Spec-Ben Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 What should these look like while inspecting them? Can you tell visually if they should be replaced? Would hate to blow almost $200 if they dont need replacing.. I replaced both for peace of mind. Could not tell any sign of failure visually on the old one. The moving part was moving nicely. New sensors fixed the check engine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec-Ben Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I should add, for the sake of my first post. That it didnt fix the hesitation issue... A ECU update did the tricks. Look at the technical service bulletins of your car if you have that kind of issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I should add, for the sake of my first post. That it didnt fix the hesitation issue... A ECU update did the tricks. Look at the technical service bulletins of your car if you have that kind of issue. Interesting. Are they supposed to fix these issues for free? I see the TB hose is listed. 2007 Subaru Legacy Equipment Service Bulletin 380779 NHTSA: Action Number: 10056877 Service Bulletin Number: 380779 Report Date: Oct 10, 2014Component: Equipment Summary: Subaru: information regarding replacement revision of air intake duct for turbocharger where insulator portion of duct separates from duct and leaks boost pressure, loss of power and increased sound levels occurs. Model 2005-12 legacy, ou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec-Ben Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 It is not a recall so I had to pay for the flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 So I just got the P0021 code the other day on my way home from work. Got home and removed the turbo banjo bolt filter, was planning to that night anyways, but couldn't get to the other one. I have all the stuff to do my timing belt, planning on this weekend, since it is due so that may be the culprit? Cleared the code and watched the AVCS on the way back to work in the morning the next day and both seemed to be functioning the same. Left work and halfway home code comes back turning off cruise and whatnot. Still drove fine, no noises, no idle issues, nothing just that both AVCS were at 0 and wouldn't change the whole way back. Same as before. Reset it when I got home and then drove around a couple times, turning the car off each time. No code and AVCS functioned normal again. I've had none of the idle or stumbling issues so I'm not sure what the dealio is. Going to see what happens on the way home from work. Oil is good and the turbo has a very tiny amount of non-axial shaft play that I noticed when I was getting the turbo banjo filter out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acsclio Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Hello what about p0018 and p0016 at the same time say is bank1 correlations if i log the avcs look like is no move at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy612 Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbodad Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I started having getting chronic p0021 codes. I checked the OCV and a resistance test showed it at 8-something ohms, but it seemed to actuate correctly when 12v was applied. I cleaned and reinstalled it (several times). I started reading this thread and was concerned about the banjo bolt filter (haven't gotten to the one behind the cam gear yet) or the cam gear itself (scary). But I ordered a new OCV and did an oil change (it was due) earlier this week. Over 100 miles and a number of drive cycles and no check engine light. The interesting thing is that other than the CEL, the car seemed to run just fine. I cracked the banjo bolt while the engine was idling and oil started coming out, so it looked like it wasn't oil starved (and always had plenty in it when I pulled it). Was it working just fine and threw a code due to the higher resistance? Or did the resistance go even higher when everything was hot and not work well in the engine even though seeming to work fine on the bench? I don't know, but at the moment it seems to be working correctly and no code. 144,000 miles. No modifications other than upgraded sway bars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyt88 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 I took my passenger side ocv off, cleaned it with wd40 but I got the impression that it should rotate or move. Nothing on mine moves by hand. Also any tips for getting the drivers side out on an 08? I can't even get to the boLT with the oil filler neck there. Luckily for now the passenger side has the code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwilliams-05OutbackH6 Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 update: well i took out the driver's side OCV, cleaned it, and threw it back in. let the car idle for about 10 minutes and everything seemed fine so i went out for a drive. didn't really make it 1 block until i started getting the rough idle. stalled 4-5x. threw some misfire codes to boot. just ordered two new OCVs from FredBeans (I thought they were cheap enough to warrant getting both) and they'll arrive here tomorrow. Who is FredBeans, is there a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Go to Heuberger subaru. Cheapest prices on Web. http://www.heubergersubaruparts.com/default.asp https://parts.bestbuysubaru.com They have more than one website so just search for the cheapest price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Sounds similar to when I had the problem after my motor rebuild... ended up being a small piece of piston shrapnel in the AVCS mechanism INSIDE the cam gear that kept the phasing mechanism locked in the 0deg position. More info here. Hmm I wonder if this is going on for me as well.. The first two oil changes I could see a few bits of break in wear but I changed the driver side OCV now I'm trying to narrow down as well.. god I don't want to have to remove the driver side cam. But right now the idle is rough sometimes it will dip to almost nothing it may bounce back or it may die.. it's enough to effect my vac at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Wtf I came off a high rpm run and at the end of the highway ramp I expected a rough idle but it was smooth i did not notice until I looked at my vac gauge it was showing -22inHG so I reved it and went down to -24inhg or so and still was smooth.. so like it was said in this thread it must of been the AVCS all along and whatever was stuck is now free and it’s fine now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeck Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Now Im getting annoyed. Similar situation as every other time, 2+ hours on highway below 20 degrees, short shutoff (gas station) and bam light again. I had already removed the banjo filters, oil is high quality amsoil with filter only 1000 miles on it and full, I just replaced both OCV's about a year ago so 15,000 miles on them tops! I cleared the code, ran without if for few hundred more miles and now popped up again. WTF Bump - Did you end up getting this fixed? I am experiencing the same symptoms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 My idle issues came back but I’m going to have to take the cam off and clean it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheXmanCometh Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 I just wanted to thank everyone for the details in this thread as it gave me the courage to replace my own oil control valve. My CEL came on and I went to my dealer. The only thing I had noticed was coming to a stop that I thought the car might stall (it did not.) They advised me to clean the OCV first/change the oil which ran almost $300. Heading home I didn't make it a mile before the light was back on. After reading here I bought an OCV from a different local dealer ($130) and replaced it on Monday. It only took about 15 minutes here (the old valve needed to be coaxed out.) Two days later I haven't noticed the 'near stall' and my CEL is still off, so fingers crossed on my end. Thanks everyone for all of the details here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.