NatesGr8 Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 timing belt ordered, but hopefully cleaning the ocv's buys me some time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 yeah...so i'm a late bloomer and i own a 08 lgt with about 19k and i have the same problem with the CEL p0021. i can see what you guys are talking about and i want to change it but don't know what OVC means or stands for. a little help please? also is the part # the same for 08 as previous models and was that part # for fred beans? still no answer!!!! what does ovc mean or stand for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 I don't know when "OVC" showed up, but "OCV" is short for "oil flow control valve". It is the term for the solenoid valves that regulate the oil pressure driving the intake cam sprockets to clock themselves relative to the camshaft. In one position the OCVs will pressurize the system to advance the cam timing, another position to retard the timing, and the final position to lock the sprocket in place. The solenoid is contained within the housing in the pic that PhilT posted on the first page. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I don't know when "OVC" showed up, but "OCV" is short for "oil flow control valve". It is the term for the solenoid valves that regulate the oil pressure driving the intake cam sprockets to clock themselves relative to the camshaft. In one position the OCVs will pressurize the system to advance the cam timing, another position to retard the timing, and the final position to lock the sprocket in place. The solenoid is contained within the housing in the pic that PhilT posted on the first page. thanks a million...i was lost here and i happen to be a tech myself...just not a subie tech. audi's have a different name for theirs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NatesGr8 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Problem solved! All you'll need is a can of carb cleander, wd-40, compressed air, and 1 hr of your time. Pull the 2 ocv's out, driver side is easy, passenger side you will need to unbolt the turbo coolant tank, and rotate the valve 90 degrees to get it out. I cleaned the shit out of them with the carb cleaner and compressed air, flushed with WD, hit with compressed air again, then reinstalled. Put about 150 miles on the car so far and no more CEL's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 ok. i'll give it a try. i had cleaned it out with degreaser and crc but no compressed air and it did come back on. so i'll try one more time with the compressed air and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 I've been getting this code since I put in the new short block. At first I thought it was associated with the stuck-open relief valve on my oil pump, but now that is fixed and I can't kick the code. This evening I removed the driver-side OCV and tried moving it around. Everything was sliding quite nicely. However I cleaned it with brake cleaner, let it dry and then dipped it in fresh oil. I reinstalled it and took the car out for a spin, with at off/on cycle in the middle (P0021 needs two consecutive driving cycles with fault). Sure enough it was back after the second start and the left VVT was noticeably dead compared to the right side in my logs (max 2deg vs. ~16). At this point I can only think the solenoid itself is shot, which seems unlikely, or that I have a clog in the AVCS pipe/filter. I have <100 miles on the new engine and that filter was perfectly clean when I installed it. Now I'm trying to see if I can remove the banjo bolt without taking off the timing belt cover. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Stop right there !!! I've had this happen twice, and it is the solenoid that fails. The solenoid core seizes up, although the shuttle valve moves freely enough. Swap out with a new OCV and your problems will go away. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Ahhh, well I already swapped them left-to-right to rule out the OCV, so we will see how it does tomorrow. Thanks for the info though, it definitely eases my mind. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Last night I reset the ECU and took the car for a drive. When I got home I swapped the OCV and started the car to make sure there weren't any leaks. Today I drove to work and got the same code P0021 which would indicate that the problem did not move with the valve. However, my laptop was dead so I wasn't able to datalog the VVT and verify... I will do that at lunch. If it isn't the valve, I guess my only option is to pull the feed pipe and check the banjo bolt filter. It looks like I *might* be able to remove the driver-side timing belt cover and access the screws for the back cover, without pulling any accessories. I really hope that is the case, although I should probably remove the A/C compressor so I can properly drill and tap the OCV bolt hole. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 No dice... logs show left-side VVT barely moving. Gonna have to chase the problem upstream. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Still having trouble with this code. I have swapped the OCVs, the sensors, and checked for oil flow ot the OCV by loosening the top banjo bolt. The next step is to pull the engine again and inspect the driver-side camshaft and sprocket. I am somewhat confused about how the system works though... it seems like immediately after a ECU reset the VVT advance starts at 5* for both sides of the engine and both sides work until they go to 0* and then the driver side never recovers. I am also confused about how the passenger side seems to move sometimes despite the duty cycle staying at 9.41%. Both sides seem to show odd behavior based on what is shown in the logs, but at least the passenger side regularly moves throughout the full range (and doesn't have a DTC).romraiderlog_20100203_080637c.csv The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMontie1 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 OK, so I threw p0011 the other night. At little history on the car, bought it last July and have only put 4k miles on it since (I have a company car I drive Mon-Fri). The car has 76k. The vehicle had the turbo replaced last January by the dealer when it had 62k (prior owner). I removed both OCV's, cleaned them out with carb cleaner and WD40. Put back in and reset the code. I took the car out right after I cleared the code and laid into it, was able to hit 16 psi at stage 1 with no abnormal sounds, etc. Since I dont drive the car that often, I dont know how long it would take to go through 2 drive cycles to give the car a chance to throw the code again. My concern is there are a lot of other posts on the site that list this code associated with blown turbos. So, does anybody really think I have a blown turbo (especially seeing as though it was only replaced 12k miles ago). If so, I need to know how long a drive cycle is and take it for a long ride as I dont want to delay taking it in, if it is blown, maybe the dealer would warranty it seeing as though it's only been 1 year, 12k miles. Any insight would be appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NatesGr8 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Since I dont drive the car that often, I dont know how long it would take to go through 2 drive cycles to give the car a chance to throw the code again. Start the car, drive 15 miles. Stop, turn it off, turn it back on and drive another 15. If you codes gonna come back it will by the second drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMontie1 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Well, drove it 15 miles. Went shopping, drove 15 miles back home. No CEL light returned and idle was noticeable smoother. No random shuddering. Seems like this did the trick. Another point for LegacyGT.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMontie1 Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 guess I was wrong. went driving tonight and i was getting close to home when i started smelling that was almost like burnt rubber. then i heard a whining noise and a loss of power. guess I've got a blown turbo huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I am still getting the code and logging odd behavior from the driver side OCV, but with no rough idle, hesitation, or any other noticeable symptoms. I'm pulling the engine next week to check the passages between the OCV and the cam sprocket. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 i just ordered the ocv online it cost $99.22 shipped to brooklyn, NY. and i needed the more expensive one (by $3) for my 08 lgt limited. i got it on http://www.subaruparts.com website and there are 2 different part #'s so i gave them a call to confirm. those who need to know the right one for 08 and up(not sure for 2010 but you should have to worry about that cuz 2010 just started)...the right part # is 10921AA080 and for 07 and down its 10921AA020. it's also available on http://www.subarupartswharehouse.com for the same price. what i want to know is which side is bank 2? driver's side or passenger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT_King Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 what i want to know is which side is bank 2? driver's side or passenger? bank 1 is passenger (cyl 1 & 3), bank 2 is driver's side (cyl 2 & 4) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 bank 1 is passenger (cyl 1 & 3), bank 2 is driver's side (cyl 2 & 4) Thanks a lot. I just went stage 2 and just wanna make sure that the car is working right b4 I break something. My symptoms are minor...for the most part the car runs fine...but I rather know that if I got a CEL, that its not an oil problem...I should get the part early next week cuz it's coming with fedex so I'll let ya'll know the outcome. Thanks again!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CP424938 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 my check engine light came on with the same code today. I had my timing belt replaced 5k miles ago. (by a douche mechanic who ended up being really shady) I don't really know what my next move should be... is the code due to a faulty installation of the timing belt etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 my check engine light came on with the same code today. I had my timing belt replaced 5k miles ago. (by a douche mechanic who ended up being really shady) I don't really know what my next move should be... is the code due to a faulty installation of the timing belt etc? from my experience...if you have a bad timing belt install...you'll know from the first day you drive. chances are you have a bad solenoid. i just put the new one in and have been through 6 drive cycles and no more check engine light. no pending codes either. the problem is oil sensitive. between oil changes..you have to top up 1 to 2 quarts and absolutely make sure you do oil changes on or before the time...apparently these cars really go through oil especially if you drive hard.(and i'm guilty of that). so i suggest you try cleaning the oil control valve like others did. and if that doesn't work then save up $100 (depending on your shipping address) and prepare to put in a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawl2k6 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 bank 1 is passenger (cyl 1 & 3), bank 2 is driver's side (cyl 2 & 4) thanks alot. did the install and success. hopefully it stays that way...i know in some cases it came back a few months later...but i think if i stay on top of oil changes i'll b ok. if not i probably have to change the relavant oil lines. thanks again though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwhillVT Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Wow, I've said it before and I'll say it again- I love this forum. I got a P0021 CEL yesterday. I got some piece of mind knowng that I did not have a P0011 also. I typed it into search and I read this entire thread. I reset my cel and 3 or 4 driving cycles later I get the same CEL. Gonna pull the OCV and clean it, if the CEL returns I will data log and replace the OCV if that appears to be the root cause. Thanks for the info contribution Underdog and PhilT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 If you haven't found it already, here is the thread where I ultimately determined root cause. It sucked, but I am happy it is resolved and I leanred a bunch about the AVCS system in the process. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-request-avcs-related-problem-131462.html?t=131462 The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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