Mrstacy Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 As long as you don't drop any of the screws down inside the shifter box, it's pretty straightforward. It can be a little fiddly trying to get both the 1-2 stop and the 5-6 stop to stay where you want them long enough to get them tight, but it's not difficult. note to self, use magnetic tools when attempting this. With my luck, i'll drop a screw and ruin the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 note to self, use magnetic tools when attempting this. With my luck, i'll drop a screw and ruin the transmission. I think you'll be fine. What I like about the Perrin shifter mods are that they come with pretty good instructions. Only the short shift adapter was a pain, and that was because of the damned roll pin . If you do end up installing that part also, make sure to have an extra long punch to get the pin out My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Im terrible at wrenching but the shift stop was really easy to install. Honestly for me its harder to remove the center console without breaking the plastic clips than it is to actually install the shift stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 I think you'll be fine. What I like about the Perrin shifter mods are that they come with pretty good instructions. Only the short shift adapter was a pain, and that was because of the damned roll pin . If you do end up installing that part also, make sure to have an extra long punch to get the pin out Agreed. don't even attempt without the correct punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Im terrible at wrenching but the shift stop was really easy to install. Honestly for me its harder to remove the center console without breaking the plastic clips than it is to actually install the shift stop. So, you just use brute force? no tools to get out the center console. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Well I did the Perrin Brass Bearing. Loved that mod. Did the Perrin Short Shifter. Now it is like a different car altogether. A must-do mod. I ordered the Perrin Shift Stop and expect that to be the icing on the cake. Now the question is do I do the Clutch Damper Delete. Is it a mod too far? Who does not have this? Anyone had it and went back? Don't want to be greedy on the mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 Do it. You won't regret it. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 If I had to pick only one driver interface mod to do, the damper delete would be it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 If I had to pick only one driver interface mod to do, the damper delete would be it. Do it. You won't regret it. Ditto to both My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 So, you just use brute force? no tools to get out the center console. Yeah its pretty easy. Just unscrew the shift knob take out that rubber piece in the space under the radio. Grab the underside of the outer rim of the shift boot and pull once you get it popped out the rest should pop out easily just work your way back from the shift boot to the armrest. Just be careful not to yank the wires that plug into the heated seat switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Not even one naysayer on the clutch damper delete?? It is reversible in case I'm the oddball one that doesn't like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Not even one naysayer on the clutch damper delete?? It is reversible in case I'm the oddball one that doesn't like it Its just removing the damper and installing a line union, perfectly reversible. But once you have it done, you'll probably enjoy the predictable engagement point on the clutch that you won't want to spend the time and energy to go back. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Not even one naysayer on the clutch damper delete?? It is reversible in case I'm the oddball one that doesn't like it what don't you like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 I don't dislike. I'm pondering even trying in the first place. clutch feels ok now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 clutch feels ok now You've just convinced yourself that it feels okay, it's not really okay. 1) are you able to do perfectly rev matched heel-toe down shifts? 2) do you feel like a manual transmission noob in parking lots often? 3) are your upshifts jerky when just cruising in traffic? If you answered yes to any of these,.....the clutch damper delete will make your GT feel like you suddenly connected your brain to your car. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Shoot G, that may have been what it took to get me to do that. Just the other day my father in law mentioned that I was driving jerky in the parking lot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 1. I can't do them and don't understand the usefulness...care to explain? 2. This happens especially during spirited driving in traffic, you will especially notice the floaty engagement if you try to launch at all. 3. Still happens sometimes...not sure there is a fix although blipping the throttle helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 You've just convinced yourself that it feels okay, it's not really okay. 1) are you able to do perfectly rev matched heel-toe down shifts? 2) do you feel like a manual transmission noob in parking lots often? 3) are your upshifts jerky when just cruising in traffic? If you answered yes to any of these,.....the clutch damper delete will make your GT feel like you suddenly connected your brain to your car. These plus I hear it helps prolong the life of the clutch make it sound like a winner. i'm all for saving money in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fedaykin Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 The clutch damper is shit, friction point is all over the joint. I can jump into my Skyline and drive so smoothly (heel-toe without issue), jump back into the Subaru and drive like I just saw a third pedal for the first time. I can't wait to get rid of it on my car, just waiting for rear brake pads (then doing it in one hit). I also have this brass bush to throw in. Yes I am lazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 1. I can't do them and don't understand the usefulness...care to explain? Basically only useful in a track situation but fun to use for those long on ramps with a sharp corner befoe the highway. 2. This happens especially during spirited driving in traffic, you will especially notice the floaty engagement if you try to launch at all. 3. Still happens sometimes...not sure there is a fix although blipping the throttle helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Heel/toe downshifting is useful pretty much any time you need to brake before accelerating without stopping, so turn lanes, on ramps, bends on back roads etc. If you do it all the time in situations like that just for fun, it becomes second nature to drop two gears and engine brake hard if you have to slam on the brakes. Also, it makes you look like a badass if one of your MT-driving passengers notices you doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Something about seeing my fkc and fbkc spike when engine braking has convinced me to just use the brakes, lol. Maybe just something I will have to play with when I find a good spot, all my on ramps are long sweeps full of slow phonebooth drivers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Hmm to us uninitiated that is feedback knock? Is it a false reading I wonder. A loose bolt can vibrate and cause correct, love to go Mario Andretti and down shift to 3rd in a turn and then 2nd to accelerate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Maybe someone else can explain it better, but my understanding is it is what the ecu is seeing from the knock sensor and deeming knock and if it goes on long or hard enough the ecu will correct it with timing/fuel adjustments until it stops or is acceptable again. Here you go: http://www.cobbtuning.com/subaru-knock-monitoring-and-dit-knock-logic-changes/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Just got this from Perrin. Dear Valued PERRIN Performance Client, According to our records, you purchased one or more Solid Shifter Bushing Sets (PT# PSPINR016 CLICK HERE for more product info) directly from ASMC, Ltd. dba PERRIN Performance. We want to again thank you for your business! These Solid Shifter Bushings reduce the sloppy feeling during quick gear changes, giving the driver a more precise feel when shifting, especially through the crucial second-to-third shift. The bushings are solid brass with specifically placed O-rings that eliminate slop but allow for natural drivetrain movement. PERRIN Performance has recently learned that the brass in the bushings contains a small amount of lead. PERRIN Performance does not believe the lead in the product poses a risk to anyone. In an abundance of caution, PERRIN Performance is providing you with the following warning authorized by California’s Proposition 65: http://perrinperformance.com/files/images/warning_sign_30x27.jpg WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals, including Lead, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to http://www.P65Warnings.ca.gov If you have any questions about this letter, please feel free to email me directly at: Adam.Taft@PERRIN.com Your business is sincerely appreciated and we look forward to earning it again and again. Kindly let me or my staff know how we can help in anyway. Happy Holidays! Adam Taft President / CEO ASMC, LTD. PERRIN Performance 3111 NE Shute Rd. Hillsboro, OR 97124 503-693-1702 voice 503-693-1782 fax GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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