Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 For that code my mechanic removed the banjo filter and I changed the oil after a can of motor flush. The turbo lasted another 1000 miles or so. I had the code back in Feb, then the end of Feb the rear diff went. The car was on jacks until the end of July, the turbo began to whistle around Aug 22nd. That's when I replaced it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LloydXmas Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I had this code come up timing belt was off on click set the timing belt to factory specs haven't seen the CEL since been 300 miles now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Seems my engine noise IS the turbo. I tap the gas and let go and I hear a metal like flap closing so my wastegate can be tying but it still has boost. I have a faint tapping noise like sounded like piston slap at occasions but there is no blow by, smoke, consumption, all oil looks fine (it's fairly new so metal shavings would show.) and coolant is fine and all there. Either the turbo is on the way out or the tranny (which just went 6K ago through a flush. My code still turned out to be the timing belt stretched one tooth over. Main crank pulley was dying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PeteAWD Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Gentleman, I need some help. I have an 05' GT had it since it was new. The TCM went defective and simultaneously the EGT sensor went defective. Had it towed into my private tech, they switched out the TCM with one I got from a yard. Was the same exact car as mine, I cross referenced everything with the yard and they sent me the VIN as well which is on the part. Got the car back from my shop and it keeps throwing EGT high temperature. My guy replaced the sensor again, it burned out again, he said take it to the dealer, he's not sure. Dealer said they replaced and it went again. They wanted to do a leakdown test and I said no, as it was done once by my private tech and another dealer that raped me about 6 months ago. Tech said it had a "slight floating valve" on 3 which is the problem child of all these Boxer engines, however, both tests agreed that all the other cylinders had perfect pressure. Once in a blue moon I would get a CEL, and I would just reset it with my tool. Note: The oil has been changed like clockwork, conventional 5W 30 and all the maintenance is up to speed. ** I pulled codes again tonight and this is a new one in addition to the EGT temperature high and sensor high, yada yada. I'm now getting this P0021. IS IT AT ALL POSSIBLE that this is what is causing my exhaust temp to be too hot. The most recent dealer believes that that the valves are defective, however, said he wants to do a leakdown, I'm not sinking anymore money into diag at the stealership, my private tech doesn't charge me if he cannot figure it. I have a spare ACVS solenoid in my shed, but I'm thinking this is probably not it. ANYONE, any ideas, everyone is stumped. THANKS, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PeteAWD Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 p.s. The most recent dealership said my exhaust is discolored from the rich condition and they disassembled it as they thought it was a blockage or defective catalyst (which usually throws an efficiency code), they said exhaust was fine. Yes, I only run 91-93 octane. Gentleman, I need some help. I have an 05' GT had it since it was new. The TCM went defective and simultaneously the EGT sensor went defective. Had it towed into my private tech, they switched out the TCM with one I got from a yard. Was the same exact car as mine, I cross referenced everything with the yard and they sent me the VIN as well which is on the part. Got the car back from my shop and it keeps throwing EGT high temperature. My guy replaced the sensor again, it burned out again, he said take it to the dealer, he's not sure. Dealer said they replaced and it went again. They wanted to do a leakdown test and I said no, as it was done once by my private tech and another dealer that raped me about 6 months ago. Tech said it had a "slight floating valve" on 3 which is the problem child of all these Boxer engines, however, both tests agreed that all the other cylinders had perfect pressure. Once in a blue moon I would get a CEL, and I would just reset it with my tool. Note: The oil has been changed like clockwork, conventional 5W 30 and all the maintenance is up to speed. ** I pulled codes again tonight and this is a new one in addition to the EGT temperature high and sensor high, yada yada. I'm now getting this P0021. IS IT AT ALL POSSIBLE that this is what is causing my exhaust temp to be too hot. The most recent dealer believes that that the valves are defective, however, said he wants to do a leakdown, I'm not sinking anymore money into diag at the stealership, my private tech doesn't charge me if he cannot figure it. I have a spare ACVS solenoid in my shed, but I'm thinking this is probably not it. ANYONE, any ideas, everyone is stumped. THANKS, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PeteAWD Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Also, I questioned the dealer if the donor TCM needed to be re-flashed and they said "no". I called SOA and the retart told me that an 05 4sp. EAT did get a re-flash bulletin. I said they didn't make a 4sp. EAT in 05' or am I an idiot? She swore by the information in her terminal. I said, ok, ok, let me go to the Fing dealer. This issue is really frustrating, I want it fixed, I'd rather pull my fingernails out than go car shopping.......... Gentleman, I need some help. I have an 05' GT had it since it was new. The TCM went defective and simultaneously the EGT sensor went defective. Had it towed into my private tech, they switched out the TCM with one I got from a yard. Was the same exact car as mine, I cross referenced everything with the yard and they sent me the VIN as well which is on the part. Got the car back from my shop and it keeps throwing EGT high temperature. My guy replaced the sensor again, it burned out again, he said take it to the dealer, he's not sure. Dealer said they replaced and it went again. They wanted to do a leakdown test and I said no, as it was done once by my private tech and another dealer that raped me about 6 months ago. Tech said it had a "slight floating valve" on 3 which is the problem child of all these Boxer engines, however, both tests agreed that all the other cylinders had perfect pressure. Once in a blue moon I would get a CEL, and I would just reset it with my tool. Note: The oil has been changed like clockwork, conventional 5W 30 and all the maintenance is up to speed. ** I pulled codes again tonight and this is a new one in addition to the EGT temperature high and sensor high, yada yada. I'm now getting this P0021. IS IT AT ALL POSSIBLE that this is what is causing my exhaust temp to be too hot. The most recent dealer believes that that the valves are defective, however, said he wants to do a leakdown, I'm not sinking anymore money into diag at the stealership, my private tech doesn't charge me if he cannot figure it. I have a spare ACVS solenoid in my shed, but I'm thinking this is probably not it. ANYONE, any ideas, everyone is stumped. THANKS, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 P0021 and P0011, you need to remove the banjo filter on the back of the pasenger side head, flush the oil system and be ready for your turbo to start whining. When the whine changes to a whistle stop driving the car. Replace the the turbo before it blows and takes the engione with it. Trust me, been there, done that. Less the blown turbo, because I listen to the turbo. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I had the code but was a stretched timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanslo Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Great thread, I'm a happy camper. Several days ago I threw a P0021 code. I cleared it with my AP, it popped up again a couple of days later, cleared it again and it popped up a third time. Meanwhile, I bought a new OCV from Fred Beans. Installed it Sunday. So far so good. Engine idles and runs smoother and no code yet. So thanks everyone. However, I did notice that my engine layout looked different from the posted pic. The bolt on my OCV was wedged between the oil fill tube which in my car runs nearly straight up and some kind of sturdy metal heatshield or bracket or whatever it is (see comparison pic below). It was a real pain in the a$$ to reach that bolt, but at the end of the day I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entails Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 OK so i have an 05 Legacy GT automatic.. I've change my driver side oil valve control and then i took out my banjo bolt and replaced it, but now my car is idling really rough when it's not moving or during a stop light and then it throws the CEL on. and then it dies when you try to drive it or reverse it.... what can it be wrong this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InnocentGuns Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 OK so i have an 05 Legacy GT automatic.. I've change my driver side oil valve control and then i took out my banjo bolt and replaced it, but now my car is idling really rough when it's not moving or during a stop light and then it throws the CEL on. and then it dies when you try to drive it or reverse it.... what can it be wrong this time? Im having same issue. Runs rough dies when put in gear. Throwing p0301& p0303 cyl 1&3 misfire codes. Switched cps last night. Swapping ocv tonight. Did carb cleaner spraydown for vacuum leaks and all seemed ok. Tgv looks ok. If ocv doesnt fix it gonna swap coils but with two cyls its probably not coils. Wish me luck and good luck to you. Edit: swapped ocv and no luck. Next is checking spark related items. Then fuel if that doesnt work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrnix321 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Let me start out by saying even though I still don't have my P0021 code figured out yet, this thread is another reason why I love this forum. Super helpful information with a simple search. I've been working on this thing for a few days now following suggestions found in this thread and still haven't been able to find the problem. Any suggestions you fellas might have will be much appreciated. I'll start with what I know.... -P0021 - Bank 2 (driver side) -New short block, it's been in about a week. -Idle's fine, no stalling problems, drives fine (granted it is a base map for engine break in) -Replaced both OCV's with new ones from the dealership. -Using the AP I can see AVCS In. Right (passenger side) move in rhythm with accel and decel with a range of 0-30. -AVCS In. Left (driver side) holds a value of 0 and will occasionally read 1 for a brief second on decel. -Swapped sides on new OCV's to see if issue would follow. Issue stayed on Left (driver) side. Same readings on AP as before. -Banjo bolt filter on passenger side was removed years ago, removed driver side banjo bolt filter from bolt on top of the driver side OCV tonight and it was not clogged. -Compared voltage in OCV clips, Right side vs Left side, both recorded the same from what I could tell. Still scratching my head trying to think through the process of what could cause this or where I should look next to help narrow it down. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipapotimus Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Just ordered 2 of the OCV's from Fred Beans. Hope that they fix my stalling and bouncy idol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipapotimus Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Just ordered 2 of the OCV's from Fred Beans. Hope that they fix my stalling and bouncy idol. should i reset the ecu after i install the 2 ocv's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Inspect the banjo filters before installing the new OCV's just for piece of mind. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett12018 Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 after doing this my check engine light came on and my cruse control is blinking.... and one know what could be wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 How dirty was the banjo filter ? What's the code # ? CC alway's blinks when CEL is on. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipapotimus Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 So changing the OCV's worked like a dream for the first 2 days in my GT. Now the car is back at it again. Has a small idle hiccup when just sitting and it is still stalling intermittently. Now my wife is pissed cause i spent $200 and didn't fix the problem. And damn that bracket on the passengers side IS beefy! Also I have not checked the banjo filter I was planning on doing that when I'm due for the oil change. I think I will take the car by advance also and have them check the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Let me start out by saying even though I still don't have my P0021 code figured out yet, this thread is another reason why I love this forum. Super helpful information with a simple search. I've been working on this thing for a few days now following suggestions found in this thread and still haven't been able to find the problem. Any suggestions you fellas might have will be much appreciated. I'll start with what I know.... -P0021 - Bank 2 (driver side) -New short block, it's been in about a week. -Idle's fine, no stalling problems, drives fine (granted it is a base map for engine break in) -Replaced both OCV's with new ones from the dealership. -Using the AP I can see AVCS In. Right (passenger side) move in rhythm with accel and decel with a range of 0-30. -AVCS In. Left (driver side) holds a value of 0 and will occasionally read 1 for a brief second on decel. -Swapped sides on new OCV's to see if issue would follow. Issue stayed on Left (driver) side. Same readings on AP as before. -Banjo bolt filter on passenger side was removed years ago, removed driver side banjo bolt filter from bolt on top of the driver side OCV tonight and it was not clogged. -Compared voltage in OCV clips, Right side vs Left side, both recorded the same from what I could tell. Still scratching my head trying to think through the process of what could cause this or where I should look next to help narrow it down. Any suggestions? Sounds similar to when I had the problem after my motor rebuild... ended up being a small piece of piston shrapnel in the AVCS mechanism INSIDE the cam gear that kept the phasing mechanism locked in the 0deg position. More info here. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrnix321 Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Thank you sir. Shortly after I posted that I swapped out the intake cam gear and it seemed to fix the problem. It's still not up and running due to what I believe are unrelated issues. Once I get it up and going I'll be sure to post my results. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 You are the only other person I have heard of this happening to... weird. I look forward to hearing if it is actually resolved. Good luck with the other issues! It sounds like you will get it all sorted out. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipapotimus Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 So changing the OCV's worked like a dream for the first 2 days in my GT. Now the car is back at it again. Has a small idle hiccup when just sitting and it is still stalling intermittently. Now my wife is pissed cause i spent $200 and didn't fix the problem. And damn that bracket on the passengers side IS beefy! Also I have not checked the banjo filter I was planning on doing that when I'm due for the oil change. I think I will take the car by advance also and have them check the battery. Not trying to bump and quote my own post but....I just took off the TMIC and checked the T connection to see if it looked good, and it did. So when putting it back together I made sure to tighten everything down extra good and went back and checked them all and seemed fine. So afterwards me and the wife go grocery store and damn if the thing don't idle better and not stall. Sooo question is could a small leak on the TMIC cause these problems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Have you thought about replacing the o-rings between the intake and TGV's ? Have you done a boost leak test ? Have you cleaned the MAF sensor ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipapotimus Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Have you thought about replacing the o-rings between the intake and TGV's ? Have you done a boost leak test ? Have you cleaned the MAF sensor ? Didn't know about the o-rings at the TGV's ...is there a write up i can reference somewhere? have not done a boost leak test yet. Have cleaned the MAF and it seems fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilles Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 I have had this P0021 code but my problem so far is not the actual Ocv . Looks like the previous owner spliced in the cam sensor plug and did a bad job of if. Now I'm trying to track down a pin out to see if this pin position is even correct. Anyone want to take a picture of there 2007 legacy gt bank 2 cam sensor unplugged.? My logs showed up that there is actuation and 0 degrees but low voltage input and nothing moving even though the actuation would compensate for the passenger side about 8-10 degrees above. This log and everything was checked when my car was running. Did and oil change and then I got a "run system change check" fried ecu with no communication. Car is stock. Which leads me to believe that these wires touched grounded out something and bricked my ecu. Ecu is sent out to be reprogrammed and wiring is getting properly soldered and insulated. Here is a picture of what I have to fix. If someone can point me to a pinout or have a picture of their 2007 lgt cam sensor that would be greatly appreciated to make sure I have the right pin positions. http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s117/glenpickrodt/1A6F0696-9676-42F1-B961-EFCA8B78BBC9-272-0000001BCB574DEE.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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