=243002 If I do swap front springs I'll be trying a different front bump stop. The shorter one Eibach specs for FRS when using their springs. Since FRS uses the same bump stop as a Legacy, should give a bit more travel! But that also means a wider tire / higher ET wheel might touch something. It's a VW/Audi part number: 1J0412303 I have stock Legacy springs in the garage... Wanna trade? LOL, I'd run the front H&R with a thin spacer and get my 1.2x ish drop in front. Wait... I'd still want the shock travel.. I wouldn't run a front spacer. nvm, Edited May 31, 2016 by rebourne pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) I'm currently lowered on Legacy GT suspension, so whatever front bump stop is up there, is what I have. I've never done anything with the front bump stop before, just swapped the rear over to a Legacy bump stop when installing the Legacy suspension. Edit: forgot to mention, these are pre-assembled. Plug n play, so I don't have to do the cut-a-strut job. Edited May 31, 2016 by housemusic1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Nice. Slam dunk then. Mine were plug n play on Koni's on LGTs. Wasn't low enough, or firm enough, so I threw the dice on the Htechs. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Nice. Slam dunk then. Mine were plug n play on Koni's on LGTs. Wasn't low enough, or firm enough, so I threw the dice on the Htechs. Yeah, it will be a nice little upgrade in ride quality. Unfortunately, that means I will have to get new winter tires, since my stock 225 55 17's already rub at full lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acerguy Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Edit: forgot to mention, these are pre-assembled. Plug n play, so I don't have to do the cut-a-strut job. Curious, where did you come across them pre-assembled? I'm considering the Koni route myself and not that I have a problem with cutting a strut, if I don't have to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Curious, where did you come across them pre-assembled? I'm considering the Koni route myself and not that I have a problem with cutting a strut, if I don't have to... Pure luck. Found a member that was selling his Legacy GT, because it was collecting dust. He demodded it prior to sale, and I jumped on the Konis, in exchange for my stock Legacy suspension (had an extra set in the garage) and some cash on my end. <1K miles on the setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Similar story here: picked mine up off a member here that was going back to stock to trade in his car. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acerguy Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Well good to know! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) Put the Pro Tuning Labs cans back on, and made a sound clip. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxNFPQdkVco]2006 Outback XT, Muffler back exhuast clip - YouTube[/ame] Just the mufflers on the stock mid and Y. Invidia ELH, Cobb catted DP, and GS intake are the relevant mods. Seems louder at 6k than the phone makes it out to be. Kinda shrieks. Only took about 30 minutes, including pictures and kid wrangling, thanks to anti-seize and my secret weapon for the hangers: Here's some more detailed pics of the hangers that make these Legacy fit mufflers fit the Outback with no rubbing or melting. 3" hanger for the rear most (nearest to the bumper) hanger on left and right side. 2.5" hanger on the left side, nearest to the wheel. OEM hanger on the right side, nearest to the wheel. 2.5" hanger at the Y pipe. Edited June 20, 2016 by rebourne pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now