Scruit Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Woohoo! I mean DOH. History: 145k on engine. Infamous tuned to 16psi. Puked the factory turbo last month and I've been rocking a BNR 16g for a couple of weeks now, still in the etune stage (which is on hold now, of course). Getting home from work yesterday I noticed a new ticking noise under the driver's side head #4. Could be valves adjustment going out. Given the recent turbo failure it is much more likely to be a bad #4 bearing. The Compression numbers are ok for its age at 120-135. Leakdown in the 20-30% range with #4 being to worst for both of those tests. So, #YNANSB. Going with all factory parts . Already have an UP, DP and 16G. Not going to do anything fancy with forged pistons etc - just a new Subaru EJ255 SB Goal: Just replace the SB, rebuild the heads and keep my existing mods. No new mods intended during the swap. EJ255 short block priced at $1800. About to pull the trigger unless anyone has any reason I shouldn't Already spoke with a machine shop that has extensive experience with Subarus, and they quoted me $360 to rebuild both heads. Gonna drive home then park Scrappy for an extended period of time, looks like. I have alternate transportation so I'm not going to rush. This is probably the 10th engine swap I've done, so I'm confident it'll go well - just need to learn the idiosyncrasies of the Subaru engine as my other swaps have been ford, pontiac, nissan and toyota. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/rabbit_hole.png Let's see how deep this rabbit hole goes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 2, 2015 Moderators Share Posted June 2, 2015 Sorry to hear, good luck! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 You have my thread in the click here link in my sig that tells how to do it. Ask your machine shop how much they will charge to disassemble the old long block, do the heads and give you back a complete long block, timing belt and oil pan on. Remove both banjo filters. Let the experts do what they do every day. Replace heater hoses, grounds and coolant lines, oh check the coolant crossover tube to oil cooler, you might want to replace the cooler too. You had a turbo let go a few weeks back. New oil pump too. Bolt the turbo to the up pipe, how is your turbo inlet tube ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 If it is bearing damage, definitely replace the oil cooler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Oh, yes. Anything that gets wet will be new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Parts listing: Can anyone see anything really obvious I'm missing? Subaru Parts 1 TP50 Socket Amazon On hand 10 2 Full gasket set Subaru On hand 226 3 Coolant Autozone On hand 4 Oil & filter Autozone On hand 5 Coolant Hose set? Subaru Needed 6 10mm impact socket+ Amazon On hand 10 7 Pilot busing Subaru On hand 9 8 Shortblock Subaru On hand 1800 9 Timing set Dayco On hand 216 10 Cam gear tool Amazon On hand 100 11 Clutch friction plate Subaru On hand 125 12 TOB Subaru Ordered 38 13 Crossover pipe? Subaru Not needed 14 Oil pump Amazon On hand 126 15 Oil Cooler Subaru Shipped 205 16 Turbo Intake Hose? Subaru 17 Half-moon seals? Subaru 18 Head Machining M&M Scheduled 360 19 ARP Studs Amazon Ordered 185 Total so far 3410 First group of parts & tools: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2897.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 PM underdog for ARP head studs. Do Not use the bolts. Get bolts to bolt the turbo on the up pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 Edited parts list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2886.jpg Managed to evict a couple of vehicles that were taking up floor space in my workshop and do a bit of a cleanup so I have plenty of area for the work. Moved my '74 MGB into the barn and put my Bronco back to work as Daily Driver Duty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Ready?...Begin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Disclaimer: I'm not a certified tech - the process below may be wrong - it's just me figuring it out as I go along. Day one (very short day!): - Raise the car to drain fluids - Drain the engine oil 17 mm wrench - Remove the oil filter to empty it out - Drain the cooling system by opening the lower hose - Put the oil drain plug and oil filter back in place to prevent further leaks - Remove the plastic engine cover - Remove the intercooler bolts and disconnect hoses connected to it 12 mm wrench and 5/16 socket. Remove the intercooler. - Remove the two engine mount nuts underneath the crossmember 14 mm - Remove the two ground straps from the heads to the frames 10 mm - Remove the 14 mm bolts supporting the center of the downpipe. - Disconnect the rear oxygen sensor - Lower the car back down and let the rest of the coolant drain out - Support the hood vertically for access - Remove the hood prop and snorkel - Disconnect the electrical connections for both fans, both bottom corners - Disconnect the top radiator hose and two smaller hoses to the remote coolant reservoir from the radiator - Remove the top rear coolant line from the remote coolant reservoir then remove the 12 mm bolt holding it on. Tilt the reservoir to the passenger side and disconnect the lower rear coolant hose. Remove the remote coolant reservoir - Disconnect the mass air flow sensor. Loosen the air intake hose from the filter and remove. Also remove the filter slide of the airbox. - Remove the hood prop mount above the radiator - Remove both the top radiator mounts - Lift the entire radiator assembly fans and coolant reservoir as a single unit and remove - Disconnect battery negative terminal then positive terminal then remove battery and tray - Loosen top coolant hose at the engine and remove - Remove transmission dipstick - Disconnect brown multiplug next to Dogbone - Loosen the 12 mm lock nut on the alternator and power steering belt adjuster then loosen the adjuster as much as possible and then remove the belt - Loosen the 12 mm lock nut on the front of the air conditioning belt adjuster then loosen the adjuster all the way and remove the belt - Disconnect the lower coolant hose on the engine side and remove Time so far: 1 hour. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2891.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Engine swap day 2 - Remove exhaust gas temperature sensor 14mm - Remove the bolt from the engine cover mount closest to the PAS pump 10 mm - Remove the alternator tensioner assembly 12 mm - Disconnect alternator electrical connections 12 mm - Disconnect the AC compressor electrical connection and lay the alternator cables over towards the driver's fender - Remove the long 12 mm bolt that the alternator pivots on (keeping track of the nut welded on to a bracket at the back) then remove the engine cover mount - Remove the alternator then press the bushing back into the rear mount just a mm or two to give me clearance for re-installation - Remove the compressor adjuster assembly / two 12 mm nuts - Remove compressor and mount as a unit and tuck into the driver's side fender - Remove the turbo oil line (Mine is FP) - Disconnect vacuum line at brake booster - Remove the two bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder and move it out the way towards the firewall - Remove the three bolts holding the power steering pump mount 12 mm. long bolt is closest to the crank pulley in the front. - Disconnect the little white electrical connector on top of the pump. - Lay the power steering pump on the fender on the passenger side Time today: 30 minutes Time so far: 1.5 hours Note - these steps are being captured by voice recognition. If something above makes no sense then it may have captured wrong. Let me know. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2896.jpg Oh, and found this little gem during the work: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2895.jpg Looks like the tech who did the timing belt at 105k was unable to get this gasket to sit flat so he just left is twisted up like this. This is the same dealer than had to spend 2 days on my valve cover gaskets for the same reason - they got twisted up during installation. The same valve cover job that resulted in one of my coil multiplugs being damaged and secured by a zip tie and RTV instead of the detent. Figured that out a year later, too late to complain. The loose random bolt in the top left was dropped there during a period repair and left there. The older I get the more I learn about the difference between "professional" work and that guy who gets shit done right. When you find that rare someone who gets shit done right you make sure you always go back to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmonsbm33 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Just here to subscribe. Good luck. I'm looking to pull my engine in a month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Day 3. Engine is out. (voice recognition notes, so excuse anything that doesn't make sense) - Disconnect the vacuum line on the driver side of the intake manifold underneath the fuel lines - Remove the oil filler neck. 3 10 mm bolts. Long bolts go on filler neck, short bolt goes to support. - Depressurize fuel system - Disconnect three fuel lines. I loosened them at the hose clamps, not the quick release. - Disconnect the large multi-plug next to the turbo and remove it from the mount so that the engine side of the multiplug can go with the engine. This can be done by inserting a screwdriver into a tab underneath the multi plug from the front of the engine applying pressure to the tab downloads and then sliding the multi-plug off the mount towards the driver side - Disconnect the front oxygen sensor from the mount - Remove the five nuts and bolts that hold the downpipe to the back of the turbo unload the downpipe onto some kind of support - Disconnect the ground near the starter 12 mm - Loosen the top two bell housing bolts 14 mm - Disconnect the starter solenoid input wire underneath the starter and remove the remaining bell housing bolts and nuts leaving the top two in place - Remove the starter motor positive cable - Remove the top Bell housing bolt at the starter motor leaving the other top bell housing bolt in place - Remove the starter motor - Remove the nut and bolt from the engine end of the dog bone then loosen the firewall end of the dog bone. Lift it up and then re-tighten the bolt on the firewall end to keep it up out of the way - Loosen the bolts holding the turbo to the up-pipe and make sure the turbo is loose - Attach engine hoist. I used the ring mount on the back, and one of the compressor mount bolts - Remove the last bell housing bolt - Yank that sucker out of there. The most difficult bit is getting it off the two studs AND clearing the turbo at the same time. Lesson learned: next time I do this I'm going to attach the chains to the engine in all 4 corners. The hangup was the UP flange and mount at the turbo end, not necessarily the turbo itself. Time today: 2 hours. Total so far: 3.5 hours. Next steps: Strip the engine down to the short block. Take the head to the machine shop. Maybe strip the SB down to confirm the specific failure, but only if it doesn't slow down my progress. Engine on the stand: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2898.jpg A note on organizing the work: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 9, 2015 Moderators Share Posted June 9, 2015 Pulled the motor in 3.5hrs total, all while making voice notes? Holy hell, nice work. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 I second the 4 corners idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 If you want to disassemble the VVT sprockets you will need a 5 lobe T-10 bit. I got mine from Pep Boys for $5. Maybe that's pictured or is that the 10mm impact socket listed? Opps I mean T-30, the 10mm impact socket got me cornfuzed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 I have a TP50 and a 10mm hex key. 5-lobe t10? News to me. Thanks for the heads-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 So explain further - Do I need the 5-point t10 to get the heads off the engine? Where is the t10 fastener? EDIT: Is it these 6 fasteners? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Sorry it is a t-30. I probably should edit above. I did find some crap inside my sprockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Here is a sticky in the Turbo Powertrain section from Underdog : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-request-avcs-related-problem-131462.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 No probs - I ordered a 5-point set that also has a T30. (Figured t10 was small). As long as it doesn't get in the way of me pulling the heads off then I'm ok with it. I can work on the sprocket while the heads are being machined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 9, 2015 Moderators Share Posted June 9, 2015 Pulling the heads off requires 12-points I think. No torx. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 That is tonight's mission. Need to get the heads to the machine shop in the morning - that's the critical path right now. I suspect they'll have the heads for a few days to a week, then it'll be time to plug it all back together. I can use that time to clean up and/or media blast the components, inventory and order replacement coolant/vacuum hoses as needed, thread-chase all the fasteners and bolt holes, check and clean out the AVCS sprockets and strip the SB down for a final Dx. Also need to ship the turbo back to BNR for a once-over to make sure it's still good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Is it wrong of me to say I actually enjoyed pulling the engine? It was as easy as any engine pull I've ever done. Don't get me wrong - spending the money and burning up the time is some top-shelf major league suckage... But the removal process was basically painless. No frustration, just burning through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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