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Anyone have a CAD model of the driver's side window defroster vent? Figured I'd ask before I model one myself.

 

LOL funny you should ask. I bought a pair to do just that. If you end up doing it let me know, I think I mentioned to you I was wanting to do a dual gauge pod and print it...I bought it more to model the pod around the vent, but if you don't end up doing it let me know, I could probably model one.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Well, we just got a 3d printer at my office, broken from the factory but with a new print head that was supplied I got it going yesterday. I did a test print and it turned out great!

 

I'm looking towards making one of the vent gauge pods and wondering if anyone has a file I can try.

The printer is a anycubic3d which I believe takes a file format of gcode. I'm hoping that's right, if anyone has any insight in this printer that would be helpful too!

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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Well, we just got a 3d printer at my office, broken from the factory but with a new print head that was supplied I got it going yesterday. I did a test print and it turned out great!

 

I'm looking towards making one of the vent gauge pods and wondering if anyone has a file I can try.

The printer is a anycubic3d which I believe takes a file format of gcode. I'm hoping that's right, if anyone has any insight in this printer that would be helpful too!

Which model did you get?

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G-code is pretty much the standard for open (non-proprietary) 3D printers. There are some variatiosn from printer to printer, like specific commands for setting bed and extruder temperatures, but if you've got it printing already then you apparently have that stuff sorted out already.

 

In other news, I got tired of screwing with Z-axis calibration and bed leveling on my MendelMax 2 and bought a Prusa i3 MK3S a couple months ago and it's been great. Self-calibrating, built-in bed leveling, they give you temperature and speed profiles that work great with their filament... it's a big step up.

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Which model did you get?

 

Anycubic Mega-S, it's a nice unit does PLA and ABS, I'm having a few issues with making different pieces but I'm sure I'll figure them out soon.

 

Bonus there are a few websites with different pieces for the legacy on there so I might try and make some of those soon

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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That’s a sweet deal, start printing! Looks like a nice printer-just be careful with ABS fumes are nasty (ie bad for you/toxic). Do you have any 3D modeling programs? I was starting to work on a dual vent pod, but haven’t got very far. If you find anything already out there let us know so the wheel doesn’t get re-invented...
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I run the Anycubic Mega at home - solid printer, though every once in a while the firmware will randomly get corrupted and I have to reflash it. Definitely one of the best Prusa clones you can get for under $300. I have mine in a vented room for when I run ABS, but at work I've also built a vented enclosure which helps retain heat too. Otherwise, you can print a full-height skirt off the bed surrounding the part to help channel heat from the bed up around the part when printing, to prevent warping and cracking as ABS is prone to do.
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Oh, and I'll throw this out there - since I didn't notice a reply, I went ahead and started modeling a modular base for a vent pod. I need to take a day or two to tweak it and add the vanes, but will share with you guys when it's set. The idea is that you have a pivot ball with a threaded collar on the mating piece to thread on and allow you to position it - I've printed captive rings with internal threads successfully before, so I think it'll work out here too.

unnamed.png.f0252a238e0afa16b7d083a7c1a1e3ae.png

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G-code is pretty much the standard for open (non-proprietary) 3D printers. There are some variatiosn from printer to printer, like specific commands for setting bed and extruder temperatures, but if you've got it printing already then you apparently have that stuff sorted out already.

 

In other news, I got tired of screwing with Z-axis calibration and bed leveling on my MendelMax 2 and bought a Prusa i3 MK3S a couple months ago and it's been great. Self-calibrating, built-in bed leveling, they give you temperature and speed profiles that work great with their filament... it's a big step up.

 

Prusa mk3 is pretty good I also have cr10s for bigger thing. Cr10s is a very good printer only thing is that it doesn't have leveling sensor.

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OK, I need some help here and I can't seem to find the answer. Other than the test print that came with the 3d printer here which came out perfectly, I'm having this issue. It's like it's not feeding enough material. I stopped the print again so we didn't waste any more pla. It's done it on multiple print jobs with different files and I can't see how I can fix this so far

 

Can someone here point me in the direction to stop this happening??

1664160422_3dprinterissues.thumb.jpg.6740226fa164ce302b4a61adc476cc99.jpg

Edited by MaasaiWarrior
08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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Could be multiple issues really:

 

1. Looks like your first layer height is too high

2. Temperature can cause extrusion issues

3. Can bump up extrusion in your software settings.

 

Sites like https://all3dp.com/2/under-extrusion-3d-printing-all-you-need-to-know/ tend to have good info on this.

 

I cant speak to why your test print had different results unless it has specific g-code tied to it. Also, I would check if your test print was repeatable. (ie if something was jostled out of whack etc in between prints)

 

What software/slicer are you using?

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  • 2 weeks later...
Could be multiple issues really:

 

1. Looks like your first layer height is too high

2. Temperature can cause extrusion issues

3. Can bump up extrusion in your software settings.

 

Sites like https://all3dp.com/2/under-extrusion-3d-printing-all-you-need-to-know/ tend to have good info on this.

 

I cant speak to why your test print had different results unless it has specific g-code tied to it. Also, I would check if your test print was repeatable. (ie if something was jostled out of whack etc in between prints)

 

What software/slicer are you using?

 

The test prints worked perfectly both times I've done it. Even after we moved the printer to it's new location. I've double and triple checked the bed height and that seems all good.

 

I have been using Slic3r so far

 

Thanks for the site link I'll check it out now.

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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OK, I need some help here and I can't seem to find the answer. Other than the test print that came with the 3d printer here which came out perfectly, I'm having this issue. It's like it's not feeding enough material. I stopped the print again so we didn't waste any more pla. It's done it on multiple print jobs with different files and I can't see how I can fix this so far

 

Can someone here point me in the direction to stop this happening??

 

Is the filament diameter correct in the slicer?

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If you can wait until I'm done putting a motor in my wagon, I'll make you one for the cost of shipping and a 6 pack

 

Im in the same boat, waiting for my motor to come back from the machine shop and my builder (probably 2.5 weeks out). Pm me with your PayPal info \m/

 

 

On another note have any of you here tried making a cad of the center A/C trim to replace the awful oem piece that everyone seems to break while taking off?

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  • 1 month later...
i have been searching for days for a 3d file to print a clock/ info relocation bracket to relocate the clock to the ash tray area. anyone have one ? sorry new to forums

 

I know someone on the FB group was selling it, but I haven't seen one published.

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