creep_nu

yeah i think the 6mt thing may kill any value, they definitely do not want niche cars that are going to take forever to sell sitting in inventory, but never hurts to check

yep, friend got a quote on his outback with trans issues before subaru stepped up and paid for a new valve body, were gonna give 9100 for a '13 with 110k miles...not too shabby

was just thinking...take it on up to carmax or carvana and see what they're paying...don't have to feel bad about defrauding a customer, and they're paying top dollar these days so may be worth a shot.

dunno what kind of shape he's in for another project, but i believe it was dgoodhue that's rescued a couple of GTs from folks on here with similar issues... if you do sell, don't bring it to a junk yard, you'll get peanuts. if you do sell to a private party then just be honest and upfront with known issues and stress that it is sold as is and in need of repair. you won't get much but it'll be someone elses headache

inspect...if everything cleans up nice and there's no rust then you're fine, but if they're rusty and crusty it can lead to pads getting seized

one's a depo and one's a tyco. they aimed fine, they were actually well aimed out of the box so it was just a minor tweak down but it was fine. and yeah, lay some cardboard down--helps you figure out what fluid is leaking and approximately from where...not a bad idea to clean the underside of the engine and the tray with some brake parts cleaner to get a better idea too.

clunking when shifting in to reverse sounds like a mount issue

lights came from ebay . lip mounts with some self tappers and double stick tape. it doesn't interfere with any of the push pins. not the heaviest duty mounting solution, but i don't think it'll rip off with any normal wear and tear. that doesn't sound...good. you put cardboard down to see if you can pinpoint where it is?

welp...front end friday on a monday? got the new headlights, fog lights and front lip in the other day so decided to go ahead and install everything while i've got the day off and a nice sunny day. i'm floored with the difference. and yes, i know my paint is absolute crap...that's a project for another time...

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2010-legacy-no-smart-link-285546.html?t=285546

check with your local indies. it was around 900 when i had mine done by a former subaru master tech on my 2.5gt, but that did not include water pump

Yeah I looked at the OE ones for a second and then was immediately like **** that. These will be better than my yellowed and partially melted stockers for sure, so I'm not worried about it.

yeah, i took a smidge of inspiration with your car haha, i'm stoked. my whole front end needs paint, which i'll be doing later, so it's going on black right now but may be painted, may not, we'll see. i've got some graphite wheels i've been meaning to get tires for a put on, i think the black will play off them nicely, but...who knows. these are what i went with. install is going to be...beginning of june...ish? oh fair, i guess the only 13+ i see with any regularity is an outback that has chromies, thought all of them did. nope, no extra, just the OE replacement style rather than the cheapo all black ones you can get.

May not be fancy as you all, but I found v-limited front lips are back in stock on eBay after a flipping year so I bought one...anyone else in the market for one I'd snatch one up while you can...dunno how many more they'll make given the "popularity" of this chassis as a tuning platform... https://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Limited-Front-Bumper-Lip-Spoiler-PU-Fit-For-10-11-12-Subaru-Legacy-Sedan-4Dr-/321904698227?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Edit: okay so I went fancy today. Ordered the lip, a new set of special appearance package headlights and a set of yellow fog lights. Front end Friday on a Thursday apparently...can't wait to get all this stuff in in the coming weeks and get it installed...

i know you don't want to throw the parts cannon at it, but you can pick up a used throttle body for $50 or so... p/n 16112AA310 https://www.ebay.com/itm/322408598646?hash=item4b110ccc76:g:qw0AAOSwX~dWqPAh

this may sound stupid but...you did manually change the radio to aux, right?

fair enough, hope they're able to figure it out...deffo keep us updated

that's an aluminum block for ya. on my old outback i stripped out one of the water pump bolts torqueing it down to the required value(like 8 ftlbs or whatever)...pulled the bolt and the entire threaded section came out. if you want to fix this properly you need to remove the transmission and install a helicoil in the block, then reinstall transmission. if you were able to get it in decently, just leave it for the next poor fellow.

were they able to replicate the issue? if so they should have been datalogging to figure out what was giving it issues. if you had issues with the throttle body before my gut says to look there...maybe something internal is slipping and opening too much/too little on cold starts, and when it warms up it everything expands and doesn't slip. i haven't taken one of these apart to know the inner workings of the TB, but just a thought.

thanks for the update and tip, hopefully it saves people some time and frustration in the future

heyyy nova, maybe i'll pass ya one day heading up to my folk's in herndon...keep an eye out for a red one definitely not many GTs in VA, i've spotted 4 in the almost 5 years i've had mine...

if you're mechanically inclined, and the car isn't too rusty(ohio, GL...) it's really not bad to do yourself if you've got time to do it, it's just a lot of small things to take apart to get to the big stuff. i didn't have the time to do it myself, so i had someone do mine and it ended up costing around 4500. i needed a couple new lifter buckets and shims, replaced the clutch while they were in there, resealed oil pan, replaced a few hoses, bunch of seals and a bunch more little stuff. it can really add up, but if you're just getting someone to slap a new set of gaskets in and deal with the other stuff later you can probably save a fair bit of money

if it were me i'd go ahead and just replace the control arms while you're in there. you can go OEM, or you can get mevotech supremes which have uprated but not overly stiff bushings...both options come with new ball joints IIRC. if you're doing the control arms you might as well do the sway bar links since you're already half way to changing them when removing the control arm. inspect the tie rods and replace if necessary since you're going to need an alignment anyways.

yup, i'd only get those for a flip car or something you don't plan to keep for many miles

there's no dollar amount because the same cheap crap bulbs from the same factories are branded and sold by different companies for widely different amounts. if you're getting LED bulbs that you want to *last*, pony up and get vleds, or if you want top of the line spend the $200 for some morimotos. i am absolutely one that's always looking for a bargain, but when it comes to high failure items and anything that goes between me and the ground(shoes, tires, mattress), pony up and spend the money.