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KZR750R1 2006 OBXT Head Gasket/Motor Refresh


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  • 2 weeks later...

Work sucked my life out of me last week. Case half's and rings are in the house right now.

Going to pull a couple rings off the old pistons for gaping practice on the grinder.

Should have the short block together by end of the month. Long Block if I'm lucky.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Popped off two rings from one of the old pistons.

Interesting the factory oil scraper (#2) is Napier style like the Total seal kit from Manley.

There was a significant amount of burnt carbon caked on the inside edge. Came off easily enough with a rag, seems the latent oil from the case tear down was doing a good job peeling the old pistons.

These will make good ashtrays. Even though I don't smoke cigarettes any more.

 

Nice article about rings from Hotrod.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-0910-piston-ring-tech/

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Well after spending a good chunk of the day on measuring pistons and bore, I'm ready for the next phase.

Bores are flat even between each other and so are the pistons. Whew.

 

Piston-Bore=Wall clearance"

3.918-3.921=-.003" and the target is met for my intended boost range.

Now with that I will take the 3.921 bore x .005 to get target gap of .020".

16+ Lb boost would call for .006 as the multiplier.

 

Little torn here. It would be nice to have a higher boost target on a stage 2 tune later down the road.

 

If I was to go for 16+ on boost it would call for .004 more gap...

 

But!

 

Probably going to stick with the mild boost number regardless. I don't expect to get crazy on HP tunes.

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It's only a guide. Heat expands the pistons, not boost. Question is not so much how high are you going to run boost, but how long are you going to hold it there. Most street-driven cars spend very little time in boost. I would say if you're doing normal street duty, with shorter periods at high boost, you can aim at the tighter end of the clearance range. If you're going to do track days, go the looser end.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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It's only a guide. Heat expands the pistons, not boost. Question is not so much how high are you going to run boost, but how long are you going to hold it there. Most street-driven cars spend very little time in boost. I would say if you're doing normal street duty, with shorter periods at high boost, you can aim at the tighter end of the clearance range. If you're going to do track days, go the looser end.

 

Does it make a difference if the car is regularly driven uphill at speed? What constitutes "very little" time in/on boost? 30 second sprints? 1minute?

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30 second to one min I'd consider being light duty. Given in a street drive be allowed to reset between pulls and not always on the pipe.

 

His point makes sense in the fact that heat has little time to dissipate on a track application. So when more heat is present we need a little more slop in the tolerance to allow materials to expand and not suffer seizure.

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30 second to one min I'd consider being light duty. Given in a street drive be allowed to reset between pulls and not always on the pipe.

 

His point makes sense in the fact that heat has little time to dissipate on a track application. So when more heat is present we need a little more slop in the tolerance to allow materials to expand and not suffer seizure.

 

Exactly. Pretty difficult to stay at 1bar or more for minutes at a time on the street without a) running into something, b) running off of something, c) losing your license, or d) all of the above. If you live somewhere the above is not true, let me know where, because I'd like to be your neighbor!

 

FWIW, my builder went for the large end of the clearance range because he builds race motors for the most part and that's what he trusts. I'm at about 345whp now, with meth. I do run the car hard on pass roads etc., long (up to 10km) uphill stretches at or near WOT. The piston slap sounds *just* goes away after I've been running it that hard, so if I stop and idle at the top of a pass the motor is nice and quiet. If you're not going past 300whp I'd shoot for the low end of the clearance range and have a little more quiet and possibly longer ring life. YMMV and all that.

Edited by fahr_side
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Man these Chrome rings take some passes to grind down. The Iron scraper rings are ready in no time. On the last ring set now. Looks like I'll have a short block done this week.

 

My daughter can assist on this week off. Keep some of her brain working on this school break.

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30 second to one min I'd consider being light duty. Given in a street drive be allowed to reset between pulls and not always on the pipe.

 

His point makes sense in the fact that heat has little time to dissipate on a track application. So when more heat is present we need a little more slop in the tolerance to allow materials to expand and not suffer seizure.

 

My engine was built pretty loose. Average warm up time was about 3 minutes before it stopped sounding like a diesel. On track days, I could run all day at 4000-6500 without issues. Assuming I didn't lose all my oil.

 

Street driving I found was much more fun when I kept the rpms around 4k. Highway was 3rd gear. On streets it was 2nd gear. I tried to stay out of first gear, as acceleration was stoopid fast. None of this was good for gas mileage which averaged about 20.

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My engine was built pretty loose. Average warm up time was about 3 minutes before it stopped sounding like a diesel. On track days, I could run all day at 4000-6500 without issues. Assuming I didn't lose all my oil.

 

Street driving I found was much more fun when I kept the rpms around 4k. Highway was 3rd gear. On streets it was 2nd gear. I tried to stay out of first gear, as acceleration was stoopid fast. None of this was good for gas mileage which averaged about 20.

Well it looks I'm going in on the tight end of the scale. Well see how loud this pig is once we light the fire. I nudged open the ring gaps .001 to .0015 more than my calculations called for. So I'm at a tight .021 on the oil scraper and a tight .020 on the compression ring. From what I can see it's at a .003 wall clearance setup.

 

Just checking, do you have ARP head studs ?
Yes, I have the standard ARP head kit. What I need to find are the alignment dowels... First things first though. Install Pistons, Rear main seal and covers, chuck it in the motor stand.... Today.
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My CP pistons hate cool weather, this mourning was 35* and they were slapping like a motherfocker. After about 5 - 10 mins of driving they started to quiet down.

 

From what I remember from my machine shop build sheet, my rings were set more on the loose side.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Before I load these rings up I'm going to make one final gap check.

Just like I checked torque again on the connecting rods before dropping the crank in.

 

Check (done), Double check (done) , Triple check (next) , install... Repeat.

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