Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 I second the 4 corners idea. The problem with hooking up the hoist at the compressor and turbo corners is that I had very little control of angle. I had a load leveller on there but that didn't allow me any usable control of the level. On the way back in I will loosen the UP - the turbo-to-bellhousing clearance problem actually appears to be a UP mount-to-bellhousing clearance problem. I'm also going to 4-corner the hoist with the load leveller front-to-back. Getting the engine/trans separated required the engine be pulled away from the trans in a precise angle so that the UP mount cleared the bellhousing but also the lower two studs forced the engine to be removed in a straight line. With the LL set front-to-back and a loose UP I should have a much easier time of getting it back in because I can control height, front/back tilt and distance from trans. I may have to replace the studs too - looks like I borked some threads. I'll run my M10x1.25 die across them to see if I can fix them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 I found I had to jack up the rear of my car when I was putting the engine back in, keep that in mind for later on. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 I found I had to jack up the rear of my car when I was putting the engine back in, keep that in mind for later on. Do you mean raising *during* the installation itself? Or woudl it have also worked to have the back end already up on stands before putting the engine in? I have the front on stands - was already considering putting the back on stands too to level it out. I found it much easier to work on unplugging stuff while the car was on the ground, tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 It's in my thread. I know I repositioned the engine on the hoist and balancer a couple times and then it hit me, duh, jack up the back to get the tranny shaft aligned. I don't recall, may be I had changed the rear height to do something back there while the engine was out...? When I read your post, it came back to me, thought I'd post it as an FYI. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Same here what Max said on jacking the rear up, to get the face of the motor and trans parallel. But the 4 comers will allow this also, maybe. I don't remember if you got a new shortblock, but it comes with new studs. I used Max's suggestion of removing the turbo studs and leaving turbo loose during installation. It solved the clearance problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Getting a new SB, yes. Was supposed to be today. Took the day off work to be here to sign for it because it's a "Direct Signature Only" package. Woke up this morning and saw; "On truck for delivery" so I thought it would be here, commit to the day off. Ah, if only life were that simple. Apparently is should have said; "On the wrong truck for delivery". So it's headed back to the fedex location an hour's round trip from here. Can't take tomorrow off. Have to choose between them trying again tomorrow and hoping to catch my wife home - or driving down there through rush hour traffic in my wife's car to pick it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 It never ends....life always finds a way to throw you a curve ball. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 So it seems getting the engine out is just a tiny part of the whole picture. Wow, this is a complex engine. Took me an hour to get the manifold removed. Paused for a couple hours to go pick up my SB. Edit: Engine is here. 43 BB 11111 ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Big day today. A lot of steps. This is where I hope that being methodical will pay off. I'm hoping that working backwards through these lists on reassembly will ensure I don't miss anything. Voice recognition notes. If anything looks funky, let me know and I'll correct. Engine swap day 4. Starting with complete engine on stand. Goal is to strip to shortblock and get heads ready for machine shop. - Disconnect the lower coolant line to the turbo - Remove the front O2 sensor - Loosen the hose clamp on the turbo inlet 10 mm - Remove the 3 nuts holding the turbo to the up pipe - Remove the clamp holding the turbo oil return line - Disconnect the vacuum line from the engine at the tee at the turbo - Remove the turbo - Unplug the brown electrical connector at the top of the bell housing and the large multiplug just next to it - Unplug the hose that was just above the starter - Unplug the two large breed their houses on the top of both valve covers - Unplug all the electrical connections on the drivers side head. - Remove the 2 12 mm bolts holding down the ground cables on the drivers side at back of the head - Disconnect the coolant line that tees into the upper heater core line - Disconnect all the multi plugs on the passenger side head - Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor and crank position sensor immediately above the crank pulley - Disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the intake hose near the crank pulley - Remove the mount that holds the vacuum solenoid immediately above the intake hose at the front of the passenger head - Remove the 12 bolts holding the intake manifold to the throttle bodies 10 mm - Unplug the PCV valve hose from the block - Remove the vacuum valve that is connected to the intake and is also connected to the Subaru blue T at the front - Disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the fuel vent - Remove the big brown multi plug from its mount - Disconnect the fuel line immediately under the front center of the manifold - Disconnect the fuel line which is hidden behind the number two intake runner right at the throttlebody. I actually cut this house because I have spare house and it was much easier than trying to reach the clamps - Remove the 10 mm bolt holding on the dipstick and remove the dipstick tube - Remove all coil packs and spark plugs - Remove exhaust heat shield and exhaust pipes - Remove the TGV motor on the passenger side - Remove the fuel rails and injectors - Remove the last piece of the up pipe mount - Remove the clamp that holds the black tube crossover to the tube that disappears down towards the dipstick - Disconnect the black tube crossover from the block - Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the black tube crossover in place and remove the hoses - Remove the black tube crossover assembly - Remove the two bolts that hold the remote coolant reservoir mount in place and remove the mount - Remove the remaining two bolts on the coolant crossover - bearing in mind that on the passenger side only the front bolt is in place at this point and on the driver side only the rear bolt is in place. The other two bolts came out with the black tube crossover assembly - Remove both AVCS oil control valves - Remove the oil control valve feed line on the passenger side - Undo the four bolts on the top of the lower throttle bodies and remove both lower throttle bodies (Recommend reinstalling the fuel rail and lower throttle bodies as a single unit already bolted together) - Remove the turbo coolant feed lines from the back of the passenger head - Remove the knock sensor - Remove both cam position sensors - Remove the crank position sensor - Remove the oil pressure sensor deep 24 mm - Remove the mount the top of the bell housing that has the rear engine lift point - Remove the little rubber cover underneath that mount - Remove the front timing belt cover on the driver side - Remove the crank pulley bolt 22 mm and crank pulley - Remove the rest of the front timing cover bolts and timing cover - Remove the lowest pulley just to the passenger side of the crank pulley - Remove the tensioner pulley - Remove the timing belt guide over the crank pulley - Pull the sprocket off the crank - Remove the rest of the idler pullies - Remove the two exhaust can sprockets using your century 23 tool that you'd be a fool to not have - Remove the two intake cam sprocket using the century 23 tool - Remove the rear timing belt cover on both the passenger side and the driver side - Remove the thermostat housing - Disconnect the three coolant lines at the water pump - Remove the water pump - Remove the bolts that hold the coolant lines on the top of the driver side head and remove the coolant lines - Remove the oil control valve oil line on the driver side head. 17 mm - Remove passenger-side valve cover - Take gratuitous picture of dirt inside valve cover - Remove cam bearing caps - Remove the cams - Remove the head bolts - Remove the head - Remove driver-side valve cover - Remove cam bearing caps - Remove the cams - Remove the head bolts - Remove the head - Repeat for driver side - Remove the front oil pump. 3.5 hours today 7 hours total so far. Gratuitous pic of 145k of valve cover funk. All cam surfaces are pristine. Found a chunk of RTV partially blocking in the oil feed line for the passenger side exhaust cam for cylinder 3. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2915.jpg Scary looking timing belt. That's not spashes of liquid - that's melted rubber that re-hardened like that. About 40k on the belt. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2914.jpg New shortblock! Got it home despite fedex putting it on the wrong truck! http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2916.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 That's a good looking casting. Smooth. I had a belt that looked like that on the manual trans car. I had belt guides adjusted too tight or the hydraulic tension-er was bad I'm not sure which. I had changed the belt at 110k and reused the tension-er. I found the damage later, but it made it to the next change around 200k. Glad for you that the cam journals are good, the metal or poor lube damaged mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 You could have left the turbo on the engine and removed it later. Make sure you fit the tmic on, before you put the engine with turbo on it back in. Or I guess you could leave the turbo loose on the up pipe so its easy to clear the tranny going back in. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 I didn't remove the turbo until the engine was out. I loosened it on the UP tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Heads were dropped at the machine shop this morning. Tonight is going to be spent cleaning up the work area, cleaning / media blasting / painting parts as appropriate. Chasing threads on fasteners and bolt holes and taking an inventory of parts that revealed themselves to be in need of replacement during the disassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Don't forget to clean the grounds. Those two on the back of the intake manifold by the brake booster. Tighten the gas line clamps under the intake manifold. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Even with the cam holding tools, I get pretty close to rounding out the cam bolts. Took quite a bit of heft to break them free. I cannot even imagine doing it without the cam tools... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2918.jpg Everything is out and the heads/turbo are away being checked out. This is what my workshop looks like right now - trying to keep it organized because experience has taught me that the extra hour or so I spent keeping stuff together during disassembly will be paid back ten-fold when it comes to putting it back together again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Machine shop quoted $200 to put the refreshed heads and timing set on the shortblock. I'm going to keep that job myself. Looking to pick up the heads early next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Engine swap day 5 Getting the last of the parts off the old short block - Remove the oil pan - Remove the cover on the bottom of the flywheel - Remove the oil pick up - Remove windage tray - Remove both engine mounts - Remove the oil filter and the center threaded section from the oil cooler deep 24 mm socket - Remove oil cooler line from block and remove the oil cooler - Remove the fitting on the block that the oil cooler line was just removed from. Deep 24 mm - There is a mount on the front of the block at the top on the driver side that sits behind the timing belt rear cover. Remove this - Remove the flywheel Today 30 mins Total so far 7.5 hours Got the case cracked open. Ringland failure, #4 piston. Do I win the award for biggest piece of ringland debris? http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_2919.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Looks like it been broken for awhile. The rod bearing was okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Looks like it been broken for awhile. The rod bearing was okay? Rod bearing showed normal wear, same as the rest. No excessive movement noted at the bearing. The ringland failure is consistent with my high oil consumption and hesitation. Looking forward to my tune being based upon a brand new engine rather than a tired old 150k engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Rod bearing news is encouraging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Scruit since I mentioned disassembling the Cam Sprockets I feel obligated to share this with you. I had a P0018 code after running awhile. It turned out the variable cam timing sprocket on bank 2 had bound up on the cam. I noticed when I assembled the sprocket to the cam it didn't slide easily on to the cam. The 2 bores of the sprocket can be assembled non-concentric. I removed the cam and disassembled the sprocket, reassembling using an old cam to assure the concentricity. So far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 Scruit since I mentioned disassembling the Cam Sprockets I feel obligated to share this with you. I had a P0018 code after running awhile. It turned out the variable cam timing sprocket on bank 2 had bound up on the cam. I noticed when I assembled the sprocket to the cam it didn't slide easily on to the cam. The 2 bores of the sprocket can be assembled non-concentric. I removed the cam and disassembled the sprocket, reassembling using an old cam to assure the concentricity. So far so good. I have seen a special tool for aligning the sprocket. I figured I'd use the cam to check the alignment to ensure it slides on and off with no friction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Got the head back from the machine shop. Total was $340. Valves were good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Bad news on the turbo - despite using the $200 FP oil line the brand new BNR 16g turbo ingested crap and destroyed the bearings. $350 to fix. Turbo only had a few hundred miles on it, and never went into boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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