Moderators BarManBean Posted September 22, 2015 Moderators Share Posted September 22, 2015 Curious on the fitment, got any pics? I'll try to snap a couple later, easier than digging through my phone I think. But there's really nothing to see, pretty sure it's designed that way. I think I trimmed half an inch or so from my snorkel just to make installation possible without removing the boxes "lid", but it would fit fine without that I think. All stock mounting bits are used, box is bolted in according to instructions. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 I see it now based on this pic. Cobb has a lid that goes ontop too right? http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62178&d=1231455695 STP intake looks to have similar design sans lid (which is important imo). http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/parts-accessories-performance/11284d1163961524-spt-air-intake-heat-shield-worth-07-xt-100_1460.jpg 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 22, 2015 Moderators Share Posted September 22, 2015 Yup. And you can see the whole on the front side of the Cobb box where the snorkel feeds into. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Yup, not a bad design, though it being that open up front might lead it to suck up too much engine bay air. I personally never really had issues with warm air intakes on my Nissan's, but I've always ran FMIC's on those and I think that's the reason why they were just fine. With a TMIC not much heat dissipation is happening so intake is pretty important, plus IAT sensor is on the MAF, if it was post intercooler it would be much more accurate. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Yup, not a bad design, though it being that open up front might lead it to suck up too much engine bay air. I personally never really had issues with warm air intakes on my Nissan's, but I've always ran FMIC's on those and I think that's the reason why they were just fine. With a TMIC not much heat dissipation is happening so intake is pretty important, plus IAT sensor is on the MAF, if it was post intercooler it would be much more accurate. Buy a second MAF/IAT unit and mount it in the intercooler-to-throttle body hose. How many wires does the IAT sensor use? Disconnect those wires at the OEM location and extend/connect them to your new 2nd sensor. Bingo! MAF readings from the OEM location with post-intercooler temperatures. Would the extra 3' of wire change the resistance enough to mess up readings from the new IAT? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 I think a better solution is to use an aftermarket IAT sensor, then have it log through romraider. Though you could tap it into stock location with some wire cutting and IAT sensor rescaling. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 I started testing the K&N intake to get data and to show to people that it's dangerous to run it on stock tune and clutch started slipping, at 3-4k rpm, yay! Shopping around for a new clutch, I think I'm gonna stick to Exedy (have had good luck with them on my Nissan's), plus they are the OE manufacturer for a lot of cars. Going to be converting to single mass flywheel, so if you have an oem one lemme know, goal is to run Exedy oem replacement setup or Stage 1. I think Stage 1 is better bet for my power levels (Exedy claims up to 305wtq), but oem replacement might be more then enough... 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 I bought a used 2014 WRX clutch set with SMFW for $160. Clutch had less than 15k on it and it's been working great. Bought it through... http://www.car-part.com/ I'm sure you could pick up a SMFW from one of the vendors on that site for less than $100. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 That's freaking awesome, sadly I'm not finding ANYTHING at all for disc, plate or flywheel 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 That's weird that it doesn't come up with a search for WRX. I put in 2012 Legacy and it came up with several WRX flywheels, some with the pressure plate ranging form $100 - $200. Try that. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Ah I see it, I was searching for WRX and not Impreza, WRX would only be 2015+ 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Going to be converting to single mass flywheel, so if you have an oem one lemme know, goal is to run Exedy oem replacement setup or Stage 1. I think Stage 1 is better bet for my power levels (Exedy claims up to 305wtq), but oem replacement might be more then enough... [ame=http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FJK1001FW-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B002EO2YR2/]Amazon.com: EXEDY FJK1001FW OEM Replacement Clutch Kit: Automotive[/ame] This is the one you want. Comes with the right flywheel, and usually can be had for under $600. Holds extra power no problem, been using it for 30k miles with no slippage. Edited October 7, 2015 by Brock Samson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Thanks, I'm actually not interested in running a light flywheel. Not on a daily, and actually not even on my race car. Chatter, drivability, gas mileage actually tends to go down, and much shorter clutch life (more clutch slipping happens). It's just not worth it, plus I already have a light crank pulley, that couple with LFW is usually cell territory. This is why I'm doing WRX/LGT SMFW, it will reduce weight by probably 5lbs from DMFW, so not too big of a difference. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 PM Underdog, he can get you what you need. He got me my Spec 2+ clutch and OEM SMFW. If I were you, I would not put anything close a stock clutch back in the car. Hey, while you have the tranny out, install Morre Performance Blast Plates. The tranny shift so much better. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Yeah I'm definitely thinking the same, while oem clutch might hold for a while, with goaled 250wtq Exedy Stage 1 should hopefully last longer. Will look up the blast plates! 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK76 Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Are you going to post pictorials and a walk-through on a clutch replacement like you did on lots of other projects in your car? You are by far my "favorite" member here, I follow your advises religiously! And many thanks on those stage 1 tweaks to OEM tune. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I second that! You make some great walk-through lots of pic great right ups. I am strongly considering doing a diy intake like you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 Are you going to post pictorials and a walk-through on a clutch replacement like you did on lots of other projects in your car? You are by far my "favorite" member here, I follow your advises religiously! And many thanks on those stage 1 tweaks to OEM tune. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Thanks! The goal is to do the usual picture dump indeed. I might need to get a new camera first, using cell phone for oily car pics kind of sucks... I second that! You make some great walk-through lots of pic great right ups. I am strongly considering doing a diy intake like you did. Something to consider with the intake, the parts needed to build it come out to be around $100ish with an Amsoil dryfilter. That's without airbox or your time. I would honestly say GS intake is the best best for most folks, unless you have time and dedication to spend. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Thanks, I'm actually not interested in running a light flywheel. Not on a daily, and actually not even on my race car. Chatter, drivability, gas mileage actually tends to go down, and much shorter clutch life (more clutch slipping happens). It's just not worth it, plus I already have a light crank pulley, that couple with LFW is usually cell territory. This is why I'm doing WRX/LGT SMFW, it will reduce weight by probably 5lbs from DMFW, so not too big of a difference. FWIW, I have zero drivability issues on that flywheel. Hell, my wife doesn't have any problem driving it, and we live on a hill in Seattle. The only chatter I've experienced is a tiny, TINY amount during hill starts when the tranny is blazing hot (i.e. extended, aggressive city driving). My fuel economy isn't as good as yours, but I wouldn't blame the flywheel for that, its much more likely to be tune/driving conditions/driving style. The little bit of freeway cruising we do I can still get ~25mpg, and my wife can flirt with 30. I'm roughly stage 2.5ish. Max those blast plates are really cool. Hadn't seen them before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 Hey, while you have the tranny out, install Morre Performance Blast Plates. The tranny shift so much better. Found the original group buy page, these are pretty cool: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2341424 I doubt I can justify spending $400 on a set though, though that GB price was awesome! But stiffening up the case is a good idea, my Nissan transmission had the same issue, case bends, gears sheer. No easy way reinforce the Nissan trans so I went to 6 speed.. FWIW, I have zero drivability issues on that flywheel. Hell, my wife doesn't have any problem driving it, and we live on a hill in Seattle. The only chatter I've experienced is a tiny, TINY amount during hill starts when the tranny is blazing hot (i.e. extended, aggressive city driving). My fuel economy isn't as good as yours, but I wouldn't blame the flywheel for that, its much more likely to be tune/driving conditions/driving style. The little bit of freeway cruising we do I can still get ~25mpg, and my wife can flirt with 30. I'm roughly stage 2.5ish. Max those blast plates are really cool. Hadn't seen them before. It really depends on driving style too. I really didn't like the flywheel on my Boosted Nissan, which also suffered from traction issues too (like all boosted FWD cars do). Flywheel just made it even worse (since you gain a ton more torque at 1-2 gears, but none 3+). Anyway I had to rev the car to 4k rpm just to get the car moving (less momentum in flywheel does that). Because of that city gas mileage stayed about the same/dropped a little (you do gain a little from less rotational mass). Highway gas mileage actually got worse, since your moving at constant RPM, you only waste energy getting to 70, then heavier flywheel store more momentum and will push you through the wind with less engine input then the lighter flywheel with less stored momentum. I'm curious about this and wheel weights too. I just put 17" wheels, that are 15lbs heavier per wheel on my Nissan, City gas mileage seems to have dropped, haven't tested highway yet. Surprisingly virtual dyno read same exact power outputs between 15" and heavier 17" wheels in 2nd gear. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 yeah, i'm with you on the moore plates being too rich for my blood. Maybe more like the $200-250 range. Moore makes some cool stuff though. i've got some envy on their TS DP, but i'm getting off topic. The blast plates, due to cost and "basic" construction, fall into the "maybe make it myself for cheap/free" category. As for wheels, can't beat OEM BBS wheels at 16lb a pop in 17"! * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Something to consider with the intake, the parts needed to build it come out to be around $100ish with an Amsoil dryfilter. That's without airbox or your time. I would honestly say GS intake is the best best for most folks, unless you have time and dedication to spend. When you don't have a garage in Ohio winter get really really boring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 yeah, i'm with you on the moore plates being too rich for my blood. Maybe more like the $200-250 range. Moore makes some cool stuff though. i've got some envy on their TS DP, but i'm getting off topic. The blast plates, due to cost and "basic" construction, fall into the "maybe make it myself for cheap/free" category. As for wheels, can't beat OEM BBS wheels at 16lb a pop in 17"! That's what I'm thinking too. The trick is finding those long ass bolts. I should do the math of welding it myself (especially since I only have trimix $$$ gas). But that does sound like something fun to build, might even weld my rear swaybar reinforcements while Im at it. When you don't have a garage in Ohio winter get really really boring. Even though I don't have as much free time to work on cars right now, it was relaxing to just to sit down and dremel away. Thus I completely understand. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted October 8, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted October 8, 2015 That's what I'm thinking too. The trick is finding those long ass bolts. I should do the math of welding it myself (especially since I only have trimix $$$ gas). The bolt length isn't the only issue. Moore gives you a higher grade bolt, which is why they increase the torque spec on tightening them so much over OEM. That tighter torque is a huge part of why they offer so much improvement. They have a lot of R&D into that product Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) they just use the highest strength steel bolts - 10.9, instead of the normal grade 8 that is found at these places from Subaru. they'll cost a penny thru Mcmaster-Carr or the such though. actually, you can do better than 10.9, 12.9. And can get it in rod form for not too much and just cut each rod down and lockwasher/nut or serated flange nut on each side. It is way cheaper to get grade 10.9 rod though, and i'm sure the case can only take so much compression... Edited October 8, 2015 by Flinkly * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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