fahr_side Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 On older cars I'd unplug the coil pack and pull the fuel pump fuse. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 Got my Blackstone report back. This was after I removed the turbo to fix the oil return hose leak and I managed to convince myself that the bearings were bad. I sent the turbo to Bryan at BNR and an oil sample to Blackstone. Bryan said the bearings were in great shape and showed no signs of starvation or contamination. This is backed up by the oil report: It does not appear the bearing problem made it into the oil - at least not any microscopic metal. The oil filter may have caught larger stuff; from what we're seeing in the 2-15 micron range, the oil is still clean. This was a longer run than the last and copper and silicon both improved. The FP oil line filter screen was clean too. The low oil pressure will be dealt with by bumping my idle speed. Dave at Cryotune already took care of that for me. So, back to assembling everything. Tonight I removed and heat-wrapped the CNT catted downpipe. The Invidia catless up-pipe is already wrapped. I have a turbo blanket to install when the turbo goes in. I have a new oil pressure gauge to install - much nicer one with a 270deg sweep instead of 90deg, (cost $100 instead of $25) and it uses a much smaller sender so I can dispense with the oil pressure sender relocation kit. I also just plumbed the sensor of a vacuum/boost gauge (same company, 270deg sweep from 30" to 30psi) so I just need to finish running the wires into the dash area and then hook them up. I rechecked all my vacuum lines, all look good. Next step is to put the turbo back in. Given the condition reports on the turbo, oil and engine it looks like I'm back on track. I *really* wish this was a project car, not my DD. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 I *really* wish this was a project car, not my DD. Oh well. Been thinking this more and more lately. A comparatively reliable used 124 Spider can't come soon enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 19, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 19, 2016 How much RTV to use? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNlghZi21Wk Did you ever do more testing on this? Looks like you still had too much RTV there, what was the "solution"? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 There is a second video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7W28wd8Z624 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Scruit, I've been using your step-by-step list on my rebuild and it's been extremely helpful! Thanks a thousand times over for documenting everything so carefully. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Quick update. 7500 miles on the engine, all is well. No more leaks or concerns of any kind with the engine. Just had it serviced at the dealership today and the only issues noted as a leak on a front axle seal (aftermarket driveshaft - never again. Subaru driveshaft will go in next week) and every couple of months I get the catalyst efficiency code. I have a catless UP so that's not a surprise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Disable the code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 I may do that if it becomes bothersome. The dealership did a full "mode 6" test and it passed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 I've been told that all 2005 axles for legacy's are the same. so you can buy a OEM reman. Also was told dealers won't sell you a reman if you tell them you have GT. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 The dealership did a full "mode 6" test and it passed. What does that mean? Check for any mods in the ROM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 What does that mean? Check for any mods in the ROM? A 25 minute drive cycle check graphing out fuel trims and O2 sensor data. They knew my car was modified - the turbo and UP/DP are clearly not stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 troubleshooting some engine issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.