Jolbaru_LGT

It's the Whiteline KTA124 Kit everyone is talking about? Also, why are some kits around $350, and others at $585? I see a big difference in price among suppliers.

Sorry, I see it's the Lateral Arm, or camber arm? Whatever it's called, I see there's Whiteline or Godspeed, and a slew of others. Godspeed seems to be cheaper. But does cheaper mean worse? I'd love to pay less, but durability and maybe winter salt strength is definitely a concern.

After a pretty reputable alignment done for new tires at P&L Motorsports in Lisle IL, they came to a few conclusions. That the AVO rear underbody brace on the LR side was messing up the adjustment. They said the eccentric bolt was spinning in place from it being so off. They removed one of the braces and got a new eccentric bolt in, but it still wouldn't get to spec. Camber wise, that is. Everything else was good, but the camber on the LR tire would be off, unless I got some adjustable LCAs? Which isn't a bad idea, because I'd like to get that brace back on, and even it all out. Now, what are the good ones? I see a lot of adjustable LCAs, some kinda cheap and some Kinda expensive. Does it matter? BTW, I think I've got cheap RA Mevotechs on right now. And yes, I Anti-Seized the crap out of the hardware, which was all new when I installed it a couple of years ago. Any recommendations or advice is greatly appreciated.

So... This might be impossible to answer, but again, there's a grinding noise coming from somewhere under my car under acceleration. It sounds like an aluminum can being ground up in the garbage disposal. Could also be a rusty old bearing somewhere as well. Now, I just looked at a diagram of the rear differential and there's quite a lot of bearings there... Yikes! There's a lot of places it could be coming from. I've almost ruled out the driveshaft itself, because it's only a few years old(Driveshaft Store) and when I try and move it, there's no play. But what else should I be looking for/looking at? I guess what I'm also trying to say, is there a painless way to inspect some things to figure out what's next? I can't imagine diving into the differential is easy, that replacing it or rebuilding it could be in order?

I might have gone overboard, but I completely covered the hot side of the TMIC in two layers of the gold stuff, and the backside of the turbo expansion tank and also the hot part of the backside of the engine cover. One top layer for the cooler side of the TMIC, and that's it! One sheet did all that, and I feel it was totally worth it. I didn't do the inside of the stock turbo heat shield, because a blanket and stock heat shield along w/the SPT shield is probably enough. That bracket wasn't budging, so I just bought a new one for 9 bucks. The SPT shield actually bolts on solid now. So that's all good. Yes, that's a brand new stock TMIC(upgraded version) and SS mesh from Pegasus, with the bulletproof mod. I'm fairly happy with it now, and it totally solved the heat buildup that I was getting. With the engine cover on, it just looks stock and clean.

But then I’d need a new Protune, correct? And honestly what are the benefits? More hp? Reliability?…

Since I’ve gotten this car, my middle name has been Overkill but you are correct. I’m happy with this setup I’ve got, but I’m willing to listen… what kind of an intercooler are you talking about?

Great idea! I’m going to order some. How much do I need? 1 foot? 2 feet? Also, it says the tape requires an air gap of 1mm to the heat source. I definitely know there isn’t that much of an air gap between the blanket and stock heat shield. But there is an air gap between the stock shield and SPT shield… thoughts?

So it’s a bracket? And it pops out? Huh. Good thing I asked…

I think so. It’s literally the only other bolt the SPT shield would connect to. Nearest to the passenger side fender.

Nice! I'll grab some of that when I dive into the bolt extraction process, and gold tape everything. Any advice on broken bolt extraction? Or is it just a matter of taking things off and doing it on a bench. I was hoping someone else ran into that same problem, and might have an answer. It looks like a right angle drill attachment might work? But seems like a long shot. Oh well...

So what am I looking at? The Downpipe? Sorry, I don't have any diagrams handy. Also, what foil is that? Sorry, just a little confused here...

Just got the SPT shield and put it on. So far so good. Although, it’s being held on by one bolt. The bolt closest to the TMIC. The only other bolt it could secure to is the bolt closest to the passenger fender. And unfortunately that hole has a cracked off bolt inside it from the P.O. I also have been noticing a rattle which I assume is coming from that side. Now, my question is: How would I extract that broken off bolt? It doesn’t look like there’s any room to get in there. Do I have to drop the downpipe? Take it off, drill it out, etc? I guess I’m not sure if it’s a hard job or not. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Update: Still didn’t find anything wrong, although the sound isn’t as noticeable with the summer tires on. Could be the snows need a balance?