3D Printing Development Thread

[discojon]

Ok I have a double pod and triple pod scaled correctly now. I still need to add in the mounting tabs. I will model another double pod with the arm for a 1 inch ball also (gps or other device mount). I'll try to keep the files updated and posted to thingiverse. There are several here in the this thread that will print for you. There is also the option of professional printing through Shapeways or the like. I'm also considering cnc machining a small batch from either an exotic wood or plastic / delrin.

[LGTTusch]

Nice design work discojon. I've got access to a buddies FlashForge and at work I run a markforged printer.

[discojon]

From what I recall the pod does fit a flashforge, barely.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[discojon]

I made a few changes (added fillets to smooth out transitions) and added mounting tabs. The tabs have to print seperate and be attached during post processing so the original pod had dovetails there. I'm going to simplify that design and add in a mortise and tenon style joint i believe. The shear force there isn't very high at all.

 

I need to make the changed to the double and double + post pods also.

 

I've uploaded current progress to thingiverse.

 

Thingiverse Link

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2074838

 

Edit...

 

 

Shapeways will print it for $96.90

Edited February 14, 2017 by discojon

[discojon]

Ok I have a version ready for printing. This one uses a pinned mortise and tenon to hold the arms in place. I'll likely add a few drops of CA glue to secure things. I'll try to get this one finalized and printed today or tomorrow.

Edited February 15, 2017 by discojon

[ItalianPasta]

I cant wait to see pictures of the finished product. This looks SWEET

[dvinke1]

Cool! Does your triple cubby pod fit inside the cubby to retain functionality of the door? Or does it protrude out like the older design triple pod did?

 

I think He said that 3 gauges just don't fit inside the cubby for a flush look so he had to make it protrude.

[discojon]

Cool! Does your triple cubby pod fit inside the cubby to retain functionality of the door? Or does it protrude out like the older design triple pod did?

 

I think He said that 3 gauges just don't fit inside the cubby for a flush look so he had to make it protrude.

These are modeled to replace the door. I presume I could make one narrow enough to fit with door on but the cubby would likely have to be irreversibly modified to make it fit. The way it is designed now it is completely reversible

 

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[dvinke1]

These are modeled to replace the door. I presume I could make one narrow enough to fit with door on but the cubby would likely have to be irreversibly modified to make it fit. The way it is designed now it is completely reversible

 

Ok, looking forward to some install pics.

 

The cubby door functionality is not as important to me (though I do currently have doubly cubby gauges and I flip the door closed to hide them if I park somehwere kind sketch, or if I get pulled over).

 

I am more so hoping that they DO NOT protrude with the 'bugeye' look like the pods cypher made a while back (attached). That protruding look is just a little not-clean looking for me.

[dvinke1]

Or has anybody thought about making one of these? The vent on the left of the steering wheel in the LGT pulls right out.

[Flinkly]

i think the issue with 'bugeye' triple gauge pod is that they don't fit in width. have to push them beyond the original cubby walls to get them to fit. let alone keeping the original door. it's a tight space.

 

all of this is why i rid myself of gauges (the 52mm size at least) and just put screens in said spot. can fit 6, but only 4 right now. add too many and this'll start to look like some sort of time machine.

[discojon]

i think the issue with 'bugeye' triple gauge pod is that they don't fit in width. have to push them beyond the original cubby walls to get them to fit. let alone keeping the original door. it's a tight space.

 

all of this is why i rid myself of gauges (the 52mm size at least) and just put screens in said spot. can fit 6, but only 4 right now. add too many and this'll start to look like some sort of time machine.

It is a very tight fit. However, that's what some folks want. That's why I'm making other configurations available. If you have any ideas for a custom config post it and I'll see if it's possible.

 

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[boxkita]

i think the issue with 'bugeye' triple gauge pod is that they don't fit in width. have to push them beyond the original cubby walls to get them to fit. let alone keeping the original door. it's a tight space.

 

all of this is why i rid myself of gauges (the 52mm size at least) and just put screens in said spot. can fit 6, but only 4 right now. add too many and this'll start to look like some sort of time machine.

 

So you don't want the flux capacitor upgrade either?

[discojon]

I just updated the thingiverse page to the latest model set.

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2074838

[Flinkly]

So you don't want the flux capacitor upgrade either?

 

i do wish i could fill the tank with eggshells and banana peels...

 

Maybe in the future. (<- see what i did there?!?)

[utc_pyro]

http://i.imgur.com/IxkkXyo.jpg

 

Something I've been working on the last few weeks. Radium fuel pressure regulator and damper mount that goes in the same spot as the OEM ones. In this case it's bolted up to a Grimspeed MC brace that will be going in at the same time.

 

My ProtoPlasta High Temp Carbon Fiber PLA is not cooperating so I need to find a new high temp material for the final build.

Edited February 23, 2017 by utc_pyro

[oODanKNesSOo]

Soo.... who's printing the cubby gauge cluster at this point?

 

Long thread... but sweet ideas!

[oODanKNesSOo]

Utc_pyro, do you have a build thread? I'm debating on adding a fpr when I go top feed... I've seen people use the sti one... not sure of the benefits of going with the radium one you have there.

 

Definitely dig what you're doing there too!!

[utc_pyro]

Utc_pyro, do you have a build thread? I'm debating on adding a fpr when I go top feed... I've seen people use the sti one... not sure of the benefits of going with the radium one you have there.

 

Definitely dig what you're doing there too!!

 

No, but I probably need one! I keep trying stupid things and overenginer complicated solutions for simple issues. So maybe someone can lean from my (many) mistakes

 

This is a result of finding a LOT of fuel pressure variation in my system, and things falling apart up top:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=243409&d=1484372163

 

In addition to this, AFR during pulls isn’t quite rock solid. There are odd little lean/rich blips and ever sence running a tank of E50 things go lean at the very top of the range. The former is probably injector related and latter clogged fuel/injector filters. But I figured smoothing the fuel pressure out as much as possible would give the system it's best chance to be successful. The radium one uses a replaceable Bosh regulator that's bigger then the STI Denso and should stabilize things a bit more. The radium FPD is significantly bigger than the stock dampers and boost referenced so should also improve stability.

 

This kids is why your tuner told you to dich the side feeds and go EV14 top feeds. It doesn't matter if you have some DW740's sitting in a box you bought four years ago you can just pay $100 to have cleaned. You'll end up chasing your tail on every other possible issue trying to get a clean AFR .

 

Back on 3D printing, does anyone have a material suggestion to handle under hood temperatures? I have access to an Ultimaker 2 and Makerbot Replicatior 2 in a pinch. Ultimaker has this CPE stuff that looks like it might be able to handle it. Colorfab also has some interesting materials including a better Carbon Fiber, but it probably won’t like the Ultimaker's fixed 0.4mm nozzle.

Edited February 24, 2017 by utc_pyro

[boxkita]

Send it out to Shapeways and have it printed in aluminum? Not cheap tho :-)

[oODanKNesSOo]

No, but I probably need one! I keep trying stupid things and overenginer complicated solutions for simple issues. So maybe someone can lean from my (many) mistakes

 

This is a result of finding a LOT of fuel pressure variation in my system, and things falling apart up top:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=243409&d=1484372163

 

In addition to this, AFR during pulls isn’t quite rock solid. There are odd little lean/rich blips and ever sence running a tank of E50 things go lean at the very top of the range. The former is probably injector related and latter clogged fuel/injector filters. But I figured smoothing the fuel pressure out as much as possible would give the system it's best chance to be successful. The radium one uses a replaceable Bosh regulator that's bigger then the STI Denso and should stabilize things a bit more. The radium FPD is significantly bigger than the stock dampers and boost referenced so should also improve stability.

 

This kids is why your tuner told you to dich the side feeds and go EV14 top feeds. It doesn't matter if you have some DW740's sitting in a box you bought four years ago you can just pay $100 to have cleaned. You'll end up chasing your tail on every other possible issue trying to get a clean AFR .

 

Back on 3D printing, does anyone have a material suggestion to handle under hood temperatures? I have access to an Ultimaker 2 and Makerbot Replicatior 2 in a pinch. Ultimaker has this CPE stuff that looks like it might be able to handle it. Colorfab also has some interesting materials including a better Carbon Fiber, but it probably won’t like the Ultimaker's fixed 0.4mm nozzle.

 

What a noob I must be... but what is EV14?? I have Id1000s, and am still sourcing a topfeed conversion kit. Likely going with Radium, because they are sooooo sexy! Still deciding on the benefits of dropping 300$ on some tgv deletes too... but that's a different thread!

 

Good to know about the Radium fpr vs STi... where did you get it? If there is a vendor on here I can support over one of the bigger online companies, I'd rather do that.

 

 

Oh, and make a build thread already why don't chya?!?!

 

I can tell you suffer from some of this ocd that I do as well... I think your build has likely been very well thought out, and no stone left unturned... plus I'd love to bypass the headaches and learn from yours! Lmao

[oODanKNesSOo]

Oh... and is the fpd included with the fpr???

 

 

And will you be making more then one of those brackets?? I think I want to copy your exact setup... my fueling looks a lot like the graph you posted right now smmfh

[utc_pyro]

What a noob I must be... but what is EV14?? I have Id1000s, and am still sourcing a topfeed conversion kit.

 

ID1000's, Bosh based DW top feeds, evolved injectors, ect. It's a Bosh fuel injector that ID, DW, and the like modify and bin for higher flow rates. Really stable injector with a lot of tuner support.

 

Oh, and make a build thread already why don't chya?!?!

 

I can tell you suffer from some of this ocd that I do as well... I think your build has likely been very well thought out, and no stone left unturned... plus I'd love to bypass the headaches and learn from yours! Lmao

 

If I did that I'd have to be accountable to myself for how much money I've dumped into a 11 year old car within the last year

 

Though if I switched to a new FXT or something german when the motor popped last year I would have probably spent just as much or more on mods to that.

 

Oh... and is the fpd included with the fpr???

 

The FPD is a separate peace, I'm trying to recreate the function of the current system with better parts. My FPR is probably dead (it doesn't hold pressure for more than a few hours, blowing air into it goes out somewhere) so it'm going to have to do SOMETHING soon.

 

If you do the radium rails just get the dampers to go in it and maybe skip the finder mounted one. IAG also makes damper compatible rails, they can fit fairly cheap Hyundi pules dampers. Actually if you go Radium rails you can get their rail mounted fuel pressure regulator and remove the finder bracket completely. Might need to do TGV deletes in that case for clearance though.

 

And will you be making more then one of those brackets?? I think I want to copy your exact setup... my fueling looks a lot like the graph you posted right now smmfh

 

It'll be on Thingiverse after some revision. Currently it's just a plate with pokey things sticking out, so it tends to warp when heated. That will get really bad with higher temp rated material. The next rev will be more 3d with additional support. I can send you one if you decide to go down this route though.

Edited February 25, 2017 by utc_pyro

[utc_pyro]

Slightly tweaked it and printed another. This time it didn't warp as bad and is actually serviceable.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=245945&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1488856053http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=245946&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1488856053

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=245947&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1488856076http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=245948&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1488856076

 

Thingiverse Link

 

The warping while annealing lead to reading about the physics of 3D printing. Apparently stress risers at the corners lead to high internal forces once cooled. Thus when the item is heat cycled these stresses can cause it to warp or crack. We didn't cover things to this level back in basic mechanics of materials 1! The geometry of the parts works, so I'm going to redesign it from scratch with the parts in the same place, but smooth curved peaces connecting everything.

 

Going to shoot this one in plastidip and hopefully install it this week. It's in good enough condition to run short term, but i don't trust untreated PLA in moist environments.

Edited March 7, 2017 by utc_pyro
fixing images

[oODanKNesSOo]

I can dig it!!! Nice work man!!